Hein

Boat sold last year. Now starting work on our Ri245 and posting about that at the Centurion Facebook group. All the best, Hein

boat has been sold. Excited for our 2021 Ri245 to arrive next year.

https://www.onlyinboards.com/2019-Centurion-Fi25-for-sale-Hood-River-Oregon-117655.aspx

I have some extra brackets for mounting the rear view camera display to the dash of a newer Centurion. Should fit most models. I am happy to send those to you. PM me with your address. Our Fi25 is for sale because we have ordered a new Ri245 for next year. Please PM me for details and price. All the best, Hein

I've got the stock tanks that came out of our 2008 Enzo. But would also suggest bags. Take a look at the build thread I did on our boat to for some ideas. All the best, Hein

You need to remove the prop and V-drive coupler flange to pull the shaft. It's a taper fit so a puller will be needed. The rudder may need to come off to get the shaft out. Probably not a bad idea to get a shaft alignment done at the same time. And replace the strut bushings. Not the easiest job since you are upside down working in the bottom of the boat with limited access. All the best, Hein

3M 90 spray adhesive. It's a contact cement so spray both surfaces, wait a minute, then press together. Works great on carpet. All the best, Hein DIYvan

The camera is designed to be mounted on the rear of an automobile so it won't be effected by moisture. We drip water on it and get it wet when switching riders. We did have a problem with the cable so the Amazon seller sent us both a replacement camera and cable at no extra charge. There is some risk of the display getting wet but we tend to be out it fair weather. It stays dry. We are very happy with the setup. You can pan the screen up/down so very easy to center the display vertically depending on what we are doing behind the boat. One reason for mounting the camera where I did was because it was easy to route the cable to it. All the best, Hein

Hello drance, Sorry you weren't able to reach me. Please call or email me directly. All the best, Hein@DIYvan.com 541 490 5098

Sorry I missed your posts Packrat and bomoseen avy. The bow bag was under the seats. There can be some sharp fiberglass under there so we smoothed that out and added some EVA pads to protect the bag from punctures. I added another pump to fill it and also had the same pump plumbed to a hose bib in the back so we could use it to fill a bag we laid on the back seat. We always ran with all bags full and boat sat mostly level unless we had a bunch of crew. They would sit on the surfside. Rubrail would barely touch the water at the rear corner while surfing. I made my own suck wedge and it was placed just ahead of the sideswipe. That really helped clean up the lip of the wave. below is a photo of it installed. I still have two of the suck wedges that I would sell for $75 each. They are small and float but we never had one come loose. Here is a collage of how it looks and is constructed. I would be happy to CNC the parts so you can get the handle and build it yourself. $50 for the parts. If interested, send me a text or email me at Hein@DIYvan.com All the best, Hein DIYvan 541 490 5098

A few posts up are the drawings I released to wakemakers. All the best, Hein

Beautiful boat. You can't go wrong with a Centurion. You might look at the Fi but either one will have you smiling on the wave these machines are capable of throwing up. Make sure it has RamFill so you can easily fill and empty the ballast. All the best, Hein

Great having a Bluetooth interface for the audio system but phone would run out of power after a few hours on the water. Updated the phone holder to one with a wireless charger. I cut the post off the back of the holder, sanded it smooth and used VHB tape to attach it to the dash panel. Mounted the 12V to 5V converter inside the dash with some more VHB. Connected wires to positive post and negative buss bar in front of dash located behind starboard front seat back. With a 5A fuse to protect the circuit. Works great. All the best, Hein New phone holder mounted. Here is the one I used: https://amzn.to/2McGEJo VHB tape to secure it to the dash panel. Holes are for factory supplied holder which I removed. Below. Drok power supply mounted behind dash with more VHB tape. This 12v to 5v converter: https://amzn.to/2VLuDdq

Thank you for sharing the settings. Will give those a try next time we ride. Kim just released our board rack supports to our Ebay store. This was a CAD project completed by a paid summer intern we had working for us last summer. Locally made right here in Oregon. They are designed to be mounted to common unistrut which is convenient because then they can be adjusted up and down as needed to accommodate thickness of board and the length of the fins. All the best, Hein https://www.ebay.com/itm/Board-Racks/143259723364

One more photo of the rear view camera in use. I'm not sure the image wouldn't be better without the glare film but it's a keeper none-the-less. Driver is totally able to monitor the rider while still looking ahead. You can also see that we don't use cruise control due to the constantly varying magnitude and direction of the current in the Columbia river. GPS based speed control will absolutely not work for us. We ride by the using the tachometer. A smidge over 3600 rpm seems perfect for us. GPS speedometer can be as much as 3mph off depending on whether we are going upstream/downstream or at some angle across the flow. We were seeing 2-3 mph while floating at idle. If anyone else wants to try one then I would be honored to machine some of the brackets I used to install it. They are mounted with 3M VHB tape so should be removable with no damage the dash itself. Below are a couple photos of the bilge alarm install. The float switch is on the ground side of the alarm so just needed one wire going back. The alarm is secured under the dash with VHB and power wire goes forward from there to the positive post where the breakers are. I made an inline fuse holder with two flag style crimp terminals and stuck a 3A ATC fuse in. I ran the switch wire to the rear from the dash via the space behind the panel next to the driver (where throttle is located) until it emerged under the seats in back. Then just ran it along the back of the under seat storage towards the rear and then down into the bilge near the V-drive. Other lead from switch is grounded to the engine. I used the same wire routing for the rear view camera cable. Below. Fuse holder behind dash. Next couple photos. Buzzer is up under here: I like to keep the bilge ventilated with a box fan when the boat is in storage so moisture can dry out. I open up a seat back in front and also the fuel tank sender hatch. Flow-thru air comes out in those locations. The 18x18 furnace filter on top of the fan keeps dust from being blown in. Fan runs 24/7. All the best, Hein