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  1. Last week
  2. Thanks for the help, Timr71. It's going to be a good project, for sure, and I can't wait to get it running back at 100%. I'll be sure to keep posting pictures and updates as I go along. -Joel
  3. I sent you some emails with the engine manual, the Morse control manual and the brochure. You're on the right track for sure with the carb and cleaning/replacing all inline fuel filters. Hopefully, all old gas has been siphoned from the tank and replaced with fresh. The bowls in the carb need to be drained and cleaned. The tube behind the dash is a protector for the rack and pinion steering, and yes it should be greased. But, I'm not really an expert on that. You'll need to seek out some better guidance on repair and maintenance of that item. Same of the steering tilt. The good news is that all that you have can be made to work as good as new. Good luck! Keep updating us. More pictures!
  4. Timr71, I just sent you a PM. Yesterday, I got the spark arrestor nice and clean and got that reinstalled today. I also replaced the flexible hose that runs from the exhaust bilge pump (is that what it's called) inside the engine cover and ran it to the back exhaust port (under the Ski Centurion metal plate). Next up will be figuring out how to examine and work on the carburetor, finding and examining/cleaning fuel filters, and calling Ron about the steering cable. In looking at the steering cable, there's the red line that runs to the rear of the boat and connects to the rudder system. There's also another tube that is mounted higher on the backside of the steering wheel. It looks like it is supposed to have grease inside of it, but it looks like it's bare. Wondering what that hose is for. Any ideas? In other steering fun, I also have to work on the steering wheel tilt system. When locked into position, it still has quite a bit of flex upwards and downwards, so there's something in there that needs to be worked on. I can't wait until I get this boat running well. It's going to be so much fun on the water! Thanks again, everyone.
  5. That's the same engine that's in my boat. And, I have the manual for it in a PDF. Let me see if I can attach it here. If not, I'll email it to you. The file is too big to attach to this post. Either post an email address in this thread. Or send me a PM with your email address and I'll get it to you. No problem.
  6. Yes, it does have a Chevy "stamp" on it, and the spark arrestor cover says Mercruiser. So it's a Chevy Mercruiser 350ci, 265 engine. I just didn't know if I'd be able to get a more specific model number so that I can look up diagrams and such online to help guide me a bit more. Thanks for the response, Timr71. Much appreciated!
  7. We would need to see a picture of your engine to confirm for sure. But, it sounds like your engine is a GM 350. Is it a Mercruiser? Earlier ski centurions were pretty much powered by Ford 351s, but in the 95/96 range they started going with the GM based 350. It's not too hard to tell them apart. If the distributor is at the back of the engine, towards the transom, it's a GM, if the distributor is at the front of the engine, towards the bow, it's a Ford. Here's a decent video of a guy taking apart a Holley 4160, but this is from a car. Your boat has a marine version of the 4160 (probably) so it should be very similar, but there are some details that specifically make it a marine carb and not an auto carb. You must preserve these marine details for your safety. Carb Cleaning A couple of thoughts on your carb. 1. There's a carb guru. His name is Peter Biever and he's on Facebook. He'll do a rebuild of your carb and walk you through all of the re-installation details. Here's his link: Peter Biever If you prefer to tackle the carb issue yourself, I'd post your questions over on iboats.com Navigate to the appropriate engine sub-forum and post your questions. There's a bunch of gurus over there and many of them have taken junk and turned them back into real boats.
  8. Thank you both. I was planning on calling today, but we had some health stuff come up (not Covid-19, but pet health) come up, so it'll have to wait a bit. Random question... I can't find a stamp for the model engine anywhere on my engine. Does anyone know what the engine is in the 1995 Falcon Sport. It says it's 350ci, 265hp. Not sure if that helps. Last... and again, forgive the rookie question... any suggestions on videos that would properly help me to clean out or rebuild the carburetor that is in this engine? Thanks in advance, all.
  9. ZS232 wave setup advice

    Will head over there, and thank you very much for the advice. This is my first surf boat (only rented Axis in the past, and they were pretty simple with SurfGate) so appreciate the help!
  10. Infinity Surf has given you a lot of great guidance. For your steering issues, here's a couple of videos that will help. Also, if/when you call Ski Boat parts online you can talk directly to Ron...the guy in the videos. Good luck! Measuring your steering cable More Steering Cable Help
  11. ZS232 wave setup advice

    The Centurion/Supreme Facebook page would be a great resource for this, lot of people there with the ZS232. Have heard a lot of great reviews on that boat! I do not have any personal experience with your boat....but am guessing that maybe how you are deploying your tabs is effecting the wave (you said you set at 100% for goofy?), you want the LEAST amount of surf tab possible to get a clean wave, the further you deploy the surf tab after that, the washier/worse the wave will get. Perhaps what is worth trying is filling ballast and then start deploying your surf tab a little at a time while watching the wave to see if that helps
  12. On #1, it does sound fuel related and probably the first thing would be to look at the carb and potentially do a re-build... if any ethenol fuel was left in there and the boat sat for a period of time, it could be gunked up in some places, perhaps clogging a jet. If it ran fine the first time you test drove it and then didnt.... point to possible trash in the fuel clogging something. However, it also points toward replacing any fuel filters you have in-line since it sounds like as you bump up the rpm, it starves for fuel and stalls so its not delivering the fuel the motor needs to run at the higher rpm's. I would also suggest replacing the fuel lines since if they are original they could be badly degraded on the inside, some of those old fuel lines will collapse as you increase rpm and not allow fuel flow. Doing a tune up is also in the cards since it could be related and is something you want to do regardless unless you know it was done recently....new plugs, wires and replace the distributor cap. Distributor cap gets corrosion on it and is a "wear item" and meant to be replaced every so often. That can cause all kinds of strange issues to happen. Don't forget replacing/servicing the impeller as that is really important to a healthy engine...at very least pull it and check the condition. (Pro tip)....use something like dawn dish soap rubbed on the impeller to make re-install super easy. You basically turn the impeller as you are pushing it back into the housing and with the soap lube, it goes much easier. It also helps impeller to stay in good condition since it will run dry a few seconds before the water gets too it when you re-start. #2 sounds like your steering cable is bad, that happens. You probably also have a grease zerk for your rudder box, its typically at the very back of the boat where the rudder box comes thru the bottom of the boat. That may help some....but likely your cable is the main culprit. Youtube has videos on how to replace, its not too hard... just be sure to use your existing steering cable to pull the new cable thru the hard to reach areas or you could spend a lot of time trying to fish the new cable thru the right places. Also check your rudder visually under the boat and make sure there is no obvious damage that is making the steering real hard....at that age it may be worth putting new packing in the rudder box at some point. Any maintenance you do is gonna make your overall experience better as well as keep the boat in top shape. Good luck and congrats on the boat. Good looking boat and the best family time ever
  13. Hi all. Let me start by saying I'm so glad to have found this forum! We just picked up a 1995 Falcon Sport with just 401 hours. The previous owner gave us a great deal, and included wakeboards, skis, lifejackets, and more. This is our first boat and I grew up with stern drives, so this is my first direct drive, so there's bound to be a large learning curve. With all that said, on to the questions. #1 - We took the boat out for the test drive, and there didn't seem to be any power issues. But when we took it out later that same week, we ended up stalling out twice. We would go slow and easy without a problem, increase throttle, and after a minute or two, we'd start losing power. Eventually the motor would just stop. The first time, we gave it a couple minutes and eventually got it going again. We tried the same thing, slow and easy at first, then increased the throttle. After a minute or two, we lost power, and the motor cut out again. (No backfires or anything... just died out.) This second time, we couldn't get it started right away. The engine wanted to turn over but just wouldn't kick in, so we dropped anchor and had lunch. After about 10-15 minutes, we got the engine started and slowly eased our way back to the ramp to load it back up. I'm really not sure what's going on here. The only thing that was different between the test drive and our ride was that we topped off the gas. However, we also topped off our 4Runner at the same time, so most likely not bad gas. My plan is to start small and work top down. I'm going to clean the spark/backfire arrestor. While I'm working on the arrestor, I'm going to take a look at the carb. (I'm also patching the flexible hose that pulls air out of the engine area so that I can ensure it's got good air... it's got a lot of holes in in right now.) As I said, this is my first boat and really first time working with engines (I do oil changes on ours and such on our trucks, but that's about it). Any advice and/or ideas you can give would be a great help! #2 - The steering is really stiff. REALLY stiff. Regardless of being on the trailer or in the water, the steering just isn't responsive. I really need to crank on the steering to get the boat to turn, and continue cranking in order to take it to full lock, regardless of turning to the left or the right. Wondering where I should start looking to try to make it a bit easier. Let's start with just those two questions. Again, any help y'all can provide will be a big help! Thanks in advance!! -Joel
  14. Earlier
  15. After researching Wylie's suggestion, it is a much better route but at an added cost and install headache. if you have the time, talent and money go the Blue Sea route. This kit looks like it has what you would need. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A Would that be a good kit Wylie_Tunes?
  16. Not a lot of posts out there about the ZS232, but a few from @2011V208 stating it takes some tinkering. I've only had mine out twice (once being the demo) and I've struggled to consistently shape up a good wave. When it's on, it's amazing (VERY tall) but it seems even a small movement from a passenger will make it crumble. With a 8 people total (4 of them fairly light weight) I had the quick surf set up for 100% for goofy (starboard side wave) and lightened PNP port to ~30% and bow tank to ~50% (rest at 100%) and played with the trim tab pretty much all over the place. Tried a full bow, full everything, and a few other configurations but I'm hoping there's a more consistent setup. Anyone else have a quality setup or other setups that I should explore some? It seems finicky overall, doesn't take much to go from amazing to crappy. Thanks in advance for advice.
  17. I'm running the battery dr. for about 3 years now and it works great for me. It makes sure the start battery is always fully charged and then starts charging the house. I monitor the batteries and if they start acting weird then I replace. While the boat is at the house I also have an onboard charger that I plug in. My boat had several wires connected to the single battery from factory. I found the wires that go to the starter and alternator and put them on the start battery all the other wires went to the house battery. everything works like a champ. one thing I did that the battery dr. didn't have was I put a switch inline so when the boat is at the house, and I plug in the onboard charger I can turn off the battery dr. I put the switch in line for the ground wire (4) off the battery dr. When I get in the boat, i flip the switch on and the battery dr. does the rest. I think I did a write up on my install. I'll see if I can find it. Edit: didn't find where I did a write up but Wylie-Tunes and I discussed it on this thread also.
  18. A Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch and VSR will allow you to achieve: Zero non-critical loads connected direct to a battery isolation of the main and house bank while under load Charging of both banks while engine running One step ON and OFF Emergency starting. Dedicated house and dedicated main cranking banks If that 10ga B+ supply to the helm fuse box does not connect to the existing battery's B+, then it likely terminates to starter main post or somewhere else around then engine. You would have to either relocate this, or just run a new supply from the house side of the switch. If the key switch's B+ input comes from that fuse box, you also need to pull that off and draw from the main side of the switch.
  19. you may have to blow out the speedo tube to fix that. the tach should be running off engine signal though, so i'm not sure why that would be inaccurate.
  20. marine hardware .com should be able to help you out. Catalog
  21. Good point on the isolator max amperage, I missed the fact that the 150A fuse to the aux battery will blow if you try to cross connect to start using the battery doctor. If I add a 6011 switch or equivalent, that should enable me to keep the circuits separate as well as interconnect for a dead starter battery and bypass the VSR, correct? I definitely overthought this one and came up with a dumb plan, thanks for the help. I'm still a little hesitant on the ignition wiring, specifically, having the ignition circuit on the starting battery and everything else powered from the fused distribution block from the other battery would result in the two batteries being connected, i.e., voltage differential, somewhere down the line in a relay, sensor, etc. I would not think that this would be the case but want to make sure before something gets fried. To test this out so far, I lifted the + 10 AWG lead to the distribution block as well as the ignition lead from that same block. I used a fused test lead to power just the ignition lead and verified that all necessary things to run the boat (gauges/ecu/starting circuit) have power which lead me to believe that I would be okay splitting out the power sources.
  22. In simple terms, the voltage sensing relay isolator, allows charge voltage to pass from the main bank to the house bank, when there is charge. And, prevent loads from each bank to draw from the other bank, when there is no charge. So the introduction of the device, changes little to nothing, regarding the wiring of the rest of the system as it pertains to the style of switch you have. If you leave out the main battery switch, you lose 2 important functions. 1) the ability to separate the loads from the batteries, when the boat is not in use. 2) you do not have means to use the house bank for emergency starting. IMO, the switch, and the proper one for the design, is the backbone of the battery system. I know the battery dr unit states it has a manual combine mode for emergency parallel starting. As I stated, I would not do this. That unit has a 150A peak. A V8 starter can easily peak north of 250A, then level off around 200A once the engine is up to starter speed.
  23. Let’s take the switch out of the conversation for now since it’s not really necessary with the battery doctor isolator. If I do the following, what issues do you see: 1) Wire the isolator per the diagram from battery doctor. As I understand it, this should maintain both batteries charged and allow connecting them for a short duration to start in an emergency. 2) Run a cable from the auxiliary battery + to the fused distribution block under the dash so that all the house loads (except ignition and gauges, below) run off the new battery. 3) Move the stereo system power to the aux battery. 4) Retain the original distribution block + cable to power the ignition lead which will be moved off of the factory fused distribution block to a new fused line. This will retain the ignition circuit/gauges on the starting battery and shouldn’t cross power paths with the aux battery hotel circuits as far as I can tell looking at the Merc 350 Mag MPI schematics. Thanks!
  24. You do not want to have starter draw going through the VSR isolator. Your switch is quite different then the one in ^^^ this illustration. Your switch is designed, and intended, to have all loads go through it, with a couple of exceptions, depending on the boat. Despite the switch difference, as you can see, all loads are going through the switch on the above illustration. Based on this and the rest of this post, you have the least ideal switch, to do this.
  25. So I was out on a new lake last weekend and I found a tree under water and messed some Crap up , i need help finding a propeller shaft Strut , and 2 tracking fins. No one local to the Lubbock area knows where to find them idk if they just don’t want to mess with it or what but I need to get the boat back on the water for summer so any help would be appreciated
  26. I was thinking like this, only with the switch only handling the house load power source not two different circuits since the isolator can connect both if needed for an emergency start.
  27. I appreciate the help on this, I may need to re-draw to better show the arrangement. The way that (ideally) I am looking to have things wired would be to either have power being fed to the “house” loads from the aux battery or from the original hot lead which is powered from the starting battery. Also, I want the isolator to recharge both batteries without having to flip a switch, which as I understand it, is what the battery doctor style isolators do. This way I can sit with ballast, stereo, lights, etc. without having to worry about being able to restart should the aux battery die. I see now that I also would want to keep the fused “Ignition” lead under the dash fed from the original hot lead from the engine bay/starting battery to accomplish this. I was trying to avoid wiring a new second distribution block for the house loads since really all but the ignition lead (gauges/starting) would be moved over to a new aux block.
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