Saltwater

[RhuntIII 555]

My first post. I'm in the market to buy a used boat and have been doing some research on running an inboard in saltwater. My questions to ya'll. A boat with out closed cooling, flushing the engine with a fake a lake or installing a flushing kit? I read some of this sites older issues on saltwater and it seemed that everyone committing on questions didn't run their boats in salt water. Who does and what do they do to clean and protect their boats? What about installing sacrificial anodes on a boat? I really like the Centurion boats and planning on buying a boat after the third quarter any help would be greatly appreciated.

[DrNate 426]

I used to run my last boat (a Moomba) occasionally in brackish water. I had a flush kit installed from the factory, which was nice. You just hook up the hose to it and run the engine to flush. Fake-a-lakes are external but essentially work the same. Some inboard boats are completely closed systems designed to be run in saltwater.

 

But having said all of that, I stopped running my boat in brackish water after a couple of years because, despite all of my best efforts, I noticed excessive rust on the trailer and many metal parts inside the boat (think seat rails, etc.). This made me wonder what it was doing inside the engine in the places that I couldn't see.

[superdtf 68]

X2^ That was my experience with our buddies Prostar that we ran on Mission Bay in San Diego one summer (years ago when I was single and attractive). We flushed and rinsed and purged every time, but the trailer rusted and there was significant corrosion on all metal parts. That boat was sixteen years old; I wouldn't do it with a newer boat unless it was only occasional.

[RhuntIII 555]

DrNate, Thanks for the reply the seat rails I would have never have thought of. For a painted trailer when it rusts out get an aluminum. What about the ballasts tanks and the pumps?

 

superdtf, How many years did your buddy get out of his Prostar sixteen? Corrosion on any of the metal under the boat (rudder, prop, and fins)?

[superdtf 68]

DrNate, Thanks for the reply the seat rails I would have never have thought of. For a painted trailer when it rusts out get an aluminum. What about the ballasts tanks and the pumps?

 

superdtf, How many years did your buddy get out of his Prostar sixteen? Corrosion on any of the metal under the boat (rudder, prop, and fins)?

 

Interestingly enough, we ended up restoring his Prostar 190 Stars & Stripes 1980 powerslot. After the summer of love in San Diego we replaced the windshield, the motor, the rudder, shaft, strut, and steering cable and helm. It's still running today and it's a classic IMO. So yes, there was significan corrosion on the stainless shaft, brass strut, brass rudder, etc. If I had any complaint about that boat (and I have to think hard about this), it's that there is too much spray in the slalom course at shortline with a headwind. That's it. It's a great slalom boat.

[DrNate 426]

Oh, yeah, I forgot. I also had a stainless steel prop on that boat and it was starting to rust. If anyone tells you that stainless steel doesn't rust, they're lying. Run a boat in saltwater and you'll see.

[harlobra 24]

Salt water is brutal on boats I grew up and lived in San Diego and had three boats there that we used on Mission Bay. The salt water eats through everything. I had galvanized trailers for two of them but not everything on the trailer is galvanized. It makes maintenance harder too because the bolts and screws all rust. I finally swore off the bay with my let boat and took it to a local reservoir only. Do a bunch more research before you pull the trigger on a boat you'll use in salt water.

 

[cyber104 0]

Boy - I'm starting to feel bad for you RhuntIII! So many discouraging words!

 

At any rate - most anyone would prefer to run their boat in fresh water but the reality of it is that sometimes salt is the only option. BUT - this doesn't have to end your boating aspirations!

 

Of the utmost importance is a closed cooling system for your engine. Once you have that in place you're half way there.

 

Secondly, make sure that you have the means to flush your engine with fresh water after every outing. "Fake a Lake" will work but I find that system cumbersome on my Elite LaPointe so I opted for the Perko flush system.

 

The next recommendation that I have is a painted trailer constructed with open 'C' channel - not box sections. This type of trailer does not trap water and can easily be hosed off with fresh water. Also, if any rust/corrosion issues start you can easily see and fix them.

 

The biggest thing you can do to fight saltwater issues is to flush the engine thoroughly and then rinse both the boat and trailer with fresh water when you're finished for the day.

 

Follow these steps and you'll be just fine!

Chris

[RhuntIII 555]

Thanks for the input cyber104. I will be looking into a engine flush kit. As far as washing the boat after every time in the saltwater I'm used to that having to clean my fishing/duck hunting rig. It's a salt life down here. Salt-Away looks like a good product to have on hand. But what about running the saltwater through the ballast tanks and cleaning? Does any one have a saltwater addition boat in here that could answer a few questions?

[cyber104 0]

Unfortunately I can't help you there as my boat is a Competition Ski Boat - no ballast tanks :-)

[RhuntIII 555]

Food for thought.

http://www.boatus.co...ch/casey/23.htm

Sacrificial Zincs

by Don Casey

 

Found this one today when I should have been working.

Edited September 26, 2011 by RhuntIII

[RhuntIII 555]

http://www.alchemyextrusions.com/zoom.asp?Link=images/reliance/overview/inboard2.jpg

 

Check out this site for types of sacrificial anodes and locations on inboard boats.

 

This could help all of us!

[cyber104 0]

I really wouldn't worry about using anodes unless you plan on leaving the boat in the water for extended periods of time

[RhuntIII 555]

Talked to the boys at Centurion about anodes and they recommend putting them on if running in brackish or salt water.

[RhuntIII 555]

Torn about the hull plates centurion sent me. They want me to bolt an anode to the fiberglass hull. What would this location protect?

 

Any time you have two different metals that are physically or electrically connected and immersed in seawater, they become a battery. Some amount of current flows between the two metals. The electrons that make up that current are supplied by one of the metals giving up bits of itself-in the form of metal ions-to the seawater. This is called galvanic corrosion and, left unchecked, it quickly destroys underwater metals.

 

Bonding is a different subject altogether, but boats with all underwater fittings bonded together electrically are typically fitted with one or more zinc plates bolted to the hull. The mounting bolts for these anodes are connected by heavy-gauge electrical cable to the bonding circuit. If these anodes are allowed to deplete or if the electrical connection deteriorates, other underwater metal, such as bronze through-hull fittings, will begin to corrode.

 

Like a number 6 wire to an engine bolt and then to the stud of the through bolt thats connects the anode to the under hull. Torn.

[RhuntIII 555]

Anodes

 

http://www.boatzincs.com

[DrNate 426]

Did I read that correctly that bronze will corrode in salt water?!?!? New one to me. Stupid question, but are bronze and brass the same thing? And I have no idea about the hull plates. It just doesn't seem to make sense to me

Edited February 6, 2012 by DrNate

[PayCheck 20]

bronze and brass are different, i dont know the actual difference much but i have heard that as long as you have stainless steel things they wont rust. of course this is impossible to have all stainless on your boat, but i have seen people take a sprayer and use it inside their boat to get rid the salt. just my little input

[RhuntIII 555]

all input is good even the little ones

[RhuntIII 555]

So what is the difference between brass and bronze? Anyone..Anyone?