Wylie_Tunes

There is no one-size-fits-all fuse (or circuit breaker) answer. The capacity of any circuit protection is needs to match the expected load but not exceed the capacity of the cable gauge and its length. I cant say on an 01, but on an 04 or 05, I found the helm BUS supply was terminated to the main starter post.

M650 of the new M6-650? These are worlds apart in sound quality and the M650 has been discontinued for about 3 seasons now. If FADE is desired, a 2 chnl amp will typically get you more wattage for less $$$. Or if there is a 3rd pair of speakers in the future, then go with a 4 chnl. JL has always built a solid product, so cant go wrong with them. However, Rockford is not a bad line either. My go-tos are Kicker and Wet Sounds. However, it may come down to waiting for inventory to come back in or taking whats available. Ive been using some Fusion Signature series and Roswell R1 amps lately. Seem solid. Traditional single DIN........Clarion M508.

The flow capacity of a 1" thru-hull better matches that of a single King. Id install a 2nd 1" thru-hull.

That eliminates everything upstream then.

Boat may have DSP amps that use a loaded tune, so no consumer level adjustments. Or the adjustments could be behind a protective cover, so not be exposed to the elements. Scratchy static is typically not excessive gain, where as a slight hiss is common to over gain. With the RCA disconnected from the amp, is the noise gone or still there?

This is true when you only look at the pumps as an individual component. However, once you factor in the other needed components, such as those check valves that cost as much as an aerator pump, the "system" as a whole, theres not a huge cost difference, considering the benefits. This is the not-so-user-friendly aspects of a budget system, I was describing. The complexity of a budget system usually leads to poor functionality as well. Its all about flow volume demand compared to the what the manifold will handle. How many thru-hulls is irrelevant. At the end of the day, its about what you are willing to trade off. DPDT is double pole, double throw switch. Its the type needed to reverse the polarity (direction) of the impeller pump. They make DPDT switchs that are the exact same size/style of the existing, just has more wire terminals. Would require additional wiring though, that part is not plug n ply. My guess. Because the next ballast level up had rear hard tanks using the same pump to fill, but with the addition of 3 sprinkler valves and 2 more switches. Makes it easy for them expand the system, rather then have a new design. With that said, forget you ever heard the words "sprinkler valves". Dont go there, LOL. With an impeller pump, length of hose makes little difference regarding filling or draining.

Here is what I would do. Change the switch to a DPDT and dedicate the existing impeller pump to the center tank. Then install a new thru-hull to supply 2 new reversible impeller pumps, one for each new rear locker sac. May be more then what you were looking to do, but its a simple, effective and user friendly.

What type of pump(s) is there now to fill and drain the factory belly tank? Budget = over complicated, leading to a very not so user friendly system.

@Dreamer Yes, pod displacement does impact mid-bass. So the larger pod of the 8.8 will make a noticeable difference in a static environment. However, as the distance from the pod increases and there are more sounds to compete with, this difference may diminish a little. Four 8" Icon or 8.8 would equivalent to the four 8" R1 in the coverfire in terms of service area and power handling. The advantage could be having the ability to space the 4 pods, aiming of the pods, and choosing your own amp power v's the factory amp option.

Sure, theres always a place for a coaxial. Perfect for surf and party cove listening. An HLCD certainly has the potential to be louder then a coaxial. I dont believe the drivers in the Warrior pods are new. They should be the same Rev-10 sold on the consumer level, just in a custom OEM pod for Centurion. The 8" down fire coaxial is likely the Revo-8 in-boat.

Static would not a speaker issue, but simply what the speaker is reproducing. The Wet Sounds Warrior tower system is basically 2 pair of Rev-10 HLCD for the rider. For the passengers, there is a downfiring 8" coaxial in each tower pod. The Roswell Coverfire looks to be two rear firing R1 8" coaxials, with one angled down a little toward the cabin, then a R1 6.5" coaxial firing forward, p/pod. From a riders perspective; Surface area alone, the Warrior tower system is going to be the louder of the two systems, as well as likely produce more mid-bass. Now, a coaxial can be more pleasing close up, in terms of sound quality, to some, then an HLCD. But the larger mid-bass driver of a Rev-10 does really well to add balance, IMO. For passengers, I do not see the forward firing 6.5 in the cover fire being very effective. The 8" in the Warrior is going to contribute quite a lot to the captain and copilot/observer seating, bow seating and those directly under the pods.

Heres the deal, its mostly about surface area. Two 12's in a ported enclosure is nearly 4X the surface area as a single 12 in a sealer or free-air (infinite-baffle) setup. So you would definitely experience a reduction in overall bass output.

Use a quality, well built marine woofer and its a none issue. If standing water rose to that level, your boat is going down.

Gain will not add any bass to the system, but will lead to blow drivers. With that said, I would not suggest increasing bass to any tower pod. This will surly lead to over excursion, resulting in a mechanically damaged driver. A tower pod can only effectively reproduce mid-bass to a point.

I have not gutted a Roswell/Centurion downfire pod, so just a hunch here. I would fully expect those drivers to have a proprietary basket size, shape and or bolt pattern. So this would limit you to the manufacturer. 5 seasons is not a lot of time, so I would also want to revisit the amp settings, to make sure theres not a reason for a blown speaker that would repeat itself. The woofer is a 10" IIRC. Its in a small sealed enclosure I believe. There are better build woofers, but id want to know what my enclosure volume was first, unless the plan is to scrap the entire setup and start fresh. At that point, move up to a 12. Even consider a ported enclosure. Need to take the available amp wattage into account also. Want to get the most out of the amp, but at a safe impedance. Here again, buzzing is not normal from a woofer, so id want to try and isolate the noise and make sure its not going to be there with the new woofer.