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InfinitySurf

Centurion
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InfinitySurf last won the day on October 9

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About InfinitySurf

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Norman - Denver, NC
  • Interests
    Surfing & Lake time with family/friends

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

Recent Profile Visitors

2,921 profile views
  1. yea like H2O said, the official Centurion & Supreme Owners facebook page is VERY active
  2. They still look brand new....since doing the wetsand and other work on the CF vents, UV no longer fades them after a day on the water. My guess is that this will last another full summer and then it will be time to refinish them again tho it shouldnt be as extensive since mine where in pretty bad shape last time around. The clear coating was the key to making the carbon fiber pop and protect it from fading. Just make sure to do multiple light coats of the clear coat and let it cure a good 48hrs before you handle them, even after 24hrs if I handled them I was leaving fingerprints in the clear coat....tho I may have been putting the clear coats on a little too thick. Feel free to contact me if any questions once you get started on this
  3. Infinity surf tabs are da bomb. You may need an A-plate to clean up the goofy side (Infinity can build/sell you an A-plate or double wing plate)...but also having some list helps clean up the wave face whether you are running suckgate or surf tabs. Not talking a full on list, just couple hundred difference which can be done using people sitting on surf side, lead biased to that side, etc. On my Enzo, I use my Ramfill to list approx 250lbs on reg side and more like 400lbs on goofy side due to prop rotation.
  4. Tanks are glassed into the boat...definitely not metal, think they are plastic? You don't need to winterize, just lube gates and cycle them a few times and then leave them in open position after making sure you tilted bow up to drain any residual water.
  5. VERY easy to clean. Roll it up and toss it out of the boat, then use hose to spray it off. Sometimes I will use a car brush with some soap to clean/scrub each side before hosing it off. Mine still looks brand new on my 2014 as well, very durable flooring. I also really like that any dirt goes to the bottom and the flooring looks clean even when its technically not. If you drop a towel/etc on it, wont get wet/dirty.
  6. Yea, you need the software from dealer loaded onto a clear USB drive (no other programs or files on it), they should not charge anything to get you the software since Fineline sends it too them. Does seem likely that it needs an update since your behavior only happens when booting up, usually if your screen is going bad it will start "ghosting" or wont react to your touch commands. Behind your helm, there is a wire that should be hanging down near steering wheel rack with USB end. There is a process on how to upload the software, little different when you have 2 screens as you update them both separately. Pretty easy really and if dealer do it or tell you how, someone here can explain.
  7. x2 on the Deckadence, love it! If you look on WakeGarage, you will see some options to DIY flooring that looks like Deckadence without the high price tag, called Miner's Moss.
  8. You have the old style Drainmaster valves. If your boat is still under warranty, they will convert you to the Valterra valves on fill and drain since it was basically a recall and they are known to fail. Valterra's have better gears in them. Converting to Valterra requires some changes (its not plug and play on the fill side tho on the drain side they are) so you may want to just get new Drainmasters for now. Here is a link to place that sells them with correct plug. On fill side the conversion parts are required since the new Valterra valves will likely hit the bottom of the seat when up due to the angle, least they did on my boat. https://drainmaster.com/marine/products/mini-view?tid=27&=Apply
  9. Ramfill Problems

    The Valterra valves seat against the gaskets pretty well, they do that to prevent leaking thru the valve. Manually opening mine, I notice it seems pretty tight to first break the seal since there are thick rubber gaskets on each side of the gate valve but the motors seem to have no issue doing it. Did you use the trailer mode to operate the gates or just tried to open/close manually? You hear of occasional issues with the Valterra Valves needing to be replaced, pretty easy to replace them and not too expensive once you are out of warranty especially if you buy the ones with the wiring harness for the Centurion.
  10. If you want any pics of how my 2014 was done, let me know
  11. I have not heard of needing new PDM and wiring harness for a 2014 with Ramfill since the extra PnP transom bags have to be wired separately.... all the 2014 models I have seen including my own have 2 rocker switches that are installed above where ignition is and below throttle. (touchscreen controls all the other ballast, its just those 2 bags that for whatever reason they were unable to get programming to work if you also have Ramfill). There is a bunch of wiring to hook pumps up to power and the 2 rocker switches and on mine it does tie into the PDM mounted on back seat in engine bay, so maybe its all that stuff and dealer just hasn't done an install on a 2014 to know exactly.
  12. Homemade "suckgate" success story.

    Hein is on FB, I see occasional posts on the Centurion/Supreme FB page, you could try to message him
  13. His boat does not have Quickfill tanks....he is talking about draining his PnP bags that use pumps
  14. Winterization

    I have a 2014 SV244 that I do all my own maintenance, mine is still under warranty till March 2020 and I have done all my own work since 2016. You can do you own work when under warranty without risking issues, the key is to let the dealer do the 25hr service since that is required by PCM on engine warranty and they check a lot of misc things like alignment, etc. After that when you do work, you want to keep a detailed log as well as any receipts for oil, filters, etc. In your manual there is a log that you can write down everything and I have a file folder that I keep all receipts as well as scan them in so I also have a digital file. This will help you if anything comes up on warranty as well as help resale since you will have proof that boat was properly maintained. Winterizing is not that hard, just follow the steps in the right order and make sure you find all the drain plugs (there is one below the v-drive that can be hard to see). Personally after draining all the water from my engine, I then pump 5-6 gallons of the pink RV anti-freeze into the system (Lowes or Wal-Mart carry it). I use a transfer pump cause once the system is drained of water it does not always like to prime itself and start pulling fluid back thru it unless there is some pressure to start the fluid between the intake and the impeller, mine will suck air so the pump just makes it simple for me. Some people then drain the AF too, personally I leave it in the system since its supposed to help prevent corrosion but a lot of that depends on where you live and if you have high humidity. You don't have to put the AF thru the engine (many don't even in really cold environments like MN and Canada) but if you will not be doing that, I recommend that after you remove all the drain plugs you hook up the boat and tow it around for 10mins to shake any residual water looks from the nooks/crannies...also remove the impeller since it can trap water in the impeller housing. I also use a shop vac and as I remove each drain plug I put the nozzle against the hole to remove as much water as possible but main reason is that I figure that suction will remove any misc buildup or debris that may have been sucked up from the lake. (I have heard of people getting freeze damage after removing drain plugs cause one of the holes was blocked with debris and didn't allow all the water to drain out). Especially your first year you may wanna check your insurance policy and verify if you have freeze coverage or not, most insurance companies provide that as optional rider to your policy, I am with SkiSafe. Its worth also verifying what their process is IF you have to use it (some only cover if you took the boat to a "pro" to have it winterized, mainly cause they can then subrogate against the pro's insurance policy)....but this again is why you want to keep receipts/records of everything you buy and do. Since I live in NC and we ride till Thanksgiving each year.... then from Dec to March we usually get out once a month with wet-suits, I don't change my impeller or fuel filters till around April when the new season is about to start. You want to do the oil/filter change for sure tho to have fresh oil in there for the layup, newer engines don't need to have the cylinders fogged. Here is a good thread on winterizing....
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