Wylie_Tunes

You can run the KINGs on 12ga cable. Theres not a wake boat out there large enough to require a long enough run for larger cable. Is larger OK? Sure, knock yourself out. So, is the cable gauge adequate? Is the reversing switch adequate? Is the circuit protection adequate? Now, before making the choice, I would convert that "33%" in to time. Time difference between the current pump to fill the ballast and time for the new pump to fill. IS that gain worth it?

Engine size? For a typical small block, a group 24 cranking will do just fine and a 27 or 29/31 group size for a larger engine like an 8.1. Does the boat have a dual bank setup with battery switch? if so, then you'd likely want a dedicated deep-cycle. Now, this is where it gets tough to provide a simple answer. The size and/or amp/hour you will need, really depends on how long you want to drop anchor and play the system. This can get a little deep as you need to know the amps, what speaker loads their driving in order to get an idea of their potential current draw. Then you have to calculate that into amp hours based on how long you want to play with engine off. Even then, its a guess as music is not constant.

Looks like that H/U does have only one stereo RCA output, So you would need to split it, or use a hi-level to RCA converter on a 2 pair of the speaker outputs.

With a proper distribution block(s), yes. However, you have to figure out if the size (gauge) of those cables will carry the load of that 2nd amp. What model head unit?

Sorry @cameron, I do not use PM. You can ask away here or start a thread of your own.

With the bow away from shore, the boat is not as big a target for the wind a waves to push on. So once you set the primary anchor and pay out the desired rode as you back towards shore, you tie off the rode once that distance to shore is reached. Off the transom, you anchor the boat to shore. Im a fluke style anchor guy, and carry two plus a shore spike. Regardless of your anchor of choice, its mainly technique and practice.

Ive found that anchoring bow out, then shore spike tied to the stern, works best in this scenario. Type of anchor does not matter as much as long as its suited for the lake bottom and enough rode is used. The rollers split the bow much better then slapping against the transom.

I think your battery setup is just fine for your use. yes, ALL the speaker will be wired to amps, which is best. Both amps connected to head unit vie RCA cables.

Ok, here is what I would do: Use the existing polk 5 chnl for the woofer, as it is now, the then the new tower speakers on the 4 full range chnls. This will give them up to 250 watts rms to each side. That perfect! Then, pick up a nice 2 chnl amp and move the 4 in-boats over to it. The Kicker KXMA400.2 would be a slight bump in wattage, from what the in-boats are getting now, rather then taking a step back.

Lets wait till you get the specifics on the polk 5 chnl and the woofer, before making a tower amp suggestion.

Those 6.5" HLCD when powered right, can project music to a boarder. You will need another amp to achieve this. If anchoring and playing tunes is not the objective, then your current batteries are fine. However, you would want to make sure the system is wired correctly for the type of switch you have. A couple inches between amps is nice, allows for some ventilation. I would not worry about close being a fire hazard though.

Are there issues or just not meeting your expectation? Both need to be addressed moving forward, or you run the risk of spending money and time, only to have this repeat itself. Since looking at a 6.5" HLCD, what are your tower speaker goals? An amp like this will do well for 2-3 pair of in-boats and woofer. You will likely want a dedicated amp for the tower speakers. If you experiencing issues while the engine is running, you do not have battery issue most likely. Sounds like cable, alternator or system configuration or use issue which needs to be address first. Adding more draw will just compound the issue. if you are asking if you have adequate power for anchoring, need to know the total system draw, which is you are not able to determine at this point, since more equipment may be added. Also need to know how you will typically use the system, and build a bank accordingly.

Page 5 and 6 of the manual illustrated as #10 and #11. It tells those chnls where their signal is coming in. https://wetsounds.com/media/products/manuals/Wet_Sounds_HT6_User_Manual.pdf Swap the left and right chnls at the zone controller, then swap the front and rear outputs as well.

If you plug the RCA into 3/4 or 5/6, you have to change the input mode switch(s). If you reversed the 1/2 RCA or in other words, swapped the left and right rca and the dead speakers start playing the previously playing speakers stop, its likely upstream like the RCA or the head unit.

So when you swapped the left and right RCAs, the same 3 speakers remained off? Move the RCAs to the 3 and 4 in-puts, change the in-put mode and see if 2 of the 3 suspect speakers then play.