Wylie_Tunes

I see no reason why you could not close the hole up in a permanent fashion. There is nothing in that void of the bilge that is serviceable. On the flip side, once the enclosure and facade are in place, you will never no it one way or the other. So nothing wrong with leaving the cut out as is.

Cut away

You must connect the new battery to the ground circuit, or its not part of the loop, and the alternator will never charge it. That 6ga ground is supply from the battery for the helm, not a ground to the battery. Sounds like they tossed the house bank ground cable. If everything is wired correctly, nothing will draw from the main cranking bank when engine is off, so audio should never run the main down. Get in boat, turn to on, leave boat, turn to off.

Oh, ok, so the switch and VSR are already installed, but the 2nd battery was removed. I dealt with this same scenario last month, just older boat. lets presume that everything on the back of the switch is correct. In this case, you just need to figure out witch B+ cable is connect to the house side of the switch and which is connected to the main cranking side. Then move the appropriate cable to the new battery.

Much more involved then this. No loads, but the auto bilge, are wired battery direct, so everything goes through the switch. You will need to determine which loads, currently on the existing battery B+, are house and which are for making the boat go. Then you will wire them to the appropriate terminals on the switch. Without the new bank connected to the existing bank, it will not be part of the electrical loop. Battery will quickly go dead.

Dont bother with the end. Disconnect the wire from the switch output and plug up your own wire/terminal.

Given its been 13 months since this thread was last active, id talk with my dealer regarding what Supreme has as a resolution. New tune, updated amp(s) maybe, you never know.

4x4 if you are going to use it for launching/retrieving boat.

Lots have and many are current owners. The owners forum and FB page have tons of info, opinions and setup tips.

Z3 only if its a 2016 TAPS-3 or newer. great boat, but the pre-TAPS-3 surf wave never lifted my skirt. Not bad, just got WAY better with TAPS-3.

.7 GPM, as in less then 1, difference between the Jabsco Puppy and Johnson Ultra. They are universally interchangeable and even use the same orange impeller.

The hurdle is that clarion did those rectangle remotes for a few OEM applications and they are all fit into the helm. This really limits the options without doing something custom.

Find the remote's round connector and see if its has 6 or 8 pins. I think it should be an 8 pin connector. In that case, I think any of the current clarions units will work. I can recall if the 2014's had a standard DIN head or a black box style. If its a BB, look at the CMS4. The CMS5 is a killer head unit, but its slow to respond to the remotes unless Clarion finally addressed it with a firmware change.

The get bigger bags, or bag, so you wont need that 370 in a separate sac.

Getting the sac to fill, is the easy part, but will be about 2x the current fill time. Draining is the issue when the supplementary sac is on the same plane as the hard tank.Aerator pumps push water, they do not suck water. The issue is getting the water to exit the sac into the hard tank. Even a short direct link between the sac and tank, will leave water in the sac. If you route the tank vent to the sac as make it a sac fill line, the tank will likely tin-can on itself when draining. The hard tank needs to freely vent. Best advice, remove the tank and replace with a larger sac.