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InfinitySurf last won the day on October 11

InfinitySurf had the most liked content!

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About InfinitySurf

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake Norman, NC
  • Interests
    Lake time with family n friends; hunting; adrenaline sports.

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  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

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  1. Centurion license plate

    Sorry to bring up an old thread...just wondering if you ever found a front license plate with either the Centurion logo...or Centurion name? Thinking I would like to add this to my truck as well on front bumper since front license plate is not required in my State.
  2. Winterize-Do I Need To

    x2...I would drain for peace of mind and if you have a heater, make sure you blow out the lines since that is the first thing to get damage along with a plastic perko valve if you have one
  3. Thats pretty cool. My buddy got a foil a few months ago, was fun to do something different tho you gotta be pretty careful to not get hurt. I got twisted up on the thing about a month ago, was unable to bail off in time and landed on the metal mast...made a nice gash in my shin, still wearing the scar! Lesson learned tho...when a foil gets squirrely, bail off. You can "force" a foil to come around cause of that mast (least I am not able to yet).
  4. You welcome, happy to help however I can...I know I have gotten a LOT of help from this forum from more knowledgable people, especially when I first got my boat. I don't know what others think, but I do the AF suck-up, cause I also like to think there are anti-corrosive properties in it. It does say that on the label and I figure for the $25 or less and a little time...its worth it. On the Perko...most of those reviews about it coming apart were a while ago, they made some changes to the unit and I have not heard of any issues since then (tho to be honest its been a while since I have looked, so I may be incorrect that people have not had any issues). Mine seems pretty strong. That said...I have seen quite a few people make one themselves using fittings and that also works great. I like the Perko cause you can SEE the water flow...but that may not be important, just my OCD kicking in on that small detail. Fake a lake works fine for most people, you just gotta watch it to make sure it does not pop off and leave you without water and some people have trouble getting a good seal, guess that part depends on the shape of your hull where the intake comes in. It definately works tho, cheap and easy to get. Guess my thot is that if you are planning to keep the boat, its worth doing something more permanent since it will make your life easier every time you use it and the time you invest initially, will save you time every time you use it. I know I use my perko at least a dozen times a year, so well worth having it (or something like it) on my boat. Running the engine for 10-15mins should easily get the fuel stabilizer thru your entire system if you treat it all before firing it up....personally, I add stabil every few tanks during the year anyway....and when I know I will be putting her to bed soon, on the last outing on the lake I will double it so it gets thru entire system regardless running it that day, then do it again when I fill up the tank before winterizing (I am one that thinks full is better tho with the plastic tanks, it probably does not matter, especially where I live in the SE. More important in really cold climates IMO. I will say that its gonna be tough to get the AF behind the thermostat since after you run the engine to warm it up....you gotta drain everything and THEN suck in the AF. Being you only have roughly 5 gallons (least that is what I do since after about 4gallons, it starts coming out of my exhaust system), I have to think its a 50/50 for the thermostat to still be open so I always just pop a few hoses and use a skinny funnel to pour some AF behind it, only take around 1/2 gallon when I do it. On fogging, I personally do not do it anymore. There is some info out there about it not being needed for fuel injected engines...I really dont know enough about this to have a valid opinion, but decided to not do it on this boat. On previous boats with carbs....I did fog tho. Pretty sure I remember reading that they way they recommend doing this is without running engine anyway. After she is all shut down, remove the plugs, spray it in and then use a socket or wrench to spin the engine to get the cylinders to go up and down so it coat the rings and walls. Check that out tho cause its been a while and again, have not researched that subject like I have others. I am a big believer in doing your own maintenance/work, when you can, I have no training...just learned by trial/error and lots of googling, u-tube and these forums. Best way to get to know your boat plus its something I enjoy doing tho I know many don't. Guess that is really what it comes down to cause besides simple stuff on my trucks like oil changes, etc....I DONT enjoy working on vehicles, just on my toys, so to each his own. Saves a bunch of money too.

    Moved into my new home about a month ago and built a detached garage for my baby so she now has her own home. Most exciting part....I no longer have to fold the tower! Stays much cleaner now too being fully enclosed since before the front and back has ghetto tarps to keep out the rain, but did not keep out dust, etc. 32ft long X 16ft wide detached (also made entire roof truss system into a 12ft wide X 32ft long storage area). 14ft high ceilings with 12x12 garage door and at last minute, I decided to insulate, finish with drywall/paint....and installed a wall unit that has Heat & A/C. Got this picture yesterday when I came back from surfing. Bought a new Ram 1500 about 2 weeks ago too with 3.92 gears, 5.7 Hemi and the tow package, rated for 11,340lbs towing and 1840 payload (total 17,000 GVWR....so realistically 9k is the most you can "legally tow". Handles my SV244 with easy and is much better feeling than the Chevy I have been using for the last 2 years. Even tho the tow ratings are similar on both trucks, the Ram is more powerful and just handles better and brakes are WAY better when backing down a steeper ramp.
  6. Jordie Pro Soulcraft 4' 8"

    Time Left: 11 days and 1 hour

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I bought this Soulcraft, Jordie Pro new, late last year for $950. Its 4' 8", blue board with black traction. Showroom condition and not a single scratch or nick on it, flawless condition and I never used surf wax on it so it still literally looks brand new. Always kept in a padded board bag, even when in boat, and never put in a boat rack. I have lost 25lbs this summer and it is just a little too big for me @ 170lbs. I recently bought a new SC Voodoo in 4' 6", the size fits me much better and this board is way too nice to keep as a "boat board" and I want someone else to enjoy it as much as I have. I live in NC, since its getting toward the end of the season, $700 takes it, I live in NC. You wont find another used Soulcraft in this shape, if you can find one at all, took me months and $1k to get my new one. **This is what Soulcraft says: **The Jordi - Pro Line is a wider nose, wider tail design with a blunt squash tail and a channel bottom nose. The wider, channelled nose will generate speed and provide stability and hold while performing revert tricks, 180’s and spin tricks. The wider tail helps recover from out back in the wave, enabling the rider to drive forward with the most speed for a big air. Pro Line boards utilize PVC stringers for maximum performance and responsiveness. Futures Fin boxes (Quad). For the highest performing fin options in the water.


  7. 2018 Fi21

    Beautiful boat! Love the exterior colors, that blue really stands out. I surfed an FI21 over Fathers Day weekend this summer at Lake Norris. Stock weight with Ramfill and PnP, 6 adults and 1 kid in boat...was a great wave!
  8. Just remembered, this is a thread that @stoked started. I bookmarked it since I also have the ZR409 and when I made my list, I went thru this thread for ideas and to make sure I did not miss anything..... http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/10642-winterizing-pcm-409/
  9. This is a list I had put together and saved on my computer....so I will just copy/paste below. Some you will want to look into, some may not matter to your engine. ***Trick to installing new impeller....I use LOTS of dawn dish soap on the impeller and gently rotate it as you push it in, works like a charm and does not hurt anything. I have heard some people mention using WD-40, but that is not great for rubber, so I would avoid that if possible. NOTE....if you remove the old impeller and there is any damage, or vanes missing. It is VERY important to back-flush the system to get any debris out or you are guaranteed to get an overheat down the road from the debris blocking the system. (since you have to remove the belt anyway to replace the impeller, I always check it out very carefully for any damage. This is one part that I always keep a spare on the boat too. Trick to changing oil filter.... to prevent a mess, use a gallon zip lock bag. I put some paper towels under that area, a couple paper towels at bottom of the zip lock bag just in case and then I pull the zip lock bag up and over the oil filter after I loosen it a little and remove the oil filter INSIDE of the zip lock. All spilled oil stays inside the bag....once done you can just close it up and remove it from the boat with ZERO mess. The paper towels I put under that area will catch any remaining drips of oil. I clean up the oil filter area, make sure that the o-ring from old filter did not stay on the housing....put some fresh oil on the new oil filter gasket and then hand tighten the new filter into place. NOTE....You ALWAYS want to run engine and check oil level after replacing (I also check and double check for leaks around oil filter). Overfilling is worse for the engine than being slightly low....so I put in 1/2 quart less and check it and then add slowly till its perfect. I always check it multiple times on the water as well after replacing to be sure its the right level (not always easy to have boat at right degree when on trailer). You are supposed to let boat sit for 5mins after turning it off to let the oil drain down so level is accurate. Depending on your engine, you may have more than one fuel filter and with today's ethenol fuels especially, this is important IMO. A clogged fuel filter can cause run issues and burn out fuel pumps if not flowing freely. My ZR409 has the spin on fuel/water separator...and then the engine has the FCC fuel filter (always replace gaskets/o-rings at same time which are included with new FCC fuel filter...I also lube them a little oil). Some models have an in-line filter on the gas line between the gas tank and engine. I run only ethenol free fuel and it still looks dirty when I pull it each year for replacement. ( also tend to do the fuel filters in the Spring since you have fresh fuel flowing thru them and new filters wont gunk up during layup....likely they would not anyway, but again, I am OCD about the little things when it comes to my boat). Make sure you add the blue Stabil to your fuel before layup....start engine and let it run 15mins to circulate it thru the system. I also remove all my ballast bags to make sure no mildew under them...and I run a little AF thru ballast pumps to ensure there is no water trapped in the pump. This is also probably a good time to check your thermostat. This is what I do, tho they rarely go bad from what I understand. Of COURSE.....draining all the water out of your engine by removing all the drain plugs (don't forget the hidden one in v-drive). I have a perko flush valve and like to suck up Anti-freeze when done (there is small black adapter hanging off the cap of the Perko, you have to push this into the top before sucking up since that spring loaded valve will not allow it to open unless you have pressure on the line....like from a hose) but have found that sometimes just using a 5 gallon bucket to suck up AF after I drain does not like to work well or quickly....since system has no prime due to water being drained and nothing in impeller it does not like to pull in the AF since its sucking so much air (this will also happen if you have any kind of air leak in the system). So I bought a Harbor Freight transfer pump and use it to "pump" AF into engine since the pump creates its own pressure to push the AF into engine (you still have to start the engine tho to pull it all the way thru properly). I set up the system....turn it on and then instantly start the engine. 5 gallons of AF will go thru system in less than 60 seconds and ususally its coming out of exhaust at around 3.5 gallons.....which is why I do 5 gallons to be sure. Wal-Mart has them for like $3, Lowes is more like $5-$6 each. If your heater is not part of closed cooling system (and you have a heater)....make sure you empty the lines. Mine is part of closed cooling system with the ZR409 so I dont have to worry about it, but have found when draining the water in my engine that if I use a shop vac each time I remove a plug....I am able to get a LOT of extra water out and this can only be a good thing IMO. If I did have to drain the heater, I would use shop vac on the lines and then also blow them out with compressed air to be sure. (course freezing is an issue when water is not able to expand, so cracks something....but I tend to go the extra mile on everything for complete peace of mind). I personally change serpentine belt every 250hrs or 2 yrs. It can last longer, but figure its cheap insurance for $60 since a shredded belt can wreak havoc. My manual does not specify a time period, just says you should check it periodically for cracking, glazing or deterioration and replace if needed. Check all pulleys for any play when belt is off as well. (15mm socket for belt tensioner). NOTE....if you install a new belt, it will almost certainly be too tight to slip over the lip on the pulley for the belt tensioner. The first time I installed a new belt, this frustrated me. Finally realized that you DONT want to pull the belt over the tensioner last, you want to slip it over one of the pulleys that is smooth last and it will go on just fine. On my boat...this took 2 people since the belt tensioner was on one side of the engine and the smooth pulley (I used the one over the impeller pump), was on the other side of engine. Check manual for trans fluid since many engines are different and you NEED to run the correct stuff. Many older engines and some newer (like my 2014), call for the Dex IV trans fluid which is not easy to find anymore, I found some on Amazon. Another thing I think is important at layup is battery maintaining. A smart maintainer will pay for itself quickly since you can double the life of your batteries by keeping the charge topped off. Check water level of batteries before storage, if you need to fill....use distilled water only. Manual says to "remove the batteries" and store them off concrete, in a cool, dry place after checking water level. Guess it depends on if you have power where you store the boat. A TRICK....if you have to remove the batteries, use a zip-tie to tie together all the positive wires together...and negative wires together. I then also label them as battery #1 and #2 (I have 3 batteries since I added a 2nd accessory battery to my boat so removing them is a serious PITA for me...but I also have power and keep boat at my house, so I do not remove them at all. Check ballast impellers too. I find they wear out about every other year depending on use. Once the ballast impellers start to stiffen up, your ballast will lose water thru the impeller. Easy to replace, wakemakers has most of them in stock. SKIDIM has most of the parts for PCM and prices are some of the best I have found, they also offer 10% discount and free shipping over $99, not to mention they are fast to ship. Damp Rid pails in boat....spray down engine with something like "fluid film"...and if possible have some air movement in the boat to prevent mildew during layup. I also like to clean entire interior of boat, 303 all my vinyl really well....remove all my seats and store them inside boat in a way that the vinyl wont get messed up and I also clean exterior of boat and wax for protection....tho Spring is ususally when I do any buffing, etc. (I also leave impeller in during layup since I suck up AF into engine, then I replace in Spring so impeller is fresh....even manual says you do not want to leave it in the engine over layup cause the vanes can take a permanent "set"). Many people remove it anyway tho and tie to steering wheel inside a baggie so it cannot be forgotten and also leave a list with anything else they did....like maybe close the main water intake valve, I never do that tho since its super easy to foget something like that, start up the boat in Spring and realize too late that it was not sucking any water from lake and engine overheats). I leave my impeller in during layup, since I sometimes take boat out during colder months, but we ride thru Thanksgiving and then back out in late March or early April. NOTE....The other reason I change impeller during Spring is cause I like to test it. Some of the new impellers will come with manufacture defect and "spin the hub", which basically means the hub separates from the actual impeller so even tho its all hooked up right, the hub is spinning....but impeller is NOT. This will overheat the boat fast, so I ALWAYS test a new impeller in my driveway before going on lake and make sure to idle the boat for 15mins, or till the boat reaches operating temp and then starts a cooling cycle so I know its working right.
  10. ZR409 oil change

    The biggest key to a fairly easy oil change....is making sure the engine is warmed up first. Cold oil will be thick and hard to get out. I warm it up (I use the oil drain hose and also made myself an adapter even tho my extractor has a hose I can push up into the oil drain hose, I just find the adapter creats a little better suction/seal and I can get more oil out). At first, I also loosen the dipstick (pop it up a couple inches so its not "sealed down" and also remove the engine oil fill cap, I have found that allows the oil to drain easier at first since no "suction" is created is created inside the engine, which could keep it from flowing out the bottom as easily. Once I have most of the oil out, I close them to create more suction so I am not sucking air and getting as much oil out of engine as possible tho its impossible to get every drop out. You CAN pull oil drain hose thru the rear bilge drain plug and not use extractor (5 gallon bucket to catch oil...but on many boats the rear trim tab is in the way and the oil drain hose is not long enough to get around it without adding some sort of extension....if you do it this way, also be prepared to let it sit and drain overnight since its a SLOW process doing it that way since its literally gravity, and as the engine oil cools down it will come out slower and slower.
  11. I had exact same thing happen to me a few times on ignition button rather than the start button, same boat as the OP except a 2014 SV244. This boat has the push button start, stop...and of course the push button ignition button that powers up the system once you turn on the key so you can then push the "Start button". It never happened when I had not been using boat for a while, was always on the water when I had shut things down and later went to press "ignition button" to power things up so I could start boat....would push ignition button and nothing would happen. Let the boat sits 15-20mins and it would work again, was a really frustrating issue cause the first couple times I did not know that if I waited 15-20mins it would work again so I had a couple frantic scrambles! Especially cause the first time it happened to me, it was about 11pm at night as I was going down a dark narrow channel with a boat full of drunks and a good current that was pushing the boat toward the rocks....and drunk people think everything is funny, a few of them almost got thrown overboard! Anyway, replaced the push button switch once I realized that had to be the issue since it would always work after a while and it has not happened since then. However, I now basically don't use the ignition button except on rare occasions because I think these switches just wear out over time and all these push buttons will end up doing the same thing eventually. I now just leave the ignition button "hot/active" and just use the key to turn things on/off as needed. When surfing and we stop to switch riders.....I just hit the "stop" button to kill the engine and just leave the rest of the power on, when ready to go, just hit start and go. If we are gonna sit for a while...I just use the key to kill all the power. On occasion if we are gonna float for a while, I will turn on the key and use the ignition button to turn off the main power so the radio still works but I am not draining the batteries...I just know each time I do that, I have one less "push" down the road and eventually I am gonna push it and nothing will happen again, lol (I actually had my electronics guy fabricate me a little gadgets with 3 wires so if any of my push buttons stop working, I can bypass them with these wires to at least be able to get back from whereever I am at. The joys of newish technology. I probably just need to order 1 extra push button for each, so I have them for down the road.
  12. Ri Series recommendations

    257 wave is awesome....huge barrel. In some situations, almost too big. I spent a week behind one over fathers day, so much fun and impressive boat...I have one picture where dude is riding surfboard on his stomach and literally got his body INSIDE the barrel and rode it like that for a couple mins, so cool!! Plus for a boat that large to handle that well and get great fuel economy to boot....unheard of with any other brand. Personal opinion, I don't NEED a wave that big. I am not good enough to be able to do the kind of crazy tricks you could probably do riding a wave like that....and good enough where I don't need a massive wave "pushing" me along if that makes sense. Also for ME....I would have to get a bigger truck just too pull the boat (Off-topic, but I purchased a 2019 Ram 1500 today actually, with the max tow package and 3.92 gears so its rated for 11,400...big enough for my SV244, not big enough for a 257, lol). Cause I did not go for the heavier desiel option, I am going to add EOH brakes to my trailer over the winter and I do not tow much, or far....so I chose the happy medium. Actually I have been pulling this boat with my 2016 Chevy 1500 (basically same tow ratings as the Ram has) for last 2 years and never felt unsafe for a moment, partly cause I drive like grandpa when pulling the boat, what I DONT like, is backing down the steeper boat launches since normal trailers have no brakes in reverse. Beyond all that, I think most people would pretty much have all they could handle with a 23-24ft RI or FI. Have also been behind RI217/237 and the FI21/23 (not the FI25 yet tho). Wave on all those boats is awesome and you cannot get better for those size boats. Personally if I were going new, it would be FI. While there are some things about the RI that are awesome and the FI does not have....mainly those are things that I don't need or feel like I gotta have and I love the lines/look of the FI a bit better, along with the single screen rather than 2, and of course the cost savings is nice. Wave is awesome with push way back. Actually on that Fathers Day trip....we rode the FI21 for an hour or so. Owner of that 257 is a big dude....prob like 280 and a great rider. He had ZERO issue on that wave, was cutting up, jumping and having a blast. Could not believe that was a 21ft wave when I was riding it (course boat is more like 22ft....but still). I am guessing the FI25 is gonna be awesome, you should demo!
  13. July pic video thread

    We are able to ride thru Thanksgiving here no problem, sometimes the wetsuit gets broken out in Nov and it does make it much harder to stay loose on the board, but still worth getting out. This Spring I started back up at beginning of April in Wetsuit, think it was around the end of May before the water got comfortable enough to lose the suit on regular basis
  14. I do the same thing and run my pumps with engine off. I only have 3 pumps tho since I have Ramfill. 1 for bow and 2 for rear lockers. I also have 2 banks....and added a 3rd battery on my accessory side but ran the pumps the same way before I added the 3rd battery last summer. Definitely no issue running all the pumps with engine on tho I would think, especially if you are keeping batteries on a smart charger when off the water to keep them topped off so the last (and check the water level in batteries at least once a year, add distilled water if low). Keeping water at right level and the charge topped off, will maximize the life
  15. Ri237 vs Tige zx3

    You mean the RZX3 or the Z3? There is a new model for 2019 called a ZX5, its their first 25ft boat that I know of and they are calling it their flagship boat now....but 95% sure there has not been a ZX3 released at this point. I have been behind the RZX2, the RZX3 and the Z3. The Z3 is the traditional bow, when set up right with a good amount of weight it can be very nice (needs minimum of 3500-4000+ with 5-6 adults IMO)....but is VERY weight sensitive to people moving around once you have the wave set up and the wave will wash out if an adult moves from one side to the other suddenly, can be very annoying if you are on the wave when people are running around the boat cause the wave keeps changing on you, lol. RZX2 & RZX3 (both are picklefork designed bows) can also be set up nicely, both better than the Z3 in my opinion cause they are not sensitive and they also NEED weight to be good (stock PnP pretty much sucks and gets boring fast, tried that and did not go back on that boat, but fun and much better when you add about 1500lbs over stock. I have not been one that was maxed out or had reached its potential, some guys on West Coast that look like they have their waves dialed....regardless tho, when it comes to surfing there is not much that is as good as the Centurion wave from my experience.

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