Wylie_Tunes

no adjustment to the pump, thats what the timer for. whats the range on the timer is what i was getting at. depends on where u locate the thru-hulls and the height of the sacs

Whats its adjustable range? With two 1100'ish lb sacs, looking at about 22 minutes or 15 mins for two 750'ish sacs. These new pumps run a synthetic impeller, so burning one up is rare unless you forget its one and make a 30 minute run across the lake. Crossing the vents while weighted evenly in the back usually does not fix the passive draining like it does when listed over. Listing puts the vent up hill from the sac when crossed.

Draining back through the bottom is far better. Diverting to a side thru-hull is problematic. That schematic should work, if your goal is to fill and drain both sacs simultaneously. Will be easy to come back later and add a 2nd pump kit if you wanted.

Are you looking to divert the drain over the side, rather then run it right back into the lake?

Sounds like you have a universal single pump kit and need a custom kit for filling 2 sacs or need to purchase a 2nd universal kit.

Just connect your charger to one of the batteries and turn it on. Withing a few minutes, you should the green "COMBINE" light on the ACR illuminate, indicating that its closed, and some charge is now going to both banks. If you dont see the light come on, then turn the switch to the COMBINE position, which circumvents the switch. Not ideal, but works.

It is fair to say though, that the comparison was done with the oval SCM-10. The SCR-24 would be a great comparison to see. The SCR-24 is more then 2x the 12V current draw of the SCM-10 @ 7.5A. Also want to note that Liquid Lumens now offers a more budget friendly light, the Skinny Dip. A pair of Skinny Dip and power kit are right in line with Seablaze-X and Lifeform 9, but a little brighter.

EPA killed TBI. Would likely still see it around if it wasnt for emission standards. It was so simple and effective, just could not keep up with the emission standards, mainly the exhaust HC's. Too much liquid fuel making it through do to the wet intake design. Same reasons we are seeing direct-injection replace original MPI. Even better atomizing post valves compared to pre valves. Id own a TBI boat in a heart beat. Id think LONG and hard about a carb, unless is was a classic and going to stay that way.

That one is TBI

The Genius GEN4 is a 4 bank 40A and would give you 10A to each bank.

Just to confirm, the boat has a dual bank setup with a main battery switch, correct? You will want to build the house bank with brand new batteries of same type, size and group, and NOT add/wire on to the existing house battery. This is important for life span and battery health. IMO, the best bang for the buck is a pair of 6V golf cart batteries. Still hard to say whether you need 2 or 4, need a little more info about the amps, plus account for another amp, yet to be determined. Next, charging. With a large house bank, you have to rely heavily on shore charging, and not on the alternator. You are easily looking at a 30A charger, maybe 40A even.

The issue is your extra check valves in order to divert the drain flow over the side. The check valves are prone to leak, allow the pump to draw rather then prime. You can prove this by corking the drain outlet. Best advice based on experience, ditch the setup and just just pump the drain flow right back out the bottom of the lake.

Yes, there is a thermostat, but it sounds like the impeller is sucking air. Missing or torn r-ring?

Sure! I run lots of boats on hose water and they do not flow a steady stream, they burp water as it pools in the exhaust, then gets blown out. Wash, rinse, repeat.

A steady stream is not an indication of an issue, In most cases, its more like burps of water.