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jiriki

Strut angle on SV230 2006

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jiriki    13

I broke the strut on my boat a while ago and I need to buy a new one.  The model number "appears" to be STSL 18.  That last digit is hard to make out.  Just wanted to confirm it's STSL 18 and not STSL16.

Does anyone know?  I assume the digits refer to the angle of the shaft.

 

 

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InfinitySurf    302

Looks like STSL 16 to me (I think if it was an 8, it would be rounder.

You may have more...and much faster responses for a technical question like this on the Centurion/Supreme FB page. Lot of activity over there

Edited by InfinitySurf
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volzalum    280

If you have room in the engine mounts (the rear would need to go down and the front would need to go up), you might want to consider the 18 strut rather than considering the prop bubble. Though you have the Walters V-Drive in a 2006, so I believe it also mounts separately unlinked the newer PCM options so you would have to see how it is noted to ensure you get the correct engine to v-drive to prop shaft strut alignment. The prop bubble would require you to pull the engine and cut a hole in the floor and have a stainless steel bubble made to glue/bolt into the floor.

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jiriki    13
17 hours ago, volzalum said:

If you have room in the engine mounts (the rear would need to go down and the front would need to go up), you might want to consider the 18 strut rather than considering the prop bubble. Though you have the Walters V-Drive in a 2006, so I believe it also mounts separately unlinked the newer PCM options so you would have to see how it is noted to ensure you get the correct engine to v-drive to prop shaft strut alignment. The prop bubble would require you to pull the engine and cut a hole in the floor and have a stainless steel bubble made to glue/bolt into the floor.

Where would one find a stainless steel bubble?

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volzalum    280

You would have to draw it up and have a machine shop make it for you. Probably out of ⅛ inch or 3/16 inch 304 Stainless Steel. Conversely you could have a fiberglass repair shop make a fiberglass bubble and run the layers and repair to make the fiberglass the same thickness/strength as your existing hull. 

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