fastjohnny

I just replaced my coupler which was an Atwood, same as OP. I always hated it, so I went with something different. I slid out the whole tongue, made a new one with a Fulton swing a way, and moved my winch stand onto the fixed part of the trailer. Best trailer mod in a long time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IHBLPC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use NAPA gold 3225, as it is readily available, when I forget to order one...

My actuator is to the center of the engine divider, accessible through the center seat of the rear bench.

Check your plugs after cranking a while. Are they wet or dry? Post back results

Have you checked your engine/transmission alignment to prop shaft? Old wood stringers likely to not hold engine mounts firmly if rotted.

Trex and composite decking products are not structural building components, I would not recommend for boat bunks.

Show us pics of your mounting when you get it in.

I think that vintage still used basically a 2x4 box covered in plywood, with all of it carpeted same as the boat, IIRC.

All tournament boats came with 2 speedo's for accuracy. When you turn, especially hard turn, one pitot will be out of the water. Did you use a marinized starter? I'll take a look at everything I've got.

I once had a boat of similar vintage. I may have some stuff still, such as extra plug wires, fuel pump, coil, etc. You've gotten good advice to your questions so far. As far as a carb goes, check what a new one runs at SKIDIM, if it is close to what the rebuilds are going for, just get the new one.

Works great, good instructions and great tech support if needed.

Mine's a 98, added perfect pass stargazer this spring, that and adding a proflight swoop factory tower have been more than worth the money

Are you wiping down then after you spray?

how does the cap/rotor look?

I blew out an ear drum 5-6 years ago, and now sport a helmet with ear flaps. I think it's cheap insurance against a repeat incident.