jtryon

definitely use nettles for your prop repair, they are the best! i'd stick with the 911.

misalignment is pretty likely given that you rebuilt everything recently. did you check the alignment when you put it back together?

from the outside/bottom i'm guessing? how'd you get at it?

it's a good system and has more features than the PP model of the most similar price point. no one will say it's the best out though, just because they will never get the market share that PP has. i wouldn't hesitate to buy one though if i was in the market.

if it doesn't have a dripless shaft seal, you should 100% install one first. the best thing to do is to keep water out of the boat, particularly the bilge where it can splash on everything.

can anyone tell me where the starter relay is on the 2007 5.7L black scorpion? i get mixed responses when searching where some show it as a round relay on the top of the starter itself, and have also seen some responses saying it's on top of the motor.

weird that they would say that, i see replacement parts here: http://perfectpass.com/?q=parts and if you search online, there's a bunch of sites that have them, if PP themselves don't want to provide them. example https://www.mniboats.com/Perfect-Pass-Speed-Control-Complete-Servomotor-on-p/smb1002.htm

i would keep the paddlewheel GPS and just get a replacement servo motor for $189 if your PP screen is fine. when you start the boat, do you see the motor initialize by tightening itself a couple clicks?

looks to be in good shape, not sure if 49k is high or not. for comparison: https://www.onlyinboards.com/2014-Centurion-Avalanche-SS-for-sale-Clarksville-Tennessee-109015.aspx

do an a-plate and that should make the goofy wake much nicer.

i saw one in a FB group for 20k in FL recently. it's on '04 but a C4 so that's a good find. it's in the "wakeboard boats for sale" group, under seller's name Lawrence Tinner, if that helps find it.

you may have to blow out the speedo tube to fix that. the tach should be running off engine signal though, so i'm not sure why that would be inaccurate.

for those that have removed sideswipe, were you able to get the old exhaust ports on either side off? they don't budge when i take the screws out and try to hammer them out with a board between the exhaust port and hammer. i'm guessing they're 4200/5200'd in...do i need to take a heat gun to them first?

how much loss in speed from a tsunami 1200 will i see if i go from the 1" drain outlet down to the stock 3/4" hose for draining the ballast? i'm upgrading the broken yellow stock ballast pumps and it's pretty difficult to get at the original 3/4" thru-hull used for emptying, so i may just run new 1" hose from the tsunami drain port to the very end near the thru-hull drain and convert it from 1" to 3/4" at that point. will that kill my drain speed?

if you're stepping up the speed i'd suggest upgrading everything else along with it so you get the true speed increase out of those pumps. run the proper gauge wire to the pumps to handle the increased power demand, and upgrade the hose and thru-hulls along with it. you can get 1.5" hose here for cheap: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/trident-marine-series-147-extra-heavy-duty-bilge-and-livewell-hose nice find!