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centuridude    9

With some motivation from other posts that I have seen on this forum, I decide to add a fresh water-line to my engine so that I won't have to use a Fake-A-Lake anymore.

 

For reference, my boat is a 2009 Avalanche with a Mercruiser Black Scorpion engine. This is what I did in case others would like to make the same modification:

 

1) Remove the water in-take to the V-drive (which comes directly from the sea-water intake on the bottom of the boat)

2) Swapped out the elbow for a TEE (1" on all ports)

3) Added a 1"to 3/4" reducer

4) Added a 3/4" ball valve

5) Added 3/4" female garden hose adapter

 

All these parts were purchased from Lowes.

 

Although it is not shown in the pictures, there is already a ball-valve at the sea-water inlet.

 

To run fresh water, I do the following now:

 

1) Connect a garden hose and open the new 3/4" ball-valve

2) Turn on the water to the garden hose

3) Start the engine

4) Close the ball-valve at the sea-water inlet

 

Works like a charm! Makes running anti-freeze through it way easy.

 

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post-5676-0-51112400-1444586407_thumb.jpg

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stoked    1,039

Nice work! Good looking install!

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Sata3000    15

Any pointers on getting the water in take hose off? Mine is stuck

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DarksideR    1,679

Exacto knife. Or a heat gun.

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truekaotik    458

Any pointers on getting the water in take hose off? Mine is stuck

Screw driver works

Heat works

Don't cut unless you are replacing it

 

Most of us that work on multiple boats use a connection that's removable, so we have taken many different hoses off inboards....

Edited by truekaotik

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Sata3000    15

Thanks for the response heat gun worked like a champ. Next question my 90 elbow will not budge. I have put a little heat just scared I might snap the threads coming out of the v drive to the elbow. Any advice?

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chenige    84

heat and PB blaster

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Sata3000    15

Thanks guys, sprayed PB blaster I will let it sit overnight and use alittle heat tomarrow

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DjOM21    59

Stick a pipe wrench in the open end of the nipple to get some leverage and break it free. - worked for me.

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centuridude    9

I couldn't get mine to budge either and almost ended up cutting it. I did apply heat with a heat gun (paint stripper). After doing do, the rubber softened up and I was able to work it off of the elbow.

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Hein    63

Thanks for the response heat gun worked like a champ. Next question my 90 elbow will not budge. I have put a little heat just scared I might snap the threads coming out of the v drive to the elbow. Any advice?

 

The idea is to heat the elbow so it expands and then hopefully frees it up. But using a torch is scary because of fuel vapors. Definitely ventilate well before getting in there with an open flame. The pipe nipple in the V-drive gearbox looks pretty rusted. You could leave the elbow and add the tee to the threads where the hose was attached then shorten the hose a bit. Be careful not to restrict the flow from the inlet.

Edited by Hein

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Sata3000    15

The idea is to heat the elbow so it expands and then hopefully frees it up. But using a torch is scary because of fuel vapors. Definitely ventilate well before getting in there with an open flame. The pipe nipple in the V-drive gearbox looks pretty rusted. You could leave the elbow and add the tee to the threads where the hose was attached then shorten the hose a bit. Be careful not to restrict the flow from the inlet.

I thought about puting a T at the end of the elbow. There is no ball valve from the thru hole and figured it would be to much in that area to reach with a garden hose.

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Does anyone see an issue with electrolysis or corrosion using brass and galvanized pipe together ? maybe it is not an issue since it is not sea water , not sure . hope someone can shed light on this or maybe it is a stupid question but maybe not. I ask because i have the parts and ready to do it as well.

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CO Surfer    289

Does anyone see an issue with electrolysis or corrosion using brass and galvanized pipe together ? maybe it is not an issue since it is not sea water , not sure . hope someone can shed light on this or maybe it is a stupid question but maybe not. I ask because i have the parts and ready to do it as well.

Here's what you're looking for: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion#Galvanic_series

Brass will have an index voltage of -0.4; low carbon steel (once the zinc wears off) will have an index voltage of -0.85 for a difference of .45. That high of an index voltage difference is likely to cause problems in a damp environment.

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Joe B    17

I did all brass. kept the Elbow since it wouldnt budge, so removed the inlet hose (cut it off) and added my 1" 'T'.

I kept everything 1" and just use a long funnel. Have it angled since its cramped

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DarksideR    1,679

Cut the hose. You're going to have to cut it down anyway to shorten it once you instal the T. That's what I did anyway.

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