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COV2

Trim Tab and Other Help Needed

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COV2    2

I have spent the last few months reading countless threads on boats and wound up buying an 06 Enzo SV230.  It is my first ever boat.  We got hooked on wakesurfing last summer out at Powell and McConoughy.  I have read previous threads on the subjects for hours on end and have a pretty good handle on most things but now need some specific advice.  The boat came with a fixed trim tab.  I bought a mission delta shaper and two 1000lb bags to supplement the 350 stock tanks.  That seemed like the path of least resistance and get the same weight as the Enzo bags.  Also bought the brackets to reinforce  the panels.  Now for the two questions.

Trim Tabs.  I am goofy. Everyone else is regular.  I have read that an asymmetrical trim tab will clean up the goofy side.  For the life of me I just can't find where to buy one.  Is the mission delta going to accomplish the same thing?  Do I need to install one with an actuator as well?

Ballast.  Boat is not close to me right now, but I recall there are vent hoses going through the lockers. No sideswipe. How does that work with the bags?

Trying to get all the parts together so I have what I need first time out.  I'm sure I will have more questions.

All help is very much appreciated.

V2

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Shaka    131

An asymmetrical wakeplate can be fabricated by any decent metal shop. It's simply a rectangular piece of metal with a bend on one side and a piano hinge welded to it. You can mount it in the same place as your fixed tab although others mount it to the transom. I'd definitely get an actuator for adjustability.

I also wonder if the A-plate would be necessary with a suck gate. I honestly have no idea but a Nauticurl works great with my A-plate and isn't very expensive.

Another option is to have a surf system made similar to what's found on the newer boats. I'm fitting one this year to my SV230.

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COV2    2

Thanks for the reply,.  Where does one buy the A-plate?  I have searched and searched.

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RhuntIII    548

If you are going to use the Mission Delta I would suggest holding off on the A-Plate. Swapping from tanks to bags you might want to have all the quick release fittings and maybe the air release caps for purging the air out. If your vent lines are not crossed you could loose water out of them while listed. Get those bags in your boat, deploys your flapper and get to riding before you start with major mods. You're gonna find that your list-o-mods will start growing once riding and you're gonna want your boat close by for measuring and trailer watching. 

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COV2    2

Thanks for the info.  Not sure how I missed that thread on the A-plate but that was helpful.

Rhuntlll, pardon my ignorance, but not sure what you mean about the vent lines and not sure what a flapper is.  Sounds to me like you are saying evenly weighted with the mission delta I might not need the A-plate for the goofy side.

This is just the info I was looking for.  Now I just can't wait for the weather to turn so I can go try it out!

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RhuntIII    548
16 hours ago, COV2 said:

Thanks for the info.  Not sure how I missed that thread on the A-plate but that was helpful.

Rhuntlll, pardon my ignorance, but not sure what you mean about the vent lines and not sure what a flapper is.  Sounds to me like you are saying evenly weighted with the mission delta I might not need the A-plate for the goofy side.

This is just the info I was looking for.  Now I just can't wait for the weather to turn so I can go try it out!

When boats first started being bagged out for surfing the bags vent/overflow lines were ran to the same side of the boat that the bag was on. When the boat listed over water would slowly pour out of the vent/overflow lines. Once this was discovered the lines were routed to the opposite side of the boat. I deleted my vent lines all together and installed FlyHigh's air release caps for venting/purging the air out of the bag when filling. 

Flappers, lol. I was just being a smart-tush. In the beginning boats mainly Centurions with the deep V hull were listed over to create a wave. Today the fad is deploying a Surf Gate, Quick Surf, NSS, Mission Delta or even the CATS to clean up the wave. Piloting a boats can be very sketchy while listed and the equal weighted boat that can deploy a flapper is very appealing to new boat buyers. Flappers are also an excellent way to get a wave out of an older boat with or with out a deep V.

My 233 gets slammed and listed for surfing and the CATS tunes the boat for a clean lip. We ride both port and starboard. 

 

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COV2    2

Good stuff and thanks.  So game plan seems to be fill all ballast, 1,000 in both storage lockers plus both 350 stock tanks, and run the mission delta on the side opposite the side surfed and see how it works.  Experiment with listing if necessary and if none of that works on the goofy side, go with an A-plate.  Good plan?

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Jake707    164

Id add experiment with bow weight as well. Generally the more bow weight the longer and shorter the wave, so finding that balance of a good length of pocket in the wave with good push is key so you don't have to stay a foot off the back of the boat before you wash out. Plus you wont be doing a wheelie the whole time across the lake like some of the Malibus I see. haha

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InfinitySurf    189

Lead bags is a great option for bow weight. Leadwake.com and a few others out there

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COV2    2

Info just keeps getting better.  200lbs up front?

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nailem    29

I have a 05 sv230 Enzo, basically the same boat. I only run regular wave. My set up is: 1100lb in port locker, 750 under port bench, speed around 11.2. I just made a suck gate and started with the same set up and add about 200lbs to starboard side. 

The 1100 and 750 acts like an Enzo back just separate. When you take the port bench off I cut all the fiberglass out so it is all open, removed the hard tank and added the 750 (does not completely fill but close). This makes for good storage when bag is not full. On starboard I cut out the fiberglass under the seat and removed the hard tank and added a 400lb bag (again does not completely fill). I added manual ball valve so I can switch the feed from the starboard pump and make it till the 1100 I also added jobsco pump to fill drain the 1100. So two pumps fill the 1100. I then ran the vent/overflow from the 1100 to the 750 port. The 750 fills with the oem port pump and then when the 1100 fills fast it overflows and helps fill the 750. I ran the overflow from the port 750 to the starboard and starboard to port. 

I had to drill 1 hole on port side in the row of vent/drains to add a drain for the 750 port, 1100 port drains with oem drain and jobsco, and starboard drains with oem drain. I also had to drill a 1" hole in the bottom for the jobsco and add a couple of switches to run new pump. 

Everyrhing fills in under 15min. 

Even with the suck gate I still like to mostly list and just weight the other side enough to get the gate in the water.

Not sure if this helps?

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Shaka    131

I run something similar to Nailem. I run 750lbs in each locker and 650lbs under each side seat. The 650 lbs bags don't quite fill all the way but it's close. I find that the 750's in combination with the 650's works great and gives me a lot of control. The 650's are nice for wakeboarding as well and are a big help in tuning the wake.

I did the A-plate mode which gave me a great listed goofy wave. Last year I experimented with a Nauticurl with great results. This inspired me to build a surf system. I gave the fabricator the plan for some Supreme style tabs yesterday. It was only a couple of years ago that these tabs were also used on the Centurions. I'm also going to do a set that is close to the current Centurion tab. I have buddies with an MC X45, Wakesestter, and an MB and they are all going to try the tabs as well. No more suck gate!

One of the first things you should do is get rid of the hard tanks. Those take up a lot of space for little benefit.

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Jake707    164

Agree, pull the hard tanks and get a sac that fills the whole compartment so you can use that area as storage if need be when not surfing and maximize it when the sac is full.

As for bow weight, I run the fat sac bow bag under the bow seats in my elite and dual 750s in the rear compartment. It seems to do good and keeps the bow seating open, also have a fat sac brick I can fill and place in bow floor step down.  Lead is a great way to go if you need to keep the space open for storage as it doesn't take up much space and adds a ton of weight. Downside to it is its always there whether you need it or not and the price point is usually about $1 a pound which is way more than a sac (usually in the $0.19-0.25 a pound range) but again on the flip there's no sac to have to fill up and if you are using throw over pumps its just another step in the prep process before surfing.  If you have any fat friends start with putting them up in the bow  and see how it affects the wave haha.  Have fun with it and plan to be experimenting with different weight placement and its affect on the wake at least your first couple outings.  

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InfinitySurf    189
6 hours ago, Shaka said:

I run something similar to Nailem. I run 750lbs in each locker and 650lbs under each side seat. The 650 lbs bags don't quite fill all the way but it's close. I find that the 750's in combination with the 650's works great and gives me a lot of control. The 650's are nice for wakeboarding as well and are a big help in tuning the wake.

I did the A-plate mode which gave me a great listed goofy wave. Last year I experimented with a Nauticurl with great results. This inspired me to build a surf system. I gave the fabricator the plan for some Supreme style tabs yesterday. It was only a couple of years ago that these tabs were also used on the Centurions. I'm also going to do a set that is close to the current Centurion tab. I have buddies with an MC X45, Wakesestter, and an MB and they are all going to try the tabs as well. No more suck gate!

One of the first things you should do is get rid of the hard tanks. Those take up a lot of space for little benefit.

Very interested in how these tabs turn out for you along with your controller system. Hope you will share pics and info once you get to test!

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COV2    2

Wow.  So much good information.  I too would be interested in how those tabs turn out.  With all this great guidance I am going to play around with the setup. I'll see what I can get with the bags, lead, stock tanks, and suck gate.  If that is not what meeting expectations I will remove the hard tanks and go with bags under the seats and probably look at replumbing.  Will try evenly weighting the boat with suck gate and listing for comparison.  Once I see how those tabs turn out it might be a project for next winter.  Even though I have another month of skiing (live in a ski resort) I can't wait for spring to play around with this.  I'll report back and can't thank all of you enough.  This is all new to me.

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Shaka    131

Try listing a bit with the suck gate. I had my best results with a slight list.

I'll let you guys know on the tabs. If they work like we think we will most likely offer them as a product.

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COV2    2

Went out to Powell last week.  For the first time launching, trailering, and driving a boat it went great.  We had and absolute blast.  Started dialing in the wave and port side was really good with the stock tank filled, 1000 in the rear locker, and 250 up front.  Only problem was the Nauticurl would not stick no matter what I tried.  I'm wondering if I just need to try a different wake shaper for the Enzo.  Never even weighted the boat for goofy due to the Nauticurl not sticking.  Lost it a couple of times and glad it could float.  Also loved the Navionics app I purchased.  I could retrace my path perfectly right back to where it fell off.

Any thoughts on getting the Nauticurl to stick or try a different one?

Thanks.

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Shaka    131

Mine works fine on my Enzo.

Make sure you're applying a bit of pressure right above the suction cup when you flip the lever. If the lever is easy to flip then it isn't locked.

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COV2    2

Thanks.  Probably was not locked.  Pretty easy to flip.  I'll try that next time out.  Guess I need to figure out how to lock it.  Maybe I should read instructions....

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Nick213    550

Ahh heck who needs those anyway, open a box throw the paperwork away and put the parts where they fit:coffee:

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InfinitySurf    189

I use the Nauticurl too...make sure you have even hard pressure on it before you flip the lever to lock the suction and do the back suction cup first. Like he said, if it flips over real easy, it did not create suction and lock on (once you do it a few times you will be able to feel the difference), sometimes it helps to have water on it too, but get back one locked on first and then put pressure on very front of the Nauticurl in front of suction cup, press hard and lock that one into place. I have had mine since Feb of last year and once I figured out how to lock it on, it does not come off.

Also it does not need to be at very back of boat, you may have it on a curved part where its harder to get suction and why you were having issues...I run mine about 12" forward of the back of boat and really you can also run it further forward up to 24" if needed...you may even want to play with that since it can change the shape and length of wave a little bit depending on how far forward/back you have it. Also, if you bury the entire gate into the water, you will get a washy wave, you want the gate to be even with or just out of the water, so do not install it until you have all your ballast full (when surfing the gate will throw a rooster tail if installed properly cause top of it is a little bit out of water). Sometimes the wave is a little better with slight list too (talking couple hundred pounds which you could experiment with by moving people around a little bit. Have fun!

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Hein    36
Posted (edited)

Want to try one of my cheap a$$ suck wedges?  I've got an extra one I could send out for you to try. Advise given about attaching the suction cups is spot on. I install ours below the waterline and make sure there is no air under the cups. Water is not nearly as compressible as air so creates a very strong suction. It goes right ahead of the sideswipe on our boat. The wedge surface is smaller but it's completely submerged with our ballast system filled. Fits on the middle section of the hull profile in the back.

Photo below is of an earlier version. Current design has a smaller wedge plate.  We've never lost it but it does float. Suggest painting it yellow.  We carry a spare in case it falls off and we can't recover it.

suck_gate_v3_ahead_of_sidswipe.jpg

Edited by Hein

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