Jlagos

The wire could be a couple of things. 1. Direct wire to the bilge pump in order to ensure that power is available if the bilge float is activated by water. It could also be coming from the ignition switch which allows the automatic charging relay to send a charging current to the house battery. It depends, a pic or brand of charging relay would help give further insight.

Do you have your boat at home? Start it on your driveway (with water i.e. fake- lake attached so you don't ruin the impeller) the night prior or first thing in the AM. Sounds like your carbureted. The last carbureted boat I had was the same as your friend. 2 often 3 pumps prior to turning the key to crank the engine. It typically started quickly. If not, I would move the throttle to a position that would rev the engine to about 2000 rpm and then crank (turn over) the engine. It would fire up (turn on) at that time. Like volazulum said make sure the batteries are in good shape to allow a good quick crank (turnover) as it requires the cylinders moving to pull gas in via the carburetor. Sometimes the position of the boat will affect some boats. If sitting for an extended time it will cause the gas to dissipate from the carburetor. Do you the carb needs cleaning/rebuilding. When you turn on the ignition and the electricity is sent to the dash board (such as when the dummy lights turn on in the car dashboard) do you here the fuel pump cycling/humming briefly.

The belt started squealing less than 6 months ago so we changed it. I was hoping it was happening again but when we opened the engine bay it was not emanating form the belts. The noise is located directly above the vdrive.

It appears the Vdrive portion of my powerplus vdrive transmission is failing. I developed a high pitched squeal while surfing. I can make it recur when I start to increase engine RPM. The vdrive fluid at the beginning of the season looked great but was low (about 1/2 qt) when I inspected it this past weekend. The gasket appears to be leaking. I presumed the staining of lubricant in the engine bay was a result of a faulty oil filter last year. It was a pain cleaning the engine oil in its entirety and I errantly assumed it was more of the same. Boy was I wrong. The transmission portion appears to be good. I will attempt the fix personally as most dealerships are probably packed with repairs etc and I don't want to be without a boat the remainder of the summer season. Anyone know if someone rebuilds these things. I found a replacement at Skidim that will require a couple of washers and an adapter bracket. The shape of the mounting bosses have changed. It does not appear to be complicated provided the bolts and nuts cooperate. Considering the vdrive oil is so easy to check I will likely do this at least every other weekend going forward. Complacency appears to have won this round.

Replace both that way you know you know have a fresh set. Also if your engine has a belt pulley check and make sure it appears to be working properly. They can at times be weak links.

I have had the same problem and added the support brackets but I also noticed that the bags were positioned to close the the engine bay. Shift them away from the engine and that should help.

Did you figure this out?

Hey volzalum, are you going deep cycle on both or a starting 31 and a deep cycle 31. When you stated to "keep them matching" are you referring to deep cycle vs starting or lead acid/ gel? I have both types starting/cranking and deep cycle.

I previously had the same when surfing (rpms 3000 for 20 mins). I changed the belt and it solved the problem. Of note, the belt looked perfectly fine. Could you associate your sound with a belt?

Excellent

What a nice looking vessel. The colors are sharp. I think every ski/ wakeboard/ surf boat has pulled or will pull a tube. Its not to exciting watching the little kids but when you whip around your friends everyones face starts grinning.

Maybe worth calling this place. Does this look correct? http://www.2040-parts.com/atwood-85841-master-cylinder-i1302468/

The 16 volts is that a direct read on the batteries or is that the reading on the dash? If directly on the battery, make sure the dash reads the same voltage, the connection at the engine can also corrode and should be checked. Can you get an voltage reading on the tach and speedometer directly?

http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/2913-warning-horn-goes-beepbeep/

I doubt it's the vdrive pressure triggering the beeping. I don't recall the 2004 drives triggering alarms because of the pressure sensor. That's the purpose of the vdrive light. However your probably correct about a sensor being amiss