Wylie_Tunes

The boats existing wiring is (should be anyway) ample for the original 55A alternator and starter. So adding more loads to the battery, will not change that. As noted earlier, you would not be connecting these pumps to any existing boat wiring, so its a moot point. In reality, those pumps are going to draw about 20A-25A each, once flowing. The 30A should be their peak draw, which is typically only seen at startup. this is the better value to use to build the electrical off of. So thats 50A with both pumps running. A 1000# sac is 120 gal, So @ 30 gpm, you are looking at 4 minutes. Run both at same time, theres your 50A to fill two 1K sacs. With two group-27 batteries together, thats about 200 Ah. 50A for 4 minutes is a walk in the park for that battery bank. The alternator will recover them after a few surf sets and will not burn up.

KISS. This ^^^ over complicates it. Ballast pump failures or very rare. Id upgrade my bilge pump. Then if a pump did fail and the sac was full, just pop a fill hose off and let the sac drain to the bilge. Or keep an over the side pump kit so you could fill/drain a sac if a pump went out, until you get it repaired. If I understand your previous post correctly, you have 3 battery banks? Engine, audio and ballast? If so, id rethink. id prefer a larger "house" bank of two group-27, rather then two banks of a group-27 each. Again, less complicated. I do not see the alternator being a liability, as long as you have a sufficient charger once the boat is back home, to recharge the house bank. So was it the pumps they said not to go with, or your wiring configuration?

Electrical will not be an issue with a dual battery setup and a proper foundation to support the pumps. In short, I do not think you would want to connect 3 new pumps to the boat's existing fuse box. You will need to source a 1.5 to 1" or 1-1/8". Given this capacity, id consider a Y fitting and supply 2 sac fittings rather then just step the hose size down for one fitting.

I do not know if that tower has a removable middle section, but if it does, you will have cabling to contend to. Id expect the wht 260 and speaker wire likely.

Are those true hours from the ECM? Thats only 10 hours a year. I idle more then that in a season changing riders and filling/dumping ballast. I would not even consider compression on anything less then 1000 hrs on a used but maintained boat. This would looking for normal wear. However, a not so well taken care of boat can have a low hole at even low hours. Buying used, if it makes you more comfortable, have the tests done.

Its likely a 3/4" outlet. Id go at least a 750 or 1000 gph as long as its the same outlet size. Good chance its also an external float. If so, id upgrade to a internal float/water sensor 3-wire pump.

Technically, no. Boats do not use OBD2, but they do have on board diagnostics. An 07 could be a MEFI-5 system. You would need the setup that covers the proper gen system.

Thats a $1000 package that normally retails for $790 for amp and speakers. Id want to know what im getting install incidental wise, for the difference. "automotive" amp install kits used in boats, typically leave you with unusable pieces and sourcing others.

Does not matter how many flees you can stack on the head of a pin, when the plan is to toss the pin anyway. As to 1st ??? No benefit performance or sound quality advantage to having all the components from the same brand. Brands? Kicker, Wet Sounds, Clarion, Fusion, Aquatic AV, Rockford, JL Audio all make solid units with various features. Some are traditional single DIM, some have over sized faces. Some are gauge style and others are more square or rectangle. #2 A 4 chnl will easily drive 3 pair of in-boats. Perfect for one bow pair and 2 main cabin pair. A 6 chnl will also work great. For future additions, I would suggest a 5 or 6 chnl amp and consider a mild woofer to round out the in-boats sound quality. With amplified in-boats and the addition of a 3rd pair, the added bass will be great. As to future tower speakers, I would suggest a separate amp for them, once the time comes. There are some 6 and 8 chnl amps that can work to power in-boats and towers, but you really need to have a very specific plan in place. So if you are not sure about what those future tower speakers will be, leave that for then. #3 proper in-boat? Once that fits, fits the budget, you like the look and sound of. Go with a quality built marine speaker. #4 yes #5 Depending on use, there is certainly going to be an increase in amperage draw. If the boat does not already have a dual bank setup, id factor that into the plan.

Yes. Taking a closer look at your pic and see some areas that could be addressed. 1) the ACR is wired to the batteries, so its still going to come into play when the charger is in use. I know, if you go to BlueSeas site, this is how the have their schematic. 2) The amps' B+ are wired direct to the batteries, bypassing the switch. And the house bank is not wired to the switch either. Should be a main engine cable and 2 battery cables on the switch, plus the house loads' outputs. I.E. amps

The rest of the switch use is correct, but let me make a suggestion here. I would look at getting a marine on-board dual bank smart charger or a 2nd charger for the house bank. Main reason being, you have a dedicated house and dedicated cranking bank. Each of these backs is going to be discharged at a different rate and to a different point. Basically, the main cranking will likely never see a deep discharge, while the two house banks in parallel stand to see frequent and deep discharges. These banks are going to require a different rate of charge from each other. The charger cannot do this through the VSR from the main cranking side. With a dual bank or 2 charges, you can turn the switch off. Providing the ACR is wired correctly, it will be taken out of play, allowing each bank to be charged based on its needs.

Its all about the ball bearings. Tower prop.

Other then swapping one amp feed cable to another output on the distribution block, did the cut back the insulation to expose fresh wire? Was it the main trunk or the branch cable for the suspect amp? Are the cables of adequate for the loads? A condition like that usually points to a poor connection, causing the arcing, resulting in the heat. Cable gauge and secure connections need to be addressed first. I would want to measure voltage right at the amp with amp powered up and buzzing. Next, swap the woofer amp RCA with another amp thats not making any unwanted noise. This isolates the noise down to its source.

Yes! I would not spend 1 $$$ or minute trying to fix a system with sprinkler valves. Slow and problematic.

Fill and drain, I would go with a pump that accommodates 1" hose, and use 1" hose. Vents, 3/4 works just fine.