Custom Ballast Size for Enzo 216/220 and Installation

[volzalum 280]

I thought I would post this since I removed the hard tanks today to start getting ready to install custom sacs as I complete the maintenance to get the boat ready for the summer.

 

Boat: 2007 Enzo 216 (same as 2008 and newer 220)

No Sideswipe

 

Particulars: Desired to be able to place custom sacs in boat with some room for expansion without having to worry about too much pressure on fiberglass or hitting protruding screws at both ends. Also, for height, I didn't want to move the courtesy lights in the rear lockers or put too much pressure on the vents or blower lines.

 

Specifics: Hydraulic pump for wake plate will be relocated to engine compartment, and fuel fill lines (and vents) will be changed out for ones that are 10 inches longer to clear the fiberglass.

 

Right and Left are mirror image (confirmed by measuring) but right side will have to have four screws that hold down cover under seat shortened so they don't protrude into top of bag.

 

This will leave ample room for fill and drain lines at back or rear locker.

 

Long side length: 93 inches

Short locker length: 51 inches

Finger length: 42 inches

Rear locker width: 23 inches

Finger width: 20 inches

Rear locker height: 20 inches

Finger height: 11 inches

 

Volume: 37,000 in^3 = 160 gallons = 1337 pounds when completely full.

 

I have not yet ordered the sacs, but plan to soon. I am going to continue with the re-plumbing. My original system has a single Jabsco 18220-2123 (ballast puppy in water puppy disguise). I plan to relocate my sprinkler valves to close to the height of the fill locations, add another Jabsco ballast puppy, and relocate all of aerator pumps to the engine compartment floor level. I will have two fill lines (1 each coming off a separate sprinkler valve each) for each side (four sprinkler valves each with removed springs). Two aerator pumps each for draining the sacs plumbed to the opposite side of the boat for discharge to minimize siphoning. I will also have two vent lines off the top of each sac plumbed to the opposite side of the boat to minimize siphoning but maximize prevention of pressurizing the sacs to the point of breaking something.

 

I am also considering putting a check valve in each of the four vent lines to prevent air from entering the sac when draining.

 

There will be two more connections on the top of the sacs. One will have the standard Tsunami pump connector and the other just capped off in case I need to use a manual pump to fill/drain becasue of some problem with the automatic system.

 

I plan to run 1 inch line off the through hull though the manual valve to each of the Jabsco pumps to a common header for all four sprinkler valves. Then I'll run 3/4 inch line fro the sprinkler valves to the sacs. I'll use 3/4 inch line for the drain and vent lines.

 

I am also considering adding a Tsunami to the header for the sprinkler valves protected by a check valve if my testing shows a significant benefit. The lawn guys claim that once the valves open, that the more pressure/flow you can supply through the valve that the pressure/flow loss percentage caused by the valve will decrease (i.e., one pump may see 14% loss while 2 may see 12% loss while three may see 10% or less loss.

 

As I get it installed I will take pictures of the process and post to this thread. I did not take pictures of teh removal of the hard tanks, but the hardest part is the old tanks do not drain completely so you will want to cap one end before you tilt them to remove or you will get wet.

 

Anyway, hopefully the measurements help other Enzo 216/220 owners. Feel free to comment if you have tried something I described that doesn't work.

 

-Dax

[h20king 794]

my locker measured the same but I went with the 750's which are 50" x20" x 20" and had them add a leg by ordering this way it kept the cost down $634 for both sacks with fittings and leaves room for the sacks to plump

[volzalum 280]

So I sketched out my plan and wiring one-lines. They are attached if anyone is interested.

 

Plumbing.pdf

 

FillWiring.pdf

 

EmptyWiring.pdf

 

Placement.pdf

 

Enjoy.

 

-Dax

[volzalum 280]

I decided since I am going to this much effort that I am going to get a custom box sac too. I want to maximize use of unused space in the bow but also maximize under seat storage up front. The measurements I came up with are as follows:

 

Triangle from peak too wide end (length) 32 inches. This is just short of my side cup holders so should't hit them.

56 inches wide on the wide side.

A 20 inch wide x 8 inch length square taken out of the center of the wide side. (This should just miss the center cup holders and clear the walkway)

12 inches tall

2 valves on the top narrow end near the point (1 vent and 1 tsunami quick connect)

2 valves on the outside bottom of the wide side of each of the "legs" (drain/fill)

 

I plan to use a dedicated jabsco ballast puppy to drain fill plumbed with check valves for water control. I will initially try to drain fill from just one side since the vent will also be check valved (port side of bag).

 

-Dax

[Bigshow 0]

What kind of pump is P2? Why are P1, P2, and P3 in parallel? I don't think that putting an aerator in parallel with a PD pump is going to be a great improvement. If you’re looking for faster pumping I'd test before committing to that configuration.

[volzalum 280]

P1 and P2 are Jabsco Ballast Puppies. I am planning to try the aerator pump as P3 before installing in the boat. My research on sprinkler valves says once they are open there is much less restriction, so I will see how it works. I am going in parallel because I want all pumps to go to all bags and because of the sprinkler valve efficiency change. Supposedly the SV will have less pump loss at higher pressure. A single pump may have 20% loss (i.e., to 11 gpm pump may pump 9 gpm) while two pumps in parallel may only have 15% loss (i.e., 2 11 gpm pumps may pump 19 gpm). I am hoping that with a 3rd pump pumping that I'll get even better performance (i.e. 2 11 gpm pumps and 1 12 gpm pump may pump 30 gpm). Of course the aerator pump will have to have a check valve to prevent flow from the two impeller pumps going the wrong way.

 

Also, the landscape guys say you get more flow out of a valve if the exit pipe is smaller than the inlet pipe ... the pressure helps keep the valve open. I will see. If testing doesn't make a benefit then I'll either add a 3rd Impeller style or stop at two pumps.

[Bigshow 0]

The attached is a little more stright forward. I get rid of the P3 pump and the extra vent outlets. Why were there two vents per side?

 

 

A little more pump flow here...

[h20king 794]

the land scape guy is wrong about the exit pipe size YOU DO NOT GET MORE FLOW by the exit pipe being smaller you increase velocity which many people confuse with a pressure increase but that is not what happens the speed the water travels is increased not flow or pressure.think of a garden hose you turn on the water with no nozzle you get so much water you put on a nozzle and it appears to increase pressure but it does not you still get the same amount of water it just exits faster

[volzalum 280]

Bigshow,

 

I considered what you drew first, but for me, I want to be able to flow with the maximum pressure on the valve inlet, which means pumps in parallel. Also, My outlets are already in the boat and since I will be flowing more water I want to ensure that I do not put undesirable pressure on solid objects ... therefore two vents to ensure that water will flow out of the bag instead of break the fiberglass. Also, I am going to vent to the opposite side of the boat to minimize how much water drains when the bag is full.

 

H20,

 

Yes and no. The 3/4 inch line can more than carry the flow that 3 pumps can flow. Therefore, the limiting factor will be the sprinkler valve. The greater pressure will reduce the loss percentage through the sprinkler valve, therefore flow more water. If I was running long runs on the hose, the pipe head would negate the benefit, but I will have short runs from the valves to the sacs. Therefore, I believe that for ~30 gpm available flow, for my configuration, 1 inch inlet to the valve with 3/4 exit from the valve should flow more gpm into the sac than 1 inch/1 inch.

 

-Dax

[Bigshow 0]

Is your inlet valve a manual ball valve or an electric valve?

[volzalum 280]

the through hull is a manual ball valve. the only electric valves are the sprinkler valves to control flow direction.

[volzalum 280]

Well, I have finally settled on the ballast layout/operation that I am going to install in my boat. I was only going to install rear locker sacs and a hidden bow sac. A friend gave me two sacs that will fit in the front lockers so I am going to install them too. I don't plan to use them often because it will mean removing my life jackets and putting them somewhere else but I am going to plumb them in the system. Attached are the plumbing and electrical 1-lines that I am going to use.

 

Of note:

 

I will utilize 3 Jabsco Ballast Puppy fill pumps feeding a 1 inch manifold with five sprinkler valves (4 irritrol 700 and 1 orbit with spring removed. I will have 1 inch line from through hull into each sac. I will use 6 mayfair aerator pumps (4 1000 gph and 2 750 gph) to drain all but the bow sac which will use the fill line and one Jabsco reversed. Drain line and vent line will be 3/4 inch hose. There will be 12 3/4 inch outlets including the bilge pump.

 

Each rear sac (~1400 lbs each) will be fed off of one irritrol valve (1 port/1 starboard) Y'd into two inputs on each bag. There will be one vent line going to the opposite side of the boat per bag with a check valve near the outlet to prevent air from entering the sac when draining. There will be one mayfair 1000 and one mayfair 750 draining each sac dumping to the opposite side of the boat.

 

Each front locker (center) sac (~250 lbs each) will be fed off of one irritrol valve (1 port/1 starboard) into one input on each bag. There will be one vent line on each sac with a check valve near the outlet to prevent air from entering the sac when draining. There will be one mayfair 1000 draining each sac.

 

The bow sac (~250 lbs) will be fed off of one orbit valve into one input on the bag (port inner fitting). There will be 1 vent line. One of the 3 Jabsco fill pumps will be reversed to drain the bag through the fill line and out the vent line (shared near through hull). This "loop" requires 5 check valves to work (2 in the 1 inch fill line and 3 in the 3/4 inch drain/vent lines).

 

There will be a diode in series with each of the fill switches to a relay to operate the pump to prevent each switch from opening more than one valve (prevent bleed-back to the switches). I found some weatherproof crimp on diodes used in the solar industry. Each fill pump will be controlled through a relay so a single fill switch will operate all three pumps. The double drain pumps on the rear sacs will be controlled by a single relay per side to protect the switch loading. A "kill" relay will be placed in series with the 3rd fill pump so that when it is used to drain the bow sac, the other 2 pumps can still be in fill mode.

 

I'll post performance once it is fully installed and tested.

 

Plumbing.pdf Electrical.pdf

[volzalum 280]

Well I am getting closer to actually installing the ballast. I got the sides put back in. I had to notch the forward sides to accommodate the longer fuel fill/vent hoses on each side.

 

I also moved my wind dam storage to the other side.