Wylie_Tunes

@centuryride, Its best to drain the water from the engine system prior to the introduction of antifreeze. If not, you run the risk of no to highly diluted AF in the system. Marine RV antifreeze is best when used at 100%. With that said, AF is not actually needed, if the system is just simply drained of water, for freeze protection. No water.............nothing to freeze!. Your fake a lake issue sounds like a poor seal and air leak. May be too late now to investigate further/confirm. So when you next launch the boat in the lake, pay close attention to the engine temp upon startup, just incase its not a fake a lake air leak issue.

Something like the Wet Sounds WS-220BT would allow for mechanical master volume and 4 zone independent volume control.

This REALLY begs the question, if the supreme media has no inputs, then to what "input" is the BT-RS supplying a signal into? The BT-RS HAS to connect to an input. if its not an input to the main media unit, then it has to be the inputs to the amp(s). It would not be feasible, or advisable, to splice into the amps' pre-amp signal cables. It would bad enough with just one amp. Multiple amps would be a scary mess of cables with all the RCA Y cabled and gender-bender adapters needed.

I do not believe your phone can stream to 2 sources simultaneously. Also, if the Supreme's media unit is in BT mode, it will ignore all other modes and inputs, and only play what it is receiving through its integrated BT.

This is a little contradictive. if the main Supreme media is in BT mode, then any music sent over from the BT-RS, would not play. here is why. The proper way to have the BT-RS connected to the system, would be to have it plugged into the main unit's AUX-In, which is what you have been looking for. You may not have found it, because its already occupied by the BT-RS. So, check to make sure you phone is actually connected to the BT-RS and not whatever the Supreme's media unit is called. If the BT-RS IS connected correctly, then the only way for it to play music, would be for the Supreme's unit to be in AUX mode.

The volume issue is an Apple issue. Its common with iphones and MANY other media units. As expected. The BT-RS is a bluetooth receiver, not a transmitter. It is to connect your phone to via bluetooth, then send the audio to the media unit or amp(s) directly, depending on the setup. Maybe 3rd time will be the charm. If you answer these questions, I might be able to help further answer your questions regarding an AUX-IN on the Supreme media unit.

Does "device" = the BT-RS? When you connect the iphone to the BT-RS, doea music play? If so, what mode is the main head unit in? Tuner, AUX, USB, SAT?

Is that the BT-RS? If so, it it between the head unit and amps, or is it your BT receiver into the head unit? Is your BT phone source an IPhone?

You need to move away from speculation and deal in absolutes. Did you place a meter across the amp's main power cable terminals and measure battery voltage? If so, then you ruled out a ground cable as well. Voltage more then .5V less then battery voltage, could be an issue. You need to then determine if the drop is happening on the B+ or B- cable. Next, did you measure for voltage on the small turn-on terminal and power cable ground? Did the shop test the amp for output on all chnls, or just that it powered up? This kind of leaves you hanging.

1) yes 2) How many wires come off the pump? Some have an internal float or water sensor. So if it is an auto-bilge pump, it will have 3 wires. If its only got 2 wires, upgrade it to a 3 wire pump. Only requires a fused wire direct from the battery B+

Just a shot here. i just worked on a 2020 Supreme that had a stereo rocker. However, the stereo rocker only had 12V when the key switch was in ACC or RUN. Solved this real quick. Wired the stereo rocker's 12V input to a constant 12V under the helm. Took the key switch out of the loop. Stereo stays on regardless of key switch.

X-Mount is a direct bolt up mount to a 2.5" bolt spread with a wire hole in the center. The full TC3-S swivel is for a tube tower. The TC3-SXM is a direct mount like the X, but can swivel disconnect. Not sure which is best for the evolution.

Why not consider the 8" Icon-8 over the 8" Rev-8? Volume can be controlled by the volume dial, but the larger speaker will deliver better sound quality.

Just an FYI, boats do not use OBD2, so dont be looking for a port that looks like the one under the dash of your car. MEFI has a different connector, and it has changed over the years as well.

There is no one-size-fits-all fuse (or circuit breaker) answer. The capacity of any circuit protection is needs to match the expected load but not exceed the capacity of the cable gauge and its length. I cant say on an 01, but on an 04 or 05, I found the helm BUS supply was terminated to the main starter post.

M650 of the new M6-650? These are worlds apart in sound quality and the M650 has been discontinued for about 3 seasons now. If FADE is desired, a 2 chnl amp will typically get you more wattage for less $$$. Or if there is a 3rd pair of speakers in the future, then go with a 4 chnl. JL has always built a solid product, so cant go wrong with them. However, Rockford is not a bad line either. My go-tos are Kicker and Wet Sounds. However, it may come down to waiting for inventory to come back in or taking whats available. Ive been using some Fusion Signature series and Roswell R1 amps lately. Seem solid. Traditional single DIN........Clarion M508.

The flow capacity of a 1" thru-hull better matches that of a single King. Id install a 2nd 1" thru-hull.

That eliminates everything upstream then.

Boat may have DSP amps that use a loaded tune, so no consumer level adjustments. Or the adjustments could be behind a protective cover, so not be exposed to the elements. Scratchy static is typically not excessive gain, where as a slight hiss is common to over gain. With the RCA disconnected from the amp, is the noise gone or still there?

This is true when you only look at the pumps as an individual component. However, once you factor in the other needed components, such as those check valves that cost as much as an aerator pump, the "system" as a whole, theres not a huge cost difference, considering the benefits. This is the not-so-user-friendly aspects of a budget system, I was describing. The complexity of a budget system usually leads to poor functionality as well. Its all about flow volume demand compared to the what the manifold will handle. How many thru-hulls is irrelevant. At the end of the day, its about what you are willing to trade off. DPDT is double pole, double throw switch. Its the type needed to reverse the polarity (direction) of the impeller pump. They make DPDT switchs that are the exact same size/style of the existing, just has more wire terminals. Would require additional wiring though, that part is not plug n ply. My guess. Because the next ballast level up had rear hard tanks using the same pump to fill, but with the addition of 3 sprinkler valves and 2 more switches. Makes it easy for them expand the system, rather then have a new design. With that said, forget you ever heard the words "sprinkler valves". Dont go there, LOL. With an impeller pump, length of hose makes little difference regarding filling or draining.

Here is what I would do. Change the switch to a DPDT and dedicate the existing impeller pump to the center tank. Then install a new thru-hull to supply 2 new reversible impeller pumps, one for each new rear locker sac. May be more then what you were looking to do, but its a simple, effective and user friendly.

What type of pump(s) is there now to fill and drain the factory belly tank? Budget = over complicated, leading to a very not so user friendly system.

@Dreamer Yes, pod displacement does impact mid-bass. So the larger pod of the 8.8 will make a noticeable difference in a static environment. However, as the distance from the pod increases and there are more sounds to compete with, this difference may diminish a little. Four 8" Icon or 8.8 would equivalent to the four 8" R1 in the coverfire in terms of service area and power handling. The advantage could be having the ability to space the 4 pods, aiming of the pods, and choosing your own amp power v's the factory amp option.

Sure, theres always a place for a coaxial. Perfect for surf and party cove listening. An HLCD certainly has the potential to be louder then a coaxial. I dont believe the drivers in the Warrior pods are new. They should be the same Rev-10 sold on the consumer level, just in a custom OEM pod for Centurion. The 8" down fire coaxial is likely the Revo-8 in-boat.

Static would not a speaker issue, but simply what the speaker is reproducing. The Wet Sounds Warrior tower system is basically 2 pair of Rev-10 HLCD for the rider. For the passengers, there is a downfiring 8" coaxial in each tower pod. The Roswell Coverfire looks to be two rear firing R1 8" coaxials, with one angled down a little toward the cabin, then a R1 6.5" coaxial firing forward, p/pod. From a riders perspective; Surface area alone, the Warrior tower system is going to be the louder of the two systems, as well as likely produce more mid-bass. Now, a coaxial can be more pleasing close up, in terms of sound quality, to some, then an HLCD. But the larger mid-bass driver of a Rev-10 does really well to add balance, IMO. For passengers, I do not see the forward firing 6.5 in the cover fire being very effective. The 8" in the Warrior is going to contribute quite a lot to the captain and copilot/observer seating, bow seating and those directly under the pods.