Jump to content

Recommended Posts

duramat    462

 

there is about 1/2" clearance between the hull and prop with the 1631. if i went with the 14", it would be 1/4" inch clearance. i don't have a bubble cut out.

Some have taken a flat piece of stainless steel and siliconed it to the surface to prevent gel coat burn. I think there were/are issues of cavitation with air being that close as well

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

How fast were you going? OUCH!

15 mph.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Delaware prop in Muncie indiana is where u could send it, I think almost every marina in indiana sends them there, we go to Tennessee some and they send there's there also. I'm only a few miles from them and they are very good to work with. I've had to visit them afew times.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

Nettles prop. Great service and fast.

http://www.nettleprops.com

 

 

Delaware prop in Muncie indiana is where u could send it, I think almost every marina in indiana sends them there, we go to Tennessee some and they send there's there also. I'm only a few miles from them and they are very good to work with. I've had to visit them afew times.

 

 

I'll give them both a call tomorrow. Well all three maybe and I'll talk to Acme too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RVR-RAT    269

 

 

 

 

 

I'll give them both a call tomorrow. Well all three maybe and I'll talk to Acme too.

Good luck! Let us know how everything works out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

I called them all. Nettles came out to be a better deal since I am repairing my prop and buying a new one. $50 off the repair costs. They recommended 1619 prop. Less pitch. There isn't enough room for a larger prop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

15 mph.

Several of my friends asked me if I saw the log. The log was under water. I didn't see it. The passengers saw the log surface after the hit and sank back down again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Troy    234

Dude! that sucks! hope you get back on the water soon and nothing else is damaged.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RVR-RAT    269

Dude! that sucks! hope you get back on the water soon and nothing else is damaged.

X2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

Fortunately, the new prop will be here tomorrow or Thursday according to Nettles. It's getting drop shipped from Acme.

 

Unfortunately, I need to figure out how to fix/replace one of the Lenco 101 actuators on the switch blade. I just need the housing.

 

Anyone have a busted one they would be willing to part with that has an intact housing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

WIN_20140527_203913_zps1102ad14.jpg

 

Looks like I really just need the end cap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Joe B    17

Search for switchblade actuator. Short story is its special and only sold by the folks at switchblade. Sold in pairs. not cheap compared to lenco.

 

I was able to pop mine together and the other actuator did all the work but i had to be at a stop. dont trailer with the blade far, the negative bouncing will wear the actuators early. We dont use blade on unfamiliar lakes. And check the bolt for looseness every trip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bigcatpt    408

I called them all. Nettles came out to be a better deal since I am repairing my prop and buying a new one. $50 off the repair costs. They recommended 1619 prop. Less pitch. There isn't enough room for a larger prop.

Nettles has always been awesome to work with! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

Nettles has always been awesome to work with! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Got my tracking number. New prop scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Pretty fast.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

Is there a particular grade of grease I should put on the shaft before reinstalling the prop? In hopes of making it easy to uninstall in the future.

Also, what do I torque the nut down to? When I removed it, it wasn't torqued down at all. It was really easy to remove. The prop came off with just 2 light taps of a hammer/wood.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Skibumm    184

I have never put grease on the prop shaft prior to installing anew prop. That said I would never be able to get mine off with a hammer and wood. I always have used a prop puller.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
superdtf    68

I'll be really, really surprised if your shaft isn't tweaked. You won't see it with the naked eye. But a prop, rudder, and switchblade tells me the shaft is likely bent... and it's much easier to change with the prop and rudder off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jiriki    13

I'll be really, really surprised if your shaft isn't tweaked. You won't see it with the naked eye. But a prop, rudder, and switchblade tells me the shaft is likely bent... and it's much easier to change with the prop and rudder off.

I'll see if I can get a dial indicator. What's the tolerance?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kevin Baugh    78

lets see a picture of the strut straight on from the back of the boat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy..