Wylie_Tunes

Try leaving the B+ to that suspect light and disconnect/reconnect the B+ to the other tp sync it to the other one and then turn them off and see.

Sounds like they are out of sync. Pick one and disconnect and reconnect the light's B+ until it cycles through to the same mode as the other.

@Nick213 it would be impossible for me to say why you blew multiple wet sounds woofers wired to another brand amp. I could speculate, but thats all. With that said, too much wattage can blow a woofer. Extra wattage potential is called head room. What does that mean? if your amp was tuned to its full potential of 2500W watt rms and then paired to a single woofer with a 1200W rms/2400W peak rating, I could see the woofer coil having a melt down or mechanical failure. If the amp was tuned to something in the range of 1800 rms give or take a couple hundred watts rms, I would not expect the woofer to blow IF everything else was spot on Enclosure specs, amp tuning other then gain. Clean, un-clipped signal into the amp, etc.

For a good match, go with the Syn-DX2.3HP. 1200W rms x 1 bridged 4 ohm. best amp, SDX-2500. Up to 2500W rms @ 1 ohm. Box. Dual or single port makes no difference, its all about the port volume and tuned frequency. A single slot or round, will be a slightly smaller gross dimension wise. This can help fitting the enclosure where it needs to be. if space is not an issue, the dual slot port looks great. Especially if you load some LEDS in the back of the port, to light them up.

two pair 14ga to each light or a single pair 12ga for both lights would be how id do it.

Ok, thats not long enough to get them warm. But what made the difference between not coming on to coming on, but only a second? The load of both could be overloading the PDM. A relay triggered by the PDM would be the solution, but you want to make sure the fuse does not exceed the capacity of the wiring to the lights.

Ok, lets start with what you found, that got the lights to come on? Next, whats a few seconds? This lights have thermal control, and can shut down when they get warm.

Heres one thing to consider regarding flow. Impeller pumps are a positive displacement style pump. They are not as effected by head pressure or restrictions, as other style pumps. A restriction, as the old style sprinkler valves may be, velocity of the flow goes up, while flow rate may only drop a little. So you may only see a slight increase in flow rate, while greatly reducing the flow velocity, if filling only one sac/tank. In the end, you still have one pump filling multiple sacs/tanks. So what ever the pump's output is, its still being divided across the summed total ballast capacity. Since each sac/tank already has drain plumbing, you could consider less expensive (then a reversible) one-way impeller pumps, one for each sac/tank. Would only need 3, as the 2 existing would be re-purposed.

This is a waving flag for me. Sounds like the valve needs another voltage trigger to change state again. Your ballast switches will not do this. The switch is on = voltage to valve or off = no voltage. Sounds like this valve opens, removed voltage from motor, then awaits another voltage input before closing. It would never see that 2nd voltage input to close. Thats how it reads, without further investigation. Im sure you've read it before, but it suggested to ditch the valve and common manifold setup. Give each tank/sac its own pump and plumbing. Worth considering.

I see no reason why you could not close the hole up in a permanent fashion. There is nothing in that void of the bilge that is serviceable. On the flip side, once the enclosure and facade are in place, you will never no it one way or the other. So nothing wrong with leaving the cut out as is.

Cut away

You must connect the new battery to the ground circuit, or its not part of the loop, and the alternator will never charge it. That 6ga ground is supply from the battery for the helm, not a ground to the battery. Sounds like they tossed the house bank ground cable. If everything is wired correctly, nothing will draw from the main cranking bank when engine is off, so audio should never run the main down. Get in boat, turn to on, leave boat, turn to off.

Oh, ok, so the switch and VSR are already installed, but the 2nd battery was removed. I dealt with this same scenario last month, just older boat. lets presume that everything on the back of the switch is correct. In this case, you just need to figure out witch B+ cable is connect to the house side of the switch and which is connected to the main cranking side. Then move the appropriate cable to the new battery.

Much more involved then this. No loads, but the auto bilge, are wired battery direct, so everything goes through the switch. You will need to determine which loads, currently on the existing battery B+, are house and which are for making the boat go. Then you will wire them to the appropriate terminals on the switch. Without the new bank connected to the existing bank, it will not be part of the electrical loop. Battery will quickly go dead.

Dont bother with the end. Disconnect the wire from the switch output and plug up your own wire/terminal.