volzalum

Does your boat have CATS? If so adjust it at speed to remove the listing.

This sounds like a control screen ghosting problem. Are you having any other issues with the control screen acting up? It could also be that you have a rider preset that has the boat configured in a needing ballast configuration. Either turn the preset off before turning off the boat or create a new preset with empty ballast that you start the boat in and turn the boat off in.

Welcome Back!

I have not delved into it, but does anyone know if our touch screens have a port for a mouse or trackpad or something? It would be nice to still be able to control the screen even if the touch pad itself went out. Would just need to click from one setting to the next and select where desired. Probably not possible, but it might be a solution for some of these 4K replacement screen issues many are having.

You will most likely have to order a replacement screen. Unfortunately, this is becoming a common occurrence. As of yet, no-one has posted success in rehabbing the existing screens. As far as I know, the only way to get a new screen is to order through the dealer. You can try cleaning your screen really good, and you may be able to get it to work good enough to limp through the season. Grease and oils on the screen tend to cause the screen to think it is pressed and create non-responsiveness and ghosting where it starts changing settings on its own.

In a 2007, you most likely have a sprinkler valve manifold that opens and close the valves based on which switch is on. You probably have a stuck Starboard sprinkler valve. I recommend taking all of them apart and clean and service. Also note you probably have aerator style drain valves which are also prone to leaking through, so you may want to clean them all as well too.

If you manually fill the ram fill, the screen will think you are empty. The quantities are based on time, not on water flow (this is true for all bags too). You may need to lubricate all four of the ram fill handles (in the boat) and valves (under the boat and at back of boat). The beep is something you will need to have the engine checked with the Diacom software. You can purchase it and the adapter yourself directly from Rinda (~800) or you can call around to any dealer to see if they can read and clear codes for a PCM engine. Most Nautique dealers can do this for you. The touch screen may have the ghosting issues. Search this forum and others for that, no good fix, but someone posted recently they have a electronics company that is seeing if they can repair the touchscreens. I have not see an update in awhile.

Happy to hear this is working for you too. I am definitely happy with the change on mine.

On my 2015 FS44, my boat came from the factory with a 15” prop. The boat performed awesomely with that prop until the end of the first season and I noticed significant Gelcoat burn. Centurion put a 3/16 Inch steel pate on the boat which only allows a 14” prop. The last 4 seasons have been very frustrating performance wise. I am about to make some adjustments to get back to a larger prop. I took measurements and have sufficient motor mount adjustments to ship the prop shaft strut to gain some back. By my calculations, I have enough clearance in the prop shaft log to change the prop shaft angle 1 degree after engine alignment. On the FS44 there is a recess where the strut anchors. I am having a Stainless plate (~7-5/8 x 3-5/8) made to sit in the recess that has a 1 degree taper across the plate (bow to stern) which is a little over ⅛ inch on the long side. This will align the strut bearings with the new prop shaft angle. Additionally, I am going to remove and reinstall the steel plate the way the factory should have done it - by recessing it into the fiberglass. Between the shim and the recessed plate, I should gain nearly an inch of clearance on the prop. I’m hoping to get to a 16 inch prop size, but may have to settle for a 15.5 inch after everything is secured. I know that a 15 worked great, so anything larger will be even better. I will document this with some pictures and discussion once I get it complete (hopefully by mid-July).

If you lost the vault cap, you will have already contaminated the bearings. I recommend cleaning and replacing with marine grease or buying a new non-leviable vault axel and replacing the whole axel.

It takes the Diacom software to clear it. Post in one of the Facebook groups and see if there are any members nearby that have the software and adapter to connect to the PCM engine.

Most likely a disconnected wire or a fuse. Look and see if your Amps are powering on.

I am on my second set of them for my boat. I agree, he does a good job and is very responsive.

Anyway to make these available again? They are out of stock in the Store.

I ordered the software and cable here: https://www.rinda.com/rindashop Each engine is different, but you will have a connection in the engine bay that the cable fits to. On my supercharged engine, it is directly beside the engine oil filler on the right side of the engine near the back. On other boats, I have seen it near the front left of the engine.

I am looking for the information to clear codes on the 2015 PCM engine. I have been unable to find which version of MEFI the engine uses nor where the diagnostic port is. I found a single port on the rear port side of the engine just forward of the idler pulley labeled CAN Network. It is a 6 pin connector with a cover connected. Does anyone have the definitive answer as to MEFI version and if that port is the correct port for clearing codes? I have a persistent stored code that has not cleared. It has not thrown the code again but the alarm does go off every 2 minutes. Thanks for any help that can be provided.

Just give it a good scrub. If its really bad, use some toilet bowl cleaner to strip all of the grime. Then put a good coat of polish on it.

Have you adjusted your CATS fin while surfing goofy to see if that corrects your tracking? What are your settings for Regular vs Goofy?

I don’t drain first on mine, I suck the antifreeze through while it is running. I just found that there are some places that water stays even draining, so I run 12 gallons just to be sure. The heater (if equipped) should be on the coolant side rather than on the fresh water side. Some folks drain and remove their impeller and then use a 12volt pump to put antifreeze through. If you are sucking the antifreeze through with engine running, I do not recommend draining the water first because it is harder on the impeller to create suction.

I had a 2007 SV216 (basically the same boat, just in 2008 they lengthened it 4 inches). You can get a decent surf wave by leaning it, just lots of weight and it likes bow weight too to get it sunk down (to the rub rail on surf side). The hull is very similar to the early Malibu’s with surf gates on them, so a suck gate would probably do pretty good on it. You will still want lots of weight to get it in the water sufficiently.

They both should hold their value comparably. The newer Centurions have been holding their price very well compared to new out the door prices. It is probably a draw between the 2 on this front.

With the XR550, you definitely need to drain both heat exchangers and the exhaust manifolds and the vDrive and the oil cooler if you do not run antifreeze through. I typically run RV antifreeze through mine (also FS44 with XR550) and leave it. One year I only ran 6 gallons through it (vs the normal 12 gallons) and did not drain afterwards. Had to replace both heat exchangers and both exhaust manifold elbows. Will not make that mistake again.

I will also add that for a barebones 237/257 (i.e., no additional options) you will probably be 10K higher than either price you posted. Then for the options, you will not get much additional discount so they will add directly to the costs. Right now, there is more demand than boats available, both used and new. To get a 237 for less than 100K, you would probably have to drop back to a 2018, and then you may not find one. for a 257, I don't think you can find a used one for the price you listed.

Yes. Definitely rip the hard tanks out. If you want 4 separate bags then install them, but in the same available space, the bags will give you triple the weight of the hard tanks when full.

Sounds like one of the breakers tripped. What year boat? Probably located either under the observer compartment or back in the engine bay.