Wylie_Tunes

Sure, theres always a place for a coaxial. Perfect for surf and party cove listening. An HLCD certainly has the potential to be louder then a coaxial. I dont believe the drivers in the Warrior pods are new. They should be the same Rev-10 sold on the consumer level, just in a custom OEM pod for Centurion. The 8" down fire coaxial is likely the Revo-8 in-boat.

Static would not a speaker issue, but simply what the speaker is reproducing. The Wet Sounds Warrior tower system is basically 2 pair of Rev-10 HLCD for the rider. For the passengers, there is a downfiring 8" coaxial in each tower pod. The Roswell Coverfire looks to be two rear firing R1 8" coaxials, with one angled down a little toward the cabin, then a R1 6.5" coaxial firing forward, p/pod. From a riders perspective; Surface area alone, the Warrior tower system is going to be the louder of the two systems, as well as likely produce more mid-bass. Now, a coaxial can be more pleasing close up, in terms of sound quality, to some, then an HLCD. But the larger mid-bass driver of a Rev-10 does really well to add balance, IMO. For passengers, I do not see the forward firing 6.5 in the cover fire being very effective. The 8" in the Warrior is going to contribute quite a lot to the captain and copilot/observer seating, bow seating and those directly under the pods.

Heres the deal, its mostly about surface area. Two 12's in a ported enclosure is nearly 4X the surface area as a single 12 in a sealer or free-air (infinite-baffle) setup. So you would definitely experience a reduction in overall bass output.

Use a quality, well built marine woofer and its a none issue. If standing water rose to that level, your boat is going down.

Gain will not add any bass to the system, but will lead to blow drivers. With that said, I would not suggest increasing bass to any tower pod. This will surly lead to over excursion, resulting in a mechanically damaged driver. A tower pod can only effectively reproduce mid-bass to a point.

I have not gutted a Roswell/Centurion downfire pod, so just a hunch here. I would fully expect those drivers to have a proprietary basket size, shape and or bolt pattern. So this would limit you to the manufacturer. 5 seasons is not a lot of time, so I would also want to revisit the amp settings, to make sure theres not a reason for a blown speaker that would repeat itself. The woofer is a 10" IIRC. Its in a small sealed enclosure I believe. There are better build woofers, but id want to know what my enclosure volume was first, unless the plan is to scrap the entire setup and start fresh. At that point, move up to a 12. Even consider a ported enclosure. Need to take the available amp wattage into account also. Want to get the most out of the amp, but at a safe impedance. Here again, buzzing is not normal from a woofer, so id want to try and isolate the noise and make sure its not going to be there with the new woofer.

If the OP has a blue sea dual circuit plus switch and ACR, any diagram from Perko will get you in trouble. Need to clarify the switch type.

Amplifier output is dependent upon voltage, so engine off v's engine on can make a difference. Gain level also. A larger factor is a difference in voltage at each amp. Its very rare to have the DC voltage input, bleed into the AC voltage audio output due to cable routing.

I dont recall which media source unit the 2020 has, but good bet its the only thing all of those modes have in common.

Different gauge is not an issue, but incorrect gauge, as in too small, can cause issue. Have you checked voltage at all the audio components, and compared them? I do suspect something wrong with the amp, if the noise is present with no audio cables connected to the amp inputs. Take a short RCA and connect both ends to any and all RCA inputs on the amp. This basically shorts the inputs, preventing noise from entering. If noise is present and the gains are not excessive, this pretty much points to the amp.

Try starting with a different phone.

Most any unit with USB, should be compatible with the apple protocol with a lightening x USB cable.

A woofer change will not address this, as the current enclosure is the biggest factor in how the woofer sounds. You would need to change the enclosure volume. If the woofer is whats making all the unwanted noise, then you need to first determine if any external factor was the root case, before installing a new woofer.

It can. In not a fan of point a woofer up. Many woofers have whats called a dust cap in the cent of the cone. Its where the cone connects to the motor structure and they glue a cap over that point. With the woofer up, if water collects in the woofer, it will find its way into the motor after awhile. If you have a ported enclosure, this is an entry point for water to also collect and stay in the enclosure. If you can spare another 3" of height, consider inverting the enclosure and make it a down-fire by making a couple of risers.

Alternators are typically wired to the starter's main post, as its the shortest, most direct route.