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Skibumm    184

another question...Is there supposed to be a little box shaped mount that screws to the deck for the driver seat? Then the driver seat screws into that? The way its set up, the driver seat mounts strait to the deck. I feel like a cholo in it because of how low it sits.

Yes there is an angled fiberglass box that sits about 3 inches in the front and about 1 1/2 in the back that the sliders bolt too. I can only imagin how low that is as I even have mine raised up off the seat base an inch. THe problem is you will not be able to find one is my guess. Many people have looked for them and tough to come by.

Edited by Skibumm

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Yes there is an angled fiberglass box that sits about 3 inches in the front and about 1 1/2 in the back that the sliders bolt too. I can only imagin how low that is as I even have mine raised up off the seat base an inch. THe problem is you will not be able to find one is my guess. Many people have looked for them and tough to come by.

Haha oh geez. Looks like ill be making one out of wood. Anyone have a pic of what it looks like? Dimensions would be a god send. I can't believe the lack of information on the web about these older ski boats. I've searched all over Google and so far this thread has the most information ha. I spent three hours searching for a pdf owners manual and wiring diagrams and still no luck.

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mancho    85

 


 

I can't believe the lack of information on the web about these older ski boats. I've searched all over Google and so far this thread has the most information ha. I spent three hours searching for a pdf owners manual and wiring diagrams and still no luck.

 

Thats because the web only came into popularity in 1996 and 1997. In 20 years, everything will be available on the web, because in early 2003 the web flipped from developers pushing all the content to the users pushing all the content to the web. Good times.

 

I agree, older stuff is really hard to find on the web unless there is a cult following the item/topic/god/whatever... I've searched over 10 hours for stuff and I use advanced search parameters and crap and still can't dig it up. if it wasn't ever put on the web, it didn't exist. (at least that's what my kids will say in 10 years) :guitar:

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superdtf    68

Thats because the web only came into popularity in 1996 and 1997. In 20 years, everything will be available on the web, because in early 2003 the web flipped from developers pushing all the content to the users pushing all the content to the web. Good times.

Wow Mancho, I didn't know you waxed philosophical like that. Nice! ^^What Craig, of Craigslist described as, "... the democratization of the internet." This site is a pretty darn good example of that.

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fastjohnny    0

Haha oh geez. Looks like ill be making one out of wood. Anyone have a pic of what it looks like? Dimensions would be a god send. I can't believe the lack of information on the web about these older ski boats. I've searched all over Google and so far this thread has the most information ha. I spent three hours searching for a pdf owners manual and wiring diagrams and still no luck.

I think that vintage still used basically a 2x4 box covered in plywood, with all of it carpeted same as the boat, IIRC.

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Skibumm    184

I would guess that boat did not have the carpeted box but I have been wrong before. I would think it looked more like this.

It would be a bunch easier to built a wood box and cover with carpet though. If you do I would make it lower in the back than the front. You could also make it out of expanded PVC which would make it last. As soon as I get my boat back I will take some pics of mine for you.

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Thanks for the put reference ski. My seat definitely does not have a slider. Just flat rail with four holes to mount it. Id imagine all I need to do is build a box and mount the seat to it. Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it!

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Ok so I all the parts I ordered came in (besides Carb, thats coming tomorrow) and I've installed what I can so far. Here's a few problems I've run into....

 

20130503_184310_zps868ac8f0.jpg

 

Here's the new fuel line that I ordered for the new fuel pump. How in the heck is that supposed to be routed in order to work? I'm assuming I'm missing some coupler that screws into the fuel pump that connects the line to it.

 

20130502_121631_zpsfc3e8593.jpg

20130502_121619_zps36d40b3a.jpg

 

I got the "J-tube" installed with lots of struggle but the hose is being dented by the alternator bracket. I'm assuming thats not supposed to be happening?

 

20130503_184046_zpsafb28886.jpg

 

I'm holding the vinyl hose that is supposed to be connected from the flame arrestor to the fuel pump however obviously I'm about 2ft away from that happening. Only thing I can think of is that skidim charges per foot at .048 a foot and I only added 1 to my cart. They dont list whether or not thats how they sell it on the item details so idk. I'm going to call them in the morning.

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duramat    462

I think your belt is installed inside out?

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First timer    19

Did you buy a center drain plug yet? If not i have one with the T handle and the plate that it threads into ill ship to you if you want it. Pm me your address and ill get it in the mail. By the way super your the man.

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Did you buy a center drain plug yet? If not i have one with the T handle and the plate that it threads into ill ship to you if you want it. Pm me your address and ill get it in the mail. By the way super your the man.

 

I havent bought that one yet, I would greatly appreciate it!

 

I think your belt is installed inside out?

 

It has a V shape to it so it fits in the pulleys nicely

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dezul    10

Keep us posted. I am interested in the outcome. I wished i could help but looking at pictures are a little difficult for me to what you need and what you got.

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superdtf    68

OK, sorry if you felt abandoned... i did. 15 year anniversary with my wife in Mexico. :)

 

Yeah, either the fuel pump is wrong or the fuel line is wrong, possibly both. Call the guys at skidim (I wouldn't think they'd sell the wrong combo). If skidim can't get that figured out, then once we get the pump and carb installed, you can get your local Hose Products shop to make you a marine fuel rated line with the right connectors at the right length. They'll also sell you more length of clear tube if you take what you've got down there.

 

Yeah, that bracket is screwy, I'm guessing it's an automotive mod. The couple ideas I have are these:

  • trim down the ends a little so perhaps the j-tube protrudes less.
  • buy three or four inches of generic radiator hose, slit it down longwise, slide it around the j-tube and wedge it into position against the bracket to kind of protect the hose that matters from getting a hole worn through it. You'll have to keep an eye on that forever after.
  • Some combination of both.

I don't think you'll have much success trying to re-engineer the bracket differently.

 

Also, your coil is in a screwy spot. Maybe it's fine but typically those sit in a cute little bracket on the top of the intake manifold on the left-hand side as you stand looking at the front of the motor. I'm wondering if it got moved because somebody got a screwy set of "performance" plug wires.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Racing/397/M-12044-A2/10002/-1

 

You should be able to find that at any autoparts place, I'd start with NAPA.

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OK, sorry if you felt abandoned... i did. 15 year anniversary with my wife in Mexico. :)

 

Yeah, either the fuel pump is wrong or the fuel line is wrong, possibly both. Call the guys at skidim (I wouldn't think they'd sell the wrong combo). If skidim can't get that figured out, then once we get the pump and carb installed, you can get your local Hose Products shop to make you a marine fuel rated line with the right connectors at the right length. They'll also sell you more length of clear tube if you take what you've got down there.

 

Yeah, that bracket is screwy, I'm guessing it's an automotive mod. The couple ideas I have are these:

  • trim down the ends a little so perhaps the j-tube protrudes less.
  • buy three or four inches of generic radiator hose, slit it down longwise, slide it around the j-tube and wedge it into position against the bracket to kind of protect the hose that matters from getting a hole worn through it. You'll have to keep an eye on that forever after.
  • Some combination of both.

I don't think you'll have much success trying to re-engineer the bracket differently.

 

Also, your coil is in a screwy spot. Maybe it's fine but typically those sit in a cute little bracket on the top of the intake manifold on the left-hand side as you stand looking at the front of the motor. I'm wondering if it got moved because somebody got a screwy set of "performance" plug wires.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Racing/397/M-12044-A2/10002/-1

 

You should be able to find that at any autoparts place, I'd start with NAPA.

 

Alright Ive got an update. I pretty much finished the boat today and started it for the first time. A couple of questions/Comments:

 

1. While running, I only showed 12V on my gauge. I verified this with putting my multimeter on the alternator and I got no volts with the engine running. Shortly after that the motor started stalling randomly. Probably due to low voltage from battery thanks to the alternator not working. Which alternator should I get for this boat? What size amp alt too? I installed a stereo system on the boat so one with more output would be best. Do I need a Marinized alternator?

 

2. Is it normal for the prop shaft to be constantly spinning while at idle? sometimes it would speed up on its own and I could not slow it down at the throttle.

 

3. My RPM gauge isnt working. Is this related to the alternator? If not, where does the rpm gauge get its signal from?

 

4. Lastly, when turning the key to on, the oil pressure gauge jumps to 40. Then when running it spikes to 80psi. Could I have a faulty pressure switch?

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superdtf    68

Alright Ive got an update. I pretty much finished the boat today and started it for the first time. A couple of questions/Comments:

 

1. While running, I only showed 12V on my gauge. I verified this with putting my multimeter on the alternator and I got no volts with the engine running. Shortly after that the motor started stalling randomly. Probably due to low voltage from battery thanks to the alternator not working. Which alternator should I get for this boat? What size amp alt too? I installed a stereo system on the boat so one with more output would be best. Do I need a Marinized alternator?

 

2. Is it normal for the prop shaft to be constantly spinning while at idle? sometimes it would speed up on its own and I could not slow it down at the throttle.

 

3. My RPM gauge isnt working. Is this related to the alternator? If not, where does the rpm gauge get its signal from?

 

4. Lastly, when turning the key to on, the oil pressure gauge jumps to 40. Then when running it spikes to 80psi. Could I have a faulty pressure switch?

Excellent. Honestly, a couple of times I thought this might be a basket case that never got running again. Good work.

 

1- I don't know what alternator to get, call Skidim, they'll totally know.

2- Yes, and no. If it's been sitting a while, your prop will turn when in neutral. It's not awesome. It also tells me your strut bushings are worn, but you can replace those over the winter. I'm assuming you're not a vibration snob yet, so enjoy it while you can.

3- It could be gauge or the sender, or both. Replacing both is easy and will cost you like $40 from the Autozone.

4- It's the same story as the oil gauge and sender. But fix your voltage issue first, and maybe it solves both.

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heres a video of the issue im having with the transmission.

 

th_20130520_102722_zpsacbb6ae3.jpg

Edited by 89CenturionLapoint

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Kevin Baugh    78

Tranny needs a rebuild job assuming that the throttle is adjusted correctly and the tranny is indeed in neutral

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superdtf    68

I HATE to disagree with Kevin... but you may not need to rebuild it. (Kevin, you know I respect you ;) )

 

Like I said, lots of them after they've been sitting for a while will do this. Put a few hours on it in the water, and check it again. My dad's Ski Nautique (older velvet drive) does this every spring when I dewinterize it. Then after the first trip to the lake it's fine.

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The transmission was rebuilt less than a year ago and hasn't seen the lake since, so super I think you're right because the break in hasn't even been fulfilled yet. I just wanted to make sure it is safe to put it on the lake when its making that noise, especially doing 30 to 40 miles an hour.

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Kevin Baugh    78

"The transmission was rebuilt less than a year ago and hasn't seen the lake since"

My bad I missed that post

 

I would not argue with Super about anything engine related ;)

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