Ballast Version 2

[Troy 234]

Hey Troy,

 

How many of your connectors/fittings did you glue together? Just wondering how well this works. I thought about using glued fittings (primer and proper flexible PVC glue) to eliminate some of the restriction of the barbed fittings. Anyone else glued the flexible PVC without any issues? I know that the glue stays a little soft so I was worried about it coming apart.

 

Ron

I just went from the output of the pump to the 1100 sac. Today was the first day using it and it worked great. Hope it lasts!

[Troy 234]

Looks dialed in Nice job Troy

Thanks! Had a BLAST today!!!! Water was perfect!

[Troy 234]

Big,

Did you see the video? making sure it worked.

[Bigcatpt 408]

Yes! Thanks for posting that. I am going to do something similar for my custom goofy upside down Avy walkthru sac.

[Troy 234]

Cool!!!! It works great been using the sac on the seat both time we have been out. Works great for fill and empty!

[duramat 462]

Troy, that's just awesome. I need to look into that some more, I'm digging the idea.

[bhanson 12]

When you say "Big Johnson" are you talking about the 720 gph Ultras or is there a new pump that I am missing? Without getting into the "religious debate" of aerators versus impellers, I have found that 1200 gph Tsunamis are much faster than the Johnson Ultra, IF you can mount them well below waterline and IF you have sufficien-diameter plumbing to provide good water flow. Otherwise, the aerators can be tough to prime and may not reach their full flow capacity, whereas the impellers self-prime and will deliver their spec'ed flow rate pretty consistently. Of course, if you other bottlenecks in the system (sprinkler valves, lots of 90s, small-diameter plumbing) then all bets are off.

[Bigcatpt 408]

Yes the "Big Johnson" is the Johnson Ultra Ballast pump that is rated at 12 gpm or 720 gph. They are a little faster than the Jabsco Ballast Puppy that I believe is rated at 9 gpm or 540 gph.

 

There has been much debate on impeller pumps vs aerators and each has his its pro's and cons. Many will profess their undying love for whichever is their favorite. But I don't think you will get much argument that you could get better/faster performance out of an aerator pump IF you mount them below waterline, IF you can get them to prime, IF you have sufficient diameter plumbing, IF you are not using sprinkler valves, IF you don't have any bottlenecks, IF you don't mind a lot of one way valves, IF you don't mind running a bunch of extra hose because they are not reversible, and IF you don't mind drilling a bunch of extra holes in your boat for side dump thru hulls. That is a lot of "IFs"! But they are really quiet and have low power requirements.

 

This is a very interesting read. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/1970-aerator-pumps-electric-valves-controlled-test/?&p=19150&hl=%2Baerator+%2Bpump+%2Bflow+%2Btest&fromsearch=1#entry19150

 

Another good read... http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=790817

[duramat 462]

I don't like iffy situations. LOL

[firemanron 3]

2 Questions,,

 

Does anyone know how to remove the stock Mayfair from the center hard tank? I had a quick look at it last night and it seems a little odd. Does it just threaded in? Could it be that easy??

 

Has anyone installed 4 thru hulls in an Avy? 2 looks like no problem 4 gets complicated.

 

Ron

[Lake Water Connoisseur 5]

2 Questions,,

 

Does anyone know how to remove the stock Mayfair from the center hard tank? I had a quick look at it last night and it seems a little odd. Does it just threaded in? Could it be that easy??

 

Has anyone installed 4 thru hulls in an Avy? 2 looks like no problem 4 gets complicated.

 

Ron

 

As long at it's the same as the port and starboard rear tanks, that yellow housing is threaded directly into the tank and just rotates out. You'll probably have to loosen at least the rear tank brackets so you can lift up the tank enough to rotate that housing all the way around to unscrew it. Of course you'll have to pop the cartridge out of the housing first by pulling the little black tab out while rotating the cartridge approximately 1/8 turn, counterclockwise.

 

I have no experience drilling into my hull.

[Tommywalton1974 175]

I had a nightmare last night, no one would sell me sprinkler valve parts?

 

Hate those things

[Lake Water Connoisseur 5]

Anybody have any experience with these type valves in place of the sprinkler valves?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-volt-DC-VITON-SEAL-B21V-/290795289676?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b4bffc4c

 

It looks to have a larger orifice and should be less restrictive than the sprinkler valves. Cost is higher than a sprinkler valve, but it would definitely more cost effective than dedicating water puppies to each sac.

[jiriki 13]

I have experience with their 1/4" version. It didn't last long. The body was plastic though. It clicks very loud. It ended up leaking. This one appears to be made of brass so it might be better.

[Troy 234]

2 Questions,,

 

Does anyone know how to remove the stock Mayfair from the center hard tank? I had a quick look at it last night and it seems a little odd. Does it just threaded in? Could it be that easy??

 

Has anyone installed 4 thru hulls in an Avy? 2 looks like no problem 4 gets complicated.

 

Ron

Why add 4? I added thru hulls. To the side and to the bottom. No issues.

Make sure you get a new hole saw, line up where you want the hole (double and triple check) drill a starter hole (same size drill bit as the center drill bit of the hole saw) then run the hole saw backwards until through the gel coat, run the hole saw forward until you drilled thru the hull. Always make sure nothing is behind where you want to drill. Very nerve wrecking but I haven't had any issues (knock on wood!!!)

[Tommywalton1974 175]

In an attempt to simplify my Enzo sac install, I ran no overflow or vent lines. Just one air bleed valve on top of the sac. After the first fill I bled the air. Now it collapses like a raisin when drained. No air at all yet maybe 10 fills so far. I like to look at things back there when I first go out so if it needs a little bleeding every now and then I'll just do it as needed

[firemanron 3]

Why add 4? I added thru hulls. To the side and to the bottom. No issues.

Make sure you get a new hole saw, line up where you want the hole (double and triple check) drill a starter hole (same size drill bit as the center drill bit of the hole saw) then run the hole saw backwards until through the gel coat, run the hole saw forward until you drilled thru the hull. Always make sure nothing is behind where you want to drill. Very nerve wrecking but I haven't had any issues (knock on wood!!!)

 

4 total, 1 is existing and I want to add 3 new ones so that each pump has its own thru hull. I know some guys go with 2 pumps per thru hull but I wanted go with dedicated thru hulls. I have no issues with drilling holes in the bottom of my boat but it is a little tight when you get to 4. If I spread them out a bit 2 would be under/beside the V-drive. I thought someone might have already done this and could provide me with some advice.

[Troy. R 198]

You could do two 1 1/4" inlets instead of four 1"...

I have 4 pumps on two 1" inlets and have no issues with flow, but if that's your concern going 1 1/4 will take care of that.

[duramat 462]

You could do two 1 1/4" inlets instead of four 1"...

I have 4 pumps on two 1" inlets and have no issues with flow, but if that's your concern going 1 1/4 will take care of that.

I run two pumps on my 1".

 

1.25" is starting to get kinda big...remember you have to bend that stuff and have room to do it

[Troy. R 198]

I was thinking 1 1/4 just on the inlet then tee to two 1" hoses to the pumps...