jtryon

just pull out the valves and run one bag off the existing pump, and add another thru-hull and pump for the other bag. never worry about it again

i would check that the throttle cable from the servo isn't loose first. my old supra would have an issue like yours maybe once a season and it was always that the adjustment nut for the servo cable backed off a little.

post #7 in that thread from Bigcatpt goes into great detail with a diagram and everything.

i'd check your IAC valve or at minimum clean the IAC muffler. that's a pretty common issue on these motors that has been documented here. good thread on it here: http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/9368-guys-with-iac-issues-tell-me-what-you-think/

ugh sorry to hear that.

it's the Skylon Tribal, 2 ⅜” diameter tubes if you're adding accessories.

you'll be better off just adding another 1" thru-hull, but it would work. you could run two just fine off a bigger thru-hull like a 1.5" though, and re-use the 1" for the center ballast.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/classified-group-buy-section/gear-for-sale-by-owner/631466-acme-1579-prop i'm not affiliated, but this was the prop that acme recommended to me for heavy ballast on my typhoon but i went with a little more aggressive 1619. i'm so tempted to buy it at the new shipped price of $200 just to have as a backup, but i also got my stock prop re-pitched to 14.25 last season as well so i should save the money. someone here should grab it quick though!

i'd go option 1. yellow will be a tough resale and is a love/hate for ownership. option 1 and remove the SURF decal and tribal decal and you will have a nice-looking, clean boat that looks to be in great shape. the plumbing is already there for sacs, so if the ones that it comes with aren't huge you can always just replace them with enzo sacs and be good to go.

check for scoring on the water pump when you have the impeller changed. if you feel ridges in the intake side of the pump where the impeller spins, have that half of the pump replaced otherwise it may not prime at idle and you will overheat.

any before/after pics? can you detail the method you used, i.e. 800, 1200, 1800 or whatever, followed by which buffing product(s) and equipment?

I'm on the other side and would look for a better deal. First, he's not giving you a "friend deal" at that price--you're almost doing him a favor High hours, so I'd want to know he was meticulous with oil, trans fluid, v-drive fluid and impeller changes. I'm guessing he wasn't if the interior was left to die along the way. The steering could just require a new cable which isn't a huge deal if you're doing it yourself. Gelcoat fading is going to take some man-hours with a buffer, but that's really expensive if you are having someone else do it. If it's also a walk-through in the rear and not a C4 I wouldn't even consider it.

agreed. when doing my typhoon build i had a lot of questions that sat unanswered, so i just had to dig for the info here and on other sites. i at least want to start a thread outlining what i've found out during my build once it's complete in hopes it might help someone else down the road.

i'll PM ya

no issues in my '07 Typhoon with 1300lb bags and individual aerators for draining. when you run the new drain and vent lines just run them up high and to the opposite side of the boat to keep any siphoning from happening.