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InfinitySurf

Centurion
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InfinitySurf last won the day on April 19

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About InfinitySurf

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Norman - Denver, NC
  • Interests
    Surfing & Lake time with family/friends

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

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  1. Finally got the time to sit down and do a more detailed write up. Myself and a friend installed the SV version of these InfinityWave surf tabs on my 2014 Centurion SV244, we installed the tabs one evening and then I ran and finished the wiring a couple nights later on 04/13. Since the weather was crappy that weekend, my first LAKE TEST was on the evening of 04/17/2019. I can honestly say that my expectations were exceeded and after only 2-3mins, I had found the right deployment angle to make an excellent surf wave on the regular side. We only had a couple hours and myself and 2 buddies spent it surfing. I totally forgot to see what goofy wave looked like or get any pics or video without a surfer on the wave. I will do that next time out and post up more information. Initial reaction when getting the InfinityWave tab system….they look and feel very well made, its a beefy system and the finish is very nice. I love the fins on the bottom of the tabs since one thing that concerned me putting tabs on an SV244, is I knew that the factory Quicksurf tabs that were installed on the 2015/2016 models where not up to par and most owners I talked to or heard about preferred to still list the boat for the surf wave since they did not feel like the wave using the tabs had enough push/power. I believe with a deep V boat, the hull wants to direct the water outwards, not back toward the surf wave, so without the fins on the bottom of the tab which help direct the water coming off the bottom of the hull toward the surf wave, you don’t get surf wave that feels like it has power. I have Ramfill on my boat and since its important for the tabs to be up as far as possible under swim platform when retracted, the best position I found puts the actuator bracket mount behind the Ramfill tanks….so rather than run the actuator wire thru the hole in the bracket, I drilled/chamfered a hole for the wire approx. 3.5” toward the center of the boat & 3.5” higher than the bracket position so I could avoid the Ramfill tanks and get access to the wire. Actuator wire is 5/16” diameter, so I drilled a 3/8” hole (starting with smaller bit and running in reverse till well thru gelcoat), after the 3/8” hole was drilled I then got another drill bit slightly larger and ran it in reverse to chamfer the hole so I could avoid spider cracking and remove sharp edges due to wire running thru that (most people will not run into this and can run the wire thru the extra hole in the actuator bracket). Then I ran the wires thru hull and sealed the holes on both inside/outside of the hull. I then ran and zip tied all the electrical up to the bottom of the top deck along the outer perimeter and ran everything up to the drivers helm carefully concealing the wires and securing them with zip ties. For now, I am just fabricating a temp bracket to mount the switches below the steering wheel for easy access. My Ballast setup on this boat: Ramfill = 1,250 each side for total of 2500lbs. PnP bags in each rear locker at 700lbs each for total of 1400lbs. PnP bag under bow seats is 500lbs. Then I also have 500lbs of lead bags, I place 300lbs under the bow filler cushion and the other 200 lbs to the left of drivers feet on the floor against the built-in cooler. I fill the Ramfill tanks to 100% on both sides and then I DRAIN off the non-surf side Ramfill to 80% to give a slight list to boat. So basically 1250 Ramfill on surf side and 1000 Ramfill on non-surf side which gives a total of 4,650lbs of ballast. In video’s I posted links too above were taken on 04/17, total of 3 guys on boat including the surfer. Speed is 11mph and center trim tab is at 40%. PCM ZR409 engine at 800ft elevation and my rpm was at 3,150. Previously I ran the same ballast set up but used Nauticurl suck gate and with all things the same, my rpm was at 3,400, so using these InfinityWave surf tabs brought the rpm’s down for sure. Love that since its easier on the engine and I will save a little gas money to boot. Extremely happy with my purchase and wanted to post my experience since I know others are looking at these tabs and probably have similar initial hesitation like I did since these tabs are fairly new to market. Combine the performance of these tabs which I can now experience behind my boat with the great price and customer service and you have a winner!
  2. I WAS using a Nauticurl suck gate.....these surf tabs replaced the suck gate, so the Nauticurl will now be sold since I have no need for it any longer. Yay!! Surf tabs are much more convenient, have more uses that just for surfing (clean up wave for wakeboarding, jump on plane quickly if you have ballast loaded and wanna go to another cove, etc), lower the rpm's while surfing which is easier on my engine long term as well as lower fuel usage (since a suck gate creates a lot of side drag). They also look great and add value to my boat so when the time comes to sell, I am sure that my boat will be in high demand since it will be a turnkey system ready to go. I will say tho that I have zero intention of selling since adding these surf tabs literally gave me every option that the newest boats have. It may have been my only excuse before to upgrade and blow a serious amount of money....so it also allowed me to easily convince the wife to spend $2k on these tabs, compared to selling the boat and then having to stack another $50k on top of that to get a boat that is 5yrs newer. No way I would have done that anyway cause I have been perfectly happy with my ride and I don't make enough money to spend it like that. Now tho, I literally couldnt come up with an excuse if I wanted too. Frankly, I have been considering adding GSA for the last 2 years but could not bring myself to spend $4k for them....not to mention I have heard mixed reviews on how effective GSA is on the deep V boats. But to spend only $2k....and on tabs that were designed SPECIFICALLY for the Deep-V hull, I was all in on making that happen! You are right, the tabs do stick out the sides of the platform some as the pics show, however its worth mentioning that this will not be the case for everyone since my boat has a smaller swim platform called the "surf sized" platform so it does not interfere with or cut into the surf wave. I will just make sure kids on my boat are aware of the tabs and keep my eye on them when swimming or jumping off the back to be sure they jump out, rather than to the side. All these boats have some potential for danger tho and I already have the center trim tab and FAE sticking out, luckily never had any issues there I don't think mine is much different than the new boats with the trim tabs and we get onto the platform from the rear anyway when getting out of the water. Have you seen the GSA surf tabs? Those are quite long and all my friends that have GSA have those tabs sticking out past the end of the swim platform, these come off the side some since my swim platform is not as wide as some, but do not stick out past the back at all and to me, its more likely to be an issue if they extended past the end of the platform rather than sides. I don't personally know anyone that has been injured, tho I am sure it happens occasionally.
  3. Couple pics surfing the wave yesterday evening....more pics and details to come as soon as I have time to put it all together. Also gonna get pics/video of only the wave next time to show the shape/form. If you are on the fence about getting these surf tabs from InfinityWave @Shaka, its a no brainer at the price they are selling them for. Results could not be better in my opinion and I have high expectations when it comes to anything on my boat! Honestly, I was nervous about this initially since I knew the factory QS tabs where not too great on the 2015/2016 SV models. The shape of these tabs along with the fins under them to "direct" the water coming off bottom of the boat toward the wave to give you maximm push....works perfect and it seems that the lack of fins properly directing the water flow toward the surf wave was the flaw in the factory tabs. A deep-V hull is directing the water out, not at the wave and my best guess is that was why the factory tabs did not deliver results that owners were expecting and why many of the SV owners with the factory tabs list boat instead of using the tabs. These InfinityWave surf tabs certainly addressed tho issues.
  4. Few pics on what the InfinityWave surf tabs look like on the boat
  5. I gotta say, I am STOKED about how good these InfinityWave surf tabs performed and how good they look on the boat! The first lake test yesterday went flawless and I could not be happier with my decision to pull the trigger on these! Easy to dial (took less than 3mins adjusting the tabs to find perfect surf wave). Takes very little deployment angle. Using the same ballast setup I was using before when running the Nauticurl suck gate. The rpm's dropped over 200rpm compared to using the suck gate and speed was 11mph instead of 10.8! With center tab at 40% (see below FB video), rpm's are running at 3150. Taking the center tab to 0% to make the surf wave the biggest possible, rpm was 3400. With the Nauticurl and speed at 10.8, rpm's were running 3400-3450 at 40% and 3650+ when taking trim tab to 0%. Soon, I will be posting a much more detailed review and writeup on the InfinityWave tabs. In meantime, Here is a link to the Centurion/Supreme Facebook page that one of my buddies on the boat took and posted to show 2) video's riding the wave and some pictures! WHOOP . https://www.facebook.com/groups/1882458648689246/ https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108049606/?type=3&theater&ifg=1 https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108249611/?type=3&theater&ifg=1
  6. Surf Tabs

    @Dkagele The short version....the InfinityWave surf tabs were flawless at our test yesterday evening and I could not be happier with my decision to pull the trigger on these! Easy to dial (took less than 3mins adjusting the tabs to find perfect surf wave). Same ballast setup I was using before. The rpm's dropped over 200rpm compared to using the suck gate! With center tab at 40% (see below FB video), rpm's running at 3,150. Taking the center tab to 0% to make the surf wave the biggest possible, rpm was 3400. I will be posting a much more detailed review and writeup on the InfinityWave tabs. In meantime, Here is a link to the Centurion/Supreme Facebook page that one of my buddies on the boat took and posted to show 2) video's riding the wave and some pictures! WHOOP . https://www.facebook.com/groups/1882458648689246/ https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108049606/?type=3&theater&ifg=1 https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108249611/?type=3&theater&ifg=1
  7. Surf Tabs

    Sure will! I planned to post a full review with pics and video as soon as I can test & dial in. I am expecting/hoping test will go great. Finally gonna get to test my new InfinityWave surf tabs this evening. I planned to go out on Sunday but the weather here was really crappy all weekend, so heading out with my 2 surfing buddies this evening. Tabs are very well made and my install went smoothly. I connected the tabs directly to my 3rd battery so I can put them up/down without boat being on. I dont think that will be any issue since when not using the boat, its garaged with batteries all turned off and NOCO 3-bank charger hooked up and that 3rd battery is a backup to my 2nd battery which is for accessories/stereo. I don't see any reason why they wont work great, these tabs have the 4 fins under them which directs the water flow under boat toward the wave to give it the push you want. The original "QuickSurf" tabs on the SV boats did not have those fins and were smaller in size than these....and from what I hear didn't work that great and speculation is that a large reason is because the water wasn't "directed" to the wave properly since due to deep v hull, the hull wants to push the water away from the boat rather than behind it (I heard many people with those QS factory tabs on 2015/2016 Centurion boats were getting a better wave listing their boats rather than using the factory QS system) so I was initially nervous about it. After a good deal of research tho, I am pretty confident that I will have good results with this design, plus of course the owner tested these on his own SV230 boat. InfinityWave tab design is similar to the re-designed 2019 surf tabs that Supreme also came out with recently for on their 238 and I hear they are much better this year than in previous years. Since Supreme is also a deep-v boat, should work similar and you know they put a lot of R&D into the new design. Previously, been using a Nauticurl suck gate since 2017 for my surf wave, puts out a very nice clean wave with great push and length. This is a big boat, so takes more to sink the hull, no replacement for displacement! The ballast I have is: Ramfill = 2500lbs; 500lb bow bag under seats; 2) 700lb PnP bags in rear lockers & 500lbs of leadwake bags (so 4900lbs total available....tho if you see my setup below, I am dropping approx 250lbs of that, so using roughly 4650lbs of the ballast). Typical crew for me is 3 guys total including me.....if I get more than 4 guys on boat, I start dropping some ballast to account for the extra weight at rear since on my boat that amount has been perfect. Sometimes if its rough out, I also put a little less lead in the bow so I dont take any big waves over the bow tho majority of that is the driving style. Still, the SV has a lower nose and free board than many of the newer boats so I stay aware of that since I boat on a large lake with big cruisers, so chop can get extreme at times. I like a long wave with plenty of real estate to play on, so was filling all ballast 100%, then drain off Ramfill on NON-surf side to 80% full to give a slight list toward surf side. 300lbs of my lead added to bow under bow filler cushion (including bow bag under seats a total of 800lbs in bow) and the other 200lbs in cabin against the built-in cooler to left of drivers feet. Partial reason for the listing... is there is only one spot on my hull to mount suck gate and with the extra ballast the gate was a little too deep in water. I found if you bury the suck gate too far in water, the wave is not as good so the list brings it up a little out of water and gave me an excellent wave. On test, I plan to start with same ballast setup and see what happens and tweak from there. Frankly the suck gate wave I have is incredible, so if these surf tabs give me similar results, I will be very pleased. I am not really expecting a "better" wave (tho its possible), I just want better convenience, looks, functionality and ability to do wave transfers on the fly. I have 2 friends that are pro's that ride behind my boat occasionally and say the wave is comp quality, I know I love it, but am a noob compared to them and many others on this forum. Using my center tab to adjust, I can either make a steep barrel wave going to 0-10% deployed.....or a more skim style putting tab down to roughly 80%, depends on my rider. Personally I like around 30% since I ride surf style and have been trying to get better at my air's, etc. Tab surf system will not only be easier to deal with, but also will make the boat a little more efficient since the suck gate obviously creates extra drag. My rpm difference is 3100-3200 listing vs 3400-3600 using he suck gate depending on the attitude of my center trim plate setting. Speed is 10.8-11mph and I am at 800ft elevation with the ZR409 engine and using a #1847 & #1433 props (same size props, just slightly different cup which is too slight for me to notice any difference). Totally pumped about going surfing later today!!
  8. These are the 3 final after pictures of how the new 19mm Stainless buttons look. 1st 2 pics I had the navigation lights on so the button would all light up (otherwise only the ignition button stays lite when its clicked to the "ON" position to provide power to the boat. This ignition button is the one that I have had trouble with in past with it always working. Starting late 2017, the ignition button would occasionally decide to randomly not work after I had been on lake for a while. I would shut down and then when ready to go, it would not work. Then typically about 15-20mins later, it would start working again for not apparent reason. Annoying since it would leave me stranded. I got it replaced under warranty and it worked good all last year (tho when on water I rarely turned it off), when surfer's where switching out, I would just hit "engine stop" to shut down the boat but leave ignition button active.....then when ready to go, just hit the "engine start" button. What made me decide to replace was the first time I went to start the boat this Spring, the ignition button did not want to work for about 5 mins (panic mode since ready to leave for the lake and all packed up with people waiting, lol). Luckily it ended up working, but was tired of dealing with this issue.
  9. 1st 4 pictures show the wiring on the new buttons (I connected the wiring harnesses to make replacing buttons down the road easier), plus I was thinking it may be cool to have different colored LED lights for the engine start/stop. I went with blue LED for all these and unless you have the interior lighting on, navigation lights on, or are pushing the button at that moment, the horn/Engine start/stop are wired to only light up when pressing the button. Was thinking tho that I may change the Engine Start button to GREEN LED light.....and the Engine Stop button to RED LED light. See what happens, but since these buttons cost under $10 each and the harnesses will make swapping out easy, I will likely do that at some point. 5th picture shows the 4 buttons in place and the harnesses plugged into the rear (I was trying to show how the wiring harness on each button is correctly wired to the factory wires in case someone else decides to do this), but lighting was not great and without zooming in on pic, may be tough to see factory wires since they were pretty tightly zip tied into the wiring harness and I did not want to take the wiring harness apart.
  10. This was after I had wired everything up and tested and was ready to start re-installing the new stainless buttons
  11. This was after I removed the factory buttons from the holes 1 at a time and then re-wired them hanging under dash to not forget factory wire placement. Then I drilled out the holes in helm control panel to 3/4" so the new 19mm stainless buttons would fit.
  12. Also got the 4 new stainless buttons installed at the drivers helm panel. These replace the factory buttons for "Ignition", "Engine Start", "Engine Stop", & "Horn". Hardest part was figuring out the wiring since the factory plugs had 4 terminals and only the Positive terminal and Negative terminal had any markings, the other 2 did not. The NEW buttons were all marked. The 5 terminals are: Positive, Negative.....NO (Normally Open), NC (Normally closed).....& C (Common). New buttons also came with a wiring harness/plug...this is nice since if for some reason a button goes bad down the road, I can simply unplug, install new button and then plug in the new harness (I bought 2 spare buttons in case any were bad or go bad down road). Doing research, was not able to find any info on the factory buttons to determine what the other 2 terminals were but decided to go with it and try the re-wire using educated guessing since I knew that black wires were Negative and Blue wires were positive and figured that for the most part, the Common would be the terminal that provides the lights (figured that was purple wire since all but horn had purple wires) and then the 4th wire would be "NO" (Normally open) and was the wire that allowed the switch to do its thing. I replaced one button at a time and then tested so if I messed up, I could isolate the reason to a single button. Wiring for the ignition and the horn when smoothly and where wired exactly how I figured. Engine stop/start where a little more tricky since I did this late last night with boat in garage. Anyway, after wiring up the engine stop and engine start buttons like listed above, when I hit the ignition button, I noticed that my fuel was not registering at all, so knew something was backwards. That had happened when I initially tested the engine stop button and was when a terminal was switched, so without thinking enough about it, I changed BOTH the engine start & engine stop button terminals to "NC" (normally closed), instead of the "NO". I turned on battery.....hit the "Ignition" button to give everything power....and pooh my pants when the boat immediately started to fire up and start lol. Scared the living crap out of me since that was the last thing I expected. Engine only turned over for a split second before I hit the "ignition" button again to turn off all power. After thinking about it for a moment, I realized that the "Engine start" button should have stayed on "NO" and if I had thot bout it for more than 10 seconds before changing wiring I would have realized that. So long story short, the engine start worked perfectly using the "NO" terminal.....but the Engine Stop button is the one that required being on the "NC" terminal. Again, it all makes perfect sense after the fact, but since I am not well versed on electric, I didn't get it till I screwed up. So....figured I would post pics of the new stainless buttons, PLUS close up pics of the wiring in case anyone else decides to do this down the road. Quick breakdown: Ignition button is a constant switch. Push in for it to be active.....push again for it to click out and be inactive. The Horn, Engine Start & Engine Stop buttons are all momentary switches. Ignition, Horn & Engine Start all use the "C" & "NO" terminals and the "NC" terminal (yellow wire on the harness for new buttons) is NOT used. On the Engine Stop button, you use the "C" & "NC" terminals and the "NO" terminal (blue wire on the harness for new buttons) is NOT used. On the new harnesses, the Black wire is Negative, Red wire is Positive, Green wire is Common, Blue wire is "NO" (Normally Open) & Yellow wire is "NC" (Normally Closed). I will attached some pics
  13. I got the USB outlets installed this weekend. Wiring was easy and everything was plug and play except at drivers cig socket there were 2 flat spots in the existing hole that I needed to round out for the new USB socket. (Picture shows the old cigarette lighter with new USB installed under throttle control....and the installed USB outlet under dash.
  14. I have not been able to finish this yet since I have been putting the time I have into installing my new InfinityWave surf tab system. Another few hours on that project and I will be ready to lake test (if the storms in my area will move out soon). For the 4 new control panel buttons I am replacing tho....I did get a chance to drill out one of the factory holes (the button for the factory red "Engine Stop") so I could test fit it and see how it looks. I think this is a mod that will end of looking and working great! The new stainless button is the 2nd one down on right side of control panel at helm. The factory holes are 5/8"....and the new stainless 19mm momentary buttons need a 3/4" hole. (the 16mm options are too small IMO and would require using pinky finger to depress), so decided to get the larger ones and drill the holes out larger. Figure if I was able to muster up the courage to drill a bunch of new holes in my transom....a couple on the inside of the boat was nothing, lol.
  15. Surf Tabs

    I have started the InfinityWave surf tab system install on my 2014 SV244. I am totally pumped about this and look forward to testing as soon as these storms move out. Here are some teaser pics in the meantime. Tabs and actuators/wires all fully mounted and in place... just need to finish permanently installing my wiring and then fabricate my bracket to mount the switches at the helm since I dont want to drill into my dash at this time. Tabs look really good and I temp wired everything together last night to test it all, everything worked very well and I am excited at the prospect of soon being able to control my surfing with the switches! Shaka is very responsive, these guys are obviously dedicated to making sure that everything works well and they provide a quality product for a very fair price. I think this is gonna be a homerun!
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