Jake707

I did. They do not have it.

I spent a few hours taking the existing unit apart. It was rusted stiff. I broker out the wire wheel and wire brush and scrubbed most of the rust out and was able to break the piston free to finish disassembling it. Parts look pretty good once all the rust is knocked off. I think I’m going to try and re run it. I’ll have to make a gasket. Worth a try since every other options seems to be $600+ in conversions.

The Atwood unit I pulled out is actually angled along the top where all of these are flat. Not sure if I could build a type of wedge to angle them or not or if it matters. here’s a link for a pic since I can’t post them. This company doesn’t have it although it says available. https://bendtrailers.com/lippert-atwood-master-cylinder-85841/

So the brake actuator master cylinder on my 2000 centurion went out and is all rusted inside. Took it all apart only to find out Atwood no longer makes the master cylinder I need (atwood 85841) and there’s not replacement?! read somewhere that the only option is to replace the actuator assembly, but on my trailer it’s all welded in, not bolted in like the videos I’ve found. is my only option really to cut the welds, brake this actuator off and then install a generic actuator? Nobody has had issues with their older trailers? I couldn’t find anything online of similar issues.

Haven’t hear anything about this board. Is it new? shameless plug alert my 5’2” inland surfer swallow tail is great for big riders and rookies who want to be able to still “surf” and not just stands there on a door slab haha

Well I couldn’t mount it down firing. There wasn’t enough lip on the sub side of the box. I have it back in as it was for now so I could make sure it’s tuned and ready to go. Still debating on rotating it 90 degrees so it fires into the built in cooler area.

Thanks Wylie. I thought about downforce as well and thought it might even enhance the bass since it would send it throughout the boat floor but I don’t think I have enough head space on the far end where it comes up to the back of the bow seat. I could maybe get an inch or so but that wouldn’t be enough for excursion if I put the sub on that end. But if I put the sub downward on the steering wheel end it would have enough space since that end is propped on top of that built in footrest. So it actually sits at an angle with a gap between the box and floor most of the way. That would put the vent on the bow side and an inch clearance should be plenty right? There was zero signs of water in that area. More just dust and dirt, I will say these boat designers thought well on channeling water to designated areas. Even the cup holders have small hoses that feed into the main channel back to the bilge. here’s a link to a similar box shape/design as mine but mine is a 12 and the sub is more on the opposite end of the vent not in the middle like this one. I can’t post the picture of my actual box so I looked for a google image of something close. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-uGeDZrXf3xM/p_953E1X15V2/Memphis-Audio-15-PE1X15V2.html

With the size of my box that wouldn’t be an option. It would only fit in the area long ways so I could keep the sub facing up or rotate 90 degrees and have it facing either the walk way cooler or side of the boat its a 2.5 cubic foot rectangle shaped box.

Ok long story short I’ve been chasing a buzzing noise on my sub and pulled out the ported box built under the helm to see if it was the sub. It wasn’t. Had the amp bench tested and the RF t1500 went out and is sending out buzzing noises. So I’ll have to replace it. my question is I noticed the box is mounted under the helm so the sub and vent point up. There was a good amount of dust on top of the sub. No water or anything. Does it matter which direction the sub faces? Should I put it back pointing up or rotate it to point towards the middle of the boat/walkway?

Do you ride level weighted with a suck gate or list the boat and switch sides of the ballast often? Do you have two reversible pumps or just the stock one plus a throw over type pump? If level, I’d personally dam near just leave the center full all the time as it doesn’t make or break anything really, or hook the center to tank to a cheap as you can pump, reroute the stock reversible to the front sac and a large reversible to the two sacs. That would be decent and most likely your cheapest. I only rode level with a suckgate on my Elite and only have one reversible Jabsoc King pump for the rear sacs and a tsunami for the v shape under the bow sac. I plan to add a second pump for that sac later but for now it’s fine. Once full you’re set and it only takes me 10-15 minutes to get set up so no big deal to me.

got the cover in about a week or so ago. Took about a week to come in. It’s nice quality for sure. We cleaned the boat up again and put it on today. I’m def pleased. Glad I found the deal. Is 9.5 oz sunbrella material so it should hold up well but time will tell. Cant post pics but it’s a nice tight fit.

If you’re not a paying member you’ll have to use s third party host for pictures. Welcome to the forum

Yup, it was for my boat with the ProFlight tower so, Im assuming, like my old cover it will have cutouts and Velcro to go around the tower legs. Should have it next week.

That link was a Westland brand cover using Sunbrella 9.5oz fabric. I ended up getting it haha hopefully its good. I didn't get an over the platform add on as I have the Teak platform and I can re surface if needed but they seem to hold up really well. Ended up being $494 delivered and I ordered a sew in vent and pole support as well to put in the middle of the boat for another $50