Johnson vs Jabsco

[Joe B 17]

I have both pumps and the Johnson is way faster. Puppy is 4yrs old and running strong, Johnson is 1 yr old and blazing fast (well that's an exageration, but faster).

 

Johnson sucks more electricty.

[Jackfly 0]

I have 3 9 year old jabsco's on my boat. I fill and drain 1650 in 8 minutes. I switched 2 pumps to green impellers this year, and put a new black impeller in one. I was interested in seeing if water really did leak past the green ones. Yup, it does. But I had to unstick the black impeller 3 times, a real pita. I think that installing impeller pumps is way easier than putting aerators in to fill.

[duramat 462]

When you hold the pumps side by side it is obvious which one looks better made.The jabsco pumps have had zero issues since the green impellers came out.T price and his buddy with the Malibu switch sides many times during the day which gives the pump a heavy work out.I am sure you have never had a problem as we all know you only fill one side and make your goofy friends ride heel side which only requires one fill and one empty per trip.I have never had a problem with my jabsco pumps in two seasons were as T price and his buddy both had pump failures in their first season.The johnson pumps are a great value and are faster than the jabsco pumps but my experience has been they are not as durable.I used the johnson pumps in their ballast installs because of all the so called data and they came up short.I will be using only jabsco pumps in the future on all my ballast installs.JMTC........................................H

 

H, how many pumps did Price lose prematurely? and what direction were they mounted in? Vertically or Horizontly?

How many pumps did the Malibu guy go through and what direction were they mounted in? Verticlly or Horizontly?

 

Curious

[h20king 794]

Dura T lost one pump and the Malibu lost two pumps. I used six Johnson pumps between the two installs and three failed thats a 50% failure rate. The pumps were mounted vertical on the Malibu and horizontal on T'S boat and the pumps are in a dry location.I am not saying they are a bad pump but my experience has been they are just not as durable as the Jabsco..............................................H

[duramat 462]

I was just curious if to the way they were mounted played any part. I could see one pump failing on a boat but 2? Something tells me theres more to it than just "They failed". That seems really odd that 2 on that install went bad. There's got to be a reason i.e. were the pumps starved under/no load, motor drawing to much amps (voltage drop), incorrect gauge of wire for the load and distance, were the pumps submersed or motor shorted out due to water. I just cant see a 50% failure on them pumps. Them pumps should last a long long time and not fritz out in a short time (1 season) Out of curiousity what did you pull for wire?

[h20king 794]

all pumps had their own thru hull and the wiring was overkill with auto resettable breakers.Every wire job my brother does comes with a lifetime warranty .Could have been a bad run on pumps who knows but they lost my trust.I set T and his buddy up with my brothers shop for their ballast install donated my time to make sure they got killer systems and then to have them have problems the first season is wrong and made me feel like an a$$.I can understand check valves failing but not the pumps.I am just sharing my experience I'm not saying don't buy them.When they work their great and are faster than the jabsco pumps with out a doubt.I am just willing to trade a little speed for reliability I want my stuff to work all the time nothing worse than having problems with kids on board................................................H

[duramat 462]

all pumps had their own thru hull and the wiring was overkill with auto resettable breakers.Every wire job my brother does comes with a lifetime warranty .Could have been a bad run on pumps who knows but they lost my trust.I set T and his buddy up with my brothers shop for their ballast install donated my time to make sure they got killer systems and then to have them have problems the first season is wrong and made me feel like an a$$.I can understand check valves failing but not the pumps.I am just sharing my experience I'm not saying don't buy them.When they work their great and are faster than the jabsco pumps with out a doubt.I am just willing to trade a little speed for reliability I want my stuff to work all the time nothing worse than having problems with kids on board................................................H

 

What exactly is this that Im looking at? (location) What gauge of wire is that? Have you another pic of the bus teminal and the wire feeding it? And the wire out to the pump motors are what gauge?

[CeeDee 16]

What year is your boat? The gauge wire, switch etc... might not be good enough for high amp draw.

 

Would the wiring be sufficient or would I have to install relays ? I plan on using the factory switch, just run the power wire from each pump to the two power wires on the Johnson pump.

[duramat 462]

Cee, at first Bigcat wired the power from the fuse buss supply from under the dash. I was having some issues with mine. My temps went through the roof, I was getting alarms. But if I ran my pumps with the engine off my temps were normal. Anyways I crawled down there and got looking at and began to think that the power buss supply probaly not rated for the additional 40 amps ontop of what it's drawing and supplying. Keep in mind, 40 amps is still petty big load. Anyways I recommend (what I did) was come off the battery then fuse it then send it to the switch and then the pump. Also, I'd pull 10 gauge. 12 is theoretically correct under normal conditions BUT you have/get voltage drop in low voltage (12v). Many think cause of low voltage you can use use smaller gauge, which is wrong. The lower the voltage, the higher the amps.

[truekaotik 458]

Cee, at first Bigcat wired the power from the fuse buss supply from under the dash. I was having some issues with mine. My temps went through the roof, I was getting alarms. But if I ran my pumps with the engine off my temps were normal. Anyways I crawled down there and got looking at and began to think that the power buss supply probaly not rated for the additional 40 amps ontop of what it's drawing and supplying. Keep in mind, 40 amps is still petty big load. Anyways I recommend (what I did) was come off the battery then fuse it then send it to the switch and then the pump. Also, I'd pull 10 gauge. 12 is theoretically correct under normal conditions BUT you have/get voltage drop in low voltage (12v). Many think cause of low voltage you can use use smaller gauge, which is wrong. The lower the voltage, the higher the amps.

Ok, first, I don't know anything about pumps or set ups... Now that's out the way...

Cee, Dura is a 100% correct on wire, 12 will work for the most part but 10 is way safer run. Never hook anything over 15 amps onto a pre-existing fuse panel in anything. 10g fused from battery straight to the 87 terminal on a basic 50 or 60 amp auto relay. Ground the 86 terminal. Then 10g going to your pumps off the 30 terminal on relay. Now to integrate the switch. On the positive output of the switch (after turned on) tag that to the 85 terminal on the relay. So when a positive trigger hits terminal 85, the cool inside will pull the switch to closed and complete the transfer of power and opens whatever is on 87 thru to 30 which is your output.. That way the power is not transferred thru the push switch for the pumps.. Now if it's under 10ft. From battery to pump 12g will work fine but over definitely requires 10g. Figure where the wire runs, not a straight shot from battery to pump... Just trying to help even though I don't know jack about pumps and all but I do relays and wires :-)... Oh don't use the socket if it comes with one for the relay, it only has 14 and 16g wire. Go directly to the terminal post of the relay with the 10 gauge. For the trigger and ground 14 or 16g is fine, it's just triggering the relay..

Edited November 22, 2011 by truekaotik

[Bigcatpt 408]

Cee, at first Bigcat wired the power from the fuse buss supply from under the dash. I was having some issues with mine. My temps went through the roof, I was getting alarms. But if I ran my pumps with the engine off my temps were normal. Anyways I crawled down there and got looking at and began to think that the power buss supply probaly not rated for the additional 40 amps ontop of what it's drawing and supplying. Keep in mind, 40 amps is still petty big load. Anyways I recommend (what I did) was come off the battery then fuse it then send it to the switch and then the pump. Also, I'd pull 10 gauge. 12 is theoretically correct under normal conditions BUT you have/get voltage drop in low voltage (12v). Many think cause of low voltage you can use use smaller gauge, which is wrong. The lower the voltage, the higher the amps.

 

Dura I don't think your actual engine temperature was ever really changing with the original set up. I think the current draw from the pumps was just giving you a false reading on your temp gauge. Because with the pumps off your temp would be normal around 170-180. Then the instant you turned on a pump the needle would JUMP to 200+ and the second you turned off the pump the needle would jump back to normal. Water temp does not change that fast. I think the pumps just made your gauge go haywire. I don't believe your engine temp was ever really changing. What do you think? I still think it was a good move to go directly off the battery though and run an independent fuse.

 

I have had mine running off the fuse block for 3 years now without any difficulty.

[duramat 462]

 

 

Dura I don't think your actual engine temperature was ever really changing with the

original set up. I think the current draw from the pumps was just giving you a false reading on your temp gauge. Because with the pumps off your temp would be normal around 170-180. Then the instant you turned on a pump the needle would JUMP to 200+ and the second you

turned off the pump the needle would jump back to normal. Water temp does not change that fast. I think the pumps just made your gauge go haywire. I don't believe your engine temp was ever really changing. What do you think? I still think it was a good move to go

directly off the battery though and run an independent fuse.

 

I have had mine running off the fuse block for 3 years now without any difficulty.

 

True! I think that the pumps were giving me some electrical issues when wired to the fuse block. I know that when conductors get hot the resistance goes up which impedes electrical current. I wonder if it was just too much that was being on that buss or feeder wire to it, which may be why I was having issues.

 

I know you and Moocher are wired to the fuse panel, maybe yours/his are bigger and more equipped for bigger loads than mine?

[duramat 462]

 

Ok, first, I don't know anything about pumps or set ups... Now that's out the way...

Cee, Dura is a 100% correct on wire, 12 will work for the most part but 10 is way safer run.

Never hook anything over 15 amps onto a pre-existing fuse panel in anything. 10g fused from battery straight to the 87 terminal on a basic 50 or 60 amp auto relay. Ground the 86 terminal. Then 10g going to your pumps off the 30 terminal on relay. Now to integrate the switch.

On the positive output of the switch (after turned on) tag that to the 85 terminal on the relay. So when a positive trigger hits terminal 85, the cool inside will pull the switch to closed and complete the transfer of power and opens whatever is on 87 thru to 30 which is your output.. That way the power is not transferred thru the push switch for

the pumps.. Now if it's under 10ft. From battery to pump 12g will work fine but over definitely requires 10g. Figure where the wire runs, not a straight shot from battery to pump... Just trying to help even though I don't know jack about pumps and all but I do relays and wires :-)... Oh don't

use the socket if it comes with one for the relay, it only has 14 and 16g wire. Go directly to the terminal post of the relay with the 10 gauge. For the trigger and ground 14 or 16g is fine, it's just triggering the relay..

 

X2! Excellent write up!

[CeeDee 16]

Thanks for the input. I guess i will just install a couple of relays then. I was just hoping to not have to run a power wire from the batteries to feed the relays is all. Just being lazy I guess. Oh well something to do over the winter I guess.

[truekaotik 458]

Thanks for the input. I guess i will just install a couple of relays then. I was just hoping to not have to run a power wire from the batteries to feed the relays is all. Just being lazy I guess. Oh well something to do over the winter I guess.

Understand a 100% bro... But it's actually not that bad, it's a straight shot from battery thru cooler and step. Should only have to pull one panel, prolly 4 screws... Just seems it would beat the time it would take to figure your panels load and voided amperage, or trial and error off the fuse block, but if you do try that route, find the thickest hot wire off the BACK of the panel and it may work flawless... This is where you get to make the call!!! ;-) oh and please solder your connection, especially in a boat. Ttaps and crimps do not give the quality of a good fusing of metal :-)

Edited November 23, 2011 by truekaotik

[truekaotik 458]

 

X2! Excellent write up!

Thanks :-) besides the fact it supposed to say coil not cool ;-) lmao I just realized I'm on a iPhone 4s and can dictate so hopefully it don't misspell as bad as me...

:-/

[Bigcatpt 408]

maybe yours are bigger and more equipped for bigger loads than mine?

 

Thats what she said..... LMAO! Just saying!

 

Sorry I had to!!!

Edited November 23, 2011 by Bigcatpt

[DarksideR 1,679]

There's the Bigcat we know and love^^^^

 

Great write ups guys. Wish there was some diagrams or pictures to go with them to help us "electrically challenged".

[truekaotik 458]

There's the Bigcat we know and love^^^^

 

Great write ups guys. Wish there was some diagrams or pictures to go with them to help us "electrically challenged".

Ask and you shall recieve brother!!!! Now this is just a sketch dont laugh, i cant draw either... LOL

Edited November 23, 2011 by truekaotik

[DarksideR 1,679]

Thanks Kaotik... but I'm still lost... sorta.

Is that box with the numbers the back of the switch? And the cables with the lines are grounds?

Sparky... I am not! LOL