Bigcatpt

This is an interesting situation for sure. I am not sure I fully understand your options..... You could take the $47K payout and walk? BTW $47 K for a 2009 is more than fair. Hard to beat this deal. Or is there an option to take the payout and still get the boat to fix and keep? If so, at what cost? If taking the boat means no payout then I would take my money and run. If there is an option for some payout and get the boat then it is worth exploring. The boat for sure still has value if YOU wanted to get it and fix it back up to be good for YOU. But only if you want to keep it personally. It would be a really hard to sell with a salvaged title knowing it had sunk without taking a big financial hit on the sale. You are certainly not going to get $47K out of it used, sunk, and salvaged when you sell it. Did you see what the "fix it list" was for $35k? That seems crazy high if they already got the motor running with a new computer. For sure the shop is being aggressive on the $75 per day fee. Do they have that in writing anywhere for it to be legal? I would ask this question on the Official Centurion/Supreme boat owners Facebook group. Lots more eyes and ears over there to give you good advice.

A sad and happy day all at the same time. I watched my Avy drive away almost exactly 2 years ago. It didn't hurt quite as much since I already had the new SV244 in the garage. It will be a long wait for you til spring but how exciting to be getting a Ri230!!!!! Pumped for you!

Hi Sean. We have used an Inland Surfer Squirt as our 'boat board" for a long time. It is a great all around board for a very wide weight range. The thing I like most about it is that is has a very thin profile (3/4") and is not very buoyant. This makes it easier for newbies to flip the board up against their feet for getting up. Thicker more buoyant boards are much harder to get flipped up against the bottom of your feet to start. This board will fit in most board racks because it is only 3/4 inch thick. The fins in Squirt are Inland Surfer proprietary fins. You can probably find them on their website or call them and have one sent to you. They are not cheap. You will only need 1 more fin. 2 fins is plenty to lock that board down and make it very stable since they are about 2 1/2 inch tall fins. Then you can switch to only 1 fin to loosen things up a bit. I am not really sure how the Squirt will compare to the CWB Ride. The Squirt is definitely not one of Inland Surfers best or nicest boards. It is on the cheaper low end entry level boards in their line. Is is composite molded like a wakeboard and is not one of their nicer epoxy infused surfboards like most of their line. It is super flat with very sharp side edges which make it very fast but not always the most forgiving with catching front edges and sinking the nose. I keep mine primarily for the purpose of teaching new riders and then we progress them onto something better. Not sure if this is the right board to really progress someone's riding to the next level though. Your mileage may vary.

Get an Enzo sac. Fill it up on surf side. Get the rub rail touching the water on surf side. Most the passengers on surf side or back seat. No more than person in the bow. Set speed to 10.7 to 11.0. Enjoy.

What Troy said! He knows his stuff. You can play around with the wake shaper if you want and probably get a pretty decent wave. But trust me.....and the other 100's of Avy owners that have done both ways....... list that thing heavily to surf side and you will be blown away how big and beautiful the wave will be.

Have the dealer hook it up to the computer. They can get the actual engine hours that way.

The Avalanche is a great boat. Unmatched wave for those early 2000's. You would expect the interior to be rough for that age boat. You are looking $3k-$6K for a new interior. Is the paint really faded or is there just oxidation on the gel coat? If it is just oxidation you can get that bad boy back to a mirror shine with quite a bit of elbow grease and the right buffing kit. Are there scratches and dings and gouges? If it is just oxidation that is not an issue. A new steering cable is a couple hundred bucks and can be a do it yourself project. How does it run? How is the engine and transmission? With almost 1200 hours it has been well used and loved. Hopefully if you are buying it from a friend you would know if it has any mechanical issues. Bottom line you could replace the steering cable for a couple hundred bucks and be on the water enjoying the heck out of a great boat for around $20K. You can replace interior vinyl and buff out the oxidation as time and money permits. I sold my 2003 Avy pre-covid to my brother for $25K with about 800 hrs. I could have got more out of it locally had I not sold it to him. It needed some vinyl work but was otherwise in really mint condition. He has since replaced the vinyl and could easily get $30+ for it now in todays market. So I would say that at $23,500 the boat has already been marked down for the overall used condition of the boat. Especially considering boats of that age are selling for at least $5k over what they were pre covid.

Not unusual to have hairline cracks in the gelcoat on corners and around screw holes on these older models. These look a little more substantial than hairline cracks. I would do a little deeper investigation to see if they are deeper than gelcoat. If it is only gelcoat then its no big deal and only cosmetic. Fix them if you want.... or not. If it is a crack in the fiberglass then that would be a deal breaker for me.

I think if you chose the one with the 343 engine at your elevation you are ALWAYS going to be wishing you had the bigger motor. I boat at 4600 to 6000 elevation and bought an Avalanche with the smaller motor. We figured it out and had to have the weighting just right all the time. It worked but we always were surfing at full throttle. For this reason get the bigger motor. I also agree that 2 year newer boat with Ramfill and CATS will hold its value way better over time. I now have a 2015 SV244. The Ramfill is awesome and the CATS allows you to really adjust and dial in your wave on both sizes on the fly without having to move people or fill and empty ballast. You have a tough choice...... Motor vs newer/Ramfill/CATS. If it was me I would wait until you find the 2014 with the 409 or 450 with CATS and Ramfill. Don't settle. Be patient.

Troy... Great detailed info man!

What Troy R said above. Spot on!!!! The weight, the lean, everything. Switchblade will help all of that. Ditch the shaper. Learn to love the lean! No more that one hottie in a bikini up front.

Fill up Ramfill and PNP's on your surf side and start there. That should create a nice wave. If you really want it to POP then get 500# of weight bags and put 1/2 in each rear locker as far back as you can get them. You may need a little bow weight at that point to get you up to surf speed. Surf between 10.7 and 11.2 GPS speed. You should be good to go with that set up. Good luck.

That really sucks! Sounds like there are a lot of issues that need to get taken care of with the dealer. What are you hoping to accomplish by signing up on a Centurion forum to tell us about your friends boat that is having issues?

If it is your shaft packing that is leaking too much you may find this old thread helpful....if nothing more for a good laugh!

Matt, You have a great boat that will throw a great wave. But you are doing it wrong! Lose the suck gate! It does not need it. That boat likes to lean! 1100# in the surf side locker, 500# under surf side seats, Center ballast full. Minimal bow weight (maybe 125 # and wearing a bikini), stack all your people on the surf side and back seat toward the surf side. Perfect pass at 10.7 to 11.2 (GPS speed). Boom! Big and long wave with tons of push.... much more "playful". But seriously.....lose the suckgate and slump that thing. Suckgates are for hulls that are not shaped for surfing.