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  1. Today
  2. https://drive.google.com/file/d/11W_Sm7hi8DyLGBttL_ZyOrF5z45-fQw4/view?usp=sharing It was definitely the shaft leaking, check out the video above. Here is another link I found that goes over the same thing. Looks like I am a candidate for the PSS install. As someone with decent mechanical experience on cars, is this a job that I should be able to do without pulling the vdrive? From @h20king's thread, it looks like I can do it but I am not sure of his boat model. I called a few places this morning to get estimates and am waiting to receive a call back from the mechanics to go into more detail about my issue. A hurricane is about to hit us on the east coast so I guess it is a good time to do it.
  3. If it is your shaft packing that is leaking too much you may find this old thread helpful....if nothing more for a good laugh!
  4. Yesterday
  5. Disregard. I Initially didn’t see the link that you put in a prior post.
  6. I have a new-to-me Avy C4 I got last week and put it in the water for the first time yesterday. I noticed that the bilge bump kept coming on every 20 minutes or so, shooting out the same amount of water each time (20-30 seconds). We parked the boat on the water and sat for about an hour and I turned the pump on again, shot out the same amount of water. Waited about 10 more minutes, then turned it on again and it shot out the same amount yet again. I checked the plug under the back seat every 30 mins or so, and it seemed to have the same amount of water in it constantly and didn't appear to fluctuate. The previous owner said he only had the issue when he had his ballast bags full, something about that type of bag having a coupling leak that needed to be fixed on the bag I believe. I didn't fill the bags up the entire time we were on it though, so I don't think that is the issue. I have seen some post about the shaft packing on other boats possibly being the culprit, but I couldn't find anything on this particular model. Any help or tips you guys could post would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Great Job @InfinitySurf! I’m thinking of doing the same on my ZS232. Without ballast, the platform sits about 4” out of the water and it’s difficult for my mother-in-law among others to get back in the boat. Can you share a link to the ladder you are using?
  8. Check here - https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/oem-parts-and-accessories/ski-centurion-boats
  9. I have not gutted a Roswell/Centurion downfire pod, so just a hunch here. I would fully expect those drivers to have a proprietary basket size, shape and or bolt pattern. So this would limit you to the manufacturer. 5 seasons is not a lot of time, so I would also want to revisit the amp settings, to make sure theres not a reason for a blown speaker that would repeat itself. The woofer is a 10" IIRC. Its in a small sealed enclosure I believe. There are better build woofers, but id want to know what my enclosure volume was first, unless the plan is to scrap the entire setup and start fresh. At that point, move up to a 12. Even consider a ported enclosure. Need to take the available amp wattage into account also. Want to get the most out of the amp, but at a safe impedance. Here again, buzzing is not normal from a woofer, so id want to try and isolate the noise and make sure its not going to be there with the new woofer.
  10. Last week
  11. I have a 2006 Centurion Avalanche C4 and i am missing the transom air vent cover, does anyone know where I can get this cover?
  12. 09 enzo sv230

    @TravisL like others said, #1 you gotta add weight. No replacement for displacement. Don't believe the salesmen who tell you if you buy their system then you don't need weight (like the "surf mode" guy). All it really takes with the SV boats is the right amount of ballast and a little knowledge. Listing will give you an excellent wave, it does make some people nervous to drive the boat like that, my wife was one of them and why I transitioned to a suckgate until I was ready to install surf tabs. If you are gonna use a suckgate, the placement of the suckgate in relation to the height of the water on the hull AT SURF SPEED is very important. If the gate is buried under the water then you will get a washy wave, if its too high you will get a rooster tail of water shooting into the air. The idea is for the gate to be approx 2" out of the water fully weighted and at surf speed. You can also change how long/short the wave is by moving the gate forward/backwards on the transom. When I had one I kept it about 12" from the very rear of the boat to get a longer wave. You should do some experimenting since depending on the type of gate you have and your hull design where you need to mount it, you can slightly angle the gate down...which also help to crab the boat and create the wave divergence that you need. The other important thing with these deep-v, Enzo's is if you use a suckgate is you must still have some list to get the cleanest, nicest waves! You cannot run these boats perfectly level. The Malibu boats do it... but they also have a much flatter running surface which makes a difference (Malibu's will also beat the living crap out of you when the water is rough). For regular side I did a difference of approx 300 pounds for the list on that side (but I also had 4400lbs of ballast plumbed into the boat), for the goofy side you have to list even more, I did approx 500lbs difference for goofy! The reason is that you are also counteracting the prop spin on the goofy side so you have to force the boat over a bit more to get the same effect.... to get a clean goofy wave you will also want a enter "A-plate" since it smooths out the wash on the goofy side. So you gotta have more ballast, but the good news is you have an awesome hull for surfing and if you add the ballast/people and spend a couple hours dialing it so you know what to do, your wave will be kickass on either side
  13. @Wylie_Tunes is the stereo guru. It is easy to swap out speakers if you are semi-handy. Its also possible that the stereo was never properly tuned and/or there is a bit of corrosion on some of the connections. I had some popping in my Wetsounds REV-8 tower speakers and the cause was a little corrosion starting at the amp connections and the system needing to be tuned correctly (which wylie tunes did for me). The little I understand about stereo systems (and its very little), seems that building the sub box correctly is the #1 thing that can make or break how a sub performs. If its the factory sub, I imagine that is a likely issue. I had him add a 3rd battery for me so I would have 1 dedicated cranking battery and 2 accessory batteries. I know there are some high end batteries out there but honestly I prefer to use good Interstate wet cell batteries. The cost is way high and they dont last any longer than wet cell...tho I know there are other benefits such as being able to lay them on their sides, etc. I installed a NOCO 3-bank battery maintainer and it stays plugged in anytime I am not using the boat. If you check the water levels 1-2 times yearly and top off as needed with distilled water and keep a maintainer on them, batteries consistently last me 6-7yrs. In the days when I didnt use a maintainer, I was replacing the batteries by year 3. Well worth the investment to get a good maintainer when you replace the batteries.
  14. That prop will make a significant difference out of the hole. The cup mostly effects the upper speeds. I have 2 identical sized props for my boat (1433 &1847) with only difference being the cup (.150 vs .105). I cannot tell any difference getting out of the hole or at surf speed, only place I have noticed any difference at all is at WOT, top speed is 40mph & 38mph. I typically cruise at 26mph and rarely cruise faster than 30mph since that puts me right at 4000rpms. Occasionally I will take the boat to WOT for about 30 seconds just to let the engine exercise and make sure everything sounds good.
  15. I imagine that a 2018 FI would have the metal supports glassed into the bottom of the swim platform... I know for sure that all the 2019+ Centurions do since they are offered as an option from factory so all the new platforms are made with the supports glassed in. You should be able to tell by looking under it since it will look similar to the areas the brackets are mounted to it. Its either gonna be a square or rectangular shape in the middle of the swim platform to "bulges" down to create a flat surface. Your dealer should be able to confirm. Also if you post a picture of the bottom, I can tell you since I have seen quite a few of the late models swim platforms To answer question, yes mine has held up excellent. It does not get used a lot since 90% of the time when I am taking the boat out we are surfing and I mostly added it to give an easier option for people lacking the strength to just pop up. My mom for instance comes occasionally and likes to swim to its perfect for that. I am about 185lbs and use it to get into the boat from the trailer, I have bounced on it lightly a couple times to test it and zero hint of any give or even any creaking, so I feel like its gonna hold up. Also I installed 4 bolts on each side for a total of 8 fasteners so it also has more anchor points. I have seen some ladders that only have 2 on each side and that would make me nervous the way I did it.
  16. I'm new to this and not sure I'm approaching in the right way, but hoping to get some insight from anyone with knowledge on 2015 Enzo SV233. I'm looking to replace or upgrade some speakers in the downfire audio. Picked the boat up a month ago and pretty sure a few of the speakers are shot. Can I simply pull them out and replace like for like speakers? Would anyone know if the Focal sub I have has better options? Is it 10" or 12" stock? It seems to buzz a lot and not be very tight bass. If anyone has recommendations on best route for upgrading to get better performance out of it versus a complete replace of entire system, appreciate you input. I'm also trying to assess best batteries to get for it. Thanks in advance.
  17. Thank you.. I tried the 16x15 the other night and without ballast i loved it but as you mentioned it didn’t work well with full ballast. I just ordered the 16x13 with the .150 cup. They had another with a .105 cup. Not sure how big of a difference that will make.... I wish they had a 16x14 :-)
  18. Installing a ladder myself on our new 2018 fi23. Is still holding up good ? How big of a person have you had on it? You mentioned newer boats have metal in them?? Would that include mine ? @InfinitySurf
  19. great to hear your beeping is solved! I suspect the cable you installed is the same as the one they are using.... There is a small chance the new cable has internal shielding that the other one doesn't have, but it's unlikely. Probably it's fixed because the new clarion remote cable is not ziptied directly to the audio lines. Thanks for posting your detailed descriptions. I was planning to wrap the existing remote cable, but because you said there are zipties you can't find or reach, I also ordered another 25' remote cable from Crutchfield, and I plan to repeat the same thing you did. All I want is the beeping to stop.
  20. I am editing a message that I just posted saying the newly installed cable fixed everything and life was good. The edit is necessary because as I climbed into the bow to shut the backrest cushions and call it a night, the noise could be heard from my bow speakers, but nothing in the drivers seat. As I sit here in the boat with the audio muted, the noise slowly went away completely. scratching my head now.
  21. I dont know if H2O replied to you yet. Pretty sure the ACME 2907 (16x13) is the surf prop being used for most wakesurfing. The ACME 2829 (16x15) is the one that comes stock as the "recreational" prop. It will give you the fasted top end but not as much power down low which becomes an issue with a lot of people, lot of ballast or high elevations. The ACME 2903 (16x12.5) is for the high elevation. Havent seen too many people talk about this one. One note....I believe that in 2018 they had an FI23 (maybe the one with the 409 engine?) that had a different strut angle and was unable to fit a 16" prop. I may be wrong... but its always good to check the prop you currently have to see how much clearance you have since if you upgrade and end up with less than 3/4"-1" between the tip of the prop and the boat hull, it can mess up the gelcoat pretty bad. Wakemakers has a good "prop finder tool" and their prices are pretty good. Nettle Prop out of Austin, TX used to have the best pricing but its been a couple years since I had to buy a prop. You can also call ACME directly to ask which prop they recommend, they will ask for all your current info and what boat is currently acting like so you will want to look at your prop to see what # it is (stamped on the end of the prop where nut goes on), as well as location/elevation, how much ballast you typically run and what your goals are, ie: do you mostly wakesurf, wakeboard, ski....etc
  22. Swim platform from a 2018 Ri237 for sale. It will fit a wide range of boats with the addition of the transom brackets (TB011)X2 and pins (R-2568)X2 which are not included and would have to be purchased from a centurion dealer for roughly $140. Please private message me if you are interested in replacing or upgrading your current platform with this one.
  23. thanks, @Troy - sounds like we have the same set-up. Have you been able to change out the filter? If so, any tips to make that easier?
  24. The most likely possibilities here are: (a) the beeping was there in the showroom and you didn't notice (b) it's bluetooth related, and you didn't test this in the showroom. you mentioned it only happens after bluetooth connect. I have not checked this on my boat, but I think it might be the same. In this case, it would be the clarion bluetooth transmit somehow leaking into the RCA pre-amp analog lines. It could be because the clarion bluetooth is getting "picked up" by the clarion control line somehow, and then transferring it into the pre-amp analog lines because of the long proximity. (c) There is a bluetooth antenna line coming out of the clarion black-box. Maybe this is accidentally routed close to some of the wire bundle. I think it's very unlikely the interference is happening entirely inside the clarion unit, as then it wouldn't go away when you disconnected the remote cable... unless you accidentally did this test while bluetooth was not connected and didn't notice. EIther way, I'm confident we will get this solved somehow. I really appreciate that you posted and did some sleuthing. Our boat is stored on a Bouy 400' offshore here in Lake Tahoe, so it's not as easy to hop out and investigate this issue right now, and most of the time we're on the boat we're using it to pull surfers!
  25. Surfing and dropping rope

    If you post a video of your surfing on the wave, we can offer you targetted suggestions... While wave tuning is important, I'm 200lbs and I can stay on the little stock Nautique GS23 wave, so if there is a wave back there you can probably stay on it with the right technique (and an efficient board). (The fastest board i've ever ridden is the Hyperlite Automatic... and it's seriously fast compared to most boards.) I've also taught about 14 brand new wakesurfers in the last two years, from never been on a wakesurf board, to dropping the rope. (and my 8 year old daughter is going to drop the rope any day now) The key lessons I give people are... 1) Move your feet back more. Almost everyone starts with their feet too far forward, which makes them not have enough "brakes" to slow, which makes them scared when they get close to the boat, which makes them ride the wave all wrong. Your back foot should be touching the rear bump-stop, and your front foot should be positioned so that you can stand balanced when somewhat on the wave with the rope slack. You get speed from shifting your weight, not from moving your feet (we will cover this in #3 below). If you are constantly "leaning back" and your back leg is getting sore, then your feet are too far forward. Move them back. 2) Move your front-foot towards the toe-edge. Most people ride with their front foot too far towards the heel side, which makes it hard for them to lean into the wave. This is fine when holding the rope, because the rope helps pull you towards the center (even when slack), but when you let go, riders tend to drift out away from the wave. Once the front foot is reasonably centered, or even a little toe-side, it's very easy to turn by turning your shoulders in the direction you want to rotate. If you find yourself "tip-toeing" to turn into the wave, or falling out the side (not over the back), this is a good sign your foot needs to move towards the toe-side. 3) lean forward and back with your hips, not your shoulders. Most new riders that are falling out of the wave dip their shoulders over forward by bending at the hip. This is not the way to lean forward. You want to straighten your back leg and bend your front leg, doing a sort of "lunge" onto the front of the board. It's a bit like a yoga warrior pose. Another way to think about it is "shifting the board behind you", which is a different way to describe the same motion. If you learn to do this correctly, unless the board is oversize, you should be able to nose-dive before you fall out of the back of the wave. Make sure you practice braking and feel comfortable slowing the board before you try this, because once you learn to put on the gas you will quickly get close to the boat and need to put on the brakes. If you are drifting "up and over" the back of the wave, you are not getting your weight forward enough. Move your hips and entire body forward by doing a lunge on your front foot. 4) Ride in the direction of the wave, not the direction of the boat. Most new riders tend to start out riding down the wave-face and away from the centerline of the boat (to the right if your goofy, left if you're regular), and then using the rope to pull back into the wave. This is not where the energy of riding is. Think about an ocean surfer inside the wave-pipe.. they ride directly in the direction of the wave. When wakesurfing, this direction is towards the centerline of the boat, *not* the direction the boat is traveling. Once you ride in the direction of the wave, you will get much more speed, and then you'll need that hip-lean and brakes to control your speed. I hope those tips help. If you can post a video of you surfing, I can probably see what's going and give you a more focused set of suggestsions or "drills" to try and train your body.
  26. Sounds like I will have a 25’ cable for sale. Brand new haha if anybody is interested. The only other comment I have for now is that this noise didn’t exist before I bought the boat. It was used for a few demos so had 6 hours on it when I got it. When we were in the showroom checking out the boat I played around with the stereo quite a bit and never had the noise come up. It wasn’t until we got the boat home a few days later and took it out for the first time that the noise showed up. That was one reason that I originally thought it was a failed component, rather than a routing issue. As if it were a routing issue, the nose should have existed the day the wires were zip tied together when the boat was built. I thought it a higher likelihood that some electrical component failed opposed to a wire routing change (sans a physical intervention to move around these wires/cables). Either way, this thread is off and to the races!
  27. Yes... The fact that they are zip-tied together for 24" makes it very likely this is where the interference is coming from. And the fact that the same analog line runs to-and-from the driver volume knob basically doubles the amount of interference in that signal line. That fact that my beeping is much more prominent on the drop-zone rear speakers suggests that it is really because those specific pre-amp analog lines are squeezed right up against the clarion remote cable, as opposed to the other pre-amp lines in the same bundle. The "insulation solution" would be to unbundle any sections where the wires are zip-tied together, wrap the digital clarion cable in EMI shielding, separately wrap the RCA preamp lines in shielding, and try to secure those wires to the boat as far apart from each other as possible, and see if that does the trick. If not, the EMI shielding might need to be connected to a ground or some large metal part to dissipate the induced current from the digital noise. The other somewhat remote possibility is that these long RCA pre-amp lines are picking up the clarion bluetooth signal.. The above shielding may be enough to fix this as well, or perhaps not. We'll have to test. Yes, those RCA cables are "pre-amp level analog sound"... We call them "pre-amp" because they are before the amplifier. This means they are very low power, which makes them very susceptible to interference. Frankly, it's a bad design to run a long analog pre-amp level audio line around through the boat to do that volume knob under the throttle, because this is always going to be very susceptible to interference. A better design is to have a control cable from those volume knobs which doesn't carry audio, but only the position of the knobs... Then a simple volume control board could be located right near the amplifiers, listening to the control-cable to tell what the volume knobs are set to. This is simple enough we could retrofit this pretty easily if the insulation attempts fail, but it's probably not necessary. ----- Centurion should really integrate the audio into the Centurion main console and ditch the clunky expensive Clarion head unit. This would provide a bunch of feature improvements, including: speed and/or RPM sensitive volume, control over bluetooth device from console screen, song information on main console, control XM/FM radio stations from main console... and those zone volume knobs could be either moved to the touch screen, or turned into signal-only knobs with zero chance for audio noise in the preamp lines. And while this has some design-cost, it would probably add some margin, as an XM tuner module is <$50, bluetooth chip is <$5, and an Si4844-A10 digital radio chip is <$15, and even a dedicated SoC subcomputer to handle real-time audio would be < $50, whereas a Clarion CMS4 plus remotes has to be $400+, and the functionality is worse. If they would open-source the Centurion console software and design, I'd do it myself and donate the improvements back to them.
  28. So after some new batteries, the screen came back to life! On to replacing impellers in the ballast pumps, as well as the QF gates. This forum has been a great help!
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