Elite c4 surf and value?

[wesblake 8]

Not sure, that link seems to jump me to some place called praymedia and wants a cc.

It's a 2006 Centurion Avalanche with the Black Scorpion motor. Same as my fathers motor but we left the part tag at their cabin!

[InfinitySurf 302]

7 hours ago, wesblake said:

Not sure, that link seems to jump me to some place called praymedia and wants a cc.

It's a 2006 Centurion Avalanche with the Black Scorpion motor. Same as my fathers motor but we left the part tag at their cabin!

Sorry man, I have not owned that engine. I do understand that they make a 5.7 and a 6.2. Assume you have the 5.7 and its supposed to be a great engine. The thread below may interest you.....be sure if impeller is torn up that you get the pieces removed.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/27349-sanger-boats-and-mercruiser-black-scorpion-engines-any-good/

May want to check this conversation out if the impeller is missing pieces....tells you where to look for them.

https://www.justanswer.com/boat/3yky3-2005-5-7-black-scorpion-just-lunched-cooling.html

Is this what your water pump looks like? Here is a diagram....which has a part number for impeller if it is. (model # range is listed above diagram)

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercruiser/350 Black Scorpion Mag MPI - (350CID 5.7L V8)/0M391600 THRU 0W689999/Sea Water Pump Assembly/parts.html

Good luck, sorry I don't know more

 

[wesblake 8]

Yes, that's it! Thanks. 5.7 BTW. I went to take it off just now though and first pulled some blue plugs and then some hoses. Water came out of all, so maybe not the pump. Then I noticed the belt was only half on the crank and alternator pulleys! So maybe it was just slipping? I am going to order my own flusher and try again with the belt fixed.

[InfinitySurf 302]

I would still check that impeller. You dont know the last time it was changed and that can ruin your weekend and engine really quite if it disinegrates. $40 and an hour of your time....use dawn dish soap when you put new one in, changed mine the other day and it slid in easy as pie that way. I had trouble installing new belt and another member told me that sometimes its easier to slide the belt over one of the smooth pulleys last, than the lip of the tensioner (which probably takes 2 people).

Anyway, hopefully it was just the belt, but I would still check everything carefully while you have time since full on summer is not hear yet. You wont wanna do maintainance on July 4th weekend

[wesblake 8]

Thanks. I will still change the impeller but need to solve the issue.

I've adjusted the belt and bought my own fake-a-lake. Checked some blue plugs and water came out. Hooked it up just now for a test, water's pumping out of the exhaust as expected. However, I still hit 175 and shut it down. It's my understanding it's supposed to be a 160 degree thermostat.

With water pumping, you think it's thermostat? Is the fake-a-lake just not a good test for this particular issue with the lower water flow?

[InfinitySurf 302]

Some wells do not provide enough water, but running my boat at home has zero issues. Yes, its possible that thermostat is sticking, you could take it out and check it....It should be a 160 degree thermostat, but someone could have put in a different one too. Does it get hotter than 175, or stay at 175? Or maybe you are shutting down at that point and not risking it getting hotter....it it hits 180+ you know you have an issue. Just cause water is moving thru the system does not mean the impeller is good, it could be bad and not circulating the water fast enough, vanes could have hardened up from being in there too long.

Manual will tell you all the things to check if boat is overheating, I dont remember all of them off top of head

[RhuntIII 555]

On my 350 MPI I had over heating issue and found seagrass in my trans. intercooler. This is a notorious place to catch lake yuk and impeller pieces. Maybe yours is the same.

[wesblake 8]

Ok thanks guys. I hate the impeller job on this (done it a few times on my parents boat), they put it in a crappy spot. Guess I'll start pulling hoses and pumps though and inspect everything! I was hoping the belt was all so I could move on for the season. Maybe there's a pump relocation/electric for this thing...

[MobEnzo 51]

The T-valve mentioned in this thread is a nice mod to run on the hose instead of the fake-a-lake.  It also makes winterizing a lot easier.

[wesblake 8]

Well I tore the whole cooling system apart. There was water everywhere, thermostat moves, impeller looks great. I think maybe it was just a combination of the fakealake and myself being cautious and shutting it down too early. Going to replace both the thermostat and the impeller anyways and keep the current impeller as a emergency backup.

I'll have a look at that t valve mod too.

Different issue I can't find anything on, maybe you all can help me with. When I first start it up I have to have it in neutral and start it at a higher RPM or it will not stay running. Once it warms up, not long, maybe 20 to 30 seconds, it runs and idles just fine. It's as if there's a choke system not functioning properly. I've never had this issue with the same engine on my parents boat, starts right up and Idols even after coming out of winterization.

[RhuntIII 555]

If the Black Scorpion has an Idle Air Control valve like the MagMPI check that. IAC valve, if stuck in the closed position will keep the engine for idling but will run in fast idle. It could be beginning to fail. What about this belt issue? You stated earlier that the belt was half off, did you get this worked out/fixed? 

[wesblake 8]

New question everyone, thanks for all the help with the new ride! Almost ready to hit the water this year.

Something that's always confused me because the book (parents anyways) doesn't show it. I need to do a transmission (v-drive) fluid change. I believe the transmission is the pinkish dipstick that you turn to release the rubber plug, first item after motor. So what's the last item? Behind that is the box where the fresh water first runs through, it also has a dipstick in it that just pulls right out, very short, top right side. In the pic I'm attaching, you can see half of this knurled "dip stick" in the upper right in the "box"

 

[wesblake 8]

BTW, clearly says "Velvet Drive" on the first component with the pinkish dip stick and pinkish fluid. This "box" in question's dipstick says "Walter" on it and the fluid on this stick looks more like oil, very clear with no pink tint.

[MobEnzo 51]

The pink dipstick is transmission. The other is the v drive.

The transmission fluid is pretty easy to change. I do it most years with winterization. The v drive I haven’t changed, there’s a post in diy section on how to do it. I was going to do it, but looks like a huge PITA. I’ve read to not change it unless it’s milky which means it got water in it. Also may depend on how many hours you’re putting on.