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InfinitySurf last won the day on May 27

InfinitySurf had the most liked content!

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About InfinitySurf

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lake Norman - Denver, NC
  • Interests
    Surfing & Lake time with family/friends

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  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

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  1. Strut angle on SV230 2006

    Looks like STSL 16 to me (I think if it was an 8, it would be rounder. You may have more...and much faster responses for a technical question like this on the Centurion/Supreme FB page. Lot of activity over there
  2. The bolt-on plate does stop some of the misc spray at surf speed (it was never real bad nor did the spray hit/effect the surfer) but does not completely stop it. The deep V hull and angle I surf at just puts the tip of the FAE right where the pocket of air behind the hull and the water coming back together all combine and I am convinced that is why I get any spray at all. I have a few friends with FAE added to their non-Centurion boats and none of them get any spray, nor do they have a spray plate. At some point (cause I like projects), I may customize/build a silent stinger plate similar to the new Centurions. May not happen for a while since its low on the priority list. I like the look/functionality of the "silent stinger" and it would clean up the items on the back of my boat since I have the A-plate, the InfinityWave surf tab system, the FAE....and recently added, telescoping swim ladder mounted to the bottom of my swim platform. My surf sized swim platform makes the mods look out of proportion but I have not had any issues with anyone hitting the surf tabs or anything else when surfing or swimming. The swim ladder does not effect the wave at all and it makes it easier for my wife to get out of water from swimming/floating since her knee injuries make it hard for her to get from water, onto swim platform.
  3. Do you already have the software on a thumb drive...or are you asking how to get the software update?
  4. S238 or LSV22?

    I actually have not been on an S238 so I cannot compare there, I have heard many good things about the Supreme boats, no doubt on a boat that big you need a good deal of ballast. I have a few friends I surf with on a regular basis and at beginning of 2019, 1 of them got the new 22LSV. Malibu changed their surfgate design in 2019 and I was actually surprised how good the wave was compared to all the previous Malibu surfgate boats I had been on, it was no longer a "pretty" looking yet soft wave lacking push when you ride it. This boat is not a rough water boat due to flatter bottom design.... but it put out a very nice surf wave with all the factory ballast and 2-4 of us on board. If you do a transfer, you better be holding onto the steering wheel for dear life, cause there is already a pretty decent amount of steering wheel pull coming from the deployed surfgate, when you transfer sides, the boat suddenly takes a different direction and the pull comes from opposite side (feels like a sudden 45 degree direction change). One thing to also consider is how much fuel Malibu drinks with the wedge and the surfgate engaged. Their boats are very nice and screens are user friendly The fuel consumption on that boat was not quite as bad as my friend who recently bought a 2020 M240 Malibu with the supercharged engine. Last weekend we filled up in the morning and went out....you can almost watch the fuel level go down in that boat as people surf and in 5hrs we had to go back to marina to fuel up again since guage had gone from 100% down to 11%. It was kindof shocking to a guy like me with an SV244 who averages 5GPH and can spend 2 FULL days on the water surfing without needing fuel. My advise would be to do a thorough demo of both boats, put them thru their paces and also make sure you surf behind them both. They will both have pros/cons.
  5. My 2014 SV244 was bought new at Transition, good dealership in my experience. The ZR409 is a great motor, I have had zero issues with mine but also stay on top of maintainance. FYI...for what its worth, in July 2019, PCM put out a bulletin changing the oil specs to DEXOS2 5w-30 motor oil.... previously it was speced with 15w-40. Since boat is a 2013....you may wanna ask if some service work has already been done so you know whether you need to do it since at 500hrs or 5yr they recommend that the DEXCOOL coolant is replaced. If it has the power plus v-drive like mine, that specialty fluid is also replaced at 5yrs. The trans is regular DEXIII and I change mine every Fall. The spark plugs are also a 500hr/5yr replacement item, they are the iridium tipped plugs and a pretty penny tho when I changed mine at end of 2018 I found a $3 rebate per plug at Advance Auto (don't buy those plugs on Amazon, they are often fakes). An easy way to see if the ballast puppy pump impellers need to be replaced is too pull the boat out of the water with a little water left in the ballast bags, if the water drips quickly out of the thru hull openings, its time to replace them. I replace mine every other season. They are the green nitrile impellers and WakeMakers usually has the best pricing. Of course be sure that a brand new impeller was installed this Spring along with new oil/filter, etc. Make sure the boat has gotten the most recent software update as you need a dealer for that! Also worth asking if the batteries have been replaced and when, I installed a NOCO maintainer and keep the boat plugged in 24/7 when not in the water and it keeps the batteries in top shape. That boat will put out a killer wave whether you list it, use a suck gate (I used a Nauticurl for a few seasons), or install a surf tab system (I installed an InfinityWave system in early 2019 and love it). It is a big boat and requires some weight to displace that hull properly. I agree you will want the bigger PnP bags. I also use 500lbs of lead tho 300 of that adds to my bow weight since I also have the 500lb bow sac under seats. The #1433 or #1847 prop are the best for that boat, at 800ft elevation where I am in NC, 5-6 adults and full ballast (4900lbs total on my boat), that engine/prop combo handles it easily and surfs at a max of 3500rpm with suckgate. Listing the boat or using the surf tabs brings the rpm's down to 3200rpm. It is a very efficient hull/engine combo....I average approx 5GPH and do nothing but surf. I plan to keep mine long-term and have done just about every mod/update possible, so feel free to hit me up if you have any questions or want any mod info. (you will love that Deckadence flooring!) Good luck, I hope your test drive goes well, take your time and after starting the engine, remove the back seat so you can hear the engine and listen carefully for any strange noises....have someone else shift the boat into forward and reverse while you are back there listening.
  6. Have you checked tranny & v-drive fluids and would it do that if fluid is low and light is on?
  7. I have a 2014 SV244 and in 2017 had my 303 head unit replaced under warranty since it wasn't acting right. Its been good ever since. There are some other models that will fit that same hole in the glove box tho, so that may be worth looking at if you are gonna replace it. Are you turning your battery switch to "off" when boat is not in use? I think I would also check all your stereo connections to make sure there is no corrosion... something may also be loose which would cause a reset. Check all connections to the battery and also check all the ground connections. Before replacing the head unit tho, I would make sure that your batteries are topped off and check the water levels (fill only with distilled water... I top mine off every Fall), you may have some cells going bad, you will see them all corroded if you look down into each cell with a flashlight. I keep a NOCO maintainer plugged in 24/7 when not on the water and that keeps batteries in much better condition for much longer. If your batteries are the originals....it may be time to replace them. Even with a maintainer, 6yrs is about the life cycle in my experience (3yrs if you dont keep a battery maintainer on them and check levels). Battery issues can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. Depending on your software....you may also want to get it updated. A dealer can get you squared away for a software update.
  8. If I was draining the fuel tank on my SV.... I would remove the floor panel and then either remove a fuel fill hose to get my siphon in there, or remove the fuel sender and use that opening (personally thinking this is easiest place where you can easily see inside the tank and if you tilt the bow up, be able to drain 99% of the old fuel). Getting a siphon hose into the tank without opening up something will be difficult since about 16" below the fuel fill cap inside the fill hose, you have an anti-splash fitting with a flap and at least on my SV, the fill hose turns in way that would make it troublesome to get it all the way into the tank. Another option would be to remove the fuel fill hose on the bottom side of the anti-splash valve and put your siphon hose in from there.... problem with that is you wont be able to properly position your siphon hose and/or see to make sure all fuel gets removed. I recently removed my fuel sender and it was a fairly easy process. Hopefully you stabilized the fuel before layup and by removing all the old fuel and putting in fresh, you can avoid the old fuel gunking up your fuel pumps and injectors. May be worth putting a cleaner in there as well? I have dealt with lots of ethenol fuel issues on carb engines (essentially turns to "sand" like material once it breaks down) but not specifically on an engine like this (I have a 2014 ZR409 in my SV244). Be sure you replace the spin on fuel/water separating filter.....as well as your FCC fuel filter. I agree that replacing the existing fuel is a smart thing to do before trying to start it....its a pain in the tush but much less so than firing it up with existing fuel and dealing with what will happen if it already went thru full phase separation As far as precautions.... . think I would also change the trans and v-drive oils at the same time as the engine oil/filter. Impeller change of course.... and carefully check your belt for signs of wear. I would also grease any zerks and spray lubricant on all moving points. After you start....I would keep engine bay open, check for any water leaks or any strange noises....and make sure the engine gets fully up to operating temp and then comes down before driving anywhere. Thermostats should be fine.... if you do have the partial closed cooled ZR409, there are 2 thermostats. 1 for the raw water and 1 for the DEXCOOL on the closed cooling side.
  9. Fi23 vs GS22?

    Here is another Boardco video showing the FI doing all 3 sports in 5 mins. Slalom, wakeboard and surf
  10. Call ACME, they will ask details on your boat such as the model (C4 being an Avalanche?) your elevation, the current prop, how much ballast you run, etc. They can recommend a prop based on that.. On your diameter, you want to maintain at least a 3/4" clearance from your hull so you don't get prop burn on the bottom of your hull, likely they will recommend a prop with less pitch to give you more low end power. What is the number to your current prop? The prop number as well as your diameter and pitch size will be stamped on the hub of the prop where the nut is installed. I would have the number off your current prop and also use a tape measure to see exactly how far away from the bottom of your hull the current prop is. Best place to buys props I know of is Nettle Props out of Austin, TX. They have good prices and they also do very good prop repairs for reasonable price. They may also be able to recommend a good ACME prop
  11. That is great news! Glad the damage is not as serious as it looked
  12. I am not sure how the Quickfill tanks vent....tho what you say makes sense. Since the QF tanks are not very large, I did not think they extended all the way up to the steering wheel. I have Ramfill tho so not familiar with all the QF details. I dont think I have seen exactly the type of fitting you are describing, but if its threaded on one end and attached to a hose on the other, I wonder if that 90 degree fitting is actually connected/snapped to the male fitting that is threaded on the other end? Does it have a red "tab" on one end? It sounds like its a normal ballast end fitting that factory installs? This is where a picture would be very helpful. However, your best chance is probably contacting someone like WakeMakers.com since they sell a bunch of ballast fittings. I can tell you that they will be asking for a picture as well to confirm. https://www.wakemakers.com/wakeboard-ballast/ Worst case tho, you may have to talk directly to Fineline Customer Service, they would want the Hull ID# to look up your boat. Hopefully its something you can resolve without too much issues.
  13. If insurance is involved.... I would think its possible if the structural damage is bad enough that it may be totaled. Without seeing the fiberglass on the inside, I would assume it has been weakened pretty badly. If they are not involved.... depending on how bad the damage is, perhaps everything could be re-inforced from the top/bottom so boat is usable? Tricky situation since the rudder get a lot of force when at speed and turning. Not sure if I am looking at it right but it seems that the picture was taken from the transom/rear of the boat (since your prop bubble is toward the front of the pic). Looking at the bottom damage and the direction the gelcoat is split, it would almost seem like the strike happened in reverse? Total speculation but it would seem that the damage would be caused by the bottom of the rudder hitting something hard and being torqued toward the bow direction, causing the fiberglass/gelcoat to split open toward the back and be pushed up/toward the bow at the edge of the prop bubble. The direction of the split is what makes me think that the bottom of the rudder was pushed forward, not backwards. Again, no idea if that is correct but if an insurance adjuster looks at the damage, all these things would be considered as they decide if the damage is being covered and also while the compare the damage to whatever you tell them happened.
  14. Wow, really sucks you got stuck with that issue. I would be careful dealing with insurance as they do NOT cover pre-existing issues. I believe they would only cover it if the damage happened while you owned and where driving the boat....so you may wanna consider that before calling them. Good luck!
  15. Salt water use

    They make a solution called "salt away" (probably others available too) that you can run thru the system when you flush it, supposed to remove all the residual salt, prevent buildup and corrosion on the internal parts. http://www.saltawayproducts.com/EngineFlushPage.htm I would agree with jtryon that you want to do everything possible to keep water out of the engine compartment. Regardless tho, I would also coat the engine, mounts, etc with something good to prevent corrosion (fluid film?) and also flush the bilge after every use and then use a fan to dry it out once the boat is home. Every salt boat I have ever seen shows the most wear/damage in the engine compartment

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