InfinitySurf

Here you go...I did this to my boat - 2014 SV244

I use my boat thru Thanksgiving every year and occaionally also thru December (I also have the ZR409), and I looked into this a couple years ago. You can get those hole sizes in brass with a 3/8" barbed fitting on the end... see link for example ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-2-in-Barbed-Barb-x-MIP-Adapter-Fitting/1000504953 ) I then put a short length of tube over the barbed fitting with a petcock knob on it so with a quick twist you can open and drain. The reason I decided to not use this method is cause it reduces the diameter of the drain enough that I am worried one of the drains could potentially clog and I would not know it till I had an issue if the clog didn't allow a full drain. When I drain I will open the drains and then use a shop vac to pull out as much water as possible which also helps to ensure there are no blockages and it keeps water out of my bilge since I do this in my garage. Anyway, I decided to not risk doing it this way on my boat. I have seen other people do something similar, just made me too nervous. Another deciding factor for me was I built a new home in 2018 and I built a detached garage for my boat which includes heat/AC so if temps drop I can turn on the heat. There are likely other and better options out there that I did not see, just figured I would share what I tried. Good luck finding something that works for you

No, those blue plugs are only for the newer H5 & H6 engines. The thread and the size will not be right. If you are looking for replacement plugs, I think your best bet is too look at some of the NTP gas fittings that you can find at hardware stores/Lowes, etc. I think the 2 sizes on the ZR409 engine are 1/2" and 3/4". What is your goal, you looking for replacements or are you looking for something you can remove/re-install quicker without tools to make draining the water quicker? I would definitely not use plastic on this engine, the design on the H5/H6 is different which allows those blue plastic plugs to work.

Yes, you must drain all the water first before doing the AF. 5-6gal should be enough for it too start coming out of exhaust (it does on my ZR409 engine). Perhaps the 550 is different on that one. Under the throttle, there is a neutral button

The factory QS tabs for 2015/2016 did not work effectively, you can get a better wave by listing the boat. It isnt that the hulls would not produce an excellent wave using surf tabs.... it was a design flaw issue IMO. My un-scientific opinion is that the factory QS tabs were not shaped properly and are too small, so for them to do what they are supposed too (crab the hull), they have too be deployed so far that they degrade the wave. So I would say 100% by switching to the InfinityWave surf tabs you will be able to effectively use them. The cool thing is all you should have to do is remove the old factory tabs and just re-use the existing actuators & wiring. It is possible (likely even?) that you will have to re-mount the actuators to get the best position.... I did not have factory tabs so didnt have to worry about that. I imagine since these tabs are larger tho, they may not line up left/right to existing actuator placement... plus when you mount the actuator position you want the "at rest/retracted" position of the tabs to be as high as possible under swim platform, mine are 1/2" from swim platform brackets. If they are not as high as possible, it can interfere with your wave so its one of the most important steps. One thing I will say tho.... I am not sure how adjustable the factory tabs were (I think they have different placement positions and are adjustable tho?) , the reason this matters is you want surf tabs to deploy the LEAST possible to get your surf wave, on my SV244 hull that is approx 9% compared to the running surface of the hull. That gives me the largest surf style wave. If I want more of a skim style wave, I can deploy the tab a little further.... go too far and then of course the wave starts getting washy. InfinityWave may have some experience replacing just the factory tabs and keeping the rest of the factory equipment, you should call them and see what they say. Hopefully they can give you the exact answers.... and I am sure you can also get a better deal talking to them directly if you are only wanting the 2 surf tabs and none of the other items. BTW....Beautiful boat! I have seen you post pics on the FB group.

Do it once. These Phender Pros (or similar) will last and will look good. I have used them on several boats and they are very handy to have and it leaves your cleats for tying off. (FYI.... I was going to do this myself but instead I used a strong paracord rope on my fenders so I can hook them to my cleats and still have plenty of space to tie off. You can get under the gunwale in some places without too much issue, you just gotta plan it. Near the transom should be fairly easy due to the lockers..... also under observers seat should give you access as well as under driver helm if you remove the panel. Typically near the tower legs, above the cup holders is a cutout that will also allow you to get a hand in there under gunwale. Gunwale is where a lot of your wiring is run so be sure to investigate carefully before poking holes. Any gelcoat drilling, make sure you have the right tools and take your time, you want to always drill in reverse till you are fully thru the gelcoat (if you go in forward you can literally tear chunks of gelcoat out). Once hole is drilled, you want to carefully chamfer the edges of the holes so you do not get gelcoat spider cracking. Use thread locker so you can make them snug but dont have to torque down the thru-hull pieces since torquing something down along with no chamfer is what starts gelcoat spider cracks. https://www.amazon.com/Phender-Pro-8-Inch-Stainless-Release/dp/B07MVCXHP2/ref=asc_df_B07MVCXHP2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343985504572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12028216156765839506&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009906&hvtargid=pla-755874823430&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69358348055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343985504572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12028216156765839506&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009906&hvtargid=pla-755874823430

I think you are on the right track, the cap is a maintenance item that can get corrosion build up on it pretty quick and my guess is this is the mostly likely thing to be giving you issues. IAC is also a great suggestion. On the fuel side, I would definitely replace the fuel filters and when you check for water, check to see if your fuel pickup has a screen or filter on the end as sometimes they can get clogged enough to bog down the engine under load (rare but possible) If your replacing the plugs, you should check out the wires as well to make sure they dont have cracks. You can test their resistance using a meter.... another trick is too run the engine in the dark while gently moving the plug wires, if you see any arcing, they will be an issue. I assume you have checked the fluid levels in your trans & v-drive? From how you describe the surging, it sounds fuel related but low fluid levels can cause slipping and depending on your pitch/roll when boarding, if fluid is low that is the most likely time to have issues. It could also happen if any water got into the breather vents....so you also want to be sure the fluid is not milky looking. Some models have different procedures on how to check the fluids, some you check cold without screwing the dipstick back in (my PCM trans is like that).... others you have to shift the boat into forward, then reverse and then check it warm, etc. Probably time to replace the fluids anyway. I have a handheld vacuum canister that i use for the trans & v-drive so I can suck out the fluid, measure the amount removed and then put exactly the same amount back in (if I know the level is correct before replacing). I change out my trans fluid every layup so its an easy method to keep the level where I want it, most of these units take between 1.5 - 2quarts and usually you cannot get all the old fluid out. I started removing a quart of the transmission DEX III and putting in a new quart since I do it frequently. My v-drive is the power plus, so it takes a special synthetic fluid they call "maintenance free"... but when reading the fine print it is still supposed to be replaced every 5yrs.

@Troy. R For some reason, this site will not allow me to renew my supporting membership, I have tried multiple times over the last few months. Without the membership, I cannot post any more pictures. I need to email Admin and see why it wont allow me to renew. But check out this link, this is NOT the exact fitting I bought, just an easy picture to show it. I do believe the fitting needed for mine was 1/4" hose barbed fitting on one end with 1/4 NPT female threads on the other end to screw onto the drain hose line. Before that, I would slip the vacuum pump line into the oil drain hose approx 2" and then put a piece of tape blue painters tape (or similar) over the connection so it wouldnt pull out on my and to stop air leaking so the vacuum pump would keep suction on the line

I use a vacuum pump on the drain hose as well after warming up the engine. I found a fitting at Lowes that has a nipple on the end for the vacuum pump hose and on other end, a female threaded end that screws onto the drain hose in place of the factory cap. I took the cap with me to match up the threads I have actually seen a number of posts where people got the hose stuck in the dipstick tube either cause it got wedged into the bottom of tube or due to engine being hot and had the plastic end melt slightly and then get stuck. Personally I would never use the dipstick tube when the drain hose is so easy to access.

You may be able to get a prop customized by having them redo the cup. As I understand it, the cup can effect the higher speeds so perhaps that is an option. I would suggest calling ACME as they keep a lot of prop data for all the different boats and would be able to recommend something that may work better for you without having to buy props without knowing. Believe ACME also offers a program where you can buy a prop and try it.... and if it doesnt work send it back to get something else from them. Everything I have heard tho had the 16x13 working the best for the FI. Dont know if you will get a 30mph cruise out of it since PCM says not to run over 4000rpm for "extended periods", so I would assume to get the most engine life you would want your cruising speed at or below 4000rpm. My SV244 without ballast will run 25mph @ 3500rpm & 30mph @ 4000rpm but also does 39mph @ WOT. I am stuck using a 14" diameter prop tho.

I was going to say that this sounds like a wiring issue and either a bad harness.... or a bad connection somewhere in the harness or one of the plugs. Probably worth checking your engine grounds to be sure they are tight and making good connection

@Zinger16 The 16x13 will work with no issue at 1200ft, you really dont start getting any kind of elevation motor changes till you are 2500+ so between 0-1200 I honestly doubt you will notice any change at all.

This is exactly how I remove my oil filter too. Keeps any oil from getting into the bilge and little to zero mess if you do it right

I installed a new swim ladder for my boat, even with ballast its hard for my mom and some others to get up at times and I wanted them to feel comfortable since I had not heard any negative feedback regarding the swim ladder effecting the surf wave (and I can now confirm that it does not effect my surf wave the way I did it). Since only the new boats come with metal glassed in under the platforms and I have been too busy to go thru all that extra work, I decided to try something new as I did not want to use carriage bolts, I didnt want to drill thru my platform and then also have to replace the SeaDeck. That process didnt seem very strong to me, I imagine that will also let water into the center of the swim platform and for a guy as OCD as I am, I just couldnt bring myself too it. My thinking is if the process I used below fails.... then I will take the time to glass in stainless metal strips and will just cover the holes I made doing it this way. So, I ended up using 5/16" brass nutserts, 4 on each side and bolted up the frame using 5/16" stainless hex head bolts. 3/4" long would work but I did 1" long thinking that since the center of the swim platform is filled with the fiber I would drill the size hole needed for the nutsert and then "mushroom" the bottom of the cavity so I could add epoxy and strengthen it (I used a smaller drill bit and a hand pick to mushroom the bottom). It was time consuming but I after I prepped it all and had the nutserts ready to install.... I filled the hole with epoxy (I used a 2-part) and then inserted the nutsert using a makeshift bold. Immediately after the nutsert was in, I covered the bolt threads with wax so I could remove the bolts later (I used a commode wax ring for this) and then ran the bolt down all the way, it went thru the nutsert and into the epoxy bed I had created below it so the epoxy would cure around the bolt threads. I let it cure for 24hrs before removing the bolts so I could finish the install. I used 3M 4200 to seal everything and bolted down the swim ladder frame securely and then let that cure for another 24hrs. My thinking was that doing it this way, the swim ladder would be held not only by the nutsert which was also partially imbedded into the epoxy, but the bolts also continue threading into the epoxy and since the cavity was mushroomed, it would spreading out the weight more efficiently, this is also partially why I bought a swim ladder that had 8 bolt holes, but I also wanted one that had a spring loaded latch so the ladder would stay in place without velcro/rope holding it. I honestly don't know if my theory was correct on imbedding the bolts into the epoxy, but this swim ladder does not budge at all, I have probably been out 4 times since the install without any issues! Just before I started my install, I found another guy on the Malibu forum who was also installing his swim ladder the same way! Funny that we both had similar ideas.... I dont think he did the epoxy quite like I did, but he said his also turned out very strong. This is the ladder I bought ,NovelBee 3 Step Undermount Sliding Boat Ladder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZL4MWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 5/16" nutserts Holes with mushroomed cavity Bolt threads waxed and threaded thru nutsert and into epoxy to cure 3M 4200 to seal frame before bolting it up Installed

Are you trying to move them while on the trailer? Some boats wont move the tabs unless you are above 7mph. My boat has the main breakers in observers compartment and then some other misc breakers under the helm mounted under the dash (so you gotta lay on your back to see them). Also a smaller breaker panel behind the drivers kickplate..... and a couple in the engine compartment. If actuator works when you put 12 volts to it directly it could be that wire vibrated loose or got corrosion at the helm connections. Its also possible that a relay tripped so be sure to check them, should be a black box mounted to engine with a variety of relays and smaller fuses in it you can check. I believe usually those actuator wires also have a small fuse in-line, likely closer to the battery... but that may not be the case if those wires are tied to a bus that will trip a breaker like you are thinking. Still be worth tracing them near the helm to check for that

Thank you for the compliment, apologies that I didn't see your question till just now. I think they are out of that specific ladder now but what I liked most about it was the 8 anchor points and the fact that it would "click/lock" into place instead of requiring a strap or something else to hold the ladder into the stowed position. I saw a few other stainless ladders that looked like they would do a good job. This ladder looks very similar in design... but doesnt have the pop/lock option and uses a strap: https://www.amazon.com/Marinebaby-Platform-Telescoping-Boarding-Stainless/dp/B07QF74RVQ/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=stainless+swim+ladder&qid=1596723351&sr=8-27#customerReviews This one looks really nice but the price reflects it: https://www.amazon.com/SeaLux-Pop-N-Lock-Undermount-Marine-Telescoping/dp/B010HEUATO/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=stainless+swim+ladder&qid=1596723263&sr=8-17

@TravisL like others said, #1 you gotta add weight. No replacement for displacement. Don't believe the salesmen who tell you if you buy their system then you don't need weight (like the "surf mode" guy). All it really takes with the SV boats is the right amount of ballast and a little knowledge. Listing will give you an excellent wave, it does make some people nervous to drive the boat like that, my wife was one of them and why I transitioned to a suckgate until I was ready to install surf tabs. If you are gonna use a suckgate, the placement of the suckgate in relation to the height of the water on the hull AT SURF SPEED is very important. If the gate is buried under the water then you will get a washy wave, if its too high you will get a rooster tail of water shooting into the air. The idea is for the gate to be approx 2" out of the water fully weighted and at surf speed. You can also change how long/short the wave is by moving the gate forward/backwards on the transom. When I had one I kept it about 12" from the very rear of the boat to get a longer wave. You should do some experimenting since depending on the type of gate you have and your hull design where you need to mount it, you can slightly angle the gate down...which also help to crab the boat and create the wave divergence that you need. The other important thing with these deep-v, Enzo's is if you use a suckgate is you must still have some list to get the cleanest, nicest waves! You cannot run these boats perfectly level. The Malibu boats do it... but they also have a much flatter running surface which makes a difference (Malibu's will also beat the living crap out of you when the water is rough). For regular side I did a difference of approx 300 pounds for the list on that side (but I also had 4400lbs of ballast plumbed into the boat), for the goofy side you have to list even more, I did approx 500lbs difference for goofy! The reason is that you are also counteracting the prop spin on the goofy side so you have to force the boat over a bit more to get the same effect.... to get a clean goofy wave you will also want a enter "A-plate" since it smooths out the wash on the goofy side. So you gotta have more ballast, but the good news is you have an awesome hull for surfing and if you add the ballast/people and spend a couple hours dialing it so you know what to do, your wave will be kickass on either side

@Wylie_Tunes is the stereo guru. It is easy to swap out speakers if you are semi-handy. Its also possible that the stereo was never properly tuned and/or there is a bit of corrosion on some of the connections. I had some popping in my Wetsounds REV-8 tower speakers and the cause was a little corrosion starting at the amp connections and the system needing to be tuned correctly (which wylie tunes did for me). The little I understand about stereo systems (and its very little), seems that building the sub box correctly is the #1 thing that can make or break how a sub performs. If its the factory sub, I imagine that is a likely issue. I had him add a 3rd battery for me so I would have 1 dedicated cranking battery and 2 accessory batteries. I know there are some high end batteries out there but honestly I prefer to use good Interstate wet cell batteries. The cost is way high and they dont last any longer than wet cell...tho I know there are other benefits such as being able to lay them on their sides, etc. I installed a NOCO 3-bank battery maintainer and it stays plugged in anytime I am not using the boat. If you check the water levels 1-2 times yearly and top off as needed with distilled water and keep a maintainer on them, batteries consistently last me 6-7yrs. In the days when I didnt use a maintainer, I was replacing the batteries by year 3. Well worth the investment to get a good maintainer when you replace the batteries.

That prop will make a significant difference out of the hole. The cup mostly effects the upper speeds. I have 2 identical sized props for my boat (1433 &1847) with only difference being the cup (.150 vs .105). I cannot tell any difference getting out of the hole or at surf speed, only place I have noticed any difference at all is at WOT, top speed is 40mph & 38mph. I typically cruise at 26mph and rarely cruise faster than 30mph since that puts me right at 4000rpms. Occasionally I will take the boat to WOT for about 30 seconds just to let the engine exercise and make sure everything sounds good.

I imagine that a 2018 FI would have the metal supports glassed into the bottom of the swim platform... I know for sure that all the 2019+ Centurions do since they are offered as an option from factory so all the new platforms are made with the supports glassed in. You should be able to tell by looking under it since it will look similar to the areas the brackets are mounted to it. Its either gonna be a square or rectangular shape in the middle of the swim platform to "bulges" down to create a flat surface. Your dealer should be able to confirm. Also if you post a picture of the bottom, I can tell you since I have seen quite a few of the late models swim platforms To answer question, yes mine has held up excellent. It does not get used a lot since 90% of the time when I am taking the boat out we are surfing and I mostly added it to give an easier option for people lacking the strength to just pop up. My mom for instance comes occasionally and likes to swim to its perfect for that. I am about 185lbs and use it to get into the boat from the trailer, I have bounced on it lightly a couple times to test it and zero hint of any give or even any creaking, so I feel like its gonna hold up. Also I installed 4 bolts on each side for a total of 8 fasteners so it also has more anchor points. I have seen some ladders that only have 2 on each side and that would make me nervous the way I did it.

I dont know if H2O replied to you yet. Pretty sure the ACME 2907 (16x13) is the surf prop being used for most wakesurfing. The ACME 2829 (16x15) is the one that comes stock as the "recreational" prop. It will give you the fasted top end but not as much power down low which becomes an issue with a lot of people, lot of ballast or high elevations. The ACME 2903 (16x12.5) is for the high elevation. Havent seen too many people talk about this one. One note....I believe that in 2018 they had an FI23 (maybe the one with the 409 engine?) that had a different strut angle and was unable to fit a 16" prop. I may be wrong... but its always good to check the prop you currently have to see how much clearance you have since if you upgrade and end up with less than 3/4"-1" between the tip of the prop and the boat hull, it can mess up the gelcoat pretty bad. Wakemakers has a good "prop finder tool" and their prices are pretty good. Nettle Prop out of Austin, TX used to have the best pricing but its been a couple years since I had to buy a prop. You can also call ACME directly to ask which prop they recommend, they will ask for all your current info and what boat is currently acting like so you will want to look at your prop to see what # it is (stamped on the end of the prop where nut goes on), as well as location/elevation, how much ballast you typically run and what your goals are, ie: do you mostly wakesurf, wakeboard, ski....etc

He hasn't bought one yet, the current market demand is making it tough to get into a new boat for a reasonable price. Sounds like he is now planning to hang onto what he has for now and make the upgrade when things smooth out. He did really like the boat and he is planning on the ZS or an FI

"Exhaust Manifold Water Temperature (EMWT) 1 higher than expected stage 1". So likely impeller related, if impeller has wear it likely cannot keep up when you are fully ballasted. I would not run it till you get it replaced. What are the engine temps getting too?

These guys can make you an A-plate that will fit your boat. Its the center trim plate for the boat that adjusts the attitude of the boat. https://www.infinitywave.net/

Awesome!