Leaderboard

From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:

Pic

Hey Cliff, There is no wood in a 2005 Enzo. It is full fiberglass construction.

Update: The block to add an Air Chair to the Maximus tower does not need a separate angle adapter and fits just fine. So far it has worked terrific.

Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha

Alright lets all show our Centurions. Here is my 2008 Centurion Avalanche C4 Just picked it up Friday

We have seen a lot of new members in 2017, which is great! For the members that might not know, only two of us run and manage the community. We both have demanding full time jobs. We spend countless hours of our limited free time maintaining the site server, software, support, upgrades in general managing the community and that is just a part of what else goes on in the background. This year was a real under taking with the site upgrade that moved us to a completely new software version. While it may look relatively the same when using the site just about everything changed in the background and we were not expecting the learning curve. While figuring things out we still have a few more major things to do when time permits and we appreciate everyone patience. Not here to complain we do it because, we enjoy it, we get to meet new people that turn into lifelong friends and we always have something in common with everyone, our passion for spending time with family and friends on the water in our boats. We built the CenturionCrew.Com community which was launched over nine years ago. Life and priorities change over 9 years and sometimes managing the site can be a burden. Like the site going down while on a long needed vacation and trying to get it back online with cell phone with limited signal or spending an entire weekend instead of a few hours upgrading the site software because, of some unforeseen issues with incompatible software versions, server upgrades, etc. In nine years the community has grown to over 8,000 members currently, with new members joining on a daily basis. Out of the 8,000 plus members, only 70 of them are currently Supporting Members. Supporting memberships are what support the site/community. Considering the amount of time/hours we spend running and maintaining the site compared to the rate of return, most would wonder why we do it. Since the beginning we have said, as long as the financial burden does not fall solely on us we will continue to run, maintain and grow the community. This year there has been talk about hosting images, bandwidth, file size among other issues. At the end of the day becoming a Supporting Member solves all of the issues. It is $30 a year, $2.50 a month, $.08 a day to have unlimited bandwidth with the only restriction being the size of the image. The images just need to be resized and we believe we have automated the process with the most recent upgrade. The ironic thing is, so many members of this site talk about how much they get from it. Yet it seems they feel it is somehow not their responsibility to help support the very thing that brings them the advice they are looking for, friends from far and near they would have never met otherwise, the sense of pride from ownership of their Centurion/Supreme Boat and the spirit of sharing it with fellow boat owners within the community. Those that have been in the community for a while know we very seldom say anything about memberships or supporting the site. This is a community, we built it, launched it, maintain it, we never wanted to have to ask for members to support it, we just assumed that it would happen. Considering the fact we still put our person funds into the site, plus our free time, it is frustrating having to actually ask members of the community to support it. We need more members supporting the community they enjoy visiting on a reqular basis. Please consider purchasing one of the memberships outlined below. Centurion Boats Supporting Membership - $30.00 Annually - Upgraded to Centurion Forum Group - UpgradedCenturion Supporting Member Icon - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Supreme Boats Supporting Membership - $30.00 Annually - Upgraded to Supreme Forum Group - Upgraded Supreme Supporting Member Icon - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Centurion Dealer Supporting Membership - $100.00 Annually - Upgraded to Centurion Dealer Forum Group - Upgraded Centurion Dealer Supporting Member Icon - About the Dealer page in the Dealer Classifieds - Unlimited Centurion boat advertising in the Dealer Classifieds - Access to post Centurion Dealer events in News From Centurion Boat and Dealers Sub-Forum - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Overall, thanks for all of the support from everyone on the Crew over the past nine years, we truly appreciate everyone of you and are thankful for it. For those members that continue to support the community yearly we could not have done it without you. Thanks for helping to make the community what it is today! Be sure to share your thoughts on supporting the community and how the CenturionCrew.Com and SupremeCrew.Com community has help you through the years. Regards, Ken and Andrea

Honestly the holes are inside the transom they don't pass into the hull so no leak would occur so don't think I did anything but sure throw little marine sealant on or silicone if it makes ya warm and fuzzy wont hurt anything.

People have cut a whole in that area and added a sub. However, it’s relatively thick fiberglass and not very easy to cut. I used to have a 2007 Avy, and my sub was on top of that area and worked out great there for whatever that’s worth.

Awesome upgrades. Great job on all the work.

It’s not possible to upgrade the valves, just look for a 2022 or newer. At lower elevation the 6.0 HO will move that boat fine. If you ride with a big crew or run lead, or plan on going up in elevation Id go ZZ6, keep in mind the ZZ6 will be the more desirable mill and better for resale down the road. 2907 prop or similar will be necessary with the 6.0.

I owned a 2015 FS33 until last year that we bought brand new and I only had a valve stick on me 1x (400+hrs). My screen went out the very first year I had it, it was covered under warranty and I didn't have any other issues. I LOVED this boat.

The Enzo 233 was one of the best surf boats on the market when new. The Enzo hull does better with a lean (all of the ballast on the surf side full and only a little weight on the off side) than filling everything using surf tabs like the newer boats. 1) PnP are the bags on top of the Ramfill tanks. They are pump fed. 2) I've never surfed an Enzo with surf tabs, but as previously stated, my understanding is that your best wave is going to be with the old traditional lean. Using surf tabs you should be able to switch side to side, but honestly, once you've done that a few times the novelty wears off and you won't do it. We messed with that a few times when we first bought our boat, but don't mess with it at all anymore. 3) My understanding is that with CATS you can make a pretty good goofy wave.

Had to do the same thing with my 07 Avalanche. Ended up costing 6 grand, but the guy had to basically rebuild all the seats. Foam was toast all the way through. If yours aren't in the horrible shape mine were in, the upholstery shop should have an easier time replicating yours. I was the last job this guy was doing before retiring and moving - talk about a going away gift.

I have no such issues like above.. was just searching for Avalanche info and came across this thread. Much thanks to you @Dan gib for following through on these threads and posting. Finding a solution to the problem is helpful to many, even if it feels likes its on deaf ears. Kudos my man!

Very nice ride KC! Congrats! Are some of those pics at Havasu?

@volzalum is spot on. Honestly, you'd be better off scraping that whole sprinkler valve setup as well as the aerator drain valves and installing reversible (Ballast Puppy/Johnson/Wakemaker) pumps for each ballast location.

Also it’s a 2006 23’ typhoon but the late year model with the deeper-v hull w/o the cut outs and the c 4 wrap around seating…

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.

I took it by the dealer and they immediately said the hull failed. The boats headed back to the factory.

Hey Jason, Yes, my understanding is that deploying the Asymmetrical plate downward will help clean up the goofy wave. I had an ‘07 Avy (similar running surface) before my current boat and I had a custom Asymmetrical plate fab’ed for it. The cleanest goofy wave I could get was with the plate deployed beyond 50%. The FAE will not only reduce CO2, but will reduce engine/exhaust noise. Some have said they can create a little bit of spray, but it’s negligible.

As you probably already searched and found, this fault is Intake Air Temperature higher than expected (>200 deg F). Is the fault persistent after allowing some cool down time? What boat/year/model/engine are you working with? I would check the spark arrestor for any type of debris/blockage, clean the spark arrestor while I was at it, then test. If the problem persisted, replace the IAT sensor. I also found this. See page 46: http://www.wakeflot.ru/doc/PCM_Diagnostic_manual.pdf

It is surfable, but my understanding is that the cut out in the transom effect the wave some. You’ll want to throw some more weight under the port side seat. Fly high makes, what I think they’re calling, a 650 sac that will fit will. I’m not sure to what extent the cut out impacts the wave and what can be done to mitigate. Hopefully someone with that boat will chime in.

To my knowledge (I had an ‘07 Avy C4) the floor plan never changed.

I have a 2021 and although I have not have it in the water yet I have played around with it in the driveway. My plate moves more than 5 times (0-25% in 5% increments is how I understood what you said). Mine moves basically 20 times, moves every click of the trim lever. 5% each click, 0-100%.

Thank @jtryon and @Troy. R I got the FLY HIGH FATSAC 650 CENTER LOCKER / REAR SEAT BAG & SUPA TSUNAMI PUMP (650 LB) and it fits great.

Seems like a bad engine speed sensor based on the description. Strange that it only manifested once ballast was full and zero off was engaged though.

You should be able to get to a spectrum gel kit color to get what you need. See what you can find here: https://spectrumcolor-com.3dcartstores.com/Gel-Coat-Search_c_7.html

That's exactly what I ended up doing after a days worth of trial and error. Listing seems to help with the size of the wave more than the tabs. I dialed a starboard wave that was very surfable but was unable to produce a clean lip on the port side for my regular riders. Thanks for your input

dimensions for my typhoon are 10" height, 26" width under the passenger seat, so you can start there on wakemakers' site and get whatever length you need. check here, for instance they have a 50"L x 25"W x 10"H which gives you 500lbs, or a 60" long for 610lbs, or 70" long for 710lbs.

The hull is the same through all those years

13-year-old thread brought back to life, wow! since it's bumped up, there's a great thread on this site called "winterized my black scorpion" with everything a scorpion owner needs to know on proper winterization.

we got our RI230 and by night with the small white interior lights where dazzling my blue eyes. Directly i decided to do a small fixe. If someone has the same issue i m more than happy to share the file to 3d print those little covers. text me if you would like to have the .STL file or the G code for the 3d printer Hello everyone

Nice! That S220 looks like it’s a great boat. Boardco has some good videos on YouTube for setting up and fine tuning your surf wave on a Centurion that I found to correlate well to my ZS. I’m sure they would be useful to you on the S220 as well.

I have never used antifreeze, but then again I lived in CA and now live in AZ. If I were in NW Montana, I would use antifreeze just for peace of mind. Look into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Winterizer-Winterize-Preparation-65501/dp/B0000AXQU2

Wake shapers were not out yet when I had my Avy either, but my understanding is that the Avy hull is better off without a wake shaper and just using good ole' displacement to lean it over. We would run ours with the rear corner of the rubrail under water.

Troy Congrats on the new boat!!!

Well since the boat is out of commission for awhile, I was able to get the gator step installed. Took some back and forth with a couple of the templates, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The two biggest pieces arent perfect but I'm probably the only one that will notice. Got a couple air bubbles that I couldnt get out, took a razor and was able to get the air out and I think it'll be fine.

Just give it a good scrub. If its really bad, use some toilet bowl cleaner to strip all of the grime. Then put a good coat of polish on it.

Thanks Troy. I called Centurion today and they said the factory wiring system was not working with the original ballast puppy and new DPDT switch because there is a relay in there and is really not designed for the reversible pump. They also said there also could be issues because the wire running to the pump is also connected to the wire for the sprinkler valve (although I had already disconnected and removed that). Anyway, they said to run new wire to the pump (like you said) and also to the terminal under the helm and add a 30 amp inline breaker. I guess they are not confident in that breaker panel after all. Anyway, I ordered all the necessary equipment from Wakemakers today. I may try connecting the system to that terminal under the helm which then runs to the battery with heavy gauge wire. I did buy enough wire to make it all the way to the battery because I like the idea of connecting to the house battery to allow filling and draining without running the engine. So tomorrow, I will install the new Johnson Pump and do all the plumbing and next week, I will take care of the wiring. Thanks for all your help.

Hey guys, first post, but I've already gotten a ton of info off this forum. Pretty much the reason I searched specifically for a Avalanche. Got this 2006 a couple months ago from a dealer in Canada. Was a bit of a risk, had to purchase before ever seeing it in person because the border is closed. Overall have found a few small surprises, but nothing to big. Its a well taken care of boat. I searched for about 4-5 months and think it was the best choice with what is on the market. Its the same boat as page 13 of this thread. An Infinity surf system is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. A FAE system is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed to eliminate the sideswipe. Will be placing a Gatorstep order soon. Will be ordering a new prop, it currently has the 817 Acme on it. Got the following maintenance completed and took it for its first drive Saturday to learn the boat. Its our first inboard, so a bit of a learning curve coming from I/O. Changed V Drive fluid Changed Transmission fluid, couldn't get it all out, so just added back in what I took out. Replaced both fuel filters Put in new impeller Greased V Drive shaft Greased rudder All new blue plugs I was unable to change the oil. The tube I have for the extractor pump is super small but wont get all the way down the dip stick, it hangs up on something, even the dipstick itself doesn't go in easily. The top of the dipstick has some sort of fitting on it. Please see picture. What do I need to accomplish this? Heres a few pics

If you're looking to keep it reasonable, you could build a new distribution centre off of your existing pump using always closed valves, some simple wiring, and extra switches on the bank below your throttle. I replaced my sprinkler valves with 12 Volte Brass Always ($25 each on Amazon I think) Closed Valves. While the wiring was there already for each of the ballast zones/pump/valves, 12 volt wiring is pretty easy to run between your switches and the valves. For venting, I used some simple check valves on the vent lines which helped when I was pumping out the bags - helped to create a bit of an air lock in the bags. Here's the link for my project: https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/ballast-projects/ballast-solenoid-upgrade-distribution-r161/ For pumping out the water, you'd do two more similar 12 volt pumps like the one shown above. I think for both you'd use those double throw switches. Drilling vent lines and pump out holes above the water line is pretty easy - just use masking tape to measure it all out and then drill your hole with a holesaw in reverse and take your time. Fittings are easy to find. If I was upgrading it all again without adding extra pumps, I'd look at up grading my main pump for something with higher volume and then increase the tubing size to the valves, 1" valves, and 1" tubes to each of the bags to help improve filing time. You could like go larger than that depending on your through hull size..

I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.

An Avy can throw an awesome wave. Make sure the connections are good on the PP. Are you planning on listing the boat, a suck gate or tabs? I list mine and love my wave. Others like the suckgate (fuel hog) and others like adding tabs. If you have to swap sides alot, I recommend the infinity tabs. If you ride the same side all the time, list it and save the $$$. For my listed wave I do the factory center, 1500lb custom sac and about another 200-300 lbs on the seat. the wave is tall, long and has good push. Just a driver maybe a kid or 2. I also have a custom a-plate. Since we only surf goofy, my whole system is designed for that side. I've done write ups on here about my ballast system and plate. Welcome to the Crew!!!!

If you space turning the pump off it will burn the impeller up. No big deal on the in because you have water running through it and it will just blow out the overflow but when you reverse and pump out if you run it dry you are spinning a rubber impeller up against the housing wall with no coolant. on mine the switch got bumped and I started smelling burnt rubber. Also after a bunch of years those impellers can get brittle and crack.

Okay, this is going to sound ridiculous but it's true. I had the exact problem with my 2017 s238 and discovered a few others having the same problem. What we found is that the safety lanyard at the base of the throttle is SUPER sensitive to being bumped so when I was towing a goofy side rider with my body twisted to the right or came off throttle I would hit that switch VERY lightly with my knee/leg and everything would die. It was happening while towing and I had people run into the boat! Cwazy also had this problem and we both modified the safety lanyards on our boats so it couldn't be bumped. It has never happened again.

If you want more power you need to go with at least the 450. The 409 and the 343 have almost identical torque curves which is what moves a boat. Granted the 409 makes more horse power but at an RPM range that is not used in a wake boat.

adding grease to the rudder helps it seal out water it will do nothing for hard steering.If the boat steering wheel does not spin with one finger when out of the water it is time for a new cable.................H