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Post up pictures of your finished boat garage!I built my 24ft boat a new detached garage when I built my new home recently. I fully insulated and installed a wall unit so I could heat/cool the space. Its done a great job, only thing I did not realize when I bought it was that the lowest heat setting is 61 degrees and there are times when it would be nice to set it too 50 degrees. But its been very efficient since I was careful to insulate well and use a LOT of spray foam and I cannot complain. Moved in Sept 2018....and FINALLY just got the garage set up like I had been planning, just need to properly organize all my tools and boat stuff now. When I designed the garage, I wanted to be able to maximize the space since the boat is roughly 27ft long on the trailer with the tongue folded and swim platform on (I use it to get into boat) and about 9.5ft wide from fender to fender on width. The garage is 32ft long X 16ft wide with 12x12 garage door (ceiling of garage is 13' tall). Since it has 2x6 walls, inside comes to basically 31ft long X 15ft wide.I wanted to be able to bring the boat home from a day on the lake, and from inside the boat, remove everything if I wanted to without having to climb in/out of the boat. Same for loading up, so I can choose what surf boards, kids toys, etc.....that we want on the lake that day without getting out. I usually remove the seats to make sure the boat dries out and I never get any mildew or wet smell....so I built 3 wood racks on the side for the seat, and 2) 4x8 metal racks that hang down from the ceiling 42". This allows me to reach all the main things for the boat by either standing on the gunnels (I installed decking on gunnels for grip), or standing on the rear walk-thru transom. Then I also added as many metal shelving units at rear that I could (have 3 installed so far) those are for tools, boat supplies, oil change equip and all the other fun stuff....and am putting a "Gladiator" wall system up to hang things like rakes, shovels and other misc. On left wall, I still have 8 of those to install which will finish filling up that wall.I got this all done while boat was at the shop over the last 2 weeks...brought her home last night and backed her in for the first time and am pretty happy with how things turned out, everything fits perfectly, tho just barely in some areas. I planned to epoxy the garage floor in the Spring and think that I will put down something (maybe a colored line in the paint), so when I back in, I know to keep my tire on the line since I only have roughly 6" on each side of wiggle room to keep boat where I want it so I still have access to walk down either side of the boat since there will still be some things on the floor. I need to install some kind of "tire stop" as well so I can keep the depth correct.

We put together a series of videos on how to best optimize the surf wave on your Centurion boat. The videos are broken down into Wakesurfing 101, 201 and 301. Here are some details on each video: Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 101 – This video is for when you are first getting started and goes through the basics of how to create a great surf wave that anyone will be able to jump on and enjoy. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 201 – Once you have the basics down this video will help you take it to the next level. In the 201 video we show you how you can use all of the features on your Centurion boat to customize the surf wave based on the rider size, rider skill level, board they are riding on and more. If you are ready to take your wave from great to amazing this video will help you do that. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 301 – In this video we go the extra step to show you how the professional riders and drivers set their boats up. This gets to a level of customization and intensity that is more than a lot of people want to get into but if you want to see how we set things up for pro riders, check this one out! We hope these videos will be helpful and that you can use them to get the most out of your boat. Happy Surfing!

What’s up everyone, so it’s been quite a while since I first got my boat and started this old thread but I thought I would just give a little update. Ended up getting the Aviator tower and went a little crazy with the stereo among many many other projects on it haha. I will say that I am very appreciative of this site as there has been a ton of content that I researched and read through that really helped me out along the way!

Brought the Fi home today. We did purchase it from Pat and his crew at Northwest Boat Sports in Oregon City. Very attentive hard working team. They are all ready to step up to help their customers. Ian took us for a demo to show how to set it up for wakesurfing awesomeness. Brian was great helping with the details. It has been a pleasure to do business with them. Looks like we might have light wind tomorrow so hopefully will get on the water. Picked up a new Soulcraft with the boat so ready to step up our game. All the best, Hein & Kim

We are bringing our Fi25 home on Tuesday. I'll be happy to answer questions as we get to know it. All the best, Hein

Been wanting to build some wall racks for my surf boards for about a year, and now that I have a dedicated boat garage I finally got around to making them. Designed it to hold 5 boards. I put together the surf board supports 2 separate nights (top 3 the first night and bottom 2 the second night). It evolved a bit the 2nd night and I am going to revise the top ones to match the bottom sets since it looks a lot cleaner and the racks did not need to be so long. First few I did at 30" long, mostly cause I bough 60" pieces of 1" PVC and just cut them in half, I did the others @ 24" and also did end differently and they turned out a lot better. Pretty simple design, used 2x4 as the base and drilled 3/4" holes into it and used a 45 degree PVC angle fitting on the 1" PVC pipe and then glued/screwed them into 2x4 to hold them in place securely. PVC is then covered in foam pipe insulation and I also put some strips of adhesive foam insulation over the face of the 2x4's to protect the boards since they rest against it due to how I did the angle. I have 13ft ceiling in the boat garage, and placed the wall rack high enough so after I back the boat into garage after surfing, I can just put the boards back into the racks from inside of the boat without having to climb in/out with them. Anyway, figured I would share the pics, I know I like looking at pics when others post DIY stuff, I have gotten a lot of ideas from seeing stuff like that. Just broke out the wet suits, supposed to be in the 20's next week, usually we ride till Thanksgiving just been raining a lot lately in this area making it kindof dreary.

We brought home our 2019 Fi25 last week and had our first session the day after. I consider myself lucky to score a session on a new toy the day after I get it. It doesn't always work out that way. One result of that quickness to rally kept me from having the opportunity to mount the rear view mirror which came with the boat. That proved to be a challenge as we tried adjust the surf settings without really being able to see the wave change. I am not a fan of mirrors clamped on the windshield anyway and wanted to try a rear view camera instead. That is the upgrade that this first post is about. We purchased a rear view camera and display on Amazon a few days before picking up the boat from NWBS in Oregon City. https://amzn.to/2DEgZTg I spent some time figuring out how and where to mount the display above the OEM dash in good view of the driver without blocking the view in front of the boat. Scratched my head a bit, took some patterns, did some CAD work and machined some parts shown below next to the display for the camera. Figured out where to place the camera on the back of the boat. Wire was run along the right side under the seats. Then continued to fit the CNC'd mounts to the dash. Happy these were a perfect fit right off the bat. This step usually requires some iteration of CAD tweaks and CNCing of more parts until the fit is right. A bit of skill and luck this time around. Used some 3M VHB to attach the mounts to the back of the display. This camera is designed with some straps that normally wrap around a rear view mirror. I trimmed those off and removed the pads that rest against the mirror surface. That is were my brackets attach to the back with the VHB. Then I mounted the camera on the dash. I will add some VHB between the mounts and dash to hold it in place. This was just a test fit to verify the position. Here is the view from the driver seat. Back of barn and CNC machine are shown in the image. We will have to see if this is angled right when on the water but think it looks pretty good. Note that the display is actually upside down. The camera is designed to be mounted above a license plate on the underside of the cover that normally is above them. Having the display upside down actually improved the wire routing which I still need to clean up a bit. So this all worked out for the better. This camera also has a built in front view cam which can 'see' through' the windshield but we won't be using that feature. It can record and do a host of other things which may be fun to try. We can actually record our sessions on a thumb drive so that might be cool. It's 1080P so resolution will be pretty good. Will post some videos when we get a chance to test it out. All the best, Hein

It Shipped this morning! Should be here Saturday. Here are a few pics that the salesman send today.

A woofer change will not address this, as the current enclosure is the biggest factor in how the woofer sounds. You would need to change the enclosure volume. If the woofer is whats making all the unwanted noise, then you need to first determine if any external factor was the root case, before installing a new woofer.

2020 Ri257 (w/LSX). Canadian Blue Sparkle and White. Interior is standard white, hex black, hex deep bronze. I'm not swooned by the bombshell racks, so I have a set of PTM Edge wide-mouth clamp racks I'm trying to figure out how to get the right brackets to get mounted. Sorry for the kids tubing pic, its' one of the few I have with the interior. Our adults crew is 95% wakesurf.. and we hope to get the kids into it too. (my kids are only 6 and 8 y/o)

Thanks guys! Glad I could help Josh! Yeah, that’s what I seen/read Mob. I don’t do FB though. When it first started I told my wife “that’s the devil and I will never have an account”. Haha! at this point I’m kinda committed to that take! Haha! We can’t wait to get that ZS out on the water and get back to surfing!

Quick followup.. I went with the Ri257 (with the LSX) -- in all honesty because the Ri is more of a known quantity for me. I've spent 30+ hours on two different Ri257s, and I love the boat. It also became obvious from BoardCo answers that having the same hull means the boats are so similar it comes down to preferences. I was able to finally see an Fi23 in person, and overall I like the calmer RI styling and slightly higher freeboard for big Lake Tahoe, so that's the way I went. We took delivery two days ago.. and we couldn't be happier. Picture below. @BoardCo - Thanks so much for all your help answering questions on here, and posting awesome youtube videos of Centurions on the water! They really made a large purchase decision much easier. Your answer above helped me shed the FOMO of not having the Fi ski-pylon. @Duneit - We bought from https://www.mellomarine.com/ in Folsom, CA. Sally and Brandy have been fantastic to work with. Sally (the owner) negotiated the COVID-modified Tahoe boat inspection restrictions for us to get it in the water asap, and has been great.

New gas new filter drained can could not get can all the way off big black hose in the way of dropping down far enough so I just sucked out the gas in can and put back together fired right up and ran with no codes so thank you for your help

Sad this forum is not as busy as it used to be since so many jumped to the Facebook groups .. the FB groups are not nearly as easy to search, and the threads do not get organized well ...

Finally did mine but went with the Angled Starboard and Port side specific LED's.

I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.

Hi again, all. Thought I'd post a quick update. We took the boat out about a week ago for a test run. Prior to heading out, I poured in two bottles of HEET to help absorb any water or bad gas. At the lake, we had the same problems with acceleration. It idles fine, goes okay at low speed, but dies out when going for higher speeds. We ended up getting it started and were able to drive slowly back and load it on the trailer. A couple nights later, I took off the old water separating fuel filter and poured the contents into a glass jar to see if there was water choking out the fuel system. There was no sign of water, sediment, particles, or anything. So as far as I can tell, there's no water in the fuel. (Glad to know that the filter is working well, tho.) When I went to O'reilly Auto this morning to pick up another Sierra Water Separating Fuel Filter (they can order them and have them in about a day for about $2 more than Amazon), I talked to one of the guys there. His brother used to have a Ski Nautique and Moomba, so he knows the engines and layout a bit. He said that since there's no problem with the actual fuel (from what I could see), the problem has to be in fuel delivery - most likely the fuel pump. He said that if the fuel pump diaphragm is cracked, it could have enough pressure to delivery the fuel at lower speeds. It wouldn't sputter or anything, but appear to be fine at lower speeds. But upon acceleration, when the diaphragm is working harder to deliver fuel to the engine, it won't be able to keep up, and the engine would end up stalling out. He said on trucks with the Chevy 350 small block engine, if there's a problem with the fuel pump (cracked diaphragm or whatever), the excess fuel gets squirted out of the pump as you drive, and it ends up on the ground or somewhere else on the pump housing where it can evaporate. But you can't do that on a lake, so the gas ends up being sent to the crankcase and mixes with the oil. So he said to pull the dipstick, wipe it on a clean paper towel, dip again, wipe again, and then smell. If it smells of gas, then it's probably a bad fuel pump. So I came home, followed the steps and..... It smells a heck of a lot like there's gas mixed in with my oil! I had just changed the oil in our 4Runner (full synthetic, but should have a similar smell to regular used oil), and I smelled both of them separately. The oil from the boat DEFINITELY smells of gas. So the next step is going to be to put on a new fuel pump, new water separating fuel filter, change the oil... and then at some point, I'll get the steering cable (got it from Ron today) and the bilge pump done, too. Thanks for helping out, @Timr71 and @InfinitySurf. I'll keep everyone in the loop as I move forward. I feel like I'm finally on the right path!

I did it! Got a really good deal on the new one and the trade-in. Can't wait to get it in the water. Thanks for the responses!

Newbie to the page! 1994 Ski Centurion LaPoint Tru Trac. PCM 351 Pro-Tec. The Cadillac of ski boats 26 years ago.

Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.

A few things here: The Fi25 and Ri257 ride almost identically in rough water - you will be VERY happy with either one. The Ri257 has a tow point above the swim platform that is ideal for tubes. You can ski from this point but from my experience, the tower is a better spot. As far as this goes, it is one of the common misconceptions I run into when talking to people about skiing. People consider it near blasphemy to talk about water skiing from the tower, but for 90% of people who ski it is actually a better tow point than a pylon. It allows recreational skiers to get up easier and reduces overall drag once they are up. The benefit of having a lower tow point really only matters if you are pulling HARD through the wake and honestly if you are pulling hard enough to justify going to a pylon you aren't going to want to ski behind a Fi25 / Ri257 anyway. To give you some background I am a tournament skier, I own a Carbon Pro boat (along with a Ri257) and spend time in a buoy course regularly. When I ski behind a Fi25 or Ri257 I am barely impacted by skiing from the tower. This point causes me some frustration because for most people skiing from the tower is not just ok, but it is actually BETTER than skiing from a pylon, but when I suggest it I get weird looks like I don't know what I'm doing haha. Jack (one of our guys here) gets the same reactions and he can run into 34 off in a course (which if you aren't familiar is REALLY good). The Ri257 ski wake isn't quite as good as the Fi25, but they are close. Out of the box the Ri257 puts out a slightly better surf wave while the Fi25 has a slightly better ski wake. They have the same running surface and the only reason for the difference is the Ri257 is slightly heavier. That said, most people wouldn't be able to tell a difference between them as far as ski wake goes. As far as stereo control goes, you can have an automatic volume adjustment installed but you can save a lot of cost and actually get better functionality by installing an app on your phone called Volumatic. It is AWESOME and a lot better than the volume controls that are set to RPM in my opinion, plus it only sets you back about $10. The Supra SE550 has some great features and is a really nice boat. There are some nice features on Supra but for me there are at least 2 BIG things you will miss out on vs. a Centurion. The most important factor that can't be overcome with modifications is the rough water ride. If you are using the boat on Tahoe the water can get ugly fast and having a boat that won't beat you up or scare you going through 5-foot waves is a must in my book. The next one is the surf wave on the Centurion is a lot better out of the box. You can get the Supra to throw out a great wave, but if you do much research you will find that pretty much everyone is running 1,000 lbs. of lead to get it to surf on the level of a stock Fi25/Ri257. If you cruise around a lot that is a problem since you can't get rid of it. The other downside that is just speculation from me is that the ski wake on the Supra wouldn't be as good. Supra boats have a very stiff wakeboard wake and from my experience, that translates to a stiff ski wake. I haven't skied behind one, but I have heard the ski wake is actually worse than a Centurion just because of the wake shape. The best thing to do if you are looking at one is taking them both for a drive, the difference will become clear very quickly. Lastly, the H6 engine will work fine for you but you probably wouldn't be disappointed with the 550 (for 2020 it will be the new LSX engine). If you cruise around a bit the added power and reduced RPM on at cruising speed is really nice. As far as reliability goes, its a bit early to tell on the LSX but thus far they have had no problems at all and should be more reliable than the XR7 (550 Supercharger) was. The main benefit is similar power but the engine is naturally aspirated so longevity and reliability should be better. It's a new engine for the boat world but it has been bulletproof in cars for a while so we anticipate really good things. If there is anything we can do to help you out on the boat decision process at all let me know. Thanks!

Took delivery of our ZS232 a couple weeks ago.

Wakedirt, in my experience, shapers don’t work well on a 226....the wave is really good listed....that being said, I went down the path of a GSA system. It’s pricy, but it’s worth the money......it does require at least 4K in ballast to throw a big wave.

Although I didn’t build it, I get to keep my boat in it and can work on it during the winter in Vegas.

Originally we added on to the garage to be able to keep the boat at home, only down fall was had to put tower down to put it in the garage but, could stand it back up once in. This last year we finished up the new boat garage with a board walk. This is where she will live unless a hurricane is coming.

That’s awesome, glad I could help. Love to see these forums helping fellow boaters.

From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

Hey Cliff, There is no wood in a 2005 Enzo. It is full fiberglass construction.

My 08 Avy listed. Just my wife in the boat.

just put 2 tanks of fuel through a 'new to us' 20 Ri257. I can't believe how fuel-efficient it is. Coming from using a 20LSV- that thing was chugging fuel.

I installed a new swim ladder for my boat, even with ballast its hard for my mom and some others to get up at times and I wanted them to feel comfortable since I had not heard any negative feedback regarding the swim ladder effecting the surf wave (and I can now confirm that it does not effect my surf wave the way I did it). Since only the new boats come with metal glassed in under the platforms and I have been too busy to go thru all that extra work, I decided to try something new as I did not want to use carriage bolts, I didnt want to drill thru my platform and then also have to replace the SeaDeck. That process didnt seem very strong to me, I imagine that will also let water into the center of the swim platform and for a guy as OCD as I am, I just couldnt bring myself too it. My thinking is if the process I used below fails.... then I will take the time to glass in stainless metal strips and will just cover the holes I made doing it this way. So, I ended up using 5/16" brass nutserts, 4 on each side and bolted up the frame using 5/16" stainless hex head bolts. 3/4" long would work but I did 1" long thinking that since the center of the swim platform is filled with the fiber I would drill the size hole needed for the nutsert and then "mushroom" the bottom of the cavity so I could add epoxy and strengthen it (I used a smaller drill bit and a hand pick to mushroom the bottom). It was time consuming but I after I prepped it all and had the nutserts ready to install.... I filled the hole with epoxy (I used a 2-part) and then inserted the nutsert using a makeshift bold. Immediately after the nutsert was in, I covered the bolt threads with wax so I could remove the bolts later (I used a commode wax ring for this) and then ran the bolt down all the way, it went thru the nutsert and into the epoxy bed I had created below it so the epoxy would cure around the bolt threads. I let it cure for 24hrs before removing the bolts so I could finish the install. I used 3M 4200 to seal everything and bolted down the swim ladder frame securely and then let that cure for another 24hrs. My thinking was that doing it this way, the swim ladder would be held not only by the nutsert which was also partially imbedded into the epoxy, but the bolts also continue threading into the epoxy and since the cavity was mushroomed, it would spreading out the weight more efficiently, this is also partially why I bought a swim ladder that had 8 bolt holes, but I also wanted one that had a spring loaded latch so the ladder would stay in place without velcro/rope holding it. I honestly don't know if my theory was correct on imbedding the bolts into the epoxy, but this swim ladder does not budge at all, I have probably been out 4 times since the install without any issues! Just before I started my install, I found another guy on the Malibu forum who was also installing his swim ladder the same way! Funny that we both had similar ideas.... I dont think he did the epoxy quite like I did, but he said his also turned out very strong. This is the ladder I bought ,NovelBee 3 Step Undermount Sliding Boat Ladder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZL4MWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 5/16" nutserts Holes with mushroomed cavity Bolt threads waxed and threaded thru nutsert and into epoxy to cure 3M 4200 to seal frame before bolting it up Installed

Well I finally had enough people in the boat to do some surfing this weekend. The wave was great, and the surf RPM was 2900-3000 RPMs from 11.3 to 11.6 MPH with minimal current. There is more lift in the rear of the boat now, so I am going to move 100 pounds of lead from the front of the boat to the back and see how that works out. Not sure if I will get to test it before My Lake Powell trip at the end of the month or not.

Matt, You have a great boat that will throw a great wave. But you are doing it wrong! Lose the suck gate! It does not need it. That boat likes to lean! 1100# in the surf side locker, 500# under surf side seats, Center ballast full. Minimal bow weight (maybe 125 # and wearing a bikini), stack all your people on the surf side and back seat toward the surf side. Perfect pass at 10.7 to 11.2 (GPS speed). Boom! Big and long wave with tons of push.... much more "playful". But seriously.....lose the suckgate and slump that thing. Suckgates are for hulls that are not shaped for surfing.

That's fantastic. I really like that the ladder in its down position is not completely vertical but at an incline. I will need to do this. When my in-laws clime up the platform, there is a sudden grunt, followed by a thud and sudden expulsion of air released somewhere behind me.

Final install pictures

Thread revival from the DEAD! I finally got my Krypt board rack put up after about 4 years. Bought them on clearance years back and I've always had DIY pvc racks for years. Wanted something a little more streamlined for the new shop (which isn't new now after 4 years ) Anyway here it is!!

if it doesn't have a dripless shaft seal, you should 100% install one first. the best thing to do is to keep water out of the boat, particularly the bilge where it can splash on everything.

If you want push button start that's one thing but to buy it just to be able to keep the stereo on when turning off the boat is the wrong reason and spending money where you don't need to. When I purchased my boat same thing happened every time I'd turn the ignition off the stereo would shut down. All I did was find the power wire that feed the stereo rocker switch and run it to the power block that is supplied by the batt. That way the rocker switch is powered whether the ignition is turned on or off and you can control the stereo and components with the rocker and not be dependent on ignition power.

Sweet! Thanks for the help. I was a little surprised one can of clear coat got me through both vents. I’ve got a whole nother can since I got the 2 pack. Ventilation is key with that stuff

Last year was my first year of boat ownership. I went looking for the best wave for the dollar boat and wound up with a 2006 SV230 for my starter boat. Last year we ran either a mission delta or a Nauticurl with 1100lb bags in the back lockers and the stock 250lb tanks under the seats. I used tsunami pumps to fill the back bags and then would have to dump one into the other when switching from regular to goofy and back. Very time consuming. End result was a decent regular wave and a not so great goofy wave. We had fun, but I wound up on a mission to make the SV230 as close to a higher dollar boat as possible with minimal investment. I started with buying 500lbs of lead. I then purchased the WakeMakers reversible complete ballast system with two ballast king pumps, one for each rear bag that I all ready was using. I also removed the under seat hard tanks and replaced with what WakeMakers recommended, which I seem to recall were 400lb bags and used the stock sprinkler system with those bags. The system fills fast and is awesome. Total game changer. I wish I had timed it last week in Powell but did not. I now had all bags that could be filled and emptied with the flip of a switch, or four switches as the case may be. Next were the Infinity Wave tabs. Shaka suggested I install a double wing plate rather than the often discussed A-plate in conjunction with the tabs so he had one manufactured for me. This replaced my fixed plate. It fit perfectly. I had to have the swim deck raised which required some routering of the deck for the curve, which may be due to some warping of the deck. It was shimmed up about an inch and looks perfect. Tabs were installed and wired to the switches. System looks great and functions even better. Shaka was able to give me some good guidance on the weight distribution but at the end of the day it took a lot of trial and error. First trip out we wound up with a very good and surfable regular wave. After more experimentation we wound up with a great regular wave that was highly adjustable. Goofy wave was more elusive and I again consulted with Shaka for some advice. He said once you get it dialed in you may have a better goofy wave than regular. He was right. Earlier in the week we spend 4 days at Powell and I had ridiculously good waves on BOTH sides. We could surf forever. Here is the weight configuration that worked best: 200lbs lead to the outside of each rear locker (400lbs total). 1100lb bag filled 100% on surf side in rear locker. 1100lb bag at 70% on non-surf side in rear locker Under seat bag filled on surf side and empty on non-surf side. Surf tab deployed on non-surf side and up on surf side. Center double wing tab down slightly, adjust up for steeper and down for longer wave, adjust to taste. Speeds at 10.5 to 11 We had a crew of 4 to 6 with no one weighing over 155lbs. Wave was UNBELIEVABLE on both sides. After two days I could take a look at the wave and make minor adjustments with the tabs to get the wave exactly where I wanted it. Surfer would give me a shorter or steeper and click, I would adjust to exactly what they wanted. To switch sides I only had to drain 30% from one side while simultaneously filling the additional 30% on the other side. Took no time at all. The one weak point was the original pump for the under seat bags. I will be upgrading that this winter. I will try to post some pictures as I get them but they just will not do justice to how great the waves are on both sides and how easy the system is once you figure it out. InfinityWave tabs get two thumbs up and worth every penny spent. I wish I could say that I installed the system myself, but between ridiculously long work days and the lack of work space I had 970 Marine in Grand Junction do the work for me. I had never used them before but my review would not be complete without giving them the highest praise possible for the quality of work done, responsiveness, and attention to detail. If you are on the western slope in Colorado, these guys fantastic.

hey guys just picked this up the day after thanksgiving has 600 hours on the ol girl she is a 1987 trutrac? havnt seen this exact color scheme

Buying a Malibu over a 257??? Come on, let’s not make any bad decisions here.

Here’s a 19! Love it! Would definitely recommend a Centurion!

I just had a flawless week on Lake Powell with my 2014 SV233.

Nice boat Hein! We just joined the Centurion and FI 25 family ourselves!

These are the 3 final after pictures of how the new 19mm Stainless buttons look. 1st 2 pics I had the navigation lights on so the button would all light up (otherwise only the ignition button stays lite when its clicked to the "ON" position to provide power to the boat. This ignition button is the one that I have had trouble with in past with it always working. Starting late 2017, the ignition button would occasionally decide to randomly not work after I had been on lake for a while. I would shut down and then when ready to go, it would not work. Then typically about 15-20mins later, it would start working again for not apparent reason. Annoying since it would leave me stranded. I got it replaced under warranty and it worked good all last year (tho when on water I rarely turned it off), when surfer's where switching out, I would just hit "engine stop" to shut down the boat but leave ignition button active.....then when ready to go, just hit the "engine start" button. What made me decide to replace was the first time I went to start the boat this Spring, the ignition button did not want to work for about 5 mins (panic mode since ready to leave for the lake and all packed up with people waiting, lol). Luckily it ended up working, but was tired of dealing with this issue.

Water resistant connectors for the speakers and the hinge point at the tower. Rough placement of the speakers before I modified the brackets for the speakers to face aft over point to the side some.

The problem with above statement is that only informed/educated buyers think like you/us (the 1%'ers). Most people are sheep and like BoardCo said, if the "perceived discount" is way higher on a Malibu....the majority of people are not smart enough to realize that Centurion is a better boat, nor will they do the research. In their heads, the vast majority of people will think that Malibu MUST be a better boat for no other reason that its priced higher and because of the "big discount", the dealer must think they are special and they would be stupid not to get the "best boat on the market for such a great price", there is already that perception since Malibu sells the most boats due to the corporate spin and marketing gimmicks they started years ago (clearly it worked). Believe me, the banks know exactly what is going on, they are the ones who started most of these games, they HAVE to lend money to stay in business. You are not "convincing" them to do anything, they just want you to fall within the parameters that they set in place and if you do so then its all good. If it didn't work for the banks, they would change it. All they want is for their numbers to look good on their filings to their investors. Believe me, I know exactly what you are saying and where you are coming from and in many ways at the core, agree with how you feel. Just not the way the real world works anymore cause there are not enough honorable/informed people to keep an honorable business, in business. So if Centurion does not "play the game", they could easily go under for that reason alone.

I use sewlong covers I liked the quality and fit of my boat cover they did and customer service is amazing. When I get my new board racks and contacted them they didn’t hesitate to make me covers. He gave me a few different options and I chose to send them a rack for a perfect tight fit. (They didn’t have a template for my racks) As he was working on them I asked for a swim deck cover and he already had the patern for it. Total turn around time from shipping my racks to getting everything back was only a week and a half! Big shout-out to sewlong there awesome!

Since boats come so we’ll equipped now days there’s almost no reason for mods anymore. So I’ll keep sharing what I do to my boat since I’m not gonna spend what factory’s want for these new boats. This summer I replaced the garbage factory board racks with Samson racks and had sewlong make covers for them and a swim platform cover. They turned out amazing! Im waiting on my heater to come in and will have that installed mid November. Also ordered a couple surfinity blankets and seat heater kit for the driver and observer seats. Once everything gets installed I’ll be riding and using my boat all year!