New Tower Speaker Option

[Shaka 146]

The Rev-10 does have a tweeter protection build into the corss-over, but it should return to operation when the volume is reduced. If not, you need to start ohm'ing individual components. Amp and head-unit setting is often the leading cause.

The aren't coming back on. So you're saying a component on the crossover blew when it protected?

 

Or are you saying speakers will not come back on due to incorrect ohms coming into them?

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

The aren't coming back on. So you're saying a component on the crossover blew when it protected?

 

Or are you saying speakers will not come back on due to incorrect ohms coming into them?

There is a protection circuit inline of the tweeter (the compression driver), that will cut it off ti protect it from blowing. This will reset in a few seconds once the music is turned down. If your tweeters are not playing anymore, then there is an issue with the compression driver or the cross-over. The protection circuit does not stay on nor is there a reset. its like a rev limiter on a race car, only activated when you hit, back off and the engine runs fine.

 

Out side of the amp's cross-over filters somehow getting moved to low-pass, you need to test the impedance of the pod. Next, you will need to disassemble the pod and test the compression tweeter alone. This will point you to the tweeter or the x-over.

 

Now, since both both compression drivers are out, check the head-unit's setting as well. If you have a spare full-range coaxial laying around, wire it up to the amp and see if its tweeter plays normal. Just to be sure something in the amp is not gone.

[Shaka 146]

Hey thanks for the help guys., It turns out that I accidentally flipped a switch from HPF to LPF on the amp when I put the cover back on. I ended up removing the rear in-boats from Channel B and bridging the amp. It turns out that the amp (Premier PRS D400f) will do 300 watts per channel at 4 ohms so I do not need a new amp to power the REV 10's. However, I do need a new 4 channel amp for my in-boats. Anyone have a reasonably priced suggestion?

 

I'm going to run new wires but use the existing holes. What jack should I mount in the back of the speakers? The cutout looks about the size of a typical connector. What would you guys suggest to get the speaker and light wires into the hole?

[Wylie_Tunes 146]

 

 

What jack should I mount in the back of the speakers? The cutout looks about the size of a typical connector. What would you guys suggest to get the speaker and light wires into the hole

The Wet Sounds ADP-Retro Kit would allow for the speaker leads a pair of leads for single color LED rings. For RGB, and even your application, I would suggest unit the thru-clamp wire option of the TC3. If you have the swivel clamps, you will need the ADP-TC3-6PIN when adding LEDs. No additional hardware needed with the fixed clamps.

 

 

 

 

However, I do need a new 4 channel amp for my in-boats. Anyone have a reasonably priced suggestion?

If you've only got 2 pair, then I suggest the Kicker KXM400.2. Will deliver 100W rms to each in-boat.

[truekaotik 458]

Solid amp choice for the price.. Next bump up is a Wetsounds HT4 @110 watts a speaker with ample headroom for $100 more....

[chenige 84]

You guys are up nice and early for a Sunday. Are you both eastern time?

Edited July 26, 2015 by chenige

[truekaotik 458]

Yup it's 830am here

[Shaka 146]

Thanks guys.

 

I'll order the wiring kit tomorrow.

[Shaka 146]

In for a penny in for a pound. Just ordered a pair of Wet Sounds XS-650-S.