jtryon

i would definitely take the boat if you're essentially getting it for free plus your payout--you can probably have someone lined up to buy it for $5-10K within a week. was the motor pickled as soon as it was pulled from the water, i.e. got all the water out, no water in the oil after running it afterwards? if the motor checks out and has good compression still, that's huge. can you take your $47k, keep the boat yourself and drop it off at a shop to redo the important items after shopping around for better prices? you should be able to replace all the important stuff like gauges, perfect pass, etc. with new ones just as a peace of mind and still come out well on top.

13-year-old thread brought back to life, wow! since it's bumped up, there's a great thread on this site called "winterized my black scorpion" with everything a scorpion owner needs to know on proper winterization.

that's either the raw water intake or paddlewheel location i think...strange that either of those would leak when taking it out of the water. i can see a small amount coming out from there if it's the raw water intake, basically anything that didn't circulate though the motor, but that would be over in a few seconds. it would make more sense if it's the paddlewheel and the water that's coming out is from a bad seal between the paddlewheel housing and hull, so that's just the water draining back out from your bilge which had gotten full while the boat was in the water. check under your rear center flip-up seat and you should see the v-drive, and right in front of that towards the bow should be your paddlewheel that looks like a round black housing with a couple wires going into it. see if that feels loose? pour some water on that and see if it drains out from that same spot.

just pull out the valves and run one bag off the existing pump, and add another thru-hull and pump for the other bag. never worry about it again

i would check that the throttle cable from the servo isn't loose first. my old supra would have an issue like yours maybe once a season and it was always that the adjustment nut for the servo cable backed off a little.

post #7 in that thread from Bigcatpt goes into great detail with a diagram and everything.

i'd check your IAC valve or at minimum clean the IAC muffler. that's a pretty common issue on these motors that has been documented here. good thread on it here: http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/9368-guys-with-iac-issues-tell-me-what-you-think/

ugh sorry to hear that.

it's the Skylon Tribal, 2 ⅜” diameter tubes if you're adding accessories.

you'll be better off just adding another 1" thru-hull, but it would work. you could run two just fine off a bigger thru-hull like a 1.5" though, and re-use the 1" for the center ballast.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/classified-group-buy-section/gear-for-sale-by-owner/631466-acme-1579-prop i'm not affiliated, but this was the prop that acme recommended to me for heavy ballast on my typhoon but i went with a little more aggressive 1619. i'm so tempted to buy it at the new shipped price of $200 just to have as a backup, but i also got my stock prop re-pitched to 14.25 last season as well so i should save the money. someone here should grab it quick though!

i'd go option 1. yellow will be a tough resale and is a love/hate for ownership. option 1 and remove the SURF decal and tribal decal and you will have a nice-looking, clean boat that looks to be in great shape. the plumbing is already there for sacs, so if the ones that it comes with aren't huge you can always just replace them with enzo sacs and be good to go.

check for scoring on the water pump when you have the impeller changed. if you feel ridges in the intake side of the pump where the impeller spins, have that half of the pump replaced otherwise it may not prime at idle and you will overheat.

any before/after pics? can you detail the method you used, i.e. 800, 1200, 1800 or whatever, followed by which buffing product(s) and equipment?

I'm on the other side and would look for a better deal. First, he's not giving you a "friend deal" at that price--you're almost doing him a favor High hours, so I'd want to know he was meticulous with oil, trans fluid, v-drive fluid and impeller changes. I'm guessing he wasn't if the interior was left to die along the way. The steering could just require a new cable which isn't a huge deal if you're doing it yourself. Gelcoat fading is going to take some man-hours with a buffer, but that's really expensive if you are having someone else do it. If it's also a walk-through in the rear and not a C4 I wouldn't even consider it.