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The fuel filter looks fine. It's similar in design to an oil filter, and you un-screw the cartridge and install a new one. Now is a good time to do this (you don't want to foul your new carb with crap).

 

Ok Ill be sure to change the filter

 

That little electrical box is, I believe, your ignition electronics, ballast resistor, etc. I can't tell where it's mounted, but it does look corroded. Typically those are mounted high on the back of the motor, above where the starter sits. But when I look at the overhead picture you posted, that stuff looks to be already there. So I don't really know what that is.

 

Ok I will most likey rewire this unit and make it water tight

 

The studs next to your center drain hole look kinda big for a bilge pump, and I notice you're missing your center tow pylon. I'm guessing that's what's supposed to go there. Do you have it? You'll need it.

 

Is the center tow pylon like a skylon? A pole that bolts to the boat that you hook the tow rope too? If so then I definitely do not have it. I tried googling "Center Tow Pylon" but couldnt get good info or part number for it

 

On your trailer, I think you're missing two caps, the real one for the reservoir, and the black plastic "cover". I'd be surprised if your surge brakes work very well; brake fluid is hydrophilic and will collect water and air like crazy when left open.

 

Ill probably swing the trailer down to a trailer shop and see if they can help me with that one

 

On the back, the little black tube connects to your speedomoter (try blowing into it really hard and have a buddy tell you if the needle moves). It needs a pitot, Originally it was an Airguide, but they don't exist anymore. If you just want it to work, then you can get this: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=769B

If you want to "restore" it, then you'll have to find one on ebay. If you want to be happy, you'll replace it with a paddlewheel or gps speedo unit.

 

I have what I think is a spedo bolted to the right rear of the boat. It has that fin looking device that you linked. Ill blow into that other hose and see if the spedo moves. I just didnt want any hoses taking in water.

 

It looks great. I'm surprised, the motor has been ravaged, but the exterior looks awesome!

 

Ya I'm glad cosmetically it was taken care of, otherwise I would've past on it. Especially since I was already taking a gamble by not hearing it run or having a knowledgable previous owner! Again, thanks for all your help super!

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Interesting I don't have any holes for a pylon to be mounted :/

 

Question on the drain plugs. I have two to choose from. What do you suggest?

KGrHqZhgFyT3pSBQZiD5gcQ60_1_zps6dd2f38e.

 

Or this...

 

Bm9UUUwBGkKGrHqQH-CIEtpvKevb0BLhkIe5Eg_3

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duramat    462

The brass threaded one. Plumbing aisle at Home Depot 1/2" for like $3

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superdtf    68

The brass threaded one. Plumbing aisle at Home Depot 1/2" for like $3

Correct, the rear drain will be the 1/2" plug shown above. The center drain plug will be 3/4" and you'll really, really want it to have a t-handle: http://greatlakesskipper.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/1/31051-1-lg.jpg

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fastjohnny    0

I once had a boat of similar vintage. I may have some stuff still, such as extra plug wires, fuel pump, coil, etc. You've gotten good advice to your questions so far. As far as a carb goes, check what a new one runs at SKIDIM, if it is close to what the rebuilds are going for, just get the new one.

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Thanks for the reply fast. Make a list of anything you can find and send me a pm. As for the carb, skidIm wanted $500 so I bought rebuilt one on ebay with a lifetime warranty.

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Skibumm    184

I'm curious if you have a hole in the floor right infront of the engine for the pylon and if not how did they cover it? It should be someting that can't be missed. I 3/4 plug below the front engine is a t handle one but it does not need to be. Mine is a t handle and I never take it out. I would go take a pic of my pylon mount but my boat is not here right now. I can as soon as I get it back in a couple of days. You should have two speedos in your dash one for the right pickup tube and one for the left pick up tube. Is the carb you purchased off of ebay a marine version or is it automotive? the fuel line inlet is different on the two. I do not have a spark arrestor on mine as I switched it out for a K&N filter that fits the same housing as the spark arrestor. Just make sure that what ever route you go that it is not too tall for the engine cover mine is like and 1 1/2 high is all.

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superdtf    68

I'm curious if you have a hole in the floor right infront of the engine for the pylon and if not how did they cover it? It should be someting that can't be missed. I 3/4 plug below the front engine is a t handle one but it does not need to be. Mine is a t handle and I never take it out. I would go take a pic of my pylon mount but my boat is not here right now. I can as soon as I get it back in a couple of days. You should have two speedos in your dash one for the right pickup tube and one for the left pick up tube. Is the carb you purchased off of ebay a marine version or is it automotive? the fuel line inlet is different on the two. I do not have a spark arrestor on mine as I switched it out for a K&N filter that fits the same housing as the spark arrestor. Just make sure that what ever route you go that it is not too tall for the engine cover mine is like and 1 1/2 high is all.

The carb was the right one: Holley 4160 marine 600CFM with the correct fitting to use a PCM or indmar steel fuel line.

 

I don't recommend the K&N filter as a replacement for the marine spark arrestor. Your marine spark arrestor does two things: first it "arrests" sparks (and much more commonly, carb backfires). Second, it has the right fittings for your breather and your fuel filter overflow to dump fuel down the carb in the case of a malfunction in your fuel pump (assuming you have a marine fuel pump).

 

SKibumm, if you switched yours out, perhaps you're willing to send yours to our new member who needs one and is short on funds. ;)

 

Now, you need this fuel pump: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA080002A

And this fuel line: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA085002B

Edited by superdtf

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superdtf    68

And now that I think about it, why don't you take your distributor cap off and snap a pic of the inside of that... and the top of the distributor after you take the cap off. Remember, don't take the wires off.

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superdtf    68

I predict green icicles

In Pismo Beach? Probably.

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Nick213    583

 

In Pismo Beach? Probably.

more then likely salt water air sucks in western Cali :(

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I'm curious if you have a hole in the floor right infront of the engine for the pylon and if not how did they cover it? It should be someting that can't be missed. I 3/4 plug below the front engine is a t handle one but it does not need to be. Mine is a t handle and I never take it out. I would go take a pic of my pylon mount but my boat is not here right now. I can as soon as I get it back in a couple of days. You should have two speedos in your dash one for the right pickup tube and one for the left pick up tube. Is the carb you purchased off of ebay a marine version or is it automotive? the fuel line inlet is different on the two. I do not have a spark arrestor on mine as I switched it out for a K&N filter that fits the same housing as the spark arrestor. Just make sure that what ever route you go that it is not too tall for the engine cover mine is like and 1 1/2 high is all.

 

I have no hole in the floor in front of the engine nor does it appear to have been patched. I was able to screw in the 1/2" drain plug into the bilge drain hole so I'm thinking its not 3/4". I have two spedo units attached on the rear of the boat but only the right side is hooked up correctly. I am missing a spedo gauge on the dash then cause I only have one. Why does it need two?

 

And now that I think about it, why don't you take your distributor cap off and snap a pic of the inside of that... and the top of the distributor after you take the cap off. Remember, don't take the wires off.

 

Ok Ill post a pic of it.

 

I spent the day redoing all the wiring on the boat. Got all the wires water tight in the bilge area and wired the float switch the way it is suppose to be. Fixed the wiring on my nav lights at the switch as well. All thats left is wiring in a stereo/Speakers. I also replaced the starter today and was finally able to see the motor turn. I was very happy to see it not seized ha.

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fastjohnny    0

All tournament boats came with 2 speedo's for accuracy. When you turn, especially hard turn, one pitot will be out of the water.

 

Did you use a marinized starter?

 

I'll take a look at everything I've got.

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All tournament boats came with 2 speedo's for accuracy. When you turn, especially hard turn, one pitot will be out of the water.

 

Did you use a marinized starter?

 

I'll take a look at everything I've got.

Ok ill hook up the other spedo then. Yup I used a marinzed starter.

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mancho    85

If your trying to save money, You don't need the other speedo ... We have two, and I routinely ignore the other one... Even if is working. Always seems to be a few mph off from each other.

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does anyone know where I can get the 1" carb spacer I need? I had it in my wish list on skidim but I guess they no longer offer it because I cant find it anymore.

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another question...Is there supposed to be a little box shaped mount that screws to the deck for the driver seat? Then the driver seat screws into that? The way its set up, the driver seat mounts strait to the deck. I feel like a cholo in it because of how low it sits.

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