Jake707

If you have the ability take pictures as you go and do a nice write up on it for the next guy. I don't know If Ill be able to located those parts again a couple years down the road haha

annnnnnnnnnnnnnd boom, little more digging and I got the full name, Southco Sundecker Latch. Here's a link on Amazon, might find them elsewhere as well. https://www.amazon.com/Southco-MT-03-10-5-Sundecker-Panel-Latches/dp/B01A97ZVLQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1526401772&sr=1-1&keywords=southco+sundecker+latch

Good thing I don't delete work emails. Looks like the link I bought my latch no longer works so that company doesn't offer it anymore. Its a Southco latch. Below are a couple links This link is to the website I bought my latch at originally however my model is no longer listed http://southco.hardwarespecialty.com/ This is a link to Southco's website showing the exact latch I went with http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/southco/product-22514-55394.html

When I got my Elite a few years back I ordered what the parts book said I should have but ended up receiving one that didn't match. Like rhino said there's actually multiple options for the same boat. Since this is your first go around as crappy as it is I would remove the old one and take it down to your local boat supply, most of them have a counter top diagram with all the different shapes and sizes with the item numbers to order. Once you have that from then on you can order online or through the shop without waiting to remove the old so you can do it at the same time.

BOOM!!!! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IV6AYE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0JCSTK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you tow your boat then yes I would make sure to add the locking mech. While that hatch is heavy as hell, with those shocks on it would only take a decent bump in the road to lift the hatch high enough for those shocks to spring it up the rest of the way and that thing would be a huge sale on the freeway the whole 2.5 seconds I think it would last before ripping off the rear hinges haha Yea, when I first got the boat, I thought oh pooh we fancy with the motor hinge.................... and by the second trip out we realized how many times we went in and out of there each time waiting the 30 plus seconds for it to open and close, needless to say we got over it real quick.

That's just the green/red light bar for parking in the water over night I think. It plugs in to the port hole on the starboard side rail. Never used it but it came with the boat and mounts there for storage. Im sure my terminology and usage are off since Im a daytime lake dweller only haha

I didn't do a write up but I posted pics of it for someone else in this thread. I think I pulled inspiration for it from the old Malibu forum but I don't think that exisists anymore. Ill have to look around and see if I can find where I got the hardware and shocks.

I would check the breaker like mentioned. If it were a neutral switch issue other electronics would still work. The fact that all power shuts off for everything points to power supply, your batter, and if it were connections at the battery they would be arching and leave evidence. So follow the ground from the battery to block, ensure those are solid and no corrosion. Then do the same with the power, from the battery to the starter, starter to the breaker making sure all are tight and no rust or corrosion. My first step would be to start it in the driveway then wiggle the wire are the breaker first and see what happens just don't zap yourself...... it hurts. Also sounds like you have the single piece rear hatch with hydraulic actuator like my Elite. One of the better "upgrades" I did was ditch the actuator and installed hinge shocks on the sides and a pull handle locking mechanism like the newer boats, unless you plan on redoing the whole interior then I would suggest converting to a three piece hatch design.

You should never need to combine unless your main battery dies on you. I only select to ON when using my boat. This keeps the stereo and the engine batteries separate. I can, and have, played the stereo in a cove until the battery died but was able to start up the engine no problem because of the isolation from the switch. Had I been on combine, I would have had more time to listen to the stereo but would have killed both batteries and then been stuck. Either you heard the dealer wrong or they have no clue what they are selling. JMO but I would be leery with there service department after a statement like that. They might charge you double to change your headlight fluids..........

Glad you figured it out

Just out of curiosity is there a "science" to grinding the rudder or just grind some test drive it and repeat until its right?

I wouldn't think it makes it top heavy, plus its mounted so no real side to side motion or stress on it. I wont go into too many details but lets just say it held my wife and I juuuuuuuuuuust fine.

Keep us posted but timing wise it sounds like its all coming together with the o rings and new pump delivering about the same time.

Heres a link to what I did, but apparently I didn't take any pictures once wrapped in vinyl but you get the idea. It fits great http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/11094-custom-bolster-build/&tab=comments#comment-148080