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Ballast Build - 2008 Enzo SV 240 - It Begins

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volzalum    280

It's not very complicated. Switch for each sac, relay for each pump, and diode for each valve between switch and valve for fill side. Use the current switch power for the relay control. The drains can be connected off the drain side of the switch in parallel if more than 1.

Then set up a new fused power for the pumps either directly from battery or a new junction box.

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DarksideR    1,679

Not sure I can see how you'll switch sides though. I guess with two pumps, it doesn't matter if you had one filling and one emptying vs. two emptying then two filling. Either way should take the same time. A third pump used as a crossover would be the best use of time savings. Would make the wiring that much more interesting!!! LOL

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chadr    328
Not sure I can see how you'll switch sides though. I guess with two pumps, it doesn't matter if you had one filling and one emptying vs. two emptying then two filling. Either way should take the same time. A third pump used as a crossover would be the best use of time savings. Would make the wiring that much more interesting!!! LOL

Not really worrying about switching sides with this yet. I would have to figure in a transfer pump somehow and that isn't in my budget for this year! LOL

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BenHolloway    29

I wouldn't worry about wakemakers quality they have the ability to turn out sweet products and all those guys really care about what they do... as for the relay block you just need one, then the relays and some patience... it takes some time to wire up but man does it come out sweet.

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chadr    328

25ac1b3aa821445ea6994aa122c0e6d9.jpg1d8b85241e3c4fe2e455ac276de87f49.jpg

Valves came in today! They have a capacitor that needs charged for a few minutes before use.

Excited about this!!!!

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chadr    328

Made some headway today on the manifold!

e6daf15c9215eb4586f303447c1ed7bc.jpg

Cut the PVC connections on the chops saw at 2-1/4". Here it is almost put together. Longer side will be for port side. Short side will be for starboard! Valves will stick out toward the engine.

fa57b6b8ecaa007d89d3e69977c8543b.jpg

I may paint it so it looks good. Can't have purple all over it!

Edited by chadr

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DarksideR    1,679

Looking good! Where you gonna locate it?

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chadr    328
Looking good! Where you gonna locate it?

Right where the existing sprinkler valves are! Going to take the old valves out and fit this right in the area right behind the engine. That way I don't have to reroute the wiring from the existing valves.

My plumbing is already centrally located back there also. Should be able to route the lines pretty easily that way.

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chadr    328

It will go in something like this!

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I still have to remove my old valves and get my fittings for quick connections! Want to use quick connects on all of the lines unless budget constraints come into play!

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chadr    328

Ok. Need everyone's input! Option 1: install these!

these:

http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-pro-x-series-fitting-w746.html

Or option 2 (substantially cheaper because I would not have to buy both fittings):

http://www.wakemakers.com/1-inch-thread-barb-elbow-adapter.html

How often will I worry about taking those fittings apart at the manifold?

 

I worry about installing it and then not being able to hook the hoses up after its mounted.

Edited by chadr

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Rhale    80

Have you tried to thread anything into the valves to see where they end up orientating? Will a pvc elbow thread into them, that way you could see if option 2 is really a decent option.

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chadr    328
Have you tried to thread anything into the valves to see where they end up orientating? Will a pvc elbow thread into them, that way you could see if option 2 is really a decent option.

No. I haven't yet. Was thinking of a straight coupling if I couldn't get them to orient correctly! Like this!

http://www.wakemakers.com/barbed-hose-fitting.html

Any hardware store has these also! It's a matter of about $2.50 compared to $12 on the price difference. I have 5 of these to buy! Ouch!

Edited by chadr

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DarksideR    1,679

I like the idea of the quick connects. It'll be much easier to fix a malfunctioning valve(knock on wood) vs a standard hose barb. But they definitely add up

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chadr    328

I like the idea of the quick connects. It'll be much easier to fix a malfunctioning valve(knock on wood) vs a standard hose barb. But they definitely add up

Exactly what I was thinking!

I guess for the money I could try it with the hose barb and if I didn't like it I could switch them out at a later date. I would only be out about the cost of one of the quick connect setups that way!

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Rhale    80

Exactly what I was thinking!

I guess for the money I could try it with the hose barb and if I didn't like it I could switch them out at a later date. I would only be out about the cost of one of the quick connect setups that way!

 

agreed!

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chadr    328

Look what showed up! 7 terminal switches! b1c48fe7b75d7e31e5e432a4057cd9eb.jpg9e6dd18736f4fcf22b0dc0e473199950.jpg

Now I just have to figure out what to do with the relays and if I need all 5 or not. Still debating on that one!

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chadr    328

Need an opinion on wether I should buy hose clamps or if I should invest in crimp clamps. Hose clamps are universal but crimp clamps don't have sharp straps that can cut the ballast bags. Crimp tool is $10. Clamps are fairly cheap too.

 

Opinions???

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boatnut    230
Need an opinion on wether I should buy hose clamps or if I should invest in crimp clamps. Hose clamps are universal but crimp clamps don't have sharp straps that can cut the ballast bags. Crimp tool is $10. Clamps are fairly cheap too.

 

Opinions???

I am thinking you answered your own question :)

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chadr    328
I am thinking you answered your own question :)

Have you ever used them? Just wondering!

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