Foiler

I want to do the same thing. I wanted to leave the tower up as well but there is no way that is going to happen for me, it would take an 11 foot door. I will do a 9 as well which already looks pretty big compared to the standard 7. A few unconventional things that I want to do is run a gas line to the garage so I can install a heater later, also a gas line in the floor of the patio that is capped off in the table area so I can build a fire pit table later. I also have the laundry room next to the master closet with a door connecting the two and I plan to install extra washer and dryer connections behind the existing set so I can eventually upgrade to double stacking units. Will take up the same amount of floor space as a standard washer and dryer but will be our peronal laundry mat. My must have is a corner lot with backyard access to park a boat, camper etc in the future.

I cut mine off. They hung down a lot lower then not having them on there.

I ruled any boat out with that tower when I was doing my search because of the height but since the top cap of the Tige is taller then the tower should set higher too?????????

If it is like my 2007 Centurion Typhoon then it is not the lanyard because my boat will crank but not fire when the lanyard is disconnected. When my boat won't crank I have to wiggle the shifter. Glad to hear were the switch is located because I have been meaning to look for it and try and adjust it. Mine is way to touchy.

Well there is no repacking since there isnt any grease but changing the seal isn't to difficult. Remove wheel, remove brake caliper, use a rubber mallet or block of wood and keep hitting the side of the cover with the window (alternating sides) to walk it out. Once it is out remove the nut and the rotor will slide off of the spindle and you will see the seal. Pry it out and install a new one using a seal driver or a block of wood is what I used.

According to the owners manual, you should try and get all the gas out if it has ethonal or whatever its called in it. Otherwise you should fill the tank completely full so there is no room for condensation. I just fill mine up and ad fuel treatment. You should change your oil before you put it up and should be part of your winterizing. I would never leave my boat in a heated garage without winterizing. It isn't uncommon for a winter storm to come in and loose power. I live in TX and could possibly fall into those guidelines myself but there have been a few freak storms come in catch people off guard. That will be an expensive lesson.

straight 50wt but if you don't have any in there now you may need to replace the seal. The bad thing about the oil bath hubs is if the seal starts leaking all the oil can be gone in 50 miles. If the cavity is not completely full of oil then anytime you back the hot wheel into the cool lake, it sucks the lake water right in.

At least the picture you posted includes a woman in a bikini holding a Coors light. I would say that makes you worthy but you all don't drink enough beer, that set up would never work out with my friends. I actually have the 3 piece hatch but never keep coolers back there, to much of a hassle in my opinion and I can't imagine having an electric hatch. You can find a couple pictures here in my ballast install: http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/4288-2007-typhoon-ballast-install/ My boat has some aluminum angle that is welded to two flat pieces that bolt to the forward and aft area of the hull opening. Once you make some of those, then you would just put them in the area that you need considering how big you want each hatch. This supports the 3 hatches. I would make the engine hatch as narrow as you can and make the side ones as big as you can that way you can store a large cooler or item if you need to. You can also see the grey divider walls, these just set in aluminum channel at the bottom and up against the angle at the top and are held in place by little black keepers simular to what holds the front walk way window shut. The material used on my boat for the hatches is the same as the divider walls. It is some sort of plastic 1/2" thick. Just hinge the engine hatch in the back and the side hinges on the side. I would install some sort of latch on the center one because it opens into the wind and this would get ugly if it came open going down the highway but the side opening, side hatches don't need anything. I actually removed the side hatch latch mechanism on my boat.

1. Can't remember for sure which wires are which on the Mayfair but that sounds right. The ground wire can go to anything that is a good ground. You may have some extra spades on the ground portion of the fuse block which is really just a place to hook all the grounds together, basically one large ground wire going into a strip where you can connect many grounds. It really has nothing to do with the fuse block power portion, it is only in the same area for convinience. 2. sounds good 3. This doesn't sound good. What are you using to fill the sacs??? Is there a reason why you are not using a 3 position toggle switch. Center off, one way to fill and the other way to empty?? This can usually be done and I am curious as to why you wouldn't do this. 4. I think that once you start seeing the posts on the back of the switch as posts to control 2 completely different things then it may get more clear. Look at it like this 3 of the tabs are to operate the pump (2 pumps actually) if you are only using one Mayfair then then you would only use 2 of the tabs for the pump portion. Now the other portion is for the light only. You don't have to use both portions of the switch, you don't even have to hook the light up. 6&7 (if they are infact for the light, remember I assumed from the locations of the post) You would NOT use a jumper. To make the light work the bulb needs Power and ground. You would want to jump off of one of the existing switches power and ground that turns the light on when the ignition is turned on. This reminds me, the switch that I have only had one light bulb in it, I put the bulb in the location so that it lights up with all the other switches when you turn the key on but some switches have 2 bulbs. You can look at the existing switches to see which terminal the ground is hooked to, hook a ground to this terminal with all the other terminals empty and then take a power wire and touch each terminal, you will then find out which terminal turns on which bulb when it has power applied to it. Ground is not usually involved in the switching of devices except in the case of the reversing pumps that use a DPDT switch that actually changes the polarity of the wires. If your switch does have 2 bulbs, one is likely turned on when pwr is put to the light terminal and the other bulb likely is turned on when the switch is put in the on position. Hope this all makes sense.

Yes you can just run your remote wire off of the Stereo toggle switch. I also have the remote wire that runs to the tower speakers run through an additional stereo toggle which can stay in the on position at all times but gives you the ability to turn the tower speakers off. You really don't need a fuse on any wire but if it gets shorted out, it isn't going to pop a fuse but catch the wire on FIRE!! Obviously this would be less likely in a boat that is made out of fiberglass. In an automobile that is made of metal with the wire running through holes and against metal objects it is more important. The wire from the battery to the fuse holder is never protected but is usually in an area that isn't likely to get damaged.

My Jabsco sucks the water in through the thru-hull on the bottom of the boat and then just pumps it right back out the same hole. I didn't feel like having it pump water out of the side of the boat was needed. You can hear the pump change pitch when the sac is empty just as easy as you can hear the water quit coming out.

1. Yes you could do that and you would want to install a 10 amp fuse. You can get ground from anywhere, the switch only needs a ground for the light so keep that in mind. Unlike the reversable pump wiring where you have to run the ground for the pump through the switch. So try and not think about the ground at all. You could even find a grounding spot on the engine somewhere since the pumps are more than likely mounted back there. I don't know exactly what the terminals on that switch are for but usually the center post on the one side would be the PWR in. The terminal directly above it would be PWR to that pump when the switch is pushed up, PWR to the other pump would come off the tab below the center when pushed down and those should be the only 3 wires needed on the switch to get the pumps to work. The other 2 terminals are for the light PWR and Ground. Woops, just noticed your numbers 1-fill, 2pwr in, 3 empty, 7 light pwr, 6 light ground. This is just a guess from switches that I have wired, I have wired several and never had a diagram, just used a test light and ohm meter to figure out how the switch works and check the existing switches to find the most likely wiring for the light.

If your reset is like mine then you do NOT want to push the red button. Doing this trips it and a little black lever hangs down below, you have to push the little black lever back up to get it to reset. This happened to me once but I can't remember if it cranked and didn't fire or didn't crank at all.

I can't really see it making much difference on the outlet side of the check valve but what I am curious about is how much faster is the 17a over the tsunami. Its rated at over 3 times faster but is it really going through 1 1/8" hose.