Troy. R

Unfortunately, not a clue as to the problem you’re experiencing. You should still be under factory warranty though.

Do you have a local Centurion or Supreme dealer? That might be something they have to order from the tower manufacturer. If not, you can always call Centurion/Supreme direct. (209) 384-0255

That’s interesting. I don’t have experience with the Chinese product, but I would also be interested in saving roughly 2/3 of the cost. What is the return policy on the Chinese product? If you can return it if you’re not happy with the quality pre-install, I’d take a flier on it personally.

I guess it’s worth a shot on the tabs. Just make sure the tabs you get aren’t bent to match the contoured of the Opti-V hull. The tabs for a 2017 ri or a Supreme S238 should work since those boats have a similar hull design to yours. On the swim platform, you’re probably right. Without ballast, the platform on the newer Centurions/Supremes sit pretty high out of the water. Probably 5” or so I’d guess. There was a guy on here that did raise his platform like 10-12yrs ago. You might be able to find that thread with the search feature.

If you look at the PDF attachment in the first post of the thread link below, there is a picture of the divider reinforcements that I had on my old Avy.

Through-bolt aluminum U-channel to the dividers for reinforcement. Otherwise, the ballast bags in the lockers can push/bend the dividers and dislodge them.

There are actually 4 of them in your boat. 2 large and 2 smaller forward. You can try calling centurion. They might be able to point you to a vendor. Otherwise, you’ll have to make them. I’d use plastic as thick as the U-channel on the floor will hold. I’d also reinforce them with U-channel aluminum on the engine side. 209-384-0255

I’ve had good luck getting PCM parts from these guys: https://skidim.com/

(209) 384-0255

I’d try calling Centurion directly.

I haven’t heard much in terms using a wake shaper on an Enzo. My opinion is that you probably don’t need it. That Enzo hull likes to lean. Start by filling your Enzo sac on the port side, keeping the starboard empty, and running at 10.5 mph. You’ll probably end up needing more weight, but that will give you a good baseline to start from. Adding weight to the rear/under the port side seats will make the wave bigger. You can play with the speed too (I wouldn’t recommend over about 11), but if I recall correctly, 10.5 is what most of us were running with Avys/Enzos back in the day.

I had luck finding a cover for my Avalanche with double-up tower back in the day with GreatLakesSkipper. They sell overstock OEM parts. SewLong out in Utah might be able to help you. If not, you can call Centurion and ask them who they used as their cover manufacturer back in ‘08. 209-384-0255

I agree and meant to make a similar comment. I think it's a power issue more than a location issue as well. That said, I love my observer storage and would probably try to find another location. Especially considering that in that boat you're probably going to end up running bags under the seats and taking up that storage. Maybe try running the 10" above the dash by itself with your current amp bridged and see how that sounds? That is, unless you like the sub in the kick panel idea for aesthetics. In that case, just pair the sub and amp properly and you should be good to go. All that said, in full disclosure, I am by no means an audiophile. As long as it sounds good while sitting in the boat hanging out and I can hear it clearly while surfing, I try to stay out of the weeds on the audio stuff.

My understanding is that the area behind the kick panel is not sealed. I do recall someone making a thread on here where they cut a square hole in the kick panel, made a box, and fiberglassing it back in place. That general area is where they put the sub in the new Supremes and Centurions. My ZS232 has a 12" Wetsounds sub there that is completely exposed on the back side when you lift the driver's side bow back rest, so I assume it is a free air sub. It was factory installed, so I don't know the model number, unfortunately. If you wanted to go that route, I'm sure you could call Wetsounds and get that model #/some recommendations.

Maybe something like this? https://www.cutandcouple.com/product/material-suction-and-discharge-hose/?attribute_pa_hose-i-d=4&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoeemBhCfARIsADR2QCsnNVPBAdd86cnrf4nd568rTae4yZNneciL7hMEgsLSC9F14A-YVtsaAh5CEALw_wcB

You can cut a hole in the kick panel in front of the driver. Others have done it. It's fairly thick fiberglass and kind of a pain to cut through from what I understand, but can be done. It looks clean when done as well. If you go that route you'll also want to consider whether or not you're going to build an internal enclosure or go with a free-air sub. As an alternative, there is actually space above that kick panel/behind the dash for a sub. It's tight, but I had a 10" sub in a box in that location in my '07 Avy.

Do you have a Nautique dealer, Centurion dealer, or other service shop that works on PCMs closer? It’s probably a sensor or something, but you’ll have to pull the DTC off the ECM to really know what’s going on.

Are you referring g to the rear vents? maybe try Bakes Marine? I believe they at least used to sell them.

Understood. Does your boat have quick surf tabs? I believe the later 226’s had tabs. That would make a difference. Also, think about person placement/weight. That can be a factor as well. If there is too much “person ballast” in the main cabin area, you might need to have a few jump in the bow.

If I understand correctly, you’re in a 226. If my understanding is correct, that boat needs to lean, so you will want to start with filling only the surf side ballast.

take a look at page 68 in this doc. https://pcmengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/2016-EX343_ZR409_ZR450_XR550_XS550-Owners-Manual-min.pdf According to this, there are no block drains. only exhaust manifolds and a few hose removals.

Nice! Also, “Gilbert” was an autocorrect! 😆😆

Try checking PCM’s website. They have a library of older manuals on their site.

Has anyone replaced the impeller and/or FCC filter on a ZS212/232 or S220/240 yet? If so, how difficult is it? Does anyone have a video? Im due on my ZS232, and my dealer wants $450 to do it! I’m a very handy guy, but just didn’t feel like doing it on this boat until I got this quote. I always did all of the service on my last boat (‘07 Avalanche). I’d love to get some feedback from anyone who has done this service.

You should have a ballast puppy impeller pump to fill and an aerator pump to empty. When filling, you’ll know it’s full when water starts spitting out of the overboard vent line (not sure which side on your boat). When emptying, it should also shoot out from an overboard, and it’s done when it stops. The drain pump should be located on the rear of the tank. I’m not sure where the fill pump is in your boat. I assume in the engine compartment.