Jump to content

InfinitySurf

Centurion
  • Content count

    1,209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    98

InfinitySurf last won the day on June 5

InfinitySurf had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

262 Excellent

1 Follower

About InfinitySurf

  • Rank
    Take the Keyboard

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Norman - Denver, NC
  • Interests
    Surfing & Lake time with family/friends

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Enzo 244

Recent Profile Visitors

2,466 profile views
  1. Finally got a chance to get the final after pics of the Gatorbak bunks on my trailer yesterday when we went out surfing. Really happy with these
  2. I have seen multiple threads where people upgraded their ballast system to bigger bags with reversible pumps like the ballast puppy. It may require drilling some holes under boat for the new ballast pumps as well as holes for the vent lines, depending on the setup you currently have but would make things much easier/faster for you. Money well spent if it gives more time surfing @Wylie_Tunes can also set you up with a full ballast system and is very knowledgeable about these boats and what you would need.
  3. Do you have the Clarion 303 head unit? I have a 2014 SV244 and the head unit went bad and was replaced under warranty in 2017. I would also check all connections to be sure they are tight and/or do not have any corrosion. Assume you turned everything off and reset the computer. Guess its possible you could need a software update too
  4. I get some of that "clicking" when fully ballasted and pulling up surfer if steering wheel is turned at all, it happens from take off, up till about 4-5mph or you straighten the wheel. Its always done that on my boat. (It does not do it if I do not have ballast full). As far as pulling to the right, something is not right. It should not do that tho I suppose if you are running a hard list for surfing that may change things tho I would still think it should not pull hard to one direction like that. Wonder if your steering cable came off center or got tweaked somehow. Also, have you checked your rudder to make sure it didn't get struck, no loose screws, etc? Mine has a stainless piece in the rudder where you can "tune" it too account for steering pull tho I have never had to mess with mine. I believe you turn it toward the side that is pulling by using allen wrench to loosen/tighten. Do you grease your rudder packing? I do this yearly from inside the boat and give it a few shots.
  5. FYI....one thing I did that helped a lot. The Gatorbak comes in tight rolls, so before cutting it to size and doing my install, I laid them out on the new 2x6 bunks in the sun for the day to relax the rubber. I think it made the install go smoother. I took my time on the install to make sure both sides looked as straight as possible and used clamps to hold it in place while I drilled the holes for the screws. I placed a screw every 8" along each side. Install instructions were good and I cut the Gatorbak bunks 1/4" longer than the actual measurement between the end caps so the ends would be tight (I mention this cause I did not do that on the first one and ended up with 1/8" space no matter how tight I pulled and ended up going back and cutting down the 2x6 a little so it would turn out perfect). I also first pre-drilled/screwed off each end so ends would stay tight before screwing together the rest of the bunks on.
  6. I finally got a chance to install my Gatorbak bunks after having them sit in the garage since Feb. Turned out really nice, this stuff is high quality and seems like it will stand up well. I also replaced the 2x6 with pressure treated and decided to install new lag bolts (galvanized)....I may thru bolt a few of the connections later this summer. 1st 2 pics show the carpet on my 2014 Boatmate. It was getting pretty worn and had torn on one of the front bunks. One thing that bugged me about the carpet is that it collects debris and scratches my black hull no matter how carefully I load my boat. Also, the bunks stay wet for like 3 days after dunking the trailer. Next 2 pics show 3 of the 6 bunks installed (excuse the messy garage, I need to organize it)....I forgot to get final pictures with all the Gatorbak bunks installed since I dropped boat in water to do the work on trailer and after removing the old bunks found that the brackets on trailer had rust starting so I sanded/primed/painted all the brackets to stop the corrosion...this put me behind schedule so I was in a rush at very end to go pull the boat back out since it got dark on me. I will update final pics when I drop the boat in next time. Final 2 pics are of a 4ft bunk with the Gatorbak on it. Initially I did not order the end caps and was going to fabricate my own thinking I needed to do the 45 degree angles on the bunks like they came from factory but did not like how they turned out and also realized that the 45 degree angles were not needed, so I went ahead and ordered 12 of the end caps. I think it gives it a more finished look. The one thing I wish I had done was order the black color stainless screws, they were much more expensive than the regular stainless, guess they are not that noticeable tho. Total for Gatorbak was about $550. $453 for the pieces of Gatorbak I needed.....$72 for the 12 end caps plus the stainless screws. I forgot what I paid for the new pressure treated 2x6 and the new galvanized lag screws and washers. All in all tho I think it was well worth it since its not something I should have to worry about again, no more wet carpet bunks against the hull for days risking blistering the gelcoat and no more scratching my black hull.
  7. Just as a side note, did you check and test your batteries to be sure they are all good? (I check water level in Spring/Fall and top off using distilled water), a charger/maintainer will keep them in good shape. Many computer issues are caused by low/bad battery so wanted to mention that in case they are original batteries in your boat. Another possibility (tho seems more remote based on what you posted)....if you removed batteries for the layup could be the computer reset itself somehow when they were re-installed and in the dealer settings turned off the CATS and Ramfill settings since they were options in 2014. Just speculating tho it seems most likely that it just needs an update/re-flash. In meantime tho after testing batteries to be sure they are still good, I would disconnect the batteries for 20-30mins and then re-connect and see if that fixes anything. That may reset your system. I think in dealer settings there may be a "factory reset" as well but don't remember for sure). Code is 91 to access dealer settings. On Valves, you know you can manually open/close them right? Maybe they need to be manually cycled to free them up....have someone cycle valves in trailer mode while you are looking at them to see what they do. When my boat is out of water, I use the trailer mode to open the valves and leave them open till ready to dunk boat again. It keeps them from getting stuck and less historic failures for others from what I have read. I still have the original Drainmaster valves on my 2014 SV244 boat with no failures but I lube them every few outings with a water resistant silicone (then I cycle them open/closed a few times on trailer to spread the lube) and I also use the trailer mode to open the fill/drain valves every time I pull the boat and leave them open while in garage. When on water, I also fill Ramfill with GPS set on 12-13mph so not as much water pressure against the gates when they open/close since my thot process is that they will last longer that way rather than having water pressure pushing against valves while they open/close going 18mph (I have new Valterra valves for when I need to replace them since its a matter of time.... just have not had a reason to replace them yet tho I will at some point since very happy with this boat and intend to keep it another 4-5yrs).
  8. I have had one for couple years so not sure about the new differences in the boards. Its a great, stable board for kids tho and something my daughters and friends enjoy using
  9. You probably need a computer update.... Dealer can get the software and update using USB thumb drive.
  10. I have ZR409 so little different than your 450. I start with 4 quarts and check, usually end up with right around 4.5-4.75 quarts. The last thing you want is too much oil. I think if I were you, I would call PCM directly to confirm. As long as your dipstick is right, that is what I would go by. My 2014 PCM owners manual says its for the ZR409 and the ZR450. On page 51 (engine fluid capacities) it says that for both engines, including a new filter, start with 4 quarts and go from there. If that is correct and has not changed between 2014-2018 then there is way too much oil in crankcase with 6 quarts.
  11. I know the RI got updated buttons so this may be irrelevant to your boat, I had an issue on my SV244 where the ignition button was not working and had it warrantied/replacd. A year later, started happening again so I replaced all 4 of the helm buttons (Ignition; Start; Stop; Horn). So far that has fixed the issue. (1st pic is the factory buttons....2nd pic is the updated buttons). I bought the 19mm buttons off Amazon and used a step bit to drill them out to the right size. It very possible/likely its something else causing the no start (like the neutral safety switch or something in throttle)....but figured I would mention my faulty buttons just in case. I assume you checked your kill switch too, mine was still working but if you touched it, it would kill power so I replaced that too just to be safe. May be worth checking connections to the kill switch and the start button to be sure nothing vibrated loose and/or no corrosion creating a bad contact.
  12. Prop for 2007 Centurion

    Here is a thread on props for your boats. Sounds like 1631 & 1579 are the go to....
  13. Prop for 2007 Centurion

    ACME has a lot of data on props, if you call they will ask about how much ballast, elevation you are at, what engine you have, etc to recommend which would be best since you want to be in spec not only on size....but on rpm so you dont overrev the engine. Usually its recommended that you be able to get within 200rpm of your max rpm. ACME also has guarantee where if you order a prop and dont like it, you can swap it out free for another one, just pay for shipping charges. Best pricing for props I have found is Nettle Props in Austin, TX...they also do good repairs on damaged props if you need that in future for any reason. Wakemakers.com also has some good prices on props. I have a pdf document that has a list of recommended props from Fineline for years 2007-2015. Wont let me attach but I could email to you if you want. For 2007/2008 Avy C4....recommended surf prop is a #537. Its a 13.5 dia X 16" pitch with .105 pitch. Wakemakers has it for $429. Regular prop is #497 which is 13.5 dia X 17.5 pitch. The #1579 is also 13.5" diameter....pitch is 14.25. Also $429 on Wakemakers. Based on that info....you will want to look at your hull to be sure that 1235 is not pitting your gelcoat since the diameter is 14.5". If prop is too close to your hull and someone didn't have a after market prop bubble installed or a metal plate to protect the hull, prop blades can remove the gel. I think 3/4" is the closest recommended. My guess is that a prop with 14.5 diameter will struggle if you add a good amount of ballast and mostly surf. I am sure others with that boat will pipe up with what they have tho
  14. Side note about using a suck gate. Its important for it to be at correct height compared to water once you are at speed....in my experience, roughly 4" below water level when at rest works well most of the time and if you only have one place to put it on hull and its too deep, you can "bring it up" by adjusting your list. If you put the shaper too low, the water will flow over the gate and your wave will not be as clean and you wont have the push you could. Too high and you will have a big rooster tail of water. When using my Nauticurl suck gate (like that style since the flap is at rear, so it can be further back on hull than many other brands and also reasonable price compared to some and very well made),. I had the rear gate portion between 12-16" forward of the back transom. Listing will give you a great wave at lower rpm than using a suck gate since less ballast and the gate adds resistance obviously. On my boat (SV244), I felt like with the Nauticurl, I got a larger wave with more push due to being able to sink the hull with more ballast. Listing my rpm was roughly 3200....with suck gate and full ballast, 3400-3500 @ 11mph at 800ft elevation, PCM ZR409.
  15. Gel Coat Mismatch?

    Can you post pictures so we can see the color and shade difference? I assume they compounded and polished the repair along with area around it so you are comparing base gel to base gel.... if new area was done next to existing gel with some oxidation, etc....that could be causing a difference tho if a reputable shop, they would know this already and you would think have taken steps to disprove. Anyway, Here is a link to resize pictures so its small enough for you to post here so we can see: https://resizeimage.net/ My suggestion with dealer so you have the boat for summer and you have some protection (also gives time for Centurion/Spectrum to fix the color match), is to either hold back a percentage till re-done by them later (without knowing how much they are charging you, maybe hold back roughly 15%?). This way they are paid for their work and out of pocket costs yet have some incentive to follow thru later.....AND/OR, get something in writing from them saying they will re-coat this fall when season is over and do it for free....or for the balance of the amount you agree on to hold back on now. From their point of view, they did the work and since they did not mix the gelcoat, the question is does the color match fall on them. Seems like probably not....tho I know that is small consolation for you since it doesn't match and naturally that is what you expected after taking the steps you did to ensure that. Some colors are harder than others to match. Flip side of that, is most shops I know of would put a "dab" of the new gel on the boat to make sure it matches before doing all that work, guess they assumed it would match and just went with it. I got some gel from Centurion to do some small repairs to my black hull (Imedge Black) and it matched my gel perfectly (mine is a 2014 so it also had to be made after the fact). Does Spectrum have some kind of match guarantee? Another option may be to also send pics to Spectrum and ask them to send you some extra color so you can "manually" do some playing around with the formula to get it too match, if its lighter then Spectrum should know what color to add to darken it up.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.