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  1. 2 points
    From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….
  2. 2 points
    On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Hey Cliff, There is no wood in a 2005 Enzo. It is full fiberglass construction.
  5. 2 points
    Update: The block to add an Air Chair to the Maximus tower does not need a separate angle adapter and fits just fine. So far it has worked terrific.
  6. 2 points
    Able to check another small item off the list last night. Was having trouble getting the oil changed, no matter what I tried couldnt get the siphon tube down the dip stick tube. Finally figured out that the threads at the top of the dipstick fit a garden hose. Heres what I came up with, couple pumps and the oil started flowing. And after changing the filter a remote filter looks really appealing. Man what a pain. Used a couple plastic bags and was able to catch all the oil though, so no mess.
  7. 2 points
    Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha
  8. 1 point
    Ya I also have my sub above the foot rest its a bazooka tube the big one it works well, when it goes I def planning on cutting one in I know its been done here before. My thought was just use the fiberglass as a box maybe add some poly stuffing might sounds like crap not sure could also port the box.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Awesome upgrades. Great job on all the work.
  11. 1 point
    The 396 hrs for an 8 yr old boat that has been well maintained wouldn’t scare me away. That said, the FS44 only has 142hrs for $2k-ish more.
  12. 1 point
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  13. 1 point
    It looks like a ProFlight Swoop tower. They were very common among the wakeboat manufacturers based in the CA Central Valley in the early-mid 2000’s.
  14. 1 point
    Yes - devise is the BT-RS. The headunit is the supreme factory all in one unit. It controls everything. There is not a "stand alone" radio headunit on the boat. The Iphone connects to the supreme headunit and basically all music is played from the phone. On the phone itself, i can control song selection, play/pause, and skip. I can NOT control volume on the phone. The BT-RS is connected to the phone and basically allows me to do the same. Play/Pause and skip track - but no volume control. The touch screen headunit allows me to do everything. Zone control, volume control, and pause play skip tracks. I can NOT connect the BT RS straight to the headunit via bluetooth and i cannot find an aux port to physically connect to the headunit. The latter is what i was hoping for in order to control the master volume. I actually called supreme to ask and was told that these new all in one units did not have an aux option. So for now going to leave it how we have it unless there is a creative way to override it and control volume from the BT RS. Im just not much of a touch screen person, especially when under way. Its not an issue, just personal preference.
  15. 1 point
    Very nice ride KC! Congrats! Are some of those pics at Havasu?
  16. 1 point
    We had an original all yellow(!) 2004 Enzo SV230, purchased new in spring of ‘06. We loved it and had until 2014, when kids had gotten car keys and no longer wanted to hang out with Mom Dad LOL. I had the honor of being a driver for the 2008 World WakeSurf Championship, hosted here in Nashville. I was active on the “Crew”, and even ran across my Centurioncrew.com T-shirt the other day (like new!). Long story short, our sons have gotten married and returned to the area, we have other friends that appreciate lake life, so…we decided to get a boat! Bought a beautiful 2020 Vi24 maintained well by the PO. We are so stoked and so happy to be back in the Centurion family! Pics are here (hopefully): https://link.shutterfly.com/idR62Ana7rb
  17. 1 point
    @volzalum is spot on. Honestly, you'd be better off scraping that whole sprinkler valve setup as well as the aerator drain valves and installing reversible (Ballast Puppy/Johnson/Wakemaker) pumps for each ballast location.
  18. 1 point
    Depends how far you want to go up under the seat, my custom starboard sac would work. You can add more to the finger if you want to go farther up under the seat.
  19. 1 point
    does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.
  20. 1 point
    I took it by the dealer and they immediately said the hull failed. The boats headed back to the factory.
  21. 1 point
    Hey Jason, Yes, my understanding is that deploying the Asymmetrical plate downward will help clean up the goofy wave. I had an ‘07 Avy (similar running surface) before my current boat and I had a custom Asymmetrical plate fab’ed for it. The cleanest goofy wave I could get was with the plate deployed beyond 50%. The FAE will not only reduce CO2, but will reduce engine/exhaust noise. Some have said they can create a little bit of spray, but it’s negligible.
  22. 1 point
    As you probably already searched and found, this fault is Intake Air Temperature higher than expected (>200 deg F). Is the fault persistent after allowing some cool down time? What boat/year/model/engine are you working with? I would check the spark arrestor for any type of debris/blockage, clean the spark arrestor while I was at it, then test. If the problem persisted, replace the IAT sensor. I also found this. See page 46: http://www.wakeflot.ru/doc/PCM_Diagnostic_manual.pdf
  23. 1 point
    Why not consider the 8" Icon-8 over the 8" Rev-8? Volume can be controlled by the volume dial, but the larger speaker will deliver better sound quality.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks Troy, just got off the phone with perfect pass and have one on the way!
  25. 1 point
    To my knowledge (I had an ‘07 Avy C4) the floor plan never changed.
  26. 1 point
    Seems like a bad engine speed sensor based on the description. Strange that it only manifested once ballast was full and zero off was engaged though.
  27. 1 point
    You should be able to get to a spectrum gel kit color to get what you need. See what you can find here: https://spectrumcolor-com.3dcartstores.com/Gel-Coat-Search_c_7.html
  28. 1 point
    That's going to be hard to find. But you should be able to find the manual for your engine. Sorry.
  29. 1 point
    dimensions for my typhoon are 10" height, 26" width under the passenger seat, so you can start there on wakemakers' site and get whatever length you need. check here, for instance they have a 50"L x 25"W x 10"H which gives you 500lbs, or a 60" long for 610lbs, or 70" long for 710lbs.
  30. 1 point
    Those early boats had a hodgepodge of ballast system from the factory. And who knows what any of the other owners had done to it. In reality you are probably going to be scrapping a bunch of it to get you a good functioning system anyway. It would be really helpful to see what you are working with for starters. Can you take some pictures and post them here? Take pictures of your switch panel, all pumps, thru hull intakes, tanks or fat sacs, valves, etc. They we can tell you what is useful and and what is not. Then you can build the ballast system from there. The good news is the Avy throws an amazing surf wave. To give you some additional information about how the ballast system usually worked in those years. There was a single water intake either in the bottom of the boat (near the T-handle plug) or in the rear of the boat under the swim step. The water would come in to a single Jabsco pump that is set up as a non reversible pump (they can be set up as reversible). The Jabsco pump would pump water through a manifold system with 3 sprinkler valves. There were 3 switches on the dash (Port, Stbd, Center) that would activate the Jabsco pump and the corresponding sprinkler valve that would direct the water to the correct hard plastic tank. Each tank had about 250# weight capacity. Each of those hard tanks has a Mayfair aerator style pump screwed into the rear or it that is used to empty the tank. A few thoughts about this.... 1. The hard tanks are way too small to do any good in the port and stbd lockers. They will need to come out unless you are just going to tube and wakeboard. Not enough weight for surfing. 2. The center hard tank can stay and be reused. 3. The sprinkler valve manifold is the weak link in the system. It slows down everything will need to be ripped out if you want to upgrade your system to bigger fat sacs. 4. Unfortunately you will pretty much want to start from scratch to get a good system with more intakes in the hull, adding a couple Jabsco or Johnson ultra reversible pumps, 1100# sacs in the rear lockers, 480-580# sacs under the side seats, and a couple hundred pounds of lead bags for the back corner of the lockers. Lots of people can help you get a good system designed and installed if you are handy. Help us understand what your starting components are and we can go from there.
  31. 1 point
    @Bigcatpt knows his stuff when it comes to setting these boats up. His ballast build posts and insight were a big part of my ballast design/build.
  32. 1 point
    Hey @newtonabbie, Me again! Haha! Unfortunately this site doesn't get near the traffic that it used to. When I first joined in the 2010 timeframe, this place was hoppin' and was such a great place to get boating and specifically Centurion information. I don't do social media, so it's my only boating outlet. So, we took a real good look at the FI23 as well in our search. I loved the upgraded tech, ramfill, fit/finish of the FI23 over the ZS232. My wife actually preferred the look of the ZS and decided she would prefer to go the ZS route even BEFORE she knew the $$ difference. Hahaha! That, and of course the cost difference, drove us toward the ZS. The size/interior space is very comparable between the 2 boats. The ZS actually sits a little taller (has higher freeboard) and as such is a little heavier/more tow weight, but its marginal (maybe 150-200 lbs). They have VERY similar running surfaces (Opti-V on the FI, Tapered-V on the ZS) and very similar weight when fully ballast loaded. They both throw a phenomenal surf wave. I never got to the point where I tested the FI, but based on the input of my local dealer, they said the ZS wave is actually a little better if you're looking at wave alone (leaving out all of the other obvious upgrades of the FI over the ZS). In reality, The running surfaces, weight, size, and surf systems are so similar on the 2 boats, I doubt most would be able to tell the difference in the waves.
  33. 1 point
    Just got back from demoing a beautiful ri230 red and black metal Flake. It drove beautiful. It felt solid and was shocked how quiet it was. Surf wave was impressive as expected. It looks to be quality built and looks the part. If I had to nit pick, seat storage cushions didn’t have shocks to hold the seats up and not all the cushions are hinged. Some wires and brackets were exposed. A little disappointing for $200+k. But I can look past all that since it does so many other things well and for the awesome ride quality and waves it puts out. We decided we need the extra space, so it will be a ri245 for us. Now just trying to workout a price before we order.
  34. 1 point
    we got our RI230 and by night with the small white interior lights where dazzling my blue eyes. Directly i decided to do a small fixe. If someone has the same issue i m more than happy to share the file to 3d print those little covers. text me if you would like to have the .STL file or the G code for the 3d printer Hello everyone
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Well since the boat is out of commission for awhile, I was able to get the gator step installed. Took some back and forth with a couple of the templates, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The two biggest pieces arent perfect but I'm probably the only one that will notice. Got a couple air bubbles that I couldnt get out, took a razor and was able to get the air out and I think it'll be fine.
  37. 1 point
    Extreme Custom Trailers and Boatmate are the 2 trailer manufactures that Centurion currently uses. As @chenige suggested, they might have used VM in 2015. If you call the factory they can point you in the right direction. 209-384-0255.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks -- I have put my order in, but can still tweak it at this stage. Went with the Fi23, std 409HP, max ballast except for the extra bow tank, all hex white upholstery with charcoal hex accents, black gatorstep.
  39. 1 point
    You should be able to just run new wire from the load side of the circuit breaker. That way you still take advantage of the existing breaker panel.
  40. 1 point
    Agreed with everything @Dreamer said. You’ll never say, “I wish I got that smaller boat. There’s just too much room on this one.” In terms of ballast/wave on the 23 v 21, the 23 comes with more factory ballast which compensates for the bigger hull. I live in AZ, although I don’t have black gator step, my local dealer said it’s not an issue and does not get too hot even in the AZ direct sun (120 degrees!). Resale will also be MUCH better with the 23.
  41. 1 point
    Photo of new prop installed.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Congrats on the new boat! Which model did you get (220, 230, 240)? My main concerns would be a mechanical check of the engine/trans/v-drive and replace fluids/filters/impeller while they’re at it. A diagnostic check of ECM to see if there is any stored fault data and while the computer is hooked up, you may as well get the actual engine hrs wouldn’t be a bad idea either. Other things they could check would be function of gauges, function of ballast pumps, function of blower, function of bilge pump, things like that, but these are items you can easily check yourself.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks a bunch for all your advice guys. I decided the 2014 SV233 was my best option (newer, CATS, Ramfill, updated touchscreen, high altitude Acme 1847 prop, better looking exterior/interior) and made a deal today - HOORAY! The boat market in western Canada is much smaller and is crazy hot right now (as it turned out the 2012 SV233 I was considering also sold today) so I am thrilled to have secured a great surf boat now. The dealer agreed to give me first shot if any comparable Centurions came in on trade with 409 in the next few months. Many thanks to everyone on the Centurion Crew site for all the great posts - this is such a great resource.
  46. 1 point
    I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.
  47. 1 point
    Since you are using -4 cat's I'm assuming your talking regular and not goofy? I ask because there is a lot of talk about which way cats is supposed to work ( from the other thread the RI's use + for goofy side and - for regular side) this could be a killer thread but we should all help each other 1st by specifying what side we are talking about just to stop any confusion. If we all get on the same page with listing our setups I think we can create a good database. Boat RI 217 with 409 - 1235 prop. Lake : Deep water ( 150+) For my goofy riders im using: Center tab 50 70/0 for tabs All PNP full (timers reset for longer fill times to make sure they are full) 85-90/100 for ram fill Cat's @ 0 ( but want to test more with the + setting ) Speed 11.2-11.6 Crew- 3-4 I love the above goofy wave its steep but super smooth and long. With that said, I actually want to mess with a little less rear weight as I think I am over using the center tab to flatten the boat out. I want to test 65/75 on the ram fill with 20-30 center tab, my guess is this might equal a longer wave but slightly less steep. I don't have many regular riders but will start to keep notes.
  48. 1 point
    Usually to get a longer wave....add bow ballast, or in lieu of that, you can add some center trim tab. Weight in bow is likely better tho, that is how I get my wave longer in my SV244. You can also speed up some to make it longer, but I like 11-11.2mph, so I add bow ballast and/or trim. It will knock down the size of wave a little...but if you have 100% full in rear, you should have plenty of counter to have a high enough wave either way.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Thanks in advance for reading this. I have a 97 ski centurion that I am reupholstering and I need to remove the drivers seat. It sits on a black platform just barely inches off the ground. There is a slider bar that lets you slide the seat forward and backwards while you are sitting in it. No matter where the seat is slid it is impossible to access some of the screws that bolt the platform to the boat deck. I have no clue how to remove this seat! It is driving me crazy! There must be an easy way to get this seat to slide off from the platform. It would be impossible for the factory guys to install these seats otherwise. Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help is helpful.
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