Has anyone added a cooling fan for their amp?

[ReSession 165]

Has anyone added any cooling fans for their amps? My Boston Acoustic 5-channel 700watt tends to run hot and then start clipping out if I've been running it at a good level for a few hours...it has a built-in fan, but it doesn't seem to be doing the job. I'm pushing 4 Bullet 650 co-ax's in the boat + 4 Hollowpoint Bullets in pods on the tower + a 12" Boston sub.

 

In order to fix the problem and keep running longer and louder, my thoughts were:

 

a) install a few in-line fans

re-wire the power wire to the amp (currently 8 gauge, considering 4 gauge)

c) add a 1/2 - 1 farad capacitor

 

Has anyone run into similar issues and if so, what was your remedy?

[Troy 234]

Upgrading your power AND ground is a good thing.

Adding fans are nice. Use a relay that switches the fans on when the remote for the amps comes on.

Don't waste your money on the capacitors.

 

What is your voltage when the amps start to clip? Might have to add another battery.

[Avy c4 surfer 0]

my buddy added a fan on his 230, and put a switch on the dash.

he had something like a 1500 and 1200 watt amps, and the fan did a lot, especially on hot days.

another possibility would be to get some sort of circulating fan from the bottom of your cup holders by the glove box, maybe something like fan from a hair blow dryer [[sorta thing]].

 

ehh?

[Spud 7]

My sub amp always over heated on hot days. I installed a fan for a computer, I believe for a machine and that did the trick. I gets up to 112 deg here and a single little fan fixed. Don't go overboard, once air circulates it helps a lot.

[Avy c4 surfer 0]

My sub amp always over heated on hot days. I installed a fan for a computer, I believe for a machine and that did the trick. I gets up to 112 deg here and a single little fan fixed. Don't go overboard, once air circulates it helps a lot.

 

spud, where did you put the fan? in a cupholder or near the amps?

[volzalum 280]

I added 3/4 spacers under the amp to get the bottom away from the wall of the boat. I then installed a fan above the amp that blows over the fan from the top down (with the spacers it flows on both sides of the amp). It is wired through a relay that comes on from the amp remote wire. I will try to take pictures this weekend.

 

Here is the link to a similar fan (would have to check for receipt to see where I purchased it from):

 

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046

[ReSession 165]

Right on! Thanks for the info - I am running dual-batteries (nothing fancy, just the stock ones...but never experienced any power shortages...like dimming lights).

 

So I'll re-wire with 4 gauge and add that Stinger fan (thanks for the link, volzalum)

 

I may upgrade to new Optima's once I pull it out of storage in about a month...can't wait to get on the lake!

 

Greg

[WakeDoc 471]

Sounds like you might be running the amp too hot, drawing too much power. Keeping an amp at it's peak over time will wear it down. How are you running everything and at what loads? 4 tower, 4 in boat, 1 12" sub seems a little taxing on a 700 watt amp. what is the RMS of the amp?

[Foiler 1]

I like those type of fans like the Stinger, should work good and you have everything right there to easily hook it up using a 12v relay but 8 gauge sounds pretty small. It all really depends on the RMS watts total (to estimate amp draw) and the length of the wire and there are tables on the net to help determine that. Just remember that when it comes to wire there are no disadvantages other than cost to going to big. I have 4gauge going to all 3 of my amps and my sub amp instructions said that if the wire was over so many feet that I should run 2 guage. I bought my wire at knukoncepts. They have some really nice wire, I was impressed with the quality just don't get there budget copper clad aluminum wire because that stuff sucks.

[Foiler 1]

Just went and looked at knukoncepts site and this is the stuff that I got:

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX4BK

 

I don't know where I saw it but the diameter of the copper and strand count was much higher than most leading brands of wire, plus it is tinned copper which is better for marine applications. The jacket is transparent so it looks really sweet but what amazed me was how flexible it is, it is all most like handling a wet noodle.

[DavidEM 1]

ReSession,

 

The Boston Acoustics amplifier is rated for a 1-ohm load but you can't do that on all channels simultaneously. The individual output sections might withstand this but the collective load is too much for the power supply. So like WakeDoc said you should look into the load you're running. You could have a partially burnt voice coil with a lower than spec impedance contributing to your problem.

 

If your voltage is low its going to put an inordinate strain on this amplifier. Perhaps your batteries are not accepting and holding the charge that they once were. Hopefully you have an AC shore charger. Check and see how far your voltage drops after running the system hard for awhile.

 

B.A. makes a good amplifier but it can't adequately drive HLCDs if in fact thats what you have on the tower. In this case you really need a second large 2-channel amplifier dedicated to the tower speakers to distribute the workload and to bring the HLCDs to their potential.

 

A stiffening capacitor will do little to resolve your problem and we don't recommend them for boats as a rule.

 

The effectiveness of an external fan is minimized or maximized whether or not its used in conjunction with a shroud. Just because your amplifier is fan cooled doesn't mean its still operational as fan failures are fairly common. And in the case of the B.A. design this amplifier is absolutely dependent on fan cooling. Also, your B.A. amplifier has provisions to add more fans on the same internal track which would be more cost-effective and productive over an external fan.

 

And yes, 8-gauge is too light and will contribute to your problem.

 

David E.M.

[ReSession 165]

Here's a link to the Boston Acoustics amp - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Ox06zqJu7tR/p...tics-GT-50.html

• 14.4 volts:
  • at 4 ohms: 55 watts RMS x 4 at + 250 RMS watts x 1
    
  • at 2 ohms: 85 watts RMS x 4 + 350 watts x 1
    

When I set out to get a system for my boat, I just called the guys at Bullet and asked them to hook me up with a package deal after I told them what I wanted to accomplish, so this was the amp they sent over.

 

The 4 speakers in the boat are wired in parallel, along with the 4 speakers on the tower, and the 5th channel running to the sub.

 

Honestly, the speakers sound GREAT and I have only had the amp start turning off (due to heat) 1 time after running it for about 4-5 hours straight...I realize it's not the BEST amp out there, but not sure I'm ready to buy another amp before I test something like a fan?

 

I definitely do not run it at max (about 3/4)

 

Greg

[Foiler 1]

You have the right ohm load on the amp. 4 channels at 2 ohms but at 12.5 volts that would only be about 32 watts to each tower speaker. Using your current amp to run the 4 interior speakers and sub and then running a 2 channel amp at 2 ohms with much more power would probably net you a descent improvement and something like that can be bought pretty cheap, use the money that was going to be spent on the fan and cap for the extra amp!

[Spud 7]

spud, where did you put the fan? in a cupholder or near the amps?

 

You can get these at any computer store, I think mine is a little bigger, 120mm but pushed more air. It was for a mother board for a machine, and i made a L-bracket that screwed in under the amp. It did the trick and was only 20 bucks.

[Foiler 1]

I realize it's not the BEST amp out there, but not sure I'm ready to buy another amp before I test something like a fan?

 

 

I forgot to ad. Boston makes great amps!! You didn't say if your tower speakers were 6.5s or 7.7s but if you get a 2 channel amp such as a Boston gt-24 or gt-28, you will have a matching amp and a system that will rock. DavidEM may even have a better suggestion as they have used a lot of those speakers but I have seen some of those GT amps for pretty good prices.

[duffymahoney 10]

Dave whats the most rms you would run to a set of bullets, or a single bullet. Is 250rms too much?

 

Thanks

[DavidEM 1]

ReSession,

 

There's no doubt that the Boston Acoustics amplifier is a very good product. The fact is that there isn't a five or six-channel amplifier available from any manufacturer that will run all the in-boat speakers, plus subwoofer, and simultaneously drive four HLCD tower speakers, if that is what you have. Yes, it will get the job done, but you'll not realize the full capability of your tower HLCDs. Whether it is the Bullet HollowPoint HLCD or any other brand, its customary to use 150 watts per each speaker whereas you're running 42.5 watts to each... Just a fraction. Bullet Speakers recommends a GT-2200 just for the tower speakers which is 175 watts per each HLCD. You can dissipate more heat with more fans but I do believe you will eventually run into a product failure with this scenario. Again, I don't believe there is any other single amplifier that would be much of an improvement with this much responsibility. Coaxials would be fine but its the HLCDs that are a deal breaker.

 

FYI, the B.A. GT-50 has dual internal power supplies and therefore has provisions for twin 4-Ga. positives and twin 4-Ga. negatives. Also, the GT-50 crossover nomenclature doesn't track the frequency accurately. Tuning at a lower than normal highpass and lowpass frequency would definitely place alot of extra and unnecessary stress on your amplifier. You should visit this as well.

 

Believe me, I'm not being critical in any way. I'm just trying to help you to a permanent solution with better performance and solid reliability.

 

David E.M.

[DavidEM 1]

duffy,

 

Personally, I like as much over the top power as I can justify, even though I don't listen terribly loud. That much power in my hands would not be a risk because I would never clip the amplifier as I don't have much tolerance for distortion.

 

Speakers are typically damaged by continuous power as a direct result of clipping the amplifier which in turn causes compression. Compression translates to nothing getting a rest in terms of very finite intervals and therefore the heat build-up can't be dissipated. Speakers become toast when their thermal capacity is exceeded. And, it doesn't take a large amplifier to generate too much continuous power.

 

In contrast, speakers are less likely to fail when you apply significant peak power, even in excess of their continuous ratings. The extra peak power parlays into additional dynamic range. You may not hear it as necessarily more average volume but you'll definitely hear it as better contrast and clarity. That is what I'm after.

 

As an example, Tim built his most recent Tige' WetSounds demo boat with 1600 watts of power going to a Double-Up package rated at 800 watts total. Does it sound unusually good? Sure! Are the speakers at risk? Not really, if its tuned correctly and not abused. Most of us wouldn't have a problem but I wouldn't trust that excess to everyone.

 

David E.M.

[Colombian Surfer 2]

As an example, Tim built his most recent Tige' WetSounds demo boat with 1600 watts of power going to a Double-Up package rated at 800 watts total. Does it sound unusually good? Sure! Are the speakers at risk? Not really, if its tuned correctly and not abused. Most of us wouldn't have a problem but I wouldn't trust that excess to everyone.

 

David E.M.

 

I contacted Tim also for my tower and I knew he was going for the 2 Syn amps on the tower. He talked me into the same thing and that is what I did. Is it turned down, heII yes because I do not want to blow the speakers. But there is enough power that I do not have to worry about the amps getting hot or clipping issues. Like the saying goes: "With great power, comes great responsibility"

[duffymahoney 10]

Thanks Dave, I am building a cheap HLCD system with 4 770 bullets and a Hifonics ZXi-1010. Here are the amp specs. Should I run it full range? I am wiring it so the bullets with be 2ohm. So each speaker should get 250 rms. Got the amp off ebay for $175.

 

# RMS Power Output: 2 x 250 W @ 4 Ohms

# RMS Power Output: 2 x 500 W @ 2 Ohms

# RMS Power Output: 1 x 1000 W @ 4 Ohms

# Parametric bass EQ with 45Hz bass boost and variable control from 0d to 10db

# Variable Low Pass, High Pass/Subsonic Filter, Phase Shift and Level Control

# Crossover Selector for easy High Pass, Full Range or Low Pass operation

# Built-in system diagnostics protects from short circuits, over load, thermal over-heat and DC offset

# Bass remote included (ZXI6010, ZXI1010 and ZXI8010 only)

# Dimensions 15.75" L x 2.56" H x 9.45" W

# 2 Year Autosounds4less Warranty