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Wylie_Tunes last won the day on March 1 2019

Wylie_Tunes had the most liked content!

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About Wylie_Tunes

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard
  • Birthday 12/04/1968

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  • ICQ

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake Wylie NC/SC
  • Interests
    All things outdoors

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  • Boat
    Not a Centurion
  1. You can use a multi meter and measure the woofer's coil and circuit at the amp. If you know which model woofer it is, you can look the specs up to see what its impedance is. Other wise, id bet its either a 4 ohm or 2 ohm woofer. So the complete circuit would be close to that by a couple tenths of an ohm. Say 3.8 to 4.2 would be normal for a 4 ohm and 1.8 to 2.2 for a 2 ohm. What you are looking for is the meter to be wildly off or showing OL.
  2. Battery voltage, battery voltage battery voltage. Got to start here. Whats the battery voltage at the batteries, then at the back of the head, then again with engine running. IIRC, the 2014 would the dual circuit plus switch and ACR. Where the batteries removed or disconnected for winter layup? If so, gut says the ground for the ACR was left off or the ground link between the banks was left off.
  3. Budget stereo build need help matching amp

    To truly get the most, the Kicker KXMA1200.2 would be the top choice. It will deliver up to 300W rms x 2 @ 4 ohm. This well above each pod's 150W RMS, but it equals a ton of head room. Your gains are going to be super low, so the amp runs real conservative, which yields better sound quality overall. While a bridged 4 chnl will typically give you more wattage p/$$$, these multi-driver pods are known to dip well below their rate 4 ohm nominal impedance. This can put some bridged 4 chnls into protect mode intermittently.
  4. At the least, I would separate the two batteries into a main cranking and house bank, with a dual bank battery switch. I would want a cranking on one side and deep-cycle on the other side. Then, depending on how much anchor play time you wanted, then you can calculate the need for additional battery amp hours.
  5. It definitely sounds like the amp is driving the tower pods on chnls 1 & 2 i.e. AMP-1. It then sounds like chnls 3 & 4 i.e. AMP-2 is power some in-boats but maybe not all. This leaves 1 or 2 pair still on the head unit. The best improvement you can do is to install a new (2nd) and dedicated to the tower speakers. Then, rewire the existing amp and in-boats so ALL in-boats are driven by the existing amp. based on the online specs, those speakers have a 3 ohm nominal impedance, you would be best to go with a 2 chnl amp. id want to be in the 150W to 200W rms @ 4 ohm range, which will = a little more to a 3 ohm speaker.
  6. Have you verified this, as it would be quite a feat for a single 4 channel amp to power a pair of tower speakers bridged, and then 3 pair of in-boats. id be willing to be the in-boats are wired to the head unit and the single 4 chnl is running the tower speakers. Easy to verify by disabling the amp, then any speakers left playing, are NOT powered by said amp. Id also suspect the amp is not setup and tuned correctly for bridge mode. An HLCD with 175 RMS should be more then audible at surf distance.
  7. A Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus switch and VSR will allow you to achieve: Zero non-critical loads connected direct to a battery isolation of the main and house bank while under load Charging of both banks while engine running One step ON and OFF Emergency starting. Dedicated house and dedicated main cranking banks If that 10ga B+ supply to the helm fuse box does not connect to the existing battery's B+, then it likely terminates to starter main post or somewhere else around then engine. You would have to either relocate this, or just run a new supply from the house side of the switch. If the key switch's B+ input comes from that fuse box, you also need to pull that off and draw from the main side of the switch.
  8. In simple terms, the voltage sensing relay isolator, allows charge voltage to pass from the main bank to the house bank, when there is charge. And, prevent loads from each bank to draw from the other bank, when there is no charge. So the introduction of the device, changes little to nothing, regarding the wiring of the rest of the system as it pertains to the style of switch you have. If you leave out the main battery switch, you lose 2 important functions. 1) the ability to separate the loads from the batteries, when the boat is not in use. 2) you do not have means to use the house bank for emergency starting. IMO, the switch, and the proper one for the design, is the backbone of the battery system. I know the battery dr unit states it has a manual combine mode for emergency parallel starting. As I stated, I would not do this. That unit has a 150A peak. A V8 starter can easily peak north of 250A, then level off around 200A once the engine is up to starter speed.
  9. You do not want to have starter draw going through the VSR isolator. Your switch is quite different then the one in ^^^ this illustration. Your switch is designed, and intended, to have all loads go through it, with a couple of exceptions, depending on the boat. Despite the switch difference, as you can see, all loads are going through the switch on the above illustration. Based on this and the rest of this post, you have the least ideal switch, to do this.
  10. Not judging the art work in any way, simply the electrical flow and termination points. In your drawing, nothing will work, boat wont start but with the switch on only one position. Everything will be drawing off the AUX battery. That schematic from Battery Dr does not include a dual bank switch, so its not a good representation of what are wanting to accomplish.
  11. Have you contacted your "battery Dr iso" dealer for assistance? Most of your diagram is is incorrect.
  12. The boats existing wiring is (should be anyway) ample for the original 55A alternator and starter. So adding more loads to the battery, will not change that. As noted earlier, you would not be connecting these pumps to any existing boat wiring, so its a moot point. In reality, those pumps are going to draw about 20A-25A each, once flowing. The 30A should be their peak draw, which is typically only seen at startup. this is the better value to use to build the electrical off of. So thats 50A with both pumps running. A 1000# sac is 120 gal, So @ 30 gpm, you are looking at 4 minutes. Run both at same time, theres your 50A to fill two 1K sacs. With two group-27 batteries together, thats about 200 Ah. 50A for 4 minutes is a walk in the park for that battery bank. The alternator will recover them after a few surf sets and will not burn up.
  13. KISS. This ^^^ over complicates it. Ballast pump failures or very rare. Id upgrade my bilge pump. Then if a pump did fail and the sac was full, just pop a fill hose off and let the sac drain to the bilge. Or keep an over the side pump kit so you could fill/drain a sac if a pump went out, until you get it repaired. If I understand your previous post correctly, you have 3 battery banks? Engine, audio and ballast? If so, id rethink. id prefer a larger "house" bank of two group-27, rather then two banks of a group-27 each. Again, less complicated. I do not see the alternator being a liability, as long as you have a sufficient charger once the boat is back home, to recharge the house bank. So was it the pumps they said not to go with, or your wiring configuration?
  14. Electrical will not be an issue with a dual battery setup and a proper foundation to support the pumps. In short, I do not think you would want to connect 3 new pumps to the boat's existing fuse box. You will need to source a 1.5 to 1" or 1-1/8". Given this capacity, id consider a Y fitting and supply 2 sac fittings rather then just step the hose size down for one fitting.
  15. I do not know if that tower has a removable middle section, but if it does, you will have cabling to contend to. Id expect the wht 260 and speaker wire likely.

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