jtryon

you'll be better off just adding another 1" thru-hull, but it would work. you could run two just fine off a bigger thru-hull like a 1.5" though, and re-use the 1" for the center ballast.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/classified-group-buy-section/gear-for-sale-by-owner/631466-acme-1579-prop i'm not affiliated, but this was the prop that acme recommended to me for heavy ballast on my typhoon but i went with a little more aggressive 1619. i'm so tempted to buy it at the new shipped price of $200 just to have as a backup, but i also got my stock prop re-pitched to 14.25 last season as well so i should save the money. someone here should grab it quick though!

i'd go option 1. yellow will be a tough resale and is a love/hate for ownership. option 1 and remove the SURF decal and tribal decal and you will have a nice-looking, clean boat that looks to be in great shape. the plumbing is already there for sacs, so if the ones that it comes with aren't huge you can always just replace them with enzo sacs and be good to go.

check for scoring on the water pump when you have the impeller changed. if you feel ridges in the intake side of the pump where the impeller spins, have that half of the pump replaced otherwise it may not prime at idle and you will overheat.

any before/after pics? can you detail the method you used, i.e. 800, 1200, 1800 or whatever, followed by which buffing product(s) and equipment?

I'm on the other side and would look for a better deal. First, he's not giving you a "friend deal" at that price--you're almost doing him a favor High hours, so I'd want to know he was meticulous with oil, trans fluid, v-drive fluid and impeller changes. I'm guessing he wasn't if the interior was left to die along the way. The steering could just require a new cable which isn't a huge deal if you're doing it yourself. Gelcoat fading is going to take some man-hours with a buffer, but that's really expensive if you are having someone else do it. If it's also a walk-through in the rear and not a C4 I wouldn't even consider it.

agreed. when doing my typhoon build i had a lot of questions that sat unanswered, so i just had to dig for the info here and on other sites. i at least want to start a thread outlining what i've found out during my build once it's complete in hopes it might help someone else down the road.

i'll PM ya

no issues in my '07 Typhoon with 1300lb bags and individual aerators for draining. when you run the new drain and vent lines just run them up high and to the opposite side of the boat to keep any siphoning from happening.

so that water only flows the direction that it's intended to. when used between a fill pump and bag it keeps the water from siphoning back out through the pump. they should be installed at a high point in the hose. Wylie is right too--impeller pumps are more expensive than aerators but you could do two impeller pumps and only have to drill one new hole. ideally you will want to use pump timers for impeller pumps though so that you don't burn them up if they run dry, and they draw more current so you'll need to make sure to use the appropriate size wiring when hooking them up.

the minimum "budget" way i would do this is to add a manifold to the existing thru-hull and add two tsunami 1200's to it, filling all 3 bags off that thru-hull. thru-hull hardware is expensive so you will save a lot of cost there, and if you don't care about speed those 1200's should be fine sharing the same 1" thru-hull. that's hoping that it's a 1" thru-hull and not 3/4"? a manifold would just be your cost in plastic plumbing parts from home depot so that's cheap. tsunami 1200's are like $40 so you have $80 there for two new and fast pumps. add in some 1" fittings, one check valve for each line, and 1" hose for the bags, and 3/4" fittings and 3/4" hose for vents and you have the fill part taken care of. i've found hose cheapest here or here. for draining and venting you'll need to put some thought into it if you really don't want to drill new holes. ideally, i would buy two new drain ports and install them on opposite sides of the boat, and drain the rear bags on the side opposite they are installed on (this keeps them from ever siphoning). for this you will buy two more tsunami's that attach to the bottom port of each rear bag, so $80 again there. i wouldn't try to use one pump for this because then you can never control if you're trying to list the boat to surf on one side, etc. i definitely wouldn't drain them into the bilge like you were saying. you can likely get by with venting each rear bag to a wye on the existing center ballast vent or bilge hose. venting is necessary so that the bag doesn't fill with air, and acts as an overflow when filling. add check valves here as well. add two Carling fill and drain DPDT switches and some wire and you should be good to go. you have a $30K+ boat, i wouldn't try to shortcut spending $500ish to do this right, even the "cheap" way. ask santa to make all your presents be the stuff above!

black scorpion 330? are you getting good constant 14.2-14.3 voltage with the motor running? have you checked the fuel pressure? there are two fuel pumps from what i hear, one in the tank and one at the rear port side of the motor (black scorpion anyway) near the raw water pump. i'm assuming you've done the easy stuff first like fuel filter, plugs and wires since you also did the cap and rotor? if not i'd do all that as well as the IAC valve and maybe the CPS.

hey adam, here's a couple of relevant threads...

same here other than, between steps 5 and 6 i get it up to operating temp then pull the spark arrestor off and spray fogging oil into the throttle body until the engine stalls to effectively fog the cylinders.

if you have the Black Scorpion in your Elite V, i followed this procedure last year here in the cold northeast (boat is kept in a non-heated, detatched garage): i skipped the v-drive fluid and trans fluid change in the fall and did the other stuff. add Stabil or Startron to your gas tank before starting this procedure, and fill the tank up. i just pulled the 7 blue drain plugs and didn't put antifreeze in, but have a coathanger on hand to run inside the plug holes that you pull out to drain, to make sure there's nothing keeping them from draining completely.