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Everything posted by jtryon

  1. i have a single 12" sub in mine in that same location under the glovebox with an amp bridged at 1200W and it hits hard. i typically can only run it at half volume with an EQ or it will vibrate everything. i'd do that before going through all the work of cutting a hole, personally.
  2. per this post the part number is 18-5273. looks to be cheapest with the Sierra replacement here, unless you want to go OEM. take note of the following in the first link from Troy: " Rotor you have to remove the trigger wheel? The silver ring off the bottom of the rotor (3 screws) otherwise the same as what came off the boat"
  3. was the IAC valve replaced? i might start there, there's a thread on it on this site showing normal symptoms, so if those were what you were experiencing prior to the no-start the IAC valve could be the culprit.
  4. a couple pics for reference:
  5. I just fixed the same issue on mine. I’ve had to give mine gas at startup for two seasons and finally swapped it last month and it’s running perfectly with no gas needed at startup now. Previously I would have to warm it up for 2-3 min on the trailer before launching so that it wouldn't stall when going into gear, now no issues. If it helps, i found it cheapest at Nuwave Marine, SKU 710-8M0181068 and still a genuine Mercury part. Don't try the Amazon/off-brand ones, many have tried and failed. If you're looking elsewhere, the original part numbers are 862998 8M0181068. When you go to replace it, the cover is harder than you think to get off. There's 6 obvious bolts on the top of the engine cover, but then if you look towards the back of the motor where your pulleys are, there's two more nuts underneath the cover. They're in line with the 3 top ones on each side which should help find them, maybe 3-4" in from the back edge of the cover. If the cover doesn't come off easily like mine, take a pry bar or hammer and leverage the metal cooling jacket close to the back of the motor and gently pry up on the cover, it will pop right off. I was standing on either side of the motor pulling with everything i had, tapping on the cover, pulling hard on one side at a time, and nothing would make it budge till i gently pried it up as stated. once you get at the IAC valve, you should see what looks like a screened gasket which you'll want to keep. buy an IAC muffler too, which is basically just little white foam squares that you stuff in the bottom port of the IAC intake, the top port stays clear. clean off the old gasket material where it mounts to the engine, then the sequence is IAC muffler on bottom port, engine side>new gasket>screen>new IAC valve. it should make sense once you're in there good luck!
  6. 2007 Avy C4

    make sure you cold start it to see that the IAC valve is working properly and you don't need to give it gas at startup. check when the impeller was done last. the impeller housing on these gets a groove worn into it if the impeller isn't changed frequently enough, and that causes priming issues which could make it overheat. the dipstick for the vdrive is impossible to get to, so see if they have any record of vdrive maintenance which is just a drain and refill really. check the color of the trans fluid as well, it should be a nice dark pink. easy to do yourself after purchase but it shows if they took care of it. ask in advance if it has one ballast pump or 3 which might indicate if it's been upgraded. the stock setup in some cases was one pump and a sprinkler valve which filled both rear bags, which isn't ideal. it's a relatively easy upgrade to single pumps but equals work, if that matters to you. hopefully it doesn't have Sideswipe exhaust with dual exhaust outlets out of either side of the hull? you can tell from pictures. you want the exhaust exiting from the rear. again, upgrade-able but that one is a lot more work to do. check that it has Perfect Pass and it's working. also check the multi-function gauges as some of the functions tend to go out.
  7. Possible purchase of a 05 Enzo

    i believe the 1.46:1 vdrive started in '06 so you might be out of luck on that and have a 1:1. props are undersized every year when we're putting thousands of pounds more ballast in than the factory did back then speaking of ballast, i think the enzo had a better ballast pump setup but i could be wrong--check if each ballast bag has individual pumps for drain and fill or if it's a "sprinkler" style ballast system where one pump fills them all. sprinkler style is less desirable, but upgradable. does it have sideswipe exhaust? by now it's probably not working if it does have it, but it's LOUD even with mufflers. many choose to delete it and do an FAE-style exhaust out the rear. they didn't use the best interior vinyl back then either, so check that closely to see if it's all dried out or if they kept it in good shape, or even better if it's been replaced already. solid boats otherwise, there's just some typical maintenance things that tend to happen on all of them but this forum can solve most of those. for instance, IAC valve replacement, worn water pump housing internals causing priming issues for the cooling system.
  8. just got this from Walters, so i'll look into it. Light should be ON anytime in neutral or IN GEAR below approx 1000 rpm
  9. it worked right before changing the oil, it would be quite a coincidence if the sensor died the next time the boat was started, no? anyone else out there with a sensor light that stays off?
  10. i asked the same when i replaced mine and had no takers. did your valves work for left and right switching of the exhaust? i'd keep those if so, but most have gone bad by now so they're not worth anything.
  11. Hi All, I just bought a 2007 Typhoon C4 and am going through it this off-season and making it a surf monster. I'll do a build thread as I get into some of the heavy stuff like 1600gph pump upgrades, converting Sideswipe to my own FAE, etc. I do have some questions that I haven't found answers to though, so I'm hoping someone here can help. 1. I'm looking for replacement interior courtesy light covers--the oval ones that are in most Avys and Typhoons before/after the step-up into the bow, and in the rear center passenger seat. The ones on my boat are hazy and yellowing, so I'd like to replace them with new clear ones. 2. Any spare parts that I need to keep onboard other than impeller and serpentine belt? IAC valve (was done recently but I'll get a spare)? CPS? Are there any "common" failure points on the 330HP Black Scorpion that would be a quick fix on the water if I have the parts handy? Is the starter relay an external part on these? I had an '88 Supra before and the starter relay went out on the water once, so I always kept a spare after that. 3. I have the 1.46:1 vdrive. What are people running for surf props at sea level on these? I was going to go as low as possible--Acme 2227 which is a 13.25 x 12.5 pitch x .105 cup 4-blade prop, but I don't see many people running that in my searches. There's also the more common Acme 1619 which is a 13.5 x 13.75 pitch x .075 cup 4-blade. Is the 2227 overkill with the Black Scorpion and 1.46 v-drive? I'll be running around 4000lbs ballast I hope. 4. The speedometer is very flaky and bounces around a bit at speed. Not hugely important, but is this an easy fix? I've heard on older boats that you need to blow out the tube attached to the speedo--same idea here? It does also have the dial near the throttle to adjust the speedo to match the PP speed. 5. Anyone with good dual-battery relocation documentation? I currently have a single battery but will add a second one along with the Blue Sea add-a-battery kit. I want to get them as far back as possible but don't want them taking up space in the lockers since I'll have full ballast bags in there most of the time. Or are the lockers the best spot? Thanks in advance!
  12. glad to hear! yes the SS get's LOUD around 15mph, that's why i scrapped it along with the fact that the side-to-side switching didn't work. that link to wakegarage is actually mine, let me know if you have any questions on that project. it's my 3rd season on it and no issues. i just had a local fab shop finish the downpipe (FAE-style) for me for around $350, so all-in i'm well below the FAE conversion cost. that being said, FAE is a good option for a plug-and-play conversion. you're correct in that the side benefit of removing SS is gaining space for ballast, and typhoon's do need more weight than avy's. i upgraded to these bags (link) this season and the surf wave is noticeably better than with the 1280's that i had prior.
  13. i think i found the one you are looking at and that price is about average for the market. a little high given the year, but close enough to what others are asking for similar ones including the 1' shorter and much more common Avalanche. i would just verify that those are the true hours because it's very common for the meter to go out on these. check the perfect pass screen if it has one and that should have the true engine hours stored. i think the procedure is the menu+up arrow at the same time, then system info, then it's in that next menu somewhere.
  14. does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.
  15. haha welcome to the club, i had this same question last season. the dipstick is definitely a stout one so you have to trust that bending it to get around that seat frame won't break it off, but that's the only way to get it out. poor design for sure. i checked the level of mine on the trailer after a drain/refill and it's worked perfectly with no warning light since. mine would have the light on at idle and up to 900-ish RPM but would go off after that; since changing the fluid and topping it off it doesn't even come on at idle anymore.
  16. put as big of a bag as you can in the rear compartment that you're surfing on, and it should surf great with nothing else.
  17. the priming thing happened with mine when i was doing my first impeller change after buying the boat. the PO didn't use it much in the 5 years he owned it so must have never changed it, and the old one wore a ring where it rides against the pump housing. i see you already installed the plate that goes between the two halves of the housing to fix the issue when you install a new impeller. call Steve Buttrick at C&S Marine Pumps. i got my impeller from him, and when i went to install it he had included a note in the box that stated this exact issue being common for the Merc motors. super good guy to work with a he was a fraction of the cost of others that i was shopping around. i bet he can talk through what it would take to get yours fixed. C & S Marine Pumps Inc 149 s Highway 97 Cantonment , Florida 32533 Cell (850) 380-1731
  18. absolutely go with the bigger bags.
  19. Leftover 07 Enzo Parts

    if the Corsa actuators to switch sides were still working i'm sure that's worth some $ to someone. they tend to have gone bad by now on those mid-2000's models. i'd also keep the switchblade and actuators as those are impossible to replace, maybe someone will need them down the road. i'd toss the muffler though.
  20. FAE for 06 Avy C4

    i'd delete the muffler. i don't even hear mine running with no muffler, plus now everything in the back of the motor is much more accessible now. i think the muffler was necessary with sideswipe because it's so loud at cruising speeds, but not with FAE.
  21. they should be the same as long as you're getting C4 versus the walkthrough template. as far as alternatives, i like aquamarinedeck.com, they're cheaper and still great quality, i'm just not sure they have a template to pick off the site. worth emailing them to get a price though.
  22. Underwater LED light placement

    nice advertisement on your first post. we're talking underwater lights, not navigation lights.
  23. it's hard to tell from the pics since they won't increase in size, but my .02: leave that 800gph to fill the center 250lb tank, since you can't remove that tank anyway. sell the front ballast bag (u-shaped one) because these hulls don't like front weight. add two big bags in each of the rear lockers, two 1" thru-hulls and two tsunami 1200gph pumps to fill them. check if the stock yellow pumps in the lockers still work, and you can even leave those for a while if you want to save money as those will only affect drain times. i think they are 800gph drain pumps.

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