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Everything posted by jtryon

  1. i asked the same when i replaced mine and had no takers. did your valves work for left and right switching of the exhaust? i'd keep those if so, but most have gone bad by now so they're not worth anything.
  2. Hi All, I just bought a 2007 Typhoon C4 and am going through it this off-season and making it a surf monster. I'll do a build thread as I get into some of the heavy stuff like 1600gph pump upgrades, converting Sideswipe to my own FAE, etc. I do have some questions that I haven't found answers to though, so I'm hoping someone here can help. 1. I'm looking for replacement interior courtesy light covers--the oval ones that are in most Avys and Typhoons before/after the step-up into the bow, and in the rear center passenger seat. The ones on my boat are hazy and yellowing, so I'd like to replace them with new clear ones. 2. Any spare parts that I need to keep onboard other than impeller and serpentine belt? IAC valve (was done recently but I'll get a spare)? CPS? Are there any "common" failure points on the 330HP Black Scorpion that would be a quick fix on the water if I have the parts handy? Is the starter relay an external part on these? I had an '88 Supra before and the starter relay went out on the water once, so I always kept a spare after that. 3. I have the 1.46:1 vdrive. What are people running for surf props at sea level on these? I was going to go as low as possible--Acme 2227 which is a 13.25 x 12.5 pitch x .105 cup 4-blade prop, but I don't see many people running that in my searches. There's also the more common Acme 1619 which is a 13.5 x 13.75 pitch x .075 cup 4-blade. Is the 2227 overkill with the Black Scorpion and 1.46 v-drive? I'll be running around 4000lbs ballast I hope. 4. The speedometer is very flaky and bounces around a bit at speed. Not hugely important, but is this an easy fix? I've heard on older boats that you need to blow out the tube attached to the speedo--same idea here? It does also have the dial near the throttle to adjust the speedo to match the PP speed. 5. Anyone with good dual-battery relocation documentation? I currently have a single battery but will add a second one along with the Blue Sea add-a-battery kit. I want to get them as far back as possible but don't want them taking up space in the lockers since I'll have full ballast bags in there most of the time. Or are the lockers the best spot? Thanks in advance!
  3. glad to hear! yes the SS get's LOUD around 15mph, that's why i scrapped it along with the fact that the side-to-side switching didn't work. that link to wakegarage is actually mine, let me know if you have any questions on that project. it's my 3rd season on it and no issues. i just had a local fab shop finish the downpipe (FAE-style) for me for around $350, so all-in i'm well below the FAE conversion cost. that being said, FAE is a good option for a plug-and-play conversion. you're correct in that the side benefit of removing SS is gaining space for ballast, and typhoon's do need more weight than avy's. i upgraded to these bags (link) this season and the surf wave is noticeably better than with the 1280's that i had prior.
  4. i think i found the one you are looking at and that price is about average for the market. a little high given the year, but close enough to what others are asking for similar ones including the 1' shorter and much more common Avalanche. i would just verify that those are the true hours because it's very common for the meter to go out on these. check the perfect pass screen if it has one and that should have the true engine hours stored. i think the procedure is the menu+up arrow at the same time, then system info, then it's in that next menu somewhere.
  5. does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.
  6. haha welcome to the club, i had this same question last season. the dipstick is definitely a stout one so you have to trust that bending it to get around that seat frame won't break it off, but that's the only way to get it out. poor design for sure. i checked the level of mine on the trailer after a drain/refill and it's worked perfectly with no warning light since. mine would have the light on at idle and up to 900-ish RPM but would go off after that; since changing the fluid and topping it off it doesn't even come on at idle anymore.
  7. put as big of a bag as you can in the rear compartment that you're surfing on, and it should surf great with nothing else.
  8. the priming thing happened with mine when i was doing my first impeller change after buying the boat. the PO didn't use it much in the 5 years he owned it so must have never changed it, and the old one wore a ring where it rides against the pump housing. i see you already installed the plate that goes between the two halves of the housing to fix the issue when you install a new impeller. call Steve Buttrick at C&S Marine Pumps. i got my impeller from him, and when i went to install it he had included a note in the box that stated this exact issue being common for the Merc motors. super good guy to work with a he was a fraction of the cost of others that i was shopping around. i bet he can talk through what it would take to get yours fixed. C & S Marine Pumps Inc 149 s Highway 97 Cantonment , Florida 32533 Cell (850) 380-1731
  9. absolutely go with the bigger bags.
  10. Leftover 07 Enzo Parts

    if the Corsa actuators to switch sides were still working i'm sure that's worth some $ to someone. they tend to have gone bad by now on those mid-2000's models. i'd also keep the switchblade and actuators as those are impossible to replace, maybe someone will need them down the road. i'd toss the muffler though.
  11. FAE for 06 Avy C4

    i'd delete the muffler. i don't even hear mine running with no muffler, plus now everything in the back of the motor is much more accessible now. i think the muffler was necessary with sideswipe because it's so loud at cruising speeds, but not with FAE.
  12. they should be the same as long as you're getting C4 versus the walkthrough template. as far as alternatives, i like aquamarinedeck.com, they're cheaper and still great quality, i'm just not sure they have a template to pick off the site. worth emailing them to get a price though.
  13. Underwater LED light placement

    nice advertisement on your first post. we're talking underwater lights, not navigation lights.
  14. it's hard to tell from the pics since they won't increase in size, but my .02: leave that 800gph to fill the center 250lb tank, since you can't remove that tank anyway. sell the front ballast bag (u-shaped one) because these hulls don't like front weight. add two big bags in each of the rear lockers, two 1" thru-hulls and two tsunami 1200gph pumps to fill them. check if the stock yellow pumps in the lockers still work, and you can even leave those for a while if you want to save money as those will only affect drain times. i think they are 800gph drain pumps.
  15. 2005 Avy Surf Wake help

    dimensions for my typhoon are 10" height, 26" width under the passenger seat, so you can start there on wakemakers' site and get whatever length you need. check here, for instance they have a 50"L x 25"W x 10"H which gives you 500lbs, or a 60" long for 610lbs, or 70" long for 710lbs.
  16. since you're halfway there, i'd just leave the tanks out and add ballast bags that fill the rear lockers. add two thru-hulls and pumps on their own switches to fill those new bags, and use the existing pump just for the center tank. that will make everything less complicated and give you better fill times. yours probably has what's referred to as a sprinkler valve, if you want to search here for more info on it. most guys just rip it out and upgrade it though.
  17. i would definitely take the boat if you're essentially getting it for free plus your payout--you can probably have someone lined up to buy it for $5-10K within a week. was the motor pickled as soon as it was pulled from the water, i.e. got all the water out, no water in the oil after running it afterwards? if the motor checks out and has good compression still, that's huge. can you take your $47k, keep the boat yourself and drop it off at a shop to redo the important items after shopping around for better prices? you should be able to replace all the important stuff like gauges, perfect pass, etc. with new ones just as a peace of mind and still come out well on top.
  18. 13-year-old thread brought back to life, wow! since it's bumped up, there's a great thread on this site called "winterized my black scorpion" with everything a scorpion owner needs to know on proper winterization.
  19. that's either the raw water intake or paddlewheel location i think...strange that either of those would leak when taking it out of the water. i can see a small amount coming out from there if it's the raw water intake, basically anything that didn't circulate though the motor, but that would be over in a few seconds. it would make more sense if it's the paddlewheel and the water that's coming out is from a bad seal between the paddlewheel housing and hull, so that's just the water draining back out from your bilge which had gotten full while the boat was in the water. check under your rear center flip-up seat and you should see the v-drive, and right in front of that towards the bow should be your paddlewheel that looks like a round black housing with a couple wires going into it. see if that feels loose? pour some water on that and see if it drains out from that same spot.
  20. just pull out the valves and run one bag off the existing pump, and add another thru-hull and pump for the other bag. never worry about it again
  21. i would check that the throttle cable from the servo isn't loose first. my old supra would have an issue like yours maybe once a season and it was always that the adjustment nut for the servo cable backed off a little.
  22. post #7 in that thread from Bigcatpt goes into great detail with a diagram and everything.
  23. i'd check your IAC valve or at minimum clean the IAC muffler. that's a pretty common issue on these motors that has been documented here. good thread on it here: http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/9368-guys-with-iac-issues-tell-me-what-you-think/
  24. 2006 Avalanche C4

    ugh sorry to hear that.
  25. 2006 Centurion Avalanche C4

    it's the Skylon Tribal, 2 ⅜” diameter tubes if you're adding accessories.

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