Jlagos

Considering you have blue drain plugs I assume you have a mercruiser black scorpion engine? Also I assume the stern is to the left of picture. If above are correct I would guess a recirculating pump or raw water pump.

Great boat. Welcome to the site.

Exhaust manifolds and risers can at times corrode in as soon as 10 years. I would guess that the water jacket (the holes within the exhaust manifold) that carries the water prior to dumping out exhaust is starting to fail. Theoretically not difficult to change and easily accessible. Typically 4 bolts to unscrew however they are often stubborn or unwilling to remove. If this is your problem, change both sides as they are both likely ready to fail. Hopefully others chime in to correct or confirm my suspicions.

On an older boat I would be concerned about the risers corroding over time but I would be surprised if this was happening in yours. What year is your boat? I would be inclined to think the head gasket is the problem. The overheating may have weakened the gasket.To check can do a compression check on all cylinders. If defective you'll find a cylinder(s) that have lower compression than the others. You may have to pull the cylinder head and inspect the head and block for cracks. I would bet on the gasket.

Look at the website for noco https://no.co They have 15% off code if you provide your email it'll save over $50. The genius are great in they`re ability to help prevent /reverse sulphation. Best, however to try and keep the batteries topped up when your done for weekend.

Take a look sporadically at https://greatlakesskipper.com they often carry some of the centurion boat accessories.

I have not been lucky enough to see a 7. Have you? They are a sweet. They sound cool as hell in the videos I've seen.

Awesome waves on both boats. David I guess you now need to change your profile to reflect the new boat!

I'm sure others will pipe in who know alot more than I but if i prefer to select the battery for the specific purpose. Cranking to start the engine, and a deep cycle for the radio and accessories when floating. I would imagine the deep cycle, as opposed to dual purpose, is able to tolerate the constant discharge/charge cycles better having thicker plates. Do your batteries sit sometimes in a partially discharged state or do you completely discharge your batteries prior to recharging? Both scenarios will kill batteries more quickly. I get the deep cycle with the highest Reserve capacity I can find locally. I have heard the Duracell batteries at Sam's are made by a very good brand (can't remember which manufacturer). I have thus far just purchased the flooded and have had pretty good results. I too do not have a huge sound system that requires multiple batteries and am often moving when on the water. Not sure why your batteries are lasting only 1.5 years I would have thought longer.

Dr. Nate, I had the same thing occur this weekend. Disc brakes on my trailer (surge not electric). I trailered about 1.5 miles and thought the trailer felt heavier than normal. Got to boat ramp and the brakes sizzled as I backed up into the water (crap!). Do you recall your problem and fix.

Your going to need to find Chevron/Havoline. Apparently PCM does not want a synthetic product in the unit. From what I've read that is what the technicians recommend. Havoline Automatic Transmission Fluid MD-3 Havoline® Automatic Transmission Fluid MD-3 is formulated for applications that call for the former DEXRON®-III H, MERCON®, and Allison C-4 fluids.

Harbor freight sells small funnels for very cheap

Yes, insert fluid extractor tube down dipstick whole and remove. Small funnel is much needed when refilling. I can't remember seeing any boat threads ever talking about filters.

Pretty much everything you mentioned is correct but I believe there are 2 fill caps for the vdrive (one on each side). You might get 1.2 quarts out of the transmission to put back in when you replace. I believe it holds 2 quarts when 1st filled. I think your always best to measure how much you suck out in order to know how much needs to go back in. Check fluid levels when the boat is afloat so the position on the trailer doesn't give a false reading. I dont remember if the dipstick is inserted all the way in or until the base of dipstick touches the housing.

Your correct about not needing changing the fluid in the vdrive portion of the "transmission". I have not heard or read of alot of problems by following their recommendation so I suspect it is not selling gimmick. As you read, check on the level and appearance to make sure no water has entered the unit. Always check for water entry if water surprisingly enters the bilge area and stays very elevated. If it sits in or under water, the water is more likely to slip past the seals/gaskets. You probably realize however that the transmission fluid does need changing. Just not the v-drive portion. Don't have a clear answer for your question Unfortunately.