2002 Avy Stereo upgrade

[WakeDoc 471]

something i wish i had found earlier is here, exile all in one package. all speakers with amp combos. maybe your current amps will fit the speakers and just drop the amp out and save a little from the packages by not buyin a new amp. also some great speakers in thelast link, warehouse cleanout. just some suggestions.

 

You get what you pay for I would strongly suggest you listen to it before you buy it.

[truekaotik 458]

RHunt,

 

The reason I want to confirm exactly which sub you have is because there is no need to fill up page after page of theoretical amp suggestions and configurations based on uncertain gear specs. All that does is fill this thread with tons of text in which you and others have to sift through in order to pull out the relevant info.

 

When I search for that sub using the model umber provided, it comes back as a raw driver. What I mean by a raw driver is just the sub. What you have pictured in your opening post is a loaded sub enclosure. As a professional in the mobile audio sales and install biz, I see manufacturers label their loaded sub box in one of two ways. In the most common way I see, they will use the impedance at the terminal cap in the model number, as opposed to the actual coil impedance of the raw driver. From that, we can deduce whether its a 2 or 4 ohm dvc or s single 4, etc, but all that's important is what the amp will see when we wire it up. When we buy a raw driver, we can easily flip it over and read the label on the magnet. So if its not too inconvenient, lets confirm what the loaded sub box's impedance is at the terminal cap. Then we can lay out some realistic amp solutions and configurations.

 

In regards to the tower setup, thanks for confirming the towers have a binding post for each pod, let me dig up that crossfire amp and see how it compares spec wise to the kx350.4 so you can see which would be better to leave in place for the towers for now.

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

He started this thread for just that, theoretical configurations and equiptment, to choose which set up he wants. until we know what he chooses we have to go off the info provided and give suggestions from that. It seems it is 2 ohms at the connector which means its prolly the D4 version. All theories and suggestions are sound and valid at this point. Until he decides what equipment he wants from everyone's suggestions, I foresee alot of theories coming from the crew these threads are for conversation if I'm not mistaken?

[truekaotik 458]

Rhunt, it's apparent you don't want to mess with the sub, so check the terminal cap at the back of the box and see if it says 4 or 2. Or better yet check your paperwork you got with the purchase of the sub. It will prolly be easier than crawling in the boat...

Edited December 17, 2012 by truekaotik

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

RHunt,

 

If the terminal cap on the box is hard to reach due to how its mounted in the boat, here's what you can do. Pull the sub leads from the amp terminals and take your impedance reading right there. This will tell us exactly what we're working with.

 

I could not find any info on that Crossfire amp anywhere on the WWW, so I emailed my crossfire rep. Roger from crossfire got right back to me with the owners manual. Without getting into the RMS specs, I would suggest pulling the crossfire and placing the KX-350.4 in its place to power the 4 tower pods. The crossfire has hi-pass on two chnls, but only full-pass and low-pass for chnls 3 and 4. Those tower coaxials will prefer the hi-pass over full-pass and the amp will run a little more efficient.

[RhuntIII 555]

So I've been doing research on the sub and amps. We started with the sub that I posted in the beginning of the thread. The company I spoke with recommend a

JL Audio M700/5. He said that the 2ohm sub is very sensitive and should not be powered by bridging the amp. We went over several speaker types and he suggested going with JL Audio MX650-CCX-CG-WH. One thing that I questioned was the RMS on this speaker was only 60w. Should I try to find a speaker that would be 75w RMS? He suggested that I could however JL rates their speakers low and that these would work just find. Is this so? I do like the JL amp. What about these Wet Sounds SW-65 how would those work with this JL amp? I do like the LED ring that goes behind the WS speaker. Do other speakers offer this option and if so will the WS LED ring work on other brand speakers?

 

Head unit will be my next topic.

 

 

 

[RhuntIII 555]

I will not be discombobulating my sub or reinventing the wheel on this project!

 

[truekaotik 458]

No you don't want to bridge on a 2 ohm load and you don't want to mess with the sub... So go JL700.5 and go with Wetsounds interiors, both will wire te same so no worries.. . You won't be disappointed.... EQ is a must,so let's shave some money off the head unit ill get back to ya on a good head unit cheaper...

Edited December 18, 2012 by truekaotik

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

So I've been doing research on the sub and amps. We started with the sub that I posted in the beginning of the thread. The company I spoke with recommend a

JL Audio M700/5. He said that the 2ohm sub is very sensitive and should not be powered by bridging the amp. We went over several speaker types and he suggested going with JL Audio MX650-CCX-CG-WH. One thing that I questioned was the RMS on this speaker was only 60w. Should I try to find a speaker that would be 75w RMS? He suggested that I could however JL rates their speakers low and that these would work just find. Is this so? I do like the JL amp. What about these Wet Sounds SW-65 how would those work with this JL amp? I do like the LED ring that goes behind the WS speaker. Do other speakers offer this option and if so will the WS LED ring work on other brand speakers?

 

Head unit will be my next topic.

 

lets try to break this down into parts.

Subwoofers come in single coil and dual voice coil configurations and in different nominal impedance for the sake of making it easier to pair up with an amp's power output. This comes in really handy when running more then one sub on an amp. A DVC 2 ohm sub plays no different then DVC 4 ohm when all other aspects are the same. So the issue with bridging is not the sub's coil impedance or configuration, but the amp trying to drive a load thats an impedance that too low for it to run comfortably. A speaker itself will never know if its running bridged.

 

Set that all aside, IMO, the JL 700/M is a good choice as it will deliver good power to your 4 in-boats, allow for a 3rd pair down the road and deliver 180W rms to a 4 ohm sub or 300W rms to a 2 ohm sub.

 

A speakers RMS is basically a target wattage that we use to best match a speaker to an amp. The amp's RMS output is what the amp's continuous watts power output is as the given ohm. Its ok to power a speaker at an RMS thats a little below the speaker's RMS rating. Its also ok to power a speaker with an amp that's output is more then a speaker's stated RMS. You will be perfect powering a speaker with a 60W rms rating on an amp with an rms of 75W.

 

Amps do not know speaker brands and speaker brands do not know what amps are driving them. Dont sweat mixing amp and speaker manufacturers.

 

I do not know of any other manufacturers doing a ring for theirs. I do all mine custom by the job. If you have a local marine audio shop, ask them, they may have them. All thats needed is the grill OD, cutout DIA and what thickness. Some people like to frost the edge for a defused look, while others like to polish i for a different look.

 

Now, lets nail down that sub impedance and you will be able to finalize your amp choice.

[RhuntIII 555]

Head unit.

The head unit I found first and really liked was the Sony DSX-MS60. This unit has no CD player but a place where you can store an iPod internally. He said with the double amps that a 4-channel out put might not be the best. He recommended Kenwood KMR-700U for the 6-channel out put. I do not like the fact that the face plate is larger and might need more custom work to install. Are their any other manufacturers that offer something similar to these.

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

Head unit.

The head unit I found first and really liked was the Sony DSX-MS60. This unit has no CD player but a place where you can store an iPod internally. He said with the double amps that a 4-channel out put might not be the best. He recommended Kenwood KMR-700U for the 6-channel out put. I do not like the fact that the face plate is larger and might need more custom work to install. Are their any other manufacturers that offer something similar to these.

If you are going to be installing a peripheral device for tower/in-boat zone volume control, then the number of head-unit RCA outputs will be irrelevant. Most of these devices only require a single LF and RT input.

[RhuntIII 555]

I'm not to sure what a peripheral device is. Lets keep this some what simple. I'm not a professional. I just don't want the local installers drooling all over my boat. Plus I enjoy the research and installation.

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

A peripheral is just a piece of equipment added to a system to supplement or expand the base systems capabilities. In a commercial truck, it might be a NAV unit or data terminal interfaced with a GPS tracking unit. On a computer, it might be a mouse or key board, etc. In mobile audio, its an equalizer like the WS-420 or other zone volume controller, Ipod/MP3 interface, bluetooth receiver, SAT, etc. Most EQ's or volume controllers only require a single left and right chnl input and have 2 or more left and right chnl outputs.

[truekaotik 458]

I'm not to sure what a peripheral device is. Lets keep this some what simple. I'm not a professional. I just don't want the local installers drooling all over my boat. Plus I enjoy the research and installation.

Lmao isn't that right^^

Your first choice was fine, you only need one set of RCAs if you get the 420eq bro...

[Spud 7]

Omg another thread where you need a degree from UTI to understand. Rhunt, don't worry about rewiring the DVC conductor to get an 8 ohm ohm impedance on your cone cap. Bro, best buy card, 0% interest...they will have all the basic needs, Sony, Pioneer etc. Dump on a bidget and get a 420 to impress some fools and you'll be stoked. That's how I always rolled until I got jacked.

 

Peace out

[Spud 7]

 

Lmao isn't that right^^

Your first choice was fine, you only need one set of RCAs if you get the 420eq bro...

X2

[DavidEM 1]

something i wish i had found earlier is here, exile all in one package. all speakers with amp combos. maybe your current amps will fit the speakers and just drop the amp out and save a little from the packages by not buyin a new amp. also some great speakers in thelast link, warehouse cleanout. just some suggestions.

http://exileaudio.co...-package-2.html

http://exileaudio.co...-amplifier.html

http://exileaudio.co...s.html?limit=30

 

Hey, be careful of those misleading amplifier specs.

Exile once had a X800.4 that was a legit 800 total watts at 2-ohms power amplifier. It had 120 amps of fusing and twin power supplies.

Later Exile introduced the xi800.4 (the present model) with a single power supply and only half the fusing amperage. Now the amplifier actually tests at 440 watts total at 2-ohms. BUT, Exile still kept the "800" model designation. Odd, isn't it. Considering the old and inefficient Class AB, you would have to get that amplifier for half price and then I'm still not sure it would be competitive against countless other more powerful and more efficient options.

So really do your research before buying. Not all suppliers do business in the same way and the appearance of a good deal can be a deception.

 

David

[RhuntIII 555]

So this WS420 I can turn the volume off on the tower speakers and listen to only in boats. Correct?

Has any installed this WS420 and posted pics on the Triple C? I would like to see some installs.

[RhuntIII 555]

A peripheral is just a piece of equipment added to a system to supplement or expand the base systems capabilities. In a commercial truck, it might be a NAV unit or data terminal interfaced with a GPS tracking unit. On a computer, it might be a mouse or key board, etc. In mobile audio, its an equalizer like the WS-420 or other zone volume controller, Ipod/MP3 interface, bluetooth receiver, SAT, etc. Most EQ's or volume controllers only require a single left and right chnl input and have 2 or more left and right chnl outputs.

Oh and I was thinking it was some type of vision, like looking to the side when you not really looking to the side.

[truekaotik 458]

So this WS420 I can turn the volume off on the tower speakers and listen to only in boats. Correct?

Has any installed this WS420 and posted pics on the Triple C? I would like to see some installs.

Yes sir, you can turn the towers off or the inboats seperately...

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

So this WS420 I can turn the volume off on the tower speakers and listen to only in boats. Correct?

Has any installed this WS420 and posted pics on the Triple C? I would like to see some installs.

 

And vise verse. The unit has an inner and outer volume knob. outer controls the tower, inner controls the in-boat. Its not fade like a head-unit or traditional car stereo equalizer, but true independent volume control. In most cases, the head-unit volume is turned up to .75% and left. now the WS-420 becomes the volume control by using the two knobs as needed.

 

Sorry about the "peripheral" term causing some confusion.