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InfinitySurf last won the day on June 11 2023

InfinitySurf had the most liked content!

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About InfinitySurf

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake Norman - Denver, NC
  • Interests
    Surfing & Lake time with family/friends

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  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

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7,252 profile views
  1. Good morning. I saw you talked about replacing the ram fill valves. I have a 2021 ri237 with a broken valve   It’s under warranty but dealer is going to be very slow to fix it.  Which wiring harness do I need to make sure I have  when I order off of Amazon.  Thank you scott 

  2. Here you go...I did this to my boat - 2014 SV244
  3. Quickdrain plugs

    I use my boat thru Thanksgiving every year and occaionally also thru December (I also have the ZR409), and I looked into this a couple years ago. You can get those hole sizes in brass with a 3/8" barbed fitting on the end... see link for example ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-2-in-Barbed-Barb-x-MIP-Adapter-Fitting/1000504953 ) I then put a short length of tube over the barbed fitting with a petcock knob on it so with a quick twist you can open and drain. The reason I decided to not use this method is cause it reduces the diameter of the drain enough that I am worried one of the drains could potentially clog and I would not know it till I had an issue if the clog didn't allow a full drain. When I drain I will open the drains and then use a shop vac to pull out as much water as possible which also helps to ensure there are no blockages and it keeps water out of my bilge since I do this in my garage. Anyway, I decided to not risk doing it this way on my boat. I have seen other people do something similar, just made me too nervous. Another deciding factor for me was I built a new home in 2018 and I built a detached garage for my boat which includes heat/AC so if temps drop I can turn on the heat. There are likely other and better options out there that I did not see, just figured I would share what I tried. Good luck finding something that works for you
  4. Quickdrain plugs

    No, those blue plugs are only for the newer H5 & H6 engines. The thread and the size will not be right. If you are looking for replacement plugs, I think your best bet is too look at some of the NTP gas fittings that you can find at hardware stores/Lowes, etc. I think the 2 sizes on the ZR409 engine are 1/2" and 3/4". What is your goal, you looking for replacements or are you looking for something you can remove/re-install quicker without tools to make draining the water quicker? I would definitely not use plastic on this engine, the design on the H5/H6 is different which allows those blue plastic plugs to work.
  5. Winterization 2007 Elite V

    Yes, you must drain all the water first before doing the AF. 5-6gal should be enough for it too start coming out of exhaust (it does on my ZR409 engine). Perhaps the 550 is different on that one. Under the throttle, there is a neutral button
  6. Surf Tabs

    The factory QS tabs for 2015/2016 did not work effectively, you can get a better wave by listing the boat. It isnt that the hulls would not produce an excellent wave using surf tabs.... it was a design flaw issue IMO. My un-scientific opinion is that the factory QS tabs were not shaped properly and are too small, so for them to do what they are supposed too (crab the hull), they have too be deployed so far that they degrade the wave. So I would say 100% by switching to the InfinityWave surf tabs you will be able to effectively use them. The cool thing is all you should have to do is remove the old factory tabs and just re-use the existing actuators & wiring. It is possible (likely even?) that you will have to re-mount the actuators to get the best position.... I did not have factory tabs so didnt have to worry about that. I imagine since these tabs are larger tho, they may not line up left/right to existing actuator placement... plus when you mount the actuator position you want the "at rest/retracted" position of the tabs to be as high as possible under swim platform, mine are 1/2" from swim platform brackets. If they are not as high as possible, it can interfere with your wave so its one of the most important steps. One thing I will say tho.... I am not sure how adjustable the factory tabs were (I think they have different placement positions and are adjustable tho?) , the reason this matters is you want surf tabs to deploy the LEAST possible to get your surf wave, on my SV244 hull that is approx 9% compared to the running surface of the hull. That gives me the largest surf style wave. If I want more of a skim style wave, I can deploy the tab a little further.... go too far and then of course the wave starts getting washy. InfinityWave may have some experience replacing just the factory tabs and keeping the rest of the factory equipment, you should call them and see what they say. Hopefully they can give you the exact answers.... and I am sure you can also get a better deal talking to them directly if you are only wanting the 2 surf tabs and none of the other items. BTW....Beautiful boat! I have seen you post pics on the FB group.
  7. Fender hooks

    Do it once. These Phender Pros (or similar) will last and will look good. I have used them on several boats and they are very handy to have and it leaves your cleats for tying off. (FYI.... I was going to do this myself but instead I used a strong paracord rope on my fenders so I can hook them to my cleats and still have plenty of space to tie off. You can get under the gunwale in some places without too much issue, you just gotta plan it. Near the transom should be fairly easy due to the lockers..... also under observers seat should give you access as well as under driver helm if you remove the panel. Typically near the tower legs, above the cup holders is a cutout that will also allow you to get a hand in there under gunwale. Gunwale is where a lot of your wiring is run so be sure to investigate carefully before poking holes. Any gelcoat drilling, make sure you have the right tools and take your time, you want to always drill in reverse till you are fully thru the gelcoat (if you go in forward you can literally tear chunks of gelcoat out). Once hole is drilled, you want to carefully chamfer the edges of the holes so you do not get gelcoat spider cracking. Use thread locker so you can make them snug but dont have to torque down the thru-hull pieces since torquing something down along with no chamfer is what starts gelcoat spider cracks. https://www.amazon.com/Phender-Pro-8-Inch-Stainless-Release/dp/B07MVCXHP2/ref=asc_df_B07MVCXHP2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343985504572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12028216156765839506&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009906&hvtargid=pla-755874823430&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69358348055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343985504572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12028216156765839506&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009906&hvtargid=pla-755874823430
  8. I think you are on the right track, the cap is a maintenance item that can get corrosion build up on it pretty quick and my guess is this is the mostly likely thing to be giving you issues. IAC is also a great suggestion. On the fuel side, I would definitely replace the fuel filters and when you check for water, check to see if your fuel pickup has a screen or filter on the end as sometimes they can get clogged enough to bog down the engine under load (rare but possible) If your replacing the plugs, you should check out the wires as well to make sure they dont have cracks. You can test their resistance using a meter.... another trick is too run the engine in the dark while gently moving the plug wires, if you see any arcing, they will be an issue. I assume you have checked the fluid levels in your trans & v-drive? From how you describe the surging, it sounds fuel related but low fluid levels can cause slipping and depending on your pitch/roll when boarding, if fluid is low that is the most likely time to have issues. It could also happen if any water got into the breather vents....so you also want to be sure the fluid is not milky looking. Some models have different procedures on how to check the fluids, some you check cold without screwing the dipstick back in (my PCM trans is like that).... others you have to shift the boat into forward, then reverse and then check it warm, etc. Probably time to replace the fluids anyway. I have a handheld vacuum canister that i use for the trans & v-drive so I can suck out the fluid, measure the amount removed and then put exactly the same amount back in (if I know the level is correct before replacing). I change out my trans fluid every layup so its an easy method to keep the level where I want it, most of these units take between 1.5 - 2quarts and usually you cannot get all the old fluid out. I started removing a quart of the transmission DEX III and putting in a new quart since I do it frequently. My v-drive is the power plus, so it takes a special synthetic fluid they call "maintenance free"... but when reading the fine print it is still supposed to be replaced every 5yrs.
  9. @Troy. R For some reason, this site will not allow me to renew my supporting membership, I have tried multiple times over the last few months. Without the membership, I cannot post any more pictures. I need to email Admin and see why it wont allow me to renew. But check out this link, this is NOT the exact fitting I bought, just an easy picture to show it. I do believe the fitting needed for mine was 1/4" hose barbed fitting on one end with 1/4 NPT female threads on the other end to screw onto the drain hose line. Before that, I would slip the vacuum pump line into the oil drain hose approx 2" and then put a piece of tape blue painters tape (or similar) over the connection so it wouldnt pull out on my and to stop air leaking so the vacuum pump would keep suction on the line
  10. I use a vacuum pump on the drain hose as well after warming up the engine. I found a fitting at Lowes that has a nipple on the end for the vacuum pump hose and on other end, a female threaded end that screws onto the drain hose in place of the factory cap. I took the cap with me to match up the threads I have actually seen a number of posts where people got the hose stuck in the dipstick tube either cause it got wedged into the bottom of tube or due to engine being hot and had the plastic end melt slightly and then get stuck. Personally I would never use the dipstick tube when the drain hose is so easy to access.
  11. You may be able to get a prop customized by having them redo the cup. As I understand it, the cup can effect the higher speeds so perhaps that is an option. I would suggest calling ACME as they keep a lot of prop data for all the different boats and would be able to recommend something that may work better for you without having to buy props without knowing. Believe ACME also offers a program where you can buy a prop and try it.... and if it doesnt work send it back to get something else from them. Everything I have heard tho had the 16x13 working the best for the FI. Dont know if you will get a 30mph cruise out of it since PCM says not to run over 4000rpm for "extended periods", so I would assume to get the most engine life you would want your cruising speed at or below 4000rpm. My SV244 without ballast will run 25mph @ 3500rpm & 30mph @ 4000rpm but also does 39mph @ WOT. I am stuck using a 14" diameter prop tho.
  12. I was going to say that this sounds like a wiring issue and either a bad harness.... or a bad connection somewhere in the harness or one of the plugs. Probably worth checking your engine grounds to be sure they are tight and making good connection
  13. @Zinger16 The 16x13 will work with no issue at 1200ft, you really dont start getting any kind of elevation motor changes till you are 2500+ so between 0-1200 I honestly doubt you will notice any change at all.
  14. This is exactly how I remove my oil filter too. Keeps any oil from getting into the bilge and little to zero mess if you do it right
  15. Are you trying to move them while on the trailer? Some boats wont move the tabs unless you are above 7mph. My boat has the main breakers in observers compartment and then some other misc breakers under the helm mounted under the dash (so you gotta lay on your back to see them). Also a smaller breaker panel behind the drivers kickplate..... and a couple in the engine compartment. If actuator works when you put 12 volts to it directly it could be that wire vibrated loose or got corrosion at the helm connections. Its also possible that a relay tripped so be sure to check them, should be a black box mounted to engine with a variety of relays and smaller fuses in it you can check. I believe usually those actuator wires also have a small fuse in-line, likely closer to the battery... but that may not be the case if those wires are tied to a bus that will trip a breaker like you are thinking. Still be worth tracing them near the helm to check for that

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