Wylie_Tunes

The downfires are mainly for the interior passengers. The 8" rear firing speakers are driven by a separate amp. Supposedly, the down-fire have a volume control so they can be turned down so you can listen to just the rear firing speakers and tune them.

Another point about the octane levels. The EPA regulates a certain level of additives to be put in all refined gasoline. Once its pulled form the pipeline by a distributor, a in exxon or shell for example, they can and may add soem of their own crap to it. They may add more/different to the higher octanes just to make it different and more expensive. Bottom line, there is nothing to regulate that ALL "premium" pumped into your tank, is all the same. So no, premium cannot be a blanket substitute for a marine additive. I use the blue in the shop for boats as well as use it in ever can of gas for my lawn equipment. I dont think its needed every fill up for an engine thats used regularly, but it will not hurt to use it. I strongly recommend it for layup.

In my opinion, the 10FA sounds better when properly done infinite-baffle. A small enclosure makes it a little "peaky".

Since both woofers are free-air (JL just uses the term infinite-baffle) and both 10", their output with the given 175W rms will be nearly identical. Just need to make sure that SW-10FA is also 4 ohm. Free woofer for the win!

easier to not fill one 100%, then to put more in a smaller sac.

My guess is alternator died. check and charge the batteries then you will need to start it up and test the alternator output.

If the touch screen has an underwater turn-on output trigger, ANY underwater LED can be turned on/off. Its just a matter of knowing what you are doing.

I think its retired.

The Seablaze X is edges out the LF-9 in brightness. With that said, here is a 3rd, if you have not already considered. Check out the Liquid Lumens Skinny Dip. Two lights and controller is close in cost to a pair of SB-X. And LL is local to you in UT.

First thing is to separate regular service and whats needed to get the boat ready for the first run of the season. IMO, I prefer my boats to be turn-key in the spring. Make sure the battery(s) is charged, fire it up on the fake-a-lake prior to heading to the ramp, im good to go. Things like plugs wires rotor fall into the maintenance category. May be time to do them, but its not an annual thing unless you put that many hours on the engine. Now, what you need to do this spring, has a lot to do with what was or was not done in the fall. Lots of worthwhile debate on whether the impeller should be done fall or spring. I see the benefits of putting the impeller in fresh in spring, but I dont think it outweighs doing in the fall when im already working on the boat doing all the other items.

Nope. 1) with a bock full of water, most of the A/F will quickly find its way out of the exhaust before filling the block. 2) marine/RV antifreeze is meant to be used at 100%. Diluting quickly raises its freeze point. So what did make it into the block, will be diluted, leaving the system poorly protected. best method, drain the system of all water, then use A/F if needed.

Need to keep in mind that that shadow caster v's LL was between shadow caster's existing SC line and not including their new SRC and SCY lights. @InfinitySurf skinny dip blue are in-bound if you want to see them in person

@Jake707 No, there is no industry standard on with what devise and under what conditions and parameters are underwater lights to the measured. Way too many variables to be able to use brand A's lumens to brand B's lumens. Only way to make the comparison is to have a 3rd party measure them all using the same meter, same method and with a controlled supply voltage. This was done by Grant West and posted somewhere. Sadly, its outdated as there are a number of new players both with cheap and quality lights. Amp draw is not perfect or absolute, but its the best we have as an end consumer.

@DjOM21 Since we cannot use advertised lumens to compare between manufacturers, we have to toss it out and use something else. At present, current draw in 12V amps, is the best method. The light you linked puts its current between 2.25 and 2.75 amps. The LF 9 is sated at 2.7A. That should put their brightness pretty close. Flood v's spot can also play into how lights look in the water compared to others.

May want to clarify which attwoods, as they offer at least 4 models. The lowest price point models are disappointing. Id pass the 6 and right for the 12. But then its width may come into play on some transoms.