jtryon

i have a single 12" sub in mine in that same location under the glovebox with an amp bridged at 1200W and it hits hard. i typically can only run it at half volume with an EQ or it will vibrate everything. i'd do that before going through all the work of cutting a hole, personally.

per this post the part number is 18-5273. looks to be cheapest with the Sierra replacement here, unless you want to go OEM. take note of the following in the first link from Troy: " Rotor you have to remove the trigger wheel? The silver ring off the bottom of the rotor (3 screws) otherwise the same as what came off the boat"

was the IAC valve replaced? i might start there, there's a thread on it on this site showing normal symptoms, so if those were what you were experiencing prior to the no-start the IAC valve could be the culprit.

a couple pics for reference:

I just fixed the same issue on mine. I’ve had to give mine gas at startup for two seasons and finally swapped it last month and it’s running perfectly with no gas needed at startup now. Previously I would have to warm it up for 2-3 min on the trailer before launching so that it wouldn't stall when going into gear, now no issues. If it helps, i found it cheapest at Nuwave Marine, SKU 710-8M0181068 and still a genuine Mercury part. Don't try the Amazon/off-brand ones, many have tried and failed. If you're looking elsewhere, the original part numbers are 862998 8M0181068. When you go to replace it, the cover is harder than you think to get off. There's 6 obvious bolts on the top of the engine cover, but then if you look towards the back of the motor where your pulleys are, there's two more nuts underneath the cover. They're in line with the 3 top ones on each side which should help find them, maybe 3-4" in from the back edge of the cover. If the cover doesn't come off easily like mine, take a pry bar or hammer and leverage the metal cooling jacket close to the back of the motor and gently pry up on the cover, it will pop right off. I was standing on either side of the motor pulling with everything i had, tapping on the cover, pulling hard on one side at a time, and nothing would make it budge till i gently pried it up as stated. once you get at the IAC valve, you should see what looks like a screened gasket which you'll want to keep. buy an IAC muffler too, which is basically just little white foam squares that you stuff in the bottom port of the IAC intake, the top port stays clear. clean off the old gasket material where it mounts to the engine, then the sequence is IAC muffler on bottom port, engine side>new gasket>screen>new IAC valve. it should make sense once you're in there good luck!

make sure you cold start it to see that the IAC valve is working properly and you don't need to give it gas at startup. check when the impeller was done last. the impeller housing on these gets a groove worn into it if the impeller isn't changed frequently enough, and that causes priming issues which could make it overheat. the dipstick for the vdrive is impossible to get to, so see if they have any record of vdrive maintenance which is just a drain and refill really. check the color of the trans fluid as well, it should be a nice dark pink. easy to do yourself after purchase but it shows if they took care of it. ask in advance if it has one ballast pump or 3 which might indicate if it's been upgraded. the stock setup in some cases was one pump and a sprinkler valve which filled both rear bags, which isn't ideal. it's a relatively easy upgrade to single pumps but equals work, if that matters to you. hopefully it doesn't have Sideswipe exhaust with dual exhaust outlets out of either side of the hull? you can tell from pictures. you want the exhaust exiting from the rear. again, upgrade-able but that one is a lot more work to do. check that it has Perfect Pass and it's working. also check the multi-function gauges as some of the functions tend to go out.

i believe the 1.46:1 vdrive started in '06 so you might be out of luck on that and have a 1:1. props are undersized every year when we're putting thousands of pounds more ballast in than the factory did back then speaking of ballast, i think the enzo had a better ballast pump setup but i could be wrong--check if each ballast bag has individual pumps for drain and fill or if it's a "sprinkler" style ballast system where one pump fills them all. sprinkler style is less desirable, but upgradable. does it have sideswipe exhaust? by now it's probably not working if it does have it, but it's LOUD even with mufflers. many choose to delete it and do an FAE-style exhaust out the rear. they didn't use the best interior vinyl back then either, so check that closely to see if it's all dried out or if they kept it in good shape, or even better if it's been replaced already. solid boats otherwise, there's just some typical maintenance things that tend to happen on all of them but this forum can solve most of those. for instance, IAC valve replacement, worn water pump housing internals causing priming issues for the cooling system.

just got this from Walters, so i'll look into it. Light should be ON anytime in neutral or IN GEAR below approx 1000 rpm

it worked right before changing the oil, it would be quite a coincidence if the sensor died the next time the boat was started, no? anyone else out there with a sensor light that stays off?

i asked the same when i replaced mine and had no takers. did your valves work for left and right switching of the exhaust? i'd keep those if so, but most have gone bad by now so they're not worth anything.

glad to hear! yes the SS get's LOUD around 15mph, that's why i scrapped it along with the fact that the side-to-side switching didn't work. that link to wakegarage is actually mine, let me know if you have any questions on that project. it's my 3rd season on it and no issues. i just had a local fab shop finish the downpipe (FAE-style) for me for around $350, so all-in i'm well below the FAE conversion cost. that being said, FAE is a good option for a plug-and-play conversion. you're correct in that the side benefit of removing SS is gaining space for ballast, and typhoon's do need more weight than avy's. i upgraded to these bags (link) this season and the surf wave is noticeably better than with the 1280's that i had prior.

i think i found the one you are looking at and that price is about average for the market. a little high given the year, but close enough to what others are asking for similar ones including the 1' shorter and much more common Avalanche. i would just verify that those are the true hours because it's very common for the meter to go out on these. check the perfect pass screen if it has one and that should have the true engine hours stored. i think the procedure is the menu+up arrow at the same time, then system info, then it's in that next menu somewhere.

does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.