Bigcatpt

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Welcome back Steedracer1! Glad to have you back in the centurion family. Unfortunately with the Fb group this place has kind of become a bit of a ghost town compared to the good old days. I used to spend way too many hours in this forum. Great group over on the FB group though. I still check in here pretty often to see what is happening though. Anyhow....welcome back.

Way to get after it! The Avy is a great boat! Did you run your vent/overflow lines to the opposite side so they don't siphon out when you are leaning over for surfing? Can both of the new pumps fill either rear sac? So if you are only filling one side both pumps can fill that side?

FWIW I run 550# of weight bags in my SV244. But I am a big guy and want/need a big surf wave. So I try to maximize the boats potential. I leave the weight in place for short trips to the lake but pull it out and put it in the truck bed for longer road trips.

The sideswipe is a deal breaker for me. WAY too loud! And the pipes run right through the side locker taking up valuable ballast space. If you want to do the mod and convert to FAE then it would not matter. Its only money. LOL Good luck!

That FS44 was a pretty decent price for the options and hours...... but that black top rail would be a no go for me. Way too hot to step on or rest your forearm on. But it sold anyway. All of those ZS look great. Troy will be a better source for info on those. Best of luck in your search. Keep looking til you find what you want.....its out there.

Troy great first hand info on the ZS! Sounds like a great boat! You mentioned the CATS for cleaning up the goofy wave on the 244. It is a game changer combined with the asymmetrical trim tab. Without those the goofy wave would be terrible. With it the wave is really good. Not quite as good as the port side....but still very good.

Exhaust tube? Like sideswipe exhaust? Do you have sideswipe? If so....I am sorry.....sideswipe is too loud and robs you of valuable ballast space. You will have to measure and custom design your sac.

This is the dimensions of my Avy sac for the port side for my 03 Avy. Main 22H X 24W X 52L Arm 10H X 24W X 62L You will want to place your fill, empty, vent holes according to your pump set up. Main… LXWXH = 27456 = 118.857 gallons = 992.46 pounds Arm.. LXWXH = 14880 = 64.416 gallons = 537.87 pounds Total cubic inches = 42336 = 183.272 gallons = 1530 pounds *Water 8.35 pounds per gallon

Both would be great boats. I have a 15 Sv244 so I can give you info about this boat. I have never been on the Supreme ZS232 so I can't tell you anything about that one. The 244 has a HUGE seating area in the main part of the boat. It is bigger than any other 24 foot boat because in this model the windshield has been pushed forward to make more cockpit seating room. However the bow will be smaller than a normal 24 foot boat. If you have more full sized bodies you will like this configuration. If you have more kid sized bodies they seem to really like the bow area and it is definitely smaller than standard on the SV244. Does this 244 have CATS? If so, this is a big deal compared to other boats in this age range! The CATS system makes the wave super easy to tune on both sides. What about Ramfill? Super fast to fill! Does it have the plug and play sacs as well? You will need them. Does it have a Quicksurf (flappers on the back)? They started putting them on this boat in 2015 but only some of them got it. Basically this system did not work well on this boat hull. It is pretty much worthless. I assume the Supreme has some sort of surf system being that new. It will do the same thing as CATS as far as being able to customize the wave on both sides and makes it easy to change sides easier. You have already considered a lot of important things. Budget, age, hours on motor, condition, warrantee, etc. Best thing to do now is look them both over really good. You will see what I mean about the size difference. Then go test drive them both. It should become much more clear what direction you are leaning after that.

A little bit of list or quite a lot to the Stbd side when you engage the throttle? What about while on plane? Can you confirm that your ballast tanks are empty on that side? No idea what your hard tank ballasts hold as far as weight. Most of the hard tanks are about 240 to 250 lbs. In order to get a good surf wave you are going to want about 1000 lbs in the surf side rear locker and about 350 to 500 lbs under the side seat on surf side. This will list the boat to the surf side and create a great wave. You want the surf side rub rail touching or almost touching the water at rest. If you want bigger wave put a couple hundred lbs of lead weight in the rear of the surf side locker. You will have to pay attention to waves and rollers on that side as they will roll over that corner into the boat. If you want to weight the boat evenly you will need to use some sort of shaper on the side of the boat or flappers on the rear of the boat. Many use them successfully. I could always get a bigger cleaner more powerful wave on my Avy leaning it and this way uses less gas. You probably have a right hand rotation prop which will naturally give you a better wave on the Stbd side. The port side will be a little harder to clean up but can be done. Adding an adjustable asymmetrical (A plate) trim plate on the rear will help significantly cleaning up the port side wave. You can confirm if yours is a right hand rotation by looking at the prop. It will either have a LH or RH stamped on it as well as the prop number and diameter and pitch. If you can get 1500# of weight on the surf side and none on the non surf side your eyes will pop out at how good the wave will be. The Avy throws an incredible wave. Oh.. and no bow ballast while surfing. The Avy doesn't need it unless you just can't get up to surf speed without it. GPS speed 10.7 to 11.0 is the sweet spot. Good luck.

Usually a continuous beep is an overheat alarm low water flow or some other critical error. What was the engine temp when it happened? Did it go into limp mode? It would not beep from just being overloaded. It would have to be an overheat issue or low water flow. Critical issues.

Sewlong custom covers in Salt Lake City can build you over the tower bimini. They are the best in the business and the company that many of the Centurion dealers use for their bimini's. Troy has given you good advice on the under the seat fat sac. I suggest ditching the shaper and lean that beast to the rub rail. @duramat can give you some more set up advice. He has his Elite V dialed in really good for surfing.

We are going to need a lot more info. What is your current ballast set up? Are you leaning it or using a shaper? How many people in the boat? How small/large is the person surfing? How skilled are they? What kind and size of board are you trying to use? Just for starters. Your boat will throw a nice surf wave if set up correctly. But it requires quite a bit of weight. It works best to lean that boat over so that the surf side rub rail is touching the water. Larger more buoyant boards are easier to catch and ride a small wave than smaller boards. Also the size and weight of the surfer makes a different. Heavier riders need bigger waves and bigger boards to ride rope-less.

It is to prevent hydrolock of your engine. The cooling of your engine sucks water up into it from the exhaust. Then you start it and bad things happen. If you are going to be sitting very long empty your ballast first.

I think very little changed between those 2 years. Most parts should be interchangeable.

Those early boats had a hodgepodge of ballast system from the factory. And who knows what any of the other owners had done to it. In reality you are probably going to be scrapping a bunch of it to get you a good functioning system anyway. It would be really helpful to see what you are working with for starters. Can you take some pictures and post them here? Take pictures of your switch panel, all pumps, thru hull intakes, tanks or fat sacs, valves, etc. They we can tell you what is useful and and what is not. Then you can build the ballast system from there. The good news is the Avy throws an amazing surf wave. To give you some additional information about how the ballast system usually worked in those years. There was a single water intake either in the bottom of the boat (near the T-handle plug) or in the rear of the boat under the swim step. The water would come in to a single Jabsco pump that is set up as a non reversible pump (they can be set up as reversible). The Jabsco pump would pump water through a manifold system with 3 sprinkler valves. There were 3 switches on the dash (Port, Stbd, Center) that would activate the Jabsco pump and the corresponding sprinkler valve that would direct the water to the correct hard plastic tank. Each tank had about 250# weight capacity. Each of those hard tanks has a Mayfair aerator style pump screwed into the rear or it that is used to empty the tank. A few thoughts about this.... 1. The hard tanks are way too small to do any good in the port and stbd lockers. They will need to come out unless you are just going to tube and wakeboard. Not enough weight for surfing. 2. The center hard tank can stay and be reused. 3. The sprinkler valve manifold is the weak link in the system. It slows down everything will need to be ripped out if you want to upgrade your system to bigger fat sacs. 4. Unfortunately you will pretty much want to start from scratch to get a good system with more intakes in the hull, adding a couple Jabsco or Johnson ultra reversible pumps, 1100# sacs in the rear lockers, 480-580# sacs under the side seats, and a couple hundred pounds of lead bags for the back corner of the lockers. Lots of people can help you get a good system designed and installed if you are handy. Help us understand what your starting components are and we can go from there.

Yes I really think if you are looking for the absolute BEST wave on each side you do not want the shaper. Now if you want a submaximal wave but still a really good wave and a more level boat.... use the shaper. However you will have to run more overall ballast in order to get it to work. But switching sides will be faster for sure. The shaper really does no good to use it while listing the boat. Its either one or the other. I custom ordered "L" shaped sacs that filled the whole rear compartment and all the way under the side seats. This route is more expensive than having separate sacs but makes the plumbing easier. At the time Flying High made the best fat sacs. Not sure now. But basically this shape but custom ordered to fill EVERY SQUARE INCH of my rear compartments and under the side seats. https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-enzo-surf-sac.html If you want 2 separate sacs I would recommend this https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-jumbo-surf-sac.html and this https://www.wakemakers.com/wakemakers-center-lbs-ballast-bag.html. The second one you can custom order the length of it. What is your pump set up? I was starting from scratch so I put in two reversible Johnson Ultra Ballast pumps pulling from one 1 1/4 thru hull that I installed in the bottom of the boat. Then ran it through a manifold to either direct it to port side custom sac or stbd side sacs. If you went with a 2 sac per side set up you could have one pump filing each sac. We also put 2 extra axillary fill/empty lines off the manifold to use in filling a bow sac (never used it) or an extra sac on the seat if we had a light crew. They are also useful for water fights and as an emergency water vacuum line to suck water out of your bilge in the case of bilge pump failure. Or to pump out water of the main cabin when you take a rogue wave over the rear corner when you are out surfing and your wife is not paying attention to the huge roller coming toward the slumped down side as she turns to pick you up. I never installed a different trim plate on mine but in hind sight should have. I had the fixed one like yours. Just leave it where it is. It is not really designed to move even though it has the turnbuckle looking adjustments on it. If you decide to add an adjustable asymmetric plate there are plenty of threads on here sharing that info. You will not need it on the port side at all. But it will clean up the goofy side a lot. Let me know what other questions you have.

The hull is the same through all those years

I owned an Avy for 12 years. Played with weight and settings for years. I feel like I got the very best wave I could out of that boat and it was a great wave. First of all.... Ditch the shaper. You will get a better wave without it. 2nd.... ditch the bow weight. The Avy does not like or need bow weight. About all it needs in the bow is some eye candy in a bikini. Port side: Upgrade your rear sac to 1100#. It may not fill completely but it will fill more of the space with more weight than the 750#. Then put a 580# side sac under the port side seats. 250# in center tank. And if you really want it to pop add about 100 to 150 lbs of weight bags in each rear corners as far back as you can get them under the rear sacs. Lean that thing over to the rub rail and watch the magic! 10.7 to 11.2 GPS speed will make the wave go from big with lots of push to longer but you will lose a little push. Don't add bow weight to lengthen the wave. Just speed up a little bit. Starboard: Copy the port side. The wave will not be quite as clean unless you have a RH rotation prop. You have got to lean that beast to get clean wave on this side. But it will be big and powerful. If you get an asymmetric wing trim plate it will clean up the goofy side as well. For some reason everyone wants to use a shaper. The Avy hull is enough of a deep V to not need it. Every other brand of boat in that year range need a shaper. The Avy does not. Unless you want a more level boat...but it will diminish your wave. Good luck

The Escalade is the base model of the Avalanche. It will FOR SURE surf! The Avalanche is the OG of surf boats. The Avalanche/Escalade will surf really easy on the regular (port) side. Throw an 1100 fat sac in the rear locker and a 540 under the port side seats and it will have an incredible wave. Don't bother with any bow weight and don't use a surf gate/wedge device on the side of the boat. This boat likes to lean. Get the port side rub rail touching the water and the wave will blow your mind. Want to perk it up a little bit more...... throw 100# of lead bags (Wake Ballast) in the very rear of both rear compartments. The goofy side will take a little more work to get a good wave but can definitely be done. But there will be visible bags everywhere to do it. Let me know if you have any other specific questions. I had a 2003 Escalade/Avalanche for 12 years. Great boat.

This is an interesting situation for sure. I am not sure I fully understand your options..... You could take the $47K payout and walk? BTW $47 K for a 2009 is more than fair. Hard to beat this deal. Or is there an option to take the payout and still get the boat to fix and keep? If so, at what cost? If taking the boat means no payout then I would take my money and run. If there is an option for some payout and get the boat then it is worth exploring. The boat for sure still has value if YOU wanted to get it and fix it back up to be good for YOU. But only if you want to keep it personally. It would be a really hard to sell with a salvaged title knowing it had sunk without taking a big financial hit on the sale. You are certainly not going to get $47K out of it used, sunk, and salvaged when you sell it. Did you see what the "fix it list" was for $35k? That seems crazy high if they already got the motor running with a new computer. For sure the shop is being aggressive on the $75 per day fee. Do they have that in writing anywhere for it to be legal? I would ask this question on the Official Centurion/Supreme boat owners Facebook group. Lots more eyes and ears over there to give you good advice.

A sad and happy day all at the same time. I watched my Avy drive away almost exactly 2 years ago. It didn't hurt quite as much since I already had the new SV244 in the garage. It will be a long wait for you til spring but how exciting to be getting a Ri230!!!!! Pumped for you!

Hi Sean. We have used an Inland Surfer Squirt as our 'boat board" for a long time. It is a great all around board for a very wide weight range. The thing I like most about it is that is has a very thin profile (3/4") and is not very buoyant. This makes it easier for newbies to flip the board up against their feet for getting up. Thicker more buoyant boards are much harder to get flipped up against the bottom of your feet to start. This board will fit in most board racks because it is only 3/4 inch thick. The fins in Squirt are Inland Surfer proprietary fins. You can probably find them on their website or call them and have one sent to you. They are not cheap. You will only need 1 more fin. 2 fins is plenty to lock that board down and make it very stable since they are about 2 1/2 inch tall fins. Then you can switch to only 1 fin to loosen things up a bit. I am not really sure how the Squirt will compare to the CWB Ride. The Squirt is definitely not one of Inland Surfers best or nicest boards. It is on the cheaper low end entry level boards in their line. Is is composite molded like a wakeboard and is not one of their nicer epoxy infused surfboards like most of their line. It is super flat with very sharp side edges which make it very fast but not always the most forgiving with catching front edges and sinking the nose. I keep mine primarily for the purpose of teaching new riders and then we progress them onto something better. Not sure if this is the right board to really progress someone's riding to the next level though. Your mileage may vary.

Get an Enzo sac. Fill it up on surf side. Get the rub rail touching the water on surf side. Most the passengers on surf side or back seat. No more than person in the bow. Set speed to 10.7 to 11.0. Enjoy.