MobEnzo

Ended up replacing starting battery and all good now.

I don't know about draining the fuel. Maybe a siphon to get the bulk of it out? Otherwise I wonder if you can put something like stabil in to treat the old gas and also top off with fresh gas. Other item I would do for prep is change the impeller. Not sure what kind of shape it would be in after sitting and cheap insurance to just change.

Resurrecting an old thread... If the ACR is flipping on with no charger connected, does that indicate one of my batteries has gone or is going bad? This started happening last year... My starter battery is old, but does still work. ACR kicked to combine shortly after connecting both batteries tonight. Turned on stereo and it closed. Then I connected smart charger (finally bought two years later) and ACR combine tripped again. My assumption is that starter battery is giving lower voltage than house battery. Would that trip ACR to combine? If so, I assume new starter battery would fix that? Thanks for the help! ..

Looks like bulletlines.com has what you’re looking for. Their krypt brand I think is considered more “budget” racks. I have them on Evolution tower and work for me.

I went with the bulletlines/krypt racks. They are just bungee strap style of rack. Nothing fancy... The swivel is ok, it’s a little tough to move, but I haven’t played with them much to see if I could fix that. Like I said in my previous post there are nicer racks out there, but they are spendy. Below is a link to what I bought a few years ago. You’ll see an option for centurion gladiator mount as well option if you want swivel or not. https://www.bulletlines.com/double-wakesurf-tower-rack-p/1003.htm Install is easy, it’s all Allen bolts. I have the evolution tower which is different, but concept is the same. Your tower has mounting holes for the bolts to thread into. The quick release option I sent above just has a knob bolt so you can take the rack off of the mount easily for trailering and whatnot. I’ve always taken off and stored in the boat. Whatever brand you go with should have the same options when pricing out. Hope that helps!

I went with swivel. I like being able to get them out of the way if docking and they make loading/unloading with boards easier.

Welcome to the site and nice boat! Your tower is the gladiator tower. Who knows what the previous owner may have had with racks. You could check with them? As for racks, I think Samson, Roswell, and Skylon are probably the more well known brands. I bought some Bulletlines racks a few years ago. They’re a little cheaper than the others. I don’t use them a ton, but they’re fine.

My buddy bought one last summer in MN, pretty decked out, and more hours for mid 50s. Obviously trade in would be different. Could see what dealer would sell for on consignment?

Mine has the t handle style as well. I’m wondering if someone lost the t handle and replaced with the rubber style you’re referring to? Is the drain threaded? If so, could just buy t handle?

Welcome back Troy! The crew is not as active as it was a few years ago... a lot of people in the fb groups. From what I’ve read in the fb group, VI is similar to FI as far as options. A little less ballast capacity due to lower freeboard. Sounds like hull is the same shape.

Strange there is no ball valve in the hull. The ball valve is more to keep water out of the boat if something leaks. For just adding T and valve, it is not necessary. I wouldn’t add a check valve, because you don’t want to force hose water through the motor. You want the motor to pull the water through. I close the ball valve only for winterizing. It helps for winterizing too, to keep antifreeze from pouring out when running it through the motor. I do open the valve after for winter storage.

Nice, glad you got it working! Maybe was stuck from drying out over winter. If you don’t know the last time the impeller was changed, it would be a good idea to check it out and/or replace. It’s a cheap and easy change to ensure it won’t leave you stranded or worse blow the engine. Enjoy your new boat!

That sounds like the sea water pump location, which would be normal to be harder to turn. That is how water gets pumped through the motor for cooling. Should look similar to this, where two hoses are connected to it.

Hmm... on the not starting symptoms. Seems like throttle or kill switch - which you said you messed with. I know guys on here have bypassed the kill switch after messing with a lot of things. Beep, and pump sound is normal, it is the fuel pump making the pump sound. I don’t think it’s fuse, because I don’t think you’d get any of the other things to happen, but I could be wrong. Regarding the valve, it looks like you’ve got it! Should be able to hook a hose up, Open the valve and turn on water. Water should come out bottom of boat intake. Once started motor should suck the water in and you won’t see much, if any, water coming out the bottom intake.

Some people use a fake a lake. You suction it to the intake on the bottom of the boat. https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-50073761-Seasense-In-Board-Flusher/dp/B002L557KK/ref=asc_df_B002L557KK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065655587&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2433200280163109152&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019778&hvtargid=pla-521589544206&psc=1 I have never used one, I’ve seen some claims of them not working the greatest. I added a T and valve on the intake. Connect hose up, turn water on and fire it up. It also makes winterizing easier, for sucking anti freeze in. The flush kit you linked works similar. This thread has good info on t-valve.