jtryon

you may have to blow out the speedo tube to fix that. the tach should be running off engine signal though, so i'm not sure why that would be inaccurate.

for those that have removed sideswipe, were you able to get the old exhaust ports on either side off? they don't budge when i take the screws out and try to hammer them out with a board between the exhaust port and hammer. i'm guessing they're 4200/5200'd in...do i need to take a heat gun to them first?

how much loss in speed from a tsunami 1200 will i see if i go from the 1" drain outlet down to the stock 3/4" hose for draining the ballast? i'm upgrading the broken yellow stock ballast pumps and it's pretty difficult to get at the original 3/4" thru-hull used for emptying, so i may just run new 1" hose from the tsunami drain port to the very end near the thru-hull drain and convert it from 1" to 3/4" at that point. will that kill my drain speed?

if you're stepping up the speed i'd suggest upgrading everything else along with it so you get the true speed increase out of those pumps. run the proper gauge wire to the pumps to handle the increased power demand, and upgrade the hose and thru-hulls along with it. you can get 1.5" hose here for cheap: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/trident-marine-series-147-extra-heavy-duty-bilge-and-livewell-hose nice find!

i didn't realize the stock system was just one pump. if you have to upgrade hose anyway, consider putting a big freaking pump in there like the Rule 17A--this is the one that Ronix uses for their 3700GPH Eight.3 system (throw-over-the-side pump). no one is rebranding it yet as a plumbed-in pump, but if you upgrade/add your thru-hull to a 1.5" and use 1.5" hoses, that pump will fill those bags super fast. i used the Ronix system for a few years on my last boat and it would fill and drain 800lb bags in about 3 minutes. you can find fittings and all that for 1.5" hoses here, since none of the online ballast retailers are really selling anything over 1 1/8" yet: https://store.flow-rite.com/products/marine.html?cat=64 if you want to keep it simple and don't care about blazing speed, you can just build an intake off the stock thru-hull with 3 outlets and add two more tsunami 1200's to it. my typhoon came with an intake like this, so if you need an idea of what to build i can take some pics of it for you. tsunami 1200's only cost around $40; were you looking to use impeller pumps instead? don't forget two more aerator pumps to drain if you're sticking with aerators, unless you're reusing the stock drain pumps. usplastic.com has 1 1/8" hose for $1.49/foot, so get some measurements and buy enough to upgrade the hose at the same time.

interesting you say that because i tried to get mine out for the first time since buying the boat and the t-handle snapped off. i guess the PO only removed the rear one when coming off the water. i'm guessing if yours leaks it's probably a threaded hole that someone replaced with a rubber compression-style plug.

this topic is 5 years old

$2,000 is way too much to spend IMO, unless you're getting a huge speed upgrade along with it. the center ballast is only 250lbs, so you can leave the stock pump for that and upgrade the other two for the rears. or add a second thru-hull and two more 1200 tsunamis to it, with two filling each rear bag. i went a different direction but can't speak to if it's going to work as well as i hope until i get it in the water in the spring--i went with a Rule 1600gph pump for each rear bag because it still uses the same size inlet and hose as the tsunami 1200 that it's replacing. then i will move the tsunami 1200 to the drain port location on each rear bag, replacing that crappy 500gph or whatever stock drain pump. going 1200 to 1600 doesn't sound like a big deal, but the Rule pumps are just so much more efficient in my experience than the tsunami's. here's a pic for comparison:

i found a friend who will make me replacement light covers on a 3D printer, so i'm all set there. does anyone have a use for the stock muffler and sideswipe valves that came on these? i pulled all that off yesterday in preparation to do my own version of FAE.

from everything i've seen, they don't reproduce skins for anything more than a few years old. a competent upholstery shop should be able to make it look close to original though.

i can do that...in the spring it was showing between 12-13 at the dash the two times i had it out this fall, but now just registers nothing at all. that's why i figured there might be an easy wire to check in the off-season.

bump...my volt meter also stopped working so i'm wondering what to check.

here's my research after wanting to have the PN's for these locally and not mercury-specific (read: more expensive): oil filter - NAPA Gold FIL 1060, Purolator L34631. I used the Purolator and can confirm it's the correct one, and also taller so better filtration than the stock mercury fuel filter - Quicksilver 802893Q01. amazon link here: for $12 and arrives next day. some other stuff that you may find helpful: impeller here: for $22 and arrives next day. haven't verified this fits yet but it matches all the part numbers i've cross-referenced. serpentine belt is a Dayco 5060880 which is $19 on amazon. mercury wants like $80 for theirs. i installed this yesterday and can verify it fits perfectly. the other one that i cross-referenced but can't verify fit is the NAPA 25-060878. also get an IAC valve to at least have as a spare. read up on this as it is a very common problem on these motors but easily fixed with a new IAC valve and filter.

i did a little digging after you said that and the boost pump looks to be the one right off the fuel filter on the rear port side. i will get a spare one of these and a spare tank pump. thanks! new question: what to check when the alternator isn't showing any charge at all on the dash? the old one was pretty beat up but was showing a charge when we had it out on the water twice before winterizing, but the seller included a new alt which i just swapped in. the old and new one stopped showing a charge when running off the hose in the driveway. all wires to the alt are clean.

how difficult was the install on your boat with the factory shaft seal? any tips?