Stereo Ignition bypass?

[phillewis 39]

Anyone found an easy way to bypass the ignition for the stereo power? I'm thinking I would just run the power to the stereo switch directly to the battery? Would love to find an easy way to not have the stereo shut off every time we turn off the ignition. This would be on my 2015 S226, but would apply to any boat really... Thanks!

[truekaotik 458]

Take the ignition side of switch and cut it and hook to constant 12volts.

[viking 491]

Look up under the dash and you will find 2 distribution blocks. 1 is powered by the main battery switch (when on) and the other is powered when the ignition is turned on.

If you follow the wires from the "stereo" toggle switch you will find that it is wired to the block powered by the ignition. Change that over to the other distro block.

This was one of the first things I did when I got my boat because I didn't want the tunes kicking on/off every time I shut the boat engine off and/or restarted.

[phillewis 39]

Look up under the dash and you will find 2 distribution blocks. 1 is powered by the main battery switch (when on) and the other is powered when the ignition is turned on.

If you follow the wires from the "stereo" toggle switch you will find that it is wired to the block powered by the ignition. Change that over to the other distro block.

This was one of the first things I did when I got my boat because I didn't want the tunes kicking on/off every time I shut the boat engine off and/or restarted.

Awesome, thanks! I figured it was something simple like that!

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

I would use a switched 12V source for the head-unit's red switched turn-on rather than a battery direct constant 12V source. If not unused ACC rocker are available, then install one. The head-unit's turn-on will not be in the IGN side of the boats key switch, but rather then ACC side of the switch.

[truekaotik 458]

I would use a switched 12V source for the head-unit's red switched turn-on rather than a battery direct constant 12V source. If not unused ACC rocker are available, then install one. The head-unit's turn-on will not be in the IGN side of the boats key switch, but rather then ACC side of the switch.

 

I think you mis read the post, it has a stereo switch already and is connected to the ignition block exactly like Viking said. He just needs to switch the input power to constant 12v. This way the radio can play while the key is off and the switch on. Edited March 28, 2016 by truekaotik

[2ndtimearound 7]

On my V226 the stereo switch is in a bank of switches and they are all daisy chained off the one lead from the switched block. After reading Vikings post I thought I'd just switch the lead to the hot block. Unfortunately, after I crawled under there and looked I only found the switched block and a daisy chain setup. I don't want all the switches hot because it's too easy for somebody to leave the lights or acc on by accident and drain the battery.

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

I think you mis read the post, it has a stereo switch already and is connected to the ignition block exactly like Viking said. He just needs to switch the input power to constant 12v. This way the radio can play while the key is off and the switch on.

so the switch is switched? Well, kind of odd. In that case, the input to the "stereo" rocker needs to be fed from a constant B+. Once thats on the boat side of the master battery switch rather then battery direct. If the boat's key switch has an ACC position that counter clockwise of OFF, then the stereo switch's current input is likely fed by the key switch's ACC output, instead of IGN.

[truekaotik 458]

On my V226 the stereo switch is in a bank of switches and they are all daisy chained off the one lead from the switched block. After reading Vikings post I thought I'd just switch the lead to the hot block. Unfortunately, after I crawled under there and looked I only found the switched block and a daisy chain setup. I don't want all the switches hot because it's too easy for somebody to leave the lights or acc on by accident and drain the battery.

 

Your on the right path, you will take the 12v ignition wire to the stereo switch ONLY and cut it. Extend the wire and take it to the constant hot buss under the dash or direct to the hot wire at ignition. This will not damage anything and the new boats are wired to the same post on the Perko.

[truekaotik 458]

so the switch is switched? Well, kind of odd. In that case, the input to the "stereo" rocker needs to be fed from a constant B+. Once thats on the boat side of the master battery switch rather then battery direct. If the boat's key switch has an ACC position that counter clockwise of OFF, then the stereo switch's current input is likely fed by the key switch's ACC output, instead of IGN.

 

Not really odd, they are not the only marine manufacturers who do a switch after the key, wether it be on the ignition side or Accessory side of the key.

[2ndtimearound 7]

Your on the right path, you will take the 12v ignition wire to the stereo switch ONLY and cut it. Extend the wire and take it to the constant hot buss under the dash or direct to the hot wire at ignition. This will not damage anything and the new boats are wired to the same post on the Perko.

I'll have to dig into it some more. The hot lead goes to the stereo switch first which is second over from the end. I'll have to do some jumping and hook the ignition switched hot lead to one of the other switches and jump to the daisy from there. I forgot about the hot side of the ignition switch. What I get for trying to sort it out with a head cold.

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

Oh, its odd all right, even if another boat builder does it, its odd.

 

 

 

I'll have to do some jumping and hook the ignition switched hot lead to one of the other switches and jump to the daisy from there.

I would be very cautious about what, if any, additional loads you draw off key switch B+, whether its before or after the switch. I would suggest drawing off a B+ BUSS with a fuses lead for anything like this.

[viking 491]

Now that you mention it 2ndtimearound i remember the entire rocker panel was powered by the ignition block. I thought it was stupid that the entire panel would only be hot if the ignition was on or in the acc position. Not just the stereo issues but filling ballast and nav lights and everything!

So I changed it so it was hot when the main battery switch is on. No worries about draining batt due to accidental draw because I always turn my master switch off when done for the day.

[2ndtimearound 7]

Now that you mention it 2ndtimearound i remember the entire rocker panel was powered by the ignition block. I thought it was stupid that the entire panel would only be hot if the ignition was on or in the acc position. Not just the stereo issues but filling ballast and nav lights and everything!

So I changed it so it was hot when the main battery switch is on. No worries about draining batt due to accidental draw because I always turn my master switch off when done for the day.

Now that I think about it my Malibu has all the switches hot without the key. I was trying to remember if I wired it that way or if it came like that. It's been a few years and I'm getting old and forgetful. Anyway, I don't think we ever had an issue leaving switches on. Why would you want the key on to run the anchor light, doesn't make sense.

[2ndtimearound 7]

I would be very cautious about what, if any, additional loads you draw off key switch B+, whether its before or after the switch. I would suggest drawing off a B+ BUSS with a fuses lead for anything like this.

Looks like it won't work anyway since there are very light leads going to the ignition switch and the switch only runs a relay. This boat is a little strange as the leads in and out of the relay are 18g or so- nothing substantial to be running all the options on that dash. I'll run a proper fused line from the battery to the stereo bank with proper gauge wire.

[truekaotik 458]

That will work also going Perko common direct, no need to go to the actual battery. Also, I should of said to ALWAYS fuse added leads, it's a given in my world but I have a fan so I have to make sure I type everything.. I also didn't realize you had a recent year boat where they finally downsized the ignition wires at the actual ignition. They are there just farther away from the ignition key. Remeber, it's to turn on a less than 10amp max item, 16gauge is fine also. You can go to the constant power buss under helm and yes fuse it as well. All wires under the helm/engine bay terminate at the same Perko post in the Supremes. Only do the switch though and not the whole panel, you only need the stereo off the switched ignition.

[phillewis 39]

I just crawled under there today and started looking around. It looks like the entire switch bank is indeed daisy-chained... I can see where the wires from the last switch go to the power post... I can also see another post that I assume is the constant power one? It seems like it would be much easier to just take the end of the daisy chain and switch that to the constant power post. I understand that would mean all of the switches in that bank would always be on (when the Perko is switched on) But, like Viking, I always turn my battery switch off after each outing, and I'm not too worried about leaving the switches on... is there any disadvantage in switching to the constant post?

[h20king 794]

No disadvantage that I know of. that's how I did it on my 14 and our new boat as well. It's a must do in my opinion if you want your courtesy lights and stereo to work with the key off. Worst case you forget to turn something off and you drain down the battery. Big deal you still have a fully charged second battery and a 100 amp alternator to bring the low battery back up

[truekaotik 458]

Only disadvantage if your not cautious is somehow a pump gets clicked on or off if on that panel.. Had it happen, don't ask how.. Didn't hurt anything though and was easy to figure out.. Lol

Just saying, other than that freak occurrence, I love no key needed...

Edited May 21, 2016 by truekaotik

[2ndtimearound 7]

I wired to the constant post back in March. After I remembered my Malibu had all the accessories powered without the key and we never had an issue, I wired the Supreme the same. It's nice to have the ballast pumps available without the key on also.