falcon v custom ballast install

[duffymahoney 10]

I have 3/4 hoses through my whole system. I have 2- 1000 gph fill pumps per avy sac (1500#) and 2- 1000 gph empty pumps per sac. It fills and drains in 8-9 mintures. My Avy is older, so the original system doesn't have sprinkler valves and uses aerator pumps. The stock pickup location sucks, it's on the bottom of the transom and I can't be moving to fill. My whole ballast upgrade only cost me like 150$ and took me like 3 hours to install. Works like a champ. I would love to get it down to say 6-7 minutes, but it isn't that important.

[JasonWM 0]

Yep, I saw that, I was replying to duffy's question about holding water in an Enzo bag.

[smitty1258 0]

Im just not sure your getting that much more weight over stock + 750's in the locker. If the stock is 250 thats 1000lb per side, if the stock is 220 then your only shy 30 lbs per side. It will be nice to see what your wake looks like though. Currently I have 2 750's and the stock'ers which they claim to be 250lbs, which means I should be at 2000#

 

I will be posting a thread pretty soon on re- plumbing and adding pumps for that system though

[h20king 794]

here is how it works the stock tanks measure 17"wide x22"long x10" high to find weight of the tank multiply those together=3740 then divide by 231 =16.190then multiply by 8.33 =134.866lbs that is the weight of your stock tank as for the 750's do the same math you only get 721lbs for a total of 1712lbs so if you do the math for the new sac's you only get 880lbs per side for a total of1760 but if you round like fly high and boat builders you have 2000lbs .they say the sacs expand and hold more than a hard tank maybee??

[h20king 794]

just an update all hoses are ran bag's have been test fitted. i had to trim the rear locker board for the fill line to make the trip

[h20king 794]

pics of the bag inflated in the boat

[h20king 794]

a couple pics of the pumps notice impellers can be serviced without pulling the pumps i have a ton of wireing left to do and still have to tidy up will post next time with the finished product but you should get the idea

[h20king 794]

top view allmost done

[h20king 794]

INSTALL IS DONE.... the pumps are wired all hoses ran bags test fit and is ready to go.I modified the factory switches by replacing the guts with the switches that came with the pump's so everything looks stock. there was tons of wiring it took all week but it is done finished over you get the point.here are a couple pics of install in progress and the finished control panel.I have used every receptacle on the boat there is no room to add more switches.also a pic of locker with bag removed and a pic of where the sprinkler valves use to live I think it looks very sanitary what do you think??[atta

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[h20king 794]

a couple more pics I still have to vacuum but you get the idea

[h20king 794]

sorry I forgot pics of the heart of the system here they are

[Oldwakedude 0]

Love to see a schematic of your plumbing and electrical arrangement.

[h20king 794]

old wake dude the plumbing is fairly simple and I used your idea and vented sacks to the opposite sides of the boat.Both pumps are fed by the single 1" factory thru hull. each feed has a 1" check valve installed after the manifold with a 1" tee with a 3/4 port on top which is ran to the overboard so when pump is reversed water is pumped over the side.each vent line also has a check valve so bags raisin when empty.The wires to the pumps were already there I ran them to a 12v 20a resettable breaker than to the switch..Also both fill and vent are one inch but vent reduces to 3/4 so factory over boards could be reused.Hope all this makes sense if not let me know and I will draw up a schematic

[Oldwakedude 0]

old wake dude the plumbing is fairly simple and I used your idea and vented sacks to the opposite sides of the boat.Both pumps are fed by the single 1" factory thru hull. each feed has a 1" check valve installed after the manifold with a 1" tee with a 3/4 port on top which is ran to the overboard so when pump is reversed water is pumped over the side.each vent line also has a check valve so bags raisin when empty.The wires to the pumps were already there I ran them to a 12v 20a resettable breaker than to the switch..Also both fill and vent are one inch but vent reduces to 3/4 so factory over boards could be reused.Hope all this makes sense if not let me know and I will draw up a schematic

 

Ok, I think have it correct, see my schematic . If I got it right then here are is some food for thought

 

May want to consider check valves in the drain overboard lines (shown in red) otherwise you may suck air when filling .

 

May want to consider a backup crossover connection (shown in orange). In the event one pump fails you can still fill/drain with the opposite pump . Also you can use two pumps on one sac when surfing (cut the fill/drain time in half) .

 

I note that you are using a resettable breaker rather than just a fuse . I think this is worth highlighting for others, if using a reversible jabsco pump the resettable breaker is a must.

 

Really looks like a nice job and good thread

H2O_Ballast_Schematic.pdf

[h20king 794]

Yep you got the idea.I did not put a crossover so system is full auto meaning you can fill both at the same time or empty one while filling the other.Also pumps are serviceable in boat I will just cary a spare impeller just in case.My thought on the vent line was water seeks it's own level and the pumps only pump 10 gpm and there is thirty gpm available to each pump 60 gallons if only running one pump that a check valve was not needed on the vent.I could be wrong in my thinking and will let you know as I will be getting her wet within the next two weeks to do on water system checks weather permitting

[Oldwakedude 0]

Yep you got the idea.I did not put a crossover so system is full auto meaning you can fill both at the same time or empty one while filling the other.Also pumps are serviceable in boat I will just cary a spare impeller just in case.My thought on the vent line was water seeks it's own level and the pumps only pump 10 gpm and there is thirty gpm available to each pump 60 gallons if only running one pump that a check valve was not needed on the vent.I could be wrong in my thinking and will let you know as I will be getting her wet within the next two weeks to do on water system checks weather permitting

 

 

Looks like from the mounting level of the pumps in the boat, boat draft in the light condition and the head losses through the intake hose and the check valve, it will put you at a negative net positive suction head at the pump inlet, which will result in sucking air. This will be compounded if you run two pumps at the same time on the single suction. Take a couple of corks with you.

 

The valves in the crossover setup allow for operation as you have designed or alternate modes as noted. Just some added flexibility .

 

One other thing I have found useful and has saved me some aggravation a few times . Fly high sacs come with the quick disconnect fitting (W730), which the Pro X Tsunami Ballast Pump fits. I have one such fitting in each sac so that if I have a pump problem I can still fill/drain the sack , or I can use it as a second pump to fill/drain faster. I highly recommend the tsunami pump as a backup.

 

You have a really nice setup , it is obvious that perfection is your goal , you will definitely have one of the best set-up boats around when you are done

Edited February 27, 2010 by Oldwakedude

[h20king 794]

Well I have decided to not take any chances so I ordered the two check valves for the pump out lines. whats another twenty bucks so please add them to the schematic for others to follow if they chose.Thanks for the tsunami pump as a back up great idea I will do that as well.You have some great ideas thanks for the input your running vent lines to the opposite side of the boat idea worked out great and looks real clean

[SurfNewMexico 0]

old and h.... guys.. i have read and read... i think i have a good idea of what i'm going to do when my 2 sacs show up... i have 07' avy w 3 stock ballasts... ordered 2 750's w extra top hole for the tsunami option... a friend of mine is helping with install.. he's mechanic and owns a tige... i cannot do the work... helper barely... i think we're going to just install the sac's extend lines already in place and see how long it takes to fill and dump... question #1: tell me about crossover ?? i have read this before, but i dont understand... question #2: if im not happy with the time to fill, and i want to go faster, tell me about adding the extra 2 mayfields, if i have it right, one for filling and one for draining?? not doing anything w middle ballast?? or should i?? i appreciate ya'lls input.. i know h likes the rev pumps but a little too much for my friend i'm afraid..

tks kt

[duffymahoney 10]

You will need to install either a spring loaded 1 way valve on the exit pump and the vent line or a manual valve. This will stop the sac from loosing water while moving. The install is easy. Good luck, and make sure to ask if you have an questions.

[h20king 794]

no need sacks have a high point vent and are ran to opposite side of the boat with a loop in the hose.also impeller style pumps will hold back the water in the sack where as a cartridge style will not

Edited February 27, 2010 by h20king