Wylie_Tunes

For surfing and party cove, id entertain the Icon-8 before the rev-8 just for the sound quality. Now, if you want max volume and have to go with an 8", then the Rav-8 is it. If hand height and bimini clearance are not an issue, then consider the Rev-10" For only a small price difference, the 10 can play louder and will yield deeper mid-bass.

LED rings are definitely a great way to resolve the depth issue and add some bling to the boat at the same time. More work though running the LED wiring. Simple HDPE rings will also work. Also note, that on the XS-650, the rubber boot can be removed from the magnet if fitment is close.

Yes, the knob alone is $40, but you need three 2-chnl RCA cables to make it work. If these end up being long runs, quality RCAs are not cheap. if you use the Roswell 5m 6-chnl RCA, you are creeping into the $100 range. The other down side is, you are taking a single pre-amp head unit output, and cutting it in half through the switch out to each amp. Depending on the system amp goals, this can reduce output or result in high gain levels at the amps. Adding a line driver absolutely addresses this, but add another $100. At this point, you are now getting close to the price range of a WS-420SQ. Now you get master volume and a dual 4-band EQ PLUS sub level volume.

As long as all the speakers are powered by external amps, then head unit FADE can be used as crude zone control. The next better options is the Roswell dual-zone knob. Best option, A Wet Sounds zone controller. You could go with the 3 zone WS-420SQ or the 4 zone WS-220BT.

IIRC< a 2014 was outfitted with the original Wet Sounds Syn series, so was 2015 the move to the roswell RMA600.4?

@Eric Borghoff That boat should be able to accommodate a 12" under the helm with really no more work then installing a 10". Thats about 30% more surface area which = more output as well as deeper bass extension. @h20king Im not super familiar with the centurion options, could a 2015 come without the in-boat amp? 3 pair of in-boats is standard, correct. If no in-boat amp, I agree that needs to be done as well. A good woofer setup can easily overrun in-boats on head unit wattage. Dollar for dollar, id put the Syn-DX4 on the in-boats and take the nearly 45% more wattage potential of a bridged SDX-6.

Wet Sounds SDX-2 is a perfect option. But if adding in a woofer also, Id go with the SDX-6 for a pair tower speakers and up to 600W rms for a 4 ohm woofer. Lots of good woofers. The best one is the one thats in the proper enclosure, powered correctly. From a construction point of view, steer clear of woofers with a paper based cone. Usually you will see terms like hybrid, laminated or cellulose in the description. Not ideal for a marine woofer. A rubber surround is better then foam. Aluminum basket is better then stamped steel. Enclosure magnet is better then exposed. Brand wise, im partial to Wet Sounds and Kicker. Installation is not plug-n-play. Purchase through a knowledgeable and reputable source that can help before, during and after the sale. There are a number of details that can make or break a system. Having that assistance is important.

Attitude plate

You do need to stop the water at the point of entering. So it does sound like the windshield would need to come off. Rather then permanent 5200, id uses a non-permanent like the 4200, 4000 or something from the Lifeseal line. These will offer all the sealing properties you need, without bonding anything to the gel coat. I would remove the power cables to the amp, remove it, open it up and blow it out with compressed air. Even a marine amp can be damaged by direct water intrusion.

@Supreme s238 St. Croix If your tower speaker perches are like above, you will need to get the speakers and adapters from the same manufacturer. This insures that the pod mounting surface of the adapter, matches the pod. For a surf/party cove speaker, id suggest an 8" coaxial. For wake range projection, id suggest at least an 8" HLCD. For best of both worlds, id suggest a 10" or 11" HLCD.

Yes, the ECM stores true engine hours. You can also prove owner correct or not. Play stereo and what the hour meter.

If you have a marine on-board 2-bank charger, it should be connected to each battery directly, and the main battery switch should be OFF when charger is in use.

With sprinkler valves AND an impeller fill pump, no check valve should be needed there. As to the drain. Are you looking to curb passive draining? This is hard to stop with an aerator drain pump. We have had some success with a check valve here, in slowing to a trickle, so passive flow in the drain line. The vent line is another area we see a lot of passive draining.

Try leaving the B+ to that suspect light and disconnect/reconnect the B+ to the other tp sync it to the other one and then turn them off and see.

Sounds like they are out of sync. Pick one and disconnect and reconnect the light's B+ until it cycles through to the same mode as the other.