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InfinitySurf last won the day on June 24

InfinitySurf had the most liked content!

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About InfinitySurf

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake Norman - Denver, NC
  • Interests
    Surfing & Lake time with family/friends

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  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

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  1. 09 enzo sv230

    @TravisL like others said, #1 you gotta add weight. No replacement for displacement. Don't believe the salesmen who tell you if you buy their system then you don't need weight (like the "surf mode" guy). All it really takes with the SV boats is the right amount of ballast and a little knowledge. Listing will give you an excellent wave, it does make some people nervous to drive the boat like that, my wife was one of them and why I transitioned to a suckgate until I was ready to install surf tabs. If you are gonna use a suckgate, the placement of the suckgate in relation to the height of the water on the hull AT SURF SPEED is very important. If the gate is buried under the water then you will get a washy wave, if its too high you will get a rooster tail of water shooting into the air. The idea is for the gate to be approx 2" out of the water fully weighted and at surf speed. You can also change how long/short the wave is by moving the gate forward/backwards on the transom. When I had one I kept it about 12" from the very rear of the boat to get a longer wave. You should do some experimenting since depending on the type of gate you have and your hull design where you need to mount it, you can slightly angle the gate down...which also help to crab the boat and create the wave divergence that you need. The other important thing with these deep-v, Enzo's is if you use a suckgate is you must still have some list to get the cleanest, nicest waves! You cannot run these boats perfectly level. The Malibu boats do it... but they also have a much flatter running surface which makes a difference (Malibu's will also beat the living crap out of you when the water is rough). For regular side I did a difference of approx 300 pounds for the list on that side (but I also had 4400lbs of ballast plumbed into the boat), for the goofy side you have to list even more, I did approx 500lbs difference for goofy! The reason is that you are also counteracting the prop spin on the goofy side so you have to force the boat over a bit more to get the same effect.... to get a clean goofy wave you will also want a enter "A-plate" since it smooths out the wash on the goofy side. So you gotta have more ballast, but the good news is you have an awesome hull for surfing and if you add the ballast/people and spend a couple hours dialing it so you know what to do, your wave will be kickass on either side
  2. @Wylie_Tunes is the stereo guru. It is easy to swap out speakers if you are semi-handy. Its also possible that the stereo was never properly tuned and/or there is a bit of corrosion on some of the connections. I had some popping in my Wetsounds REV-8 tower speakers and the cause was a little corrosion starting at the amp connections and the system needing to be tuned correctly (which wylie tunes did for me). The little I understand about stereo systems (and its very little), seems that building the sub box correctly is the #1 thing that can make or break how a sub performs. If its the factory sub, I imagine that is a likely issue. I had him add a 3rd battery for me so I would have 1 dedicated cranking battery and 2 accessory batteries. I know there are some high end batteries out there but honestly I prefer to use good Interstate wet cell batteries. The cost is way high and they dont last any longer than wet cell...tho I know there are other benefits such as being able to lay them on their sides, etc. I installed a NOCO 3-bank battery maintainer and it stays plugged in anytime I am not using the boat. If you check the water levels 1-2 times yearly and top off as needed with distilled water and keep a maintainer on them, batteries consistently last me 6-7yrs. In the days when I didnt use a maintainer, I was replacing the batteries by year 3. Well worth the investment to get a good maintainer when you replace the batteries.
  3. That prop will make a significant difference out of the hole. The cup mostly effects the upper speeds. I have 2 identical sized props for my boat (1433 &1847) with only difference being the cup (.150 vs .105). I cannot tell any difference getting out of the hole or at surf speed, only place I have noticed any difference at all is at WOT, top speed is 40mph & 38mph. I typically cruise at 26mph and rarely cruise faster than 30mph since that puts me right at 4000rpms. Occasionally I will take the boat to WOT for about 30 seconds just to let the engine exercise and make sure everything sounds good.
  4. I imagine that a 2018 FI would have the metal supports glassed into the bottom of the swim platform... I know for sure that all the 2019+ Centurions do since they are offered as an option from factory so all the new platforms are made with the supports glassed in. You should be able to tell by looking under it since it will look similar to the areas the brackets are mounted to it. Its either gonna be a square or rectangular shape in the middle of the swim platform to "bulges" down to create a flat surface. Your dealer should be able to confirm. Also if you post a picture of the bottom, I can tell you since I have seen quite a few of the late models swim platforms To answer question, yes mine has held up excellent. It does not get used a lot since 90% of the time when I am taking the boat out we are surfing and I mostly added it to give an easier option for people lacking the strength to just pop up. My mom for instance comes occasionally and likes to swim to its perfect for that. I am about 185lbs and use it to get into the boat from the trailer, I have bounced on it lightly a couple times to test it and zero hint of any give or even any creaking, so I feel like its gonna hold up. Also I installed 4 bolts on each side for a total of 8 fasteners so it also has more anchor points. I have seen some ladders that only have 2 on each side and that would make me nervous the way I did it.
  5. I dont know if H2O replied to you yet. Pretty sure the ACME 2907 (16x13) is the surf prop being used for most wakesurfing. The ACME 2829 (16x15) is the one that comes stock as the "recreational" prop. It will give you the fasted top end but not as much power down low which becomes an issue with a lot of people, lot of ballast or high elevations. The ACME 2903 (16x12.5) is for the high elevation. Havent seen too many people talk about this one. One note....I believe that in 2018 they had an FI23 (maybe the one with the 409 engine?) that had a different strut angle and was unable to fit a 16" prop. I may be wrong... but its always good to check the prop you currently have to see how much clearance you have since if you upgrade and end up with less than 3/4"-1" between the tip of the prop and the boat hull, it can mess up the gelcoat pretty bad. Wakemakers has a good "prop finder tool" and their prices are pretty good. Nettle Prop out of Austin, TX used to have the best pricing but its been a couple years since I had to buy a prop. You can also call ACME directly to ask which prop they recommend, they will ask for all your current info and what boat is currently acting like so you will want to look at your prop to see what # it is (stamped on the end of the prop where nut goes on), as well as location/elevation, how much ballast you typically run and what your goals are, ie: do you mostly wakesurf, wakeboard, ski....etc
  6. ZS232 wave setup advice

    He hasn't bought one yet, the current market demand is making it tough to get into a new boat for a reasonable price. Sounds like he is now planning to hang onto what he has for now and make the upgrade when things smooth out. He did really like the boat and he is planning on the ZS or an FI
  7. "Exhaust Manifold Water Temperature (EMWT) 1 higher than expected stage 1". So likely impeller related, if impeller has wear it likely cannot keep up when you are fully ballasted. I would not run it till you get it replaced. What are the engine temps getting too?
  8. Surfing and dropping rope

    These guys can make you an A-plate that will fit your boat. Its the center trim plate for the boat that adjusts the attitude of the boat. https://www.infinitywave.net/
  9. So you added some aftermarket transom lights, plugged them into the boat harness back in the transom and then activated the on/off switch in the dealer settings? If you did all that and they are not working, think first thing I would do is unplug them and use a voltmeter to be sure you are getting 12 volt power to the deutch connectors back there. Mine where back there just like I was told and it was a simple plug and play. Soon as I activated the lighting in the dealer settings, they worked fine. Volz is likely right that they are tied to a relay but since they are pre-wired into the factory harness you should not have to do anything for them to already have power unless the relay is bad and/or they blew a fuse. You would have to have the power on for the boat for them to work since they are not wired direct to battery, assume you would know that tho. Also, some transom lights are not designed to be 12 volt plug/play you have to install something to step up the power. i think for instance the Liquid Lumens run off 24 volt (I may be wrong on that brand) and you have to buy a special transformer that is placed in-line in order for them to work. Which brand did you buy?
  10. You should demo the boat and have extra people or ballast to load it down with so you can see how it does at that elevation. It may be ok with the right prop but you will lose some power at 4000ft and only way to know how it will do is to try out the boat in real life test.
  11. Really any good boat mechanic can do an inspection since most v-drives are pretty similar. Today the Centurion boats have PCM engines, back in 2005 was probably a Mercruiser engine in that boat? That's probably more what you are looking for, a mechanic that knows the engine/trans/v-drive in that boat plus of course a mechanic that knows the common v-drive boat issues that can surface and/or be expensive to repair. The other important item IMO is getting a mechanic who will actually take the boat for a test run while listening/checking for any noises or potential issues. There are a few engine related things that may act fine running off a hose but as soon as you put power to the boat on the water, falls on its face. Personally I think a compression test is always a good thing to do. As far as stuff for you to personally check... crawl thru the entire boat boat looking into every nook and cranny. Check compartments, the engine/bilge area.... under the floor if possible, etc. Does it look clean and neat or is there old nasty water sitting in the bilge.... does it look like the water in the bilge has been high and do you see "scum rings" under engine area.... do the lockers smell like mildew.... what condition is the vinyl in, etc. Also look at some of the electrical connections, do you see corrosion. If you do then your likely to deal with some gremlins here/there. Check the oil in the engine, transmission & v-drive. Does the oil look reasonably fresh and does it smell rightWith a 2005 there will be some things of course but in my experience, a person who keeps their boat clean/tidy is also someone who is not neglecting the maintainance and takes pride in ownership. Ask owner if they kept a log detailing the oil changes and other maintainance items, like when was the impeller last changed. Sometimes just asking some basic questions can give you a good idea if its a person who cared for the boat or knew nothing about it and was just interested is running it hard and then putting it away wet without a 2nd thought.
  12. Drill a small hole thru the lower c-channel track and also the engine divider, then put a cotter pin thru the hole. That keeps the engine divider in place and unable to jump the track and fall into the engine area.
  13. @volzalum Above are some of the original install pics. The only thing about using the stronger "grade 8" screws at the exhaust flange is that the heads started rusting after some time, even tho I do not leave the boat in the water. Because I used the 3M 5200, I probably never needed the grade 8 screws but at that time I didn't want to take any chances since I knew of 2 others with my exact boat that had the stainless heads break off.... but adding the 3M 5200 around the flange was what FAE also started recommending to reduce some of the stress put on those 3 screws. Let me know if I can help in any other way

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