MobEnzo

I’m not an expert, but if you do a search here you’ll see cap and rotor being a common repair and the iac valve. Sounds like it could be iac?

Ha! I’ve seen that a few times now. Still not sure how that happens, then again the boat launch always brings out the best.

I use the same as linked above for mine without issue the past 5 years. add stabil warm up engine on hose change oil and filter change any other fluids - transmission and v-drive (I don’t do this every year) run engine again on hose drain water from engine block run rv antifreeze through engine run rv antifreeze through ballast pumps think about boating all winter ? Note, that the above does not take into account a heater or shower if you have one. I change transmission every couple of years and haven’t changed v-drive yet. Both always look/smell perfect, but I typically only put 30-40 hours on per season. I have topped v-drive off. V-drive is a non-detergent SAE 30 I believe. Non-detergent is the important part.

I agree Troy, I’m going to give it a shot on my Black Scorpion this season. I saw someone post about this on fb recently and liked the idea. I’ve done the dip stick, just because pump screws on there, but never seems like it gets it all, not too mention the fear of it breaking off.

I can't help with this issue specifically, but if you haven't, I would recommend joining the Official Centurion/Supreme Boat Owners Facebook group. The group is very active, and informative, especially with these newer boats. I did a quick search on there and there is a post from two weeks ago (I can't seem to share the post) about replacing these relays some comments saying constantly until they could get the harness replaced. Others, also mentioned checking fuel pressure. that was on a '19 237 with 450HO motor. Here's the link to the search results in the group, but you'll need to be a member before you can see it... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1882458648689246/search/?query=ignition relay coil&epa=SEARCH_BOX

I should have also said if you like the oem cover. Great Lakes Skipper might be the only place to find oem and that price will be hard to beat for aftermarket. Otherwise like Volzalum said everyone seems very happy with sewlong covers. Have also heard mention of evolution covers in the past too.

Sometimes you can get lucky on greatlakesskipper.com. I would make sure tower info is correct. https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/boat-mooring-cover-spr101-ski-centurion-s-21-supreme-2014-w-skylon-t2-tower

Did you buy the add a battery kit that also has the ACR? If so, I wired similar to this diagram. For the starter battery only thing going to it is the engine. Big positive cable goes to post 1 of switch. A new positive cable goes from switch to battery. Big negative cable goes to negative post on starter battery. I personally put all accessories on the house battery. Assuming you have a smaller gauge positive wire currently hooked to your battery, then you would connect that to post 2 of switch and another new wire from switch to house battery. Then you need to connect negative cable to house battery. If you have ACR, connect that to both positive posts and connect negative post of both batteries.

Yep, I get it and it is unfortunate. I prefer this format over FB.

Welcome back Troy! The community is not as active as it used to be. There is a very active Facebook group now...

Ended up replacing starting battery and all good now.

I have a dual bank setup with blue sea switch and ACR. I don’t currently have a dual bank smart charger. Can I give both batteries a quick top off with the switch off? Or what is the best route to go without a smart charger? Hoping to not disconnect, but obviously can. Also interested in recommendations for smart charger. Thanks crew!

I don't know about draining the fuel. Maybe a siphon to get the bulk of it out? Otherwise I wonder if you can put something like stabil in to treat the old gas and also top off with fresh gas. Other item I would do for prep is change the impeller. Not sure what kind of shape it would be in after sitting and cheap insurance to just change.

Resurrecting an old thread... If the ACR is flipping on with no charger connected, does that indicate one of my batteries has gone or is going bad? This started happening last year... My starter battery is old, but does still work. ACR kicked to combine shortly after connecting both batteries tonight. Turned on stereo and it closed. Then I connected smart charger (finally bought two years later) and ACR combine tripped again. My assumption is that starter battery is giving lower voltage than house battery. Would that trip ACR to combine? If so, I assume new starter battery would fix that? Thanks for the help! ..

Looks like bulletlines.com has what you’re looking for. Their krypt brand I think is considered more “budget” racks. I have them on Evolution tower and work for me.

I went with the bulletlines/krypt racks. They are just bungee strap style of rack. Nothing fancy... The swivel is ok, it’s a little tough to move, but I haven’t played with them much to see if I could fix that. Like I said in my previous post there are nicer racks out there, but they are spendy. Below is a link to what I bought a few years ago. You’ll see an option for centurion gladiator mount as well option if you want swivel or not. https://www.bulletlines.com/double-wakesurf-tower-rack-p/1003.htm Install is easy, it’s all Allen bolts. I have the evolution tower which is different, but concept is the same. Your tower has mounting holes for the bolts to thread into. The quick release option I sent above just has a knob bolt so you can take the rack off of the mount easily for trailering and whatnot. I’ve always taken off and stored in the boat. Whatever brand you go with should have the same options when pricing out. Hope that helps!

I went with swivel. I like being able to get them out of the way if docking and they make loading/unloading with boards easier.

Welcome to the site and nice boat! Your tower is the gladiator tower. Who knows what the previous owner may have had with racks. You could check with them? As for racks, I think Samson, Roswell, and Skylon are probably the more well known brands. I bought some Bulletlines racks a few years ago. They’re a little cheaper than the others. I don’t use them a ton, but they’re fine.

My buddy bought one last summer in MN, pretty decked out, and more hours for mid 50s. Obviously trade in would be different. Could see what dealer would sell for on consignment?

Mine has the t handle style as well. I’m wondering if someone lost the t handle and replaced with the rubber style you’re referring to? Is the drain threaded? If so, could just buy t handle?

Welcome back Troy! The crew is not as active as it was a few years ago... a lot of people in the fb groups. From what I’ve read in the fb group, VI is similar to FI as far as options. A little less ballast capacity due to lower freeboard. Sounds like hull is the same shape.

Strange there is no ball valve in the hull. The ball valve is more to keep water out of the boat if something leaks. For just adding T and valve, it is not necessary. I wouldn’t add a check valve, because you don’t want to force hose water through the motor. You want the motor to pull the water through. I close the ball valve only for winterizing. It helps for winterizing too, to keep antifreeze from pouring out when running it through the motor. I do open the valve after for winter storage.

Nice, glad you got it working! Maybe was stuck from drying out over winter. If you don’t know the last time the impeller was changed, it would be a good idea to check it out and/or replace. It’s a cheap and easy change to ensure it won’t leave you stranded or worse blow the engine. Enjoy your new boat!

That sounds like the sea water pump location, which would be normal to be harder to turn. That is how water gets pumped through the motor for cooling. Should look similar to this, where two hoses are connected to it.

Hmm... on the not starting symptoms. Seems like throttle or kill switch - which you said you messed with. I know guys on here have bypassed the kill switch after messing with a lot of things. Beep, and pump sound is normal, it is the fuel pump making the pump sound. I don’t think it’s fuse, because I don’t think you’d get any of the other things to happen, but I could be wrong. Regarding the valve, it looks like you’ve got it! Should be able to hook a hose up, Open the valve and turn on water. Water should come out bottom of boat intake. Once started motor should suck the water in and you won’t see much, if any, water coming out the bottom intake.