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jtryon

New Typhoon owner questions

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jtryon    22

Hi All, I just bought a 2007 Typhoon C4 and am going through it this off-season and making it a surf monster.  I'll do a build thread as I get into some of the heavy stuff like 1600gph pump upgrades, converting Sideswipe to my own FAE, etc.  I do have some questions that I haven't found answers to though, so I'm hoping someone here can help.

1. I'm looking for replacement interior courtesy light covers--the oval ones that are in most Avys and Typhoons before/after the step-up into the bow, and in the rear center passenger seat.  The ones on my boat are hazy and yellowing, so I'd like to replace them with new clear ones.

2. Any spare parts that I need to keep onboard other than impeller and serpentine belt?  IAC valve (was done recently but I'll get a spare)?  CPS?  Are there any "common" failure points on the 330HP Black Scorpion that would be a quick fix on the water if I have the parts handy?  Is the starter relay an external part on these?  I had an '88 Supra before and the starter relay went out on the water once, so I always kept a spare after that.

3. I have the 1.46:1 vdrive.  What are people running for surf props at sea level on these?  I was going to go as low as possible--Acme 2227 which is a 13.25 x 12.5 pitch x .105 cup 4-blade prop, but I don't see many people running that in my searches.  There's also the more common Acme 1619 which is a 13.5 x 13.75 pitch x .075 cup 4-blade.  Is the 2227 overkill with the Black Scorpion and 1.46 v-drive?  I'll be running around 4000lbs ballast I hope.

4. The speedometer is very flaky and bounces around a bit at speed.  Not hugely important, but is this an easy fix?  I've heard on older boats that you need to blow out the tube attached to the speedo--same idea here?  It does also have the dial near the throttle to adjust the speedo to match the PP speed.

5. Anyone with good dual-battery relocation documentation?  I currently have a single battery but will add a second one along with the Blue Sea add-a-battery kit.  I want to get them as far back as possible but don't want them taking up space in the lockers since I'll have full ballast bags in there most of the time.  Or are the lockers the best spot?

Thanks in advance!

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Bigcatpt    408

Sounds like a fun project!  Take lots of pics.  

Does your Typhoon have the stepped hull in the rear corners or does the hull line go all the way to the rear?  

1. Try Great Lakes Skipper.  They carry a lot of parts for older Centurions.  

2.  I always carried an extra prop and prop change kit.  Also an extra fuel pump (the one that is easily replaced.  One of them is under the motor and not easy to get to), extra ballast impellers, and an extra fuel water separator.

3.  I had the 1:1 on my Avy so  I am no help on props for yours.  

4.  The speedo is probably a paddlewheel type.  They are known to wear out and not be very accurate.  They spin at a high speed while towing on the freeway and the bearings get hot.   They are expensive to replace.  If you have perfect pass you have what you need unless you just want both...they replace the paddlewheel assembly.  

5.  Most put their dual batteries in the observer compartment...not the rear lockers.  

 

Hope that helps.   

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jtryon    22

it doesn't have the stepped hull thankfully, from what i've read that went away in '06.

1. i checked GLS previously and didn't see the lenses.  they are a great resource for some other stuff i need though, thanks.

2. do you have a PN for the fuel pump?  can it run off of the front one in a pinch?  what's the life expectancy on them?  i will have an extra prop and prop kit, and extra fuel/water separator. 

4. PP works and is a paddlewheel not GPS--i didn't realize the speedo used a paddlewheel as well.  i will crawl underneath and figure out if there are two of them.

5. that makes more sense probably with the amount of space in that front compartment.

thanks!

Edited by jtryon

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Dillyrev    0

I love my 2003 and would love to keep her if I could get a solid goofy wave. any ideas how to improve wave with notched hull boat? I have tried ballast and shaper already.

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Bigcatpt    408

Glad it is not the stepped hull.  You would never be pleased with the wave with that.  

I don't have the PN for the fuel pump.  I sold that boat...and all the extra parts and documentation this summer.  It has a high pressure and a low pressure fuel pump.  One is also called the boost pump but I can't remember which.  They are different and can not be interchanged and you need both to run properly or at all.  Mine went out after about 14 years.  Don't let the tank run dry ever.  Bad for several reasons.... LOL

I had PP Stargazer GPS so I never worried about my crappy paddlewheel.  I would think that your speedo and PP would work off the same paddlewheel.  

Good luck!  

 

 

 

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Bigcatpt    408
7 hours ago, Dillyrev said:

I love my 2003 and would love to keep her if I could get a solid goofy wave. any ideas how to improve wave with notched hull boat? I have tried ballast and shaper already.

How is your regular wave?  The regular side will always be better on LH rotation props.  My 03 Avy had an amazing regular wave and a really good goofy wave.  

I have not seen even a very good regular side wave on the Typhoons with the stepped hull in the rear.  Let alone an even decent goofy wave.  

Unfortunately I think you are pissing in the wind with that hull.  

Sell her and get something different.   

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Dillyrev    0

Yes big cat, I think you are right. Now my next problem, deciding what boat I do want. Thanks for the reply.

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Bigcatpt    408
On 11/2/2019 at 6:39 AM, Dillyrev said:

Yes big cat, I think you are right. Now my next problem, deciding what boat I do want. Thanks for the reply.

Lots of options out there.  I spent most the summer boat shopping to upgrade from my 03 Avy to something bigger and newer.  I had a really good idea what I wanted and waited until I found the right boat at the right deal.  Figure out what you want and then go find it.  Best of luck!  

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jtryon    22
On 11/1/2019 at 4:22 PM, Bigcatpt said:

I don't have the PN for the fuel pump.  I sold that boat...and all the extra parts and documentation this summer.  It has a high pressure and a low pressure fuel pump.  One is also called the boost pump but I can't remember which.  They are different and can not be interchanged and you need both to run properly or at all. 

i did a little digging after you said that and the boost pump looks to be the one right off the fuel filter on the rear port side.  i will get a spare one of these and a spare tank pump.  thanks!

new question: what to check when the alternator isn't showing any charge at all on the dash?  the old one was pretty beat up but was showing a charge when we had it out on the water twice before winterizing, but the seller included a new alt which i just swapped in.  the old and new one stopped showing a charge when running off the hose in the driveway.  all wires to the alt are clean.

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Troy    234

Check voltage at the battery. Mine shows like 10-11 volts when running, according to the dash but the battery is getting 14. 

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jtryon    22

i can do that...in the spring ;)

it was showing between 12-13 at the dash the two times i had it out this fall, but now just registers nothing at all.  that's why i figured there might be an easy wire to check in the off-season.

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Troy    234

you can always turn the key on and then tap the gauge to see if it comes alive then. 

 

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jtryon    22

i found a friend who will make me replacement light covers on a 3D printer, so i'm all set there.

does anyone have a use for the stock muffler and sideswipe valves that came on these?  i pulled all that off yesterday in preparation to do my own version of FAE.

Edited by jtryon

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jtryon    22

how much loss in speed from a tsunami 1200 will i see if i go from the 1" drain outlet down to the stock 3/4" hose for draining the ballast?  i'm upgrading the broken yellow stock ballast pumps and it's pretty difficult to get at the original 3/4" thru-hull used for emptying, so i may just run new 1" hose from the tsunami drain port to the very end near the thru-hull drain and convert it from 1" to 3/4" at that point.  will that kill my drain speed?

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jtryon    22

can anyone tell me where the starter relay is on the 2007 5.7L black scorpion?  i get mixed responses when searching where some show it as a round relay on the top of the starter itself, and have also seen some responses saying it's on top of the motor.

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codo511    2
On 11/1/2019 at 3:25 PM, Bigcatpt said:

How is your regular wave?  The regular side will always be better on LH rotation props.  My 03 Avy had an amazing regular wave and a really good goofy wave.  

I have not seen even a very good regular side wave on the Typhoons with the stepped hull in the rear.  Let alone an even decent goofy wave.  

Unfortunately I think you are pissing in the wind with that hull.  

Sell her and get something different.   

I've also been looking at 06 Typhoons and have been reading Centurion Crew forums all day because my wife and I are upgrading our old ski boat to potentially join the Centurion family, looking for a boat that has all the built in ballasts and this one has a manual center trim tab... and is in pretty great condition / low hrs

But I was reading this post... and i'm curious if this 2006 model Typhoon has the hull steps you were talking about where we'd be terribly disappointing with our purchase... and never be able to get a good surf wake...even if we invested in all the extra wake shapers etc... 62b0d466670bd_ScreenShot2022-06-20at3_10_58PM.png.0f28309783ab6ad57cd30f831a03d693.png

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Troy. R    188

@codo511 it looks like a super clean boat from the pic provided!
It looks like the boat you're looking at has the newer Avalanche C4 style hull.
It's a great surf hull, especially on the regular (port side). The goofy wave can be cleaned up with some work as well, but it'd take adding an electric actuated asymmetrical trim tab.

This hull does better without a wake shaper. To start with, you'll want to remove the rear ballast hard tanks (if equipped) and replace them with these:
https://www.wakemakers.com/collections/wakeboard-ballast-bags/products/fly-high-jumbo-surf-sac

You'll also want to throw one of these under at least the surf side seat (or  do both):
https://www.wakemakers.com/collections/wakeboard-ballast-bags/products/fly-high-rear-seat-sac

To get you started, you can use one of these to fill/drain, but you'll eventually want to do custom ballast if you're going to be primarily surfing:
https://www.wakemakers.com/collections/wakeboard-ballast-pumps/products/fly-high-fatsac-supa-tsunami-pump-juiced-edition

Down the road if you want to do a custom ballast system, remove the sideswipe, and/or add an asymmetrical winged trim plate, many of us have done these upgrades and there are many threads on them here.

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codo511    2
29 minutes ago, Troy. R said:

@codo511 it looks like a super clean boat from the pic provided!
It looks like the boat you're looking at has the newer Avalanche C4 style hull.
It's a great surf hull, especially on the regular (port side). The goofy wave can be cleaned up with some work as well, but it'd take adding an electric actuated asymmetrical trim tab.

This hull does better without a wake shaper. To start with, you'll want to remove the rear ballast hard tanks (if equipped) and replace them with these:
https://www.wakemakers.com/collections/wakeboard-ballast-bags/products/fly-high-jumbo-surf-sac

You'll also want to throw one of these under at least the surf side seat (or  do both):
https://www.wakemakers.com/collections/wakeboard-ballast-bags/products/fly-high-rear-seat-sac

To get you started, you can use one of these to fill/drain, but you'll eventually want to do custom ballast if you're going to be primarily surfing:
https://www.wakemakers.com/collections/wakeboard-ballast-pumps/products/fly-high-fatsac-supa-tsunami-pump-juiced-edition

Down the road if you want to do a custom ballast system, remove the sideswipe, and/or add an asymmetrical winged trim plate, many of us have done these upgrades and there are many threads on them here.

Thank Troy, the boat is super clean! The biggest concern was the hull, for surfing... as long as that is good to go, the sideswipe exhaust can be modded, the ballast and pumps can be upgraded, and AWTP can be added... but the bones and the engine needed to be solid... so as long as y'all think those are a check and a check... then I hope to have good news on an upgrade soon!

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Troy. R    188
15 hours ago, codo511 said:

Thank Troy, the boat is super clean! The biggest concern was the hull, for surfing... as long as that is good to go, the sideswipe exhaust can be modded, the ballast and pumps can be upgraded, and AWTP can be added... but the bones and the engine needed to be solid... so as long as y'all think those are a check and a check... then I hope to have good news on an upgrade soon!

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like:

https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

 

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codo511    2
1 hour ago, Troy. R said:

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like:

https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

 

Troy, that is what I needed to see! I can now sleep easy! Thanks my friend. I grew up cuttin and spraying on a slalom ski, but now that I’m a bit older and married, my wife prefers to slow down a tad and get the friends out on the boat and do some surfin… our current ride is not built to hold all the weight of the sacks + people, and the new-new boats are just bonkers spendy… I feel like this could be the ticket. And perhaps be a crossover to allow me to do a bit of skiing too!  Add a few upgrades, an auto wake shaper, upgraded ballast to improve pump time, and with only ~200 hrs on her she will surely provide a decade+ of fun! 

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Troy. R    188
22 hours ago, codo511 said:

Troy, that is what I needed to see! I can now sleep easy! Thanks my friend. I grew up cuttin and spraying on a slalom ski, but now that I’m a bit older and married, my wife prefers to slow down a tad and get the friends out on the boat and do some surfin… our current ride is not built to hold all the weight of the sacks + people, and the new-new boats are just bonkers spendy… I feel like this could be the ticket. And perhaps be a crossover to allow me to do a bit of skiing too!  Add a few upgrades, an auto wake shaper, upgraded ballast to improve pump time, and with only ~200 hrs on her she will surely provide a decade+ of fun! 

Glad I could help.
Keep us posted when/if you buy that boat.

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jtryon    22

i think i found the one you are looking at and that price is about average for the market.  a little high given the year, but close enough to what others are asking for similar ones including the 1' shorter and much more common Avalanche.

i would just verify that those are the true hours because it's very common for the meter to go out on these.  check the perfect pass screen if it has one and that should have the true engine hours stored.  i think the procedure is the menu+up arrow at the same time, then system info, then it's in that next menu somewhere.

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codo511    2
22 hours ago, jtryon said:

i think i found the one you are looking at and that price is about average for the market.  a little high given the year, but close enough to what others are asking for similar ones including the 1' shorter and much more common Avalanche.

i would just verify that those are the true hours because it's very common for the meter to go out on these.  check the perfect pass screen if it has one and that should have the true engine hours stored.  i think the procedure is the menu+up arrow at the same time, then system info, then it's in that next menu somewhere.

Perfect pass stargazer hrs checked out... (good tip) - boat was meticulously kept!

We are just having a tough time with the sideswipe exhaust... it has the old SS with the orange tips.
We thought our vintage Natique purrrred a fair volume... this baby really hummed! and we do a lot of entertaining just puttin' to dinner etc... I've mentioned it in a few other feeds, but I've been doing some research and it looks like there are some after market options-- as anything become the Go-To Standard?

1. Cap off and remove the SS and install aft exhaust and FAE: Drilling holes into the hull and add a wash pipe.
https://www.freshairexhaust.com/
- Benefit would also be that i'd free up some space in the rear hatch so if i wanted to upgrade my rear ballast i'd be able to add more weight... 

@jtyron had a great link:
https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/exhaust-modifications/centurion-sideswipe-conversion-r269/

- Does FAE down pipe effect wake shape/lip?
- Does FAE down pipe get in the way of automatic surf-tabs? 
- How about at speeds for slalom skiing? Spray?
- Does a single or dual exit port make a difference for engine performance? (it might add more strength)

2. In-line silencer:
http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=578696
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=silencers-inline-insert
- however i've been seeing mixed results if this actually reduces/muffles the engine Db...

Seriously other than that... she's a beaut. Just don't want to pick up a boat and have to turn around and sell a few months later because i cant hear my friends sitting across beam as we are cruising on the lake/river all day...

Again thanks!
 

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jtryon    22
On 6/23/2022 at 10:10 AM, codo511 said:

Perfect pass stargazer hrs checked out... (good tip) - boat was meticulously kept!

We are just having a tough time with the sideswipe exhaust... it has the old SS with the orange tips.
We thought our vintage Natique purrrred a fair volume... this baby really hummed! and we do a lot of entertaining just puttin' to dinner etc... I've mentioned it in a few other feeds, but I've been doing some research and it looks like there are some after market options-- as anything become the Go-To Standard?

1. Cap off and remove the SS and install aft exhaust and FAE: Drilling holes into the hull and add a wash pipe.
https://www.freshairexhaust.com/
- Benefit would also be that i'd free up some space in the rear hatch so if i wanted to upgrade my rear ballast i'd be able to add more weight... 

@jtyron had a great link:
https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/exhaust-modifications/centurion-sideswipe-conversion-r269/

- Does FAE down pipe effect wake shape/lip?
- Does FAE down pipe get in the way of automatic surf-tabs? 
- How about at speeds for slalom skiing? Spray?
- Does a single or dual exit port make a difference for engine performance? (it might add more strength)

glad to hear!  yes the SS get's LOUD around 15mph, that's why i scrapped it along with the fact that the side-to-side switching didn't work.  that link to wakegarage is actually mine, let me know if you have any questions on that project.  it's my 3rd season on it and no issues.  i just had a local fab shop finish the downpipe (FAE-style) for me for around $350, so all-in i'm well below the FAE conversion cost.  that being said, FAE is a good option for a plug-and-play conversion.

you're correct in that the side benefit of removing SS is gaining space for ballast, and typhoon's do need more weight than avy's.  i upgraded to these bags (link) this season and the surf wave is noticeably better than with the 1280's that i had prior.

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Bigcatpt    408

The sideswipe is a deal breaker for me.  WAY too loud!  And the pipes run right through the side locker taking up valuable ballast space.  

If you want to do the mod and convert to FAE then it would not matter.  Its only money.  LOL  

Good luck!   

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