Help with prop shaft removal (v-drive)

[3cents 1]

Is there a write up on v- drive prop shaft removal?

I have a '02 elite v

I just picked it up

It has a bad vibration on acceleration. So bad that I didn't even get it up to cruising speed.

I sent the prop out the get fixed and I'd like to get the shaft inspected while I'm waiting to get the prop back. I'm assuming you loosen the jam nuts and there will be a spline joint. Is this correct. And how the heck do you get a set of wrenches down there? And what size are the jam nuts?

Thanks in advance for any input on the subject.

[superdtf 68]

Remove the four 9/16's coupler bolts and then remove the tranny. From there, you'll be staring at a huge retainer nut. You'll need an impact wrench for that one. Then press the shaft out using some handy steel and bolts through two of the four coupler holes.

 

This is not for the faint of heart. Ping me if you're still interested.

[3cents 1]

Ok, thanks for the reply. I was under the impression that I could remove the shaft without pulling the tranny. In that case maybe I'll just wait till I get the prop back from the shop and see if the vibration is still there... Prop is supposed to be ready for pick up on Friday. I'll post updates.

[Kevin Baugh 78]

what does the strut look like? IS it straight??

[superdtf 68]

Ok, thanks for the reply. I was under the impression that I could remove the shaft without pulling the tranny. In that case maybe I'll just wait till I get the prop back from the shop and see if the vibration is still there... Prop is supposed to be ready for pick up on Friday. I'll post updates.

Dammit, sorry, I meant V-DRIVE. And yes it is possible to pull it without removing the v-drive, but removing the v-drive is actually much easier that trying to get that ginormous nut off while you're blind from behind the v-drive without an impact wrench. My buddy is a Centurion tech at our local dealer; he pulls the v-drive.

 

Also, Kevin's point is sage, check your strut and when you put it all back together, align it. In fact, hell, now that I've mentioned it, just remove your four coupler bolts and try to align your shaft. If you it's bent you won't be able to. And shaft aligning is another task that isn't for the faint of heart (but at least you don't have to pull the shaft).

[3cents 1]

I can turn the shaft by hand with no prop. Is that a good sign? I measured the shaft with a dial indicator. In three spots outside the boat. At the hull, a few inches before the strut, and just after the strut. At the worst it's .0025 out. And that could be from me pulling it. Is that a problem? There is a tiny bit of play in the strut bushings. Maybe .003 of play looks the upper set screw is missing on the strut bushing as well. I don't know how to align the strut. It looks straight. But I don't know if that means it is strait. I would like to align the strut and possibly replace the bushings. If one of you could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.

[Kevin Baugh 78]

Sounds like you have worn out bushings

and you align the engine to the shaft like sup says not for the faint of heart

especially in a V drive

[superdtf 68]

Kevin's right, strut bushings. They should be so snug that without some soapy water, it's practically impossible to turn the shaft WITH the propeller on. I personally have seen bent struts, but not ever so subtle that I couldn't see it.

 

As for your runout measurements, I'm not sure how you would measure that while it's in the boat.

 

Certainly replace the strut bushings. You want the brass ones: http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1119

 

Put the prop back on. If it's smooth, keep on trucking. If not, try to align it. If you can align it down to .005" or better and it's still shaky, then it's the prop (sometimes the hub will get wobbly on a good strike, so even "repaired" props will shake). If you can't align it, it's either the strut or the shaft.

If you'd like to read my barely intelligible treatise on alignment (and other related issues): http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/6328-pss-shaft-seal

[3cents 1]

I used a dial indicator with the magnetic mount stuck to the crossmember of the trailer.

 

I followed the link to the bushings, it was not clear to me which ones are for my boat?

 

Can I simple undo the bolts on the strut and slide it off the shaft and replace the bushings?

 

I appreciate your guys patience. I've done some more reading on alignment. Sounds like something I'm willing to tackle if prop and bushings doesn't fix my vibration issue.

 

A friend has a 02 elite v as well, he gave me his prop to test. It's a oj 13 14. So between that and mine which I expect back on Friday I should be able to rule out the prop being the soure of the problem. my prop is a acme231 13x12.5

 

Any tips on removal/install of the bushings.

 

Thanks for all the feedback!

[superdtf 68]

3, that sounds good. I don't think your shaft is bent.

 

You should be able to measure the ID of your strut (sorry, I don't have that one in my head). My shaft is1-1/8", but I don't know the ID of the strut. I'm assuming your shaft is the same size as mine, but earlier models were 1", so you should check. Finding out the diameter of your shaft and the inside diameter (ID) of your strut should be a piece of cake (possibly two pieces of cake).

 

As for removal of the bushings:

• remove the shaft
• find something that's the right diameter to serve as a punch to push them out of the strut.
• remove the set screws
• use a torch to heat up the strut
• pound them out
• curse
• drink a beer
• drink more beers
• curse again

[3cents 1]

Now that a quality step by step guide! Lol Thanks super!

 

Well, I think I'll put my buddy's prop on an go for a test drive after work tomorrow, if it still shakes Ill do the bushings. Thanks again! I'm calling it a night.

 

Ps I love cake

[3cents 1]

prop was the problem. took the boat out today with a friends prop. all is well. no more "bad vibrations"

Thanks everyone for your input.

 

other info.... I have a squeak. I thought it was the tensioner pulley. so I took it off, and the other pulley off, pulled the dust covers, greased them and put them back on. I tensioner pulley is the manually adjustable one. I dropped the adjusting bolt into the bilge. found a coffee cup lid, bolts for the side panels, a 3'' long 9/16 bolt and nut, a 9/16 wrench, all before I found the adjusting bolt. Then i discovered the side engine mounts were loose!!!! port side was finger tight! my little birdy was telling me to do an alignment before taking it for another burn but I went anyway and she ran smooth. except the squeak was still there. I guess its either the belt, water pump or alternator.

[superdtf 68]

Awesome news!

 

Your squeak is a "combo move" (think of your favorite video game ;-) ) There are couple of things working together, and your pulleys and belt will "wear in" a harmonic that'll totally piss you off. You can check it by running some bar soap inside the ribs of your belt while your motor is running. If the noise subsides briefly you'll want to replace belt, idler, and tensioner. You'll LOVE these threads:

 

http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/6885-mercruiser-black-scorpion-pulleys/?hl=dayco

 

http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/7339-serpentine-belt/?hl=dayco#entry87200

 

...oh, and when in doubt, align your engine to the shaft. Sorry, I know it's a PITA.