Wylie_Tunes

A Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch and VSR will allow you to achieve: Zero non-critical loads connected direct to a battery isolation of the main and house bank while under load Charging of both banks while engine running One step ON and OFF Emergency starting. Dedicated house and dedicated main cranking banks If that 10ga B+ supply to the helm fuse box does not connect to the existing battery's B+, then it likely terminates to starter main post or somewhere else around then engine. You would have to either relocate this, or just run a new supply from the house side of the switch. If the key switch's B+ input comes from that fuse box, you also need to pull that off and draw from the main side of the switch.

In simple terms, the voltage sensing relay isolator, allows charge voltage to pass from the main bank to the house bank, when there is charge. And, prevent loads from each bank to draw from the other bank, when there is no charge. So the introduction of the device, changes little to nothing, regarding the wiring of the rest of the system as it pertains to the style of switch you have. If you leave out the main battery switch, you lose 2 important functions. 1) the ability to separate the loads from the batteries, when the boat is not in use. 2) you do not have means to use the house bank for emergency starting. IMO, the switch, and the proper one for the design, is the backbone of the battery system. I know the battery dr unit states it has a manual combine mode for emergency parallel starting. As I stated, I would not do this. That unit has a 150A peak. A V8 starter can easily peak north of 250A, then level off around 200A once the engine is up to starter speed.

You do not want to have starter draw going through the VSR isolator. Your switch is quite different then the one in ^^^ this illustration. Your switch is designed, and intended, to have all loads go through it, with a couple of exceptions, depending on the boat. Despite the switch difference, as you can see, all loads are going through the switch on the above illustration. Based on this and the rest of this post, you have the least ideal switch, to do this.

Not judging the art work in any way, simply the electrical flow and termination points. In your drawing, nothing will work, boat wont start but with the switch on only one position. Everything will be drawing off the AUX battery. That schematic from Battery Dr does not include a dual bank switch, so its not a good representation of what are wanting to accomplish.

Have you contacted your "battery Dr iso" dealer for assistance? Most of your diagram is is incorrect.

The boats existing wiring is (should be anyway) ample for the original 55A alternator and starter. So adding more loads to the battery, will not change that. As noted earlier, you would not be connecting these pumps to any existing boat wiring, so its a moot point. In reality, those pumps are going to draw about 20A-25A each, once flowing. The 30A should be their peak draw, which is typically only seen at startup. this is the better value to use to build the electrical off of. So thats 50A with both pumps running. A 1000# sac is 120 gal, So @ 30 gpm, you are looking at 4 minutes. Run both at same time, theres your 50A to fill two 1K sacs. With two group-27 batteries together, thats about 200 Ah. 50A for 4 minutes is a walk in the park for that battery bank. The alternator will recover them after a few surf sets and will not burn up.

KISS. This ^^^ over complicates it. Ballast pump failures or very rare. Id upgrade my bilge pump. Then if a pump did fail and the sac was full, just pop a fill hose off and let the sac drain to the bilge. Or keep an over the side pump kit so you could fill/drain a sac if a pump went out, until you get it repaired. If I understand your previous post correctly, you have 3 battery banks? Engine, audio and ballast? If so, id rethink. id prefer a larger "house" bank of two group-27, rather then two banks of a group-27 each. Again, less complicated. I do not see the alternator being a liability, as long as you have a sufficient charger once the boat is back home, to recharge the house bank. So was it the pumps they said not to go with, or your wiring configuration?

Electrical will not be an issue with a dual battery setup and a proper foundation to support the pumps. In short, I do not think you would want to connect 3 new pumps to the boat's existing fuse box. You will need to source a 1.5 to 1" or 1-1/8". Given this capacity, id consider a Y fitting and supply 2 sac fittings rather then just step the hose size down for one fitting.

I do not know if that tower has a removable middle section, but if it does, you will have cabling to contend to. Id expect the wht 260 and speaker wire likely.

Are those true hours from the ECM? Thats only 10 hours a year. I idle more then that in a season changing riders and filling/dumping ballast. I would not even consider compression on anything less then 1000 hrs on a used but maintained boat. This would looking for normal wear. However, a not so well taken care of boat can have a low hole at even low hours. Buying used, if it makes you more comfortable, have the tests done.

Its likely a 3/4" outlet. Id go at least a 750 or 1000 gph as long as its the same outlet size. Good chance its also an external float. If so, id upgrade to a internal float/water sensor 3-wire pump.

Technically, no. Boats do not use OBD2, but they do have on board diagnostics. An 07 could be a MEFI-5 system. You would need the setup that covers the proper gen system.

Thats a $1000 package that normally retails for $790 for amp and speakers. Id want to know what im getting install incidental wise, for the difference. "automotive" amp install kits used in boats, typically leave you with unusable pieces and sourcing others.

Does not matter how many flees you can stack on the head of a pin, when the plan is to toss the pin anyway. As to 1st ??? No benefit performance or sound quality advantage to having all the components from the same brand. Brands? Kicker, Wet Sounds, Clarion, Fusion, Aquatic AV, Rockford, JL Audio all make solid units with various features. Some are traditional single DIM, some have over sized faces. Some are gauge style and others are more square or rectangle. #2 A 4 chnl will easily drive 3 pair of in-boats. Perfect for one bow pair and 2 main cabin pair. A 6 chnl will also work great. For future additions, I would suggest a 5 or 6 chnl amp and consider a mild woofer to round out the in-boats sound quality. With amplified in-boats and the addition of a 3rd pair, the added bass will be great. As to future tower speakers, I would suggest a separate amp for them, once the time comes. There are some 6 and 8 chnl amps that can work to power in-boats and towers, but you really need to have a very specific plan in place. So if you are not sure about what those future tower speakers will be, leave that for then. #3 proper in-boat? Once that fits, fits the budget, you like the look and sound of. Go with a quality built marine speaker. #4 yes #5 Depending on use, there is certainly going to be an increase in amperage draw. If the boat does not already have a dual bank setup, id factor that into the plan.

Yes. Taking a closer look at your pic and see some areas that could be addressed. 1) the ACR is wired to the batteries, so its still going to come into play when the charger is in use. I know, if you go to BlueSeas site, this is how the have their schematic. 2) The amps' B+ are wired direct to the batteries, bypassing the switch. And the house bank is not wired to the switch either. Should be a main engine cable and 2 battery cables on the switch, plus the house loads' outputs. I.E. amps