Leaderboard

From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:

Pic

Hey Cliff, There is no wood in a 2005 Enzo. It is full fiberglass construction.

Update: The block to add an Air Chair to the Maximus tower does not need a separate angle adapter and fits just fine. So far it has worked terrific.

Able to check another small item off the list last night. Was having trouble getting the oil changed, no matter what I tried couldnt get the siphon tube down the dip stick tube. Finally figured out that the threads at the top of the dipstick fit a garden hose. Heres what I came up with, couple pumps and the oil started flowing. And after changing the filter a remote filter looks really appealing. Man what a pain. Used a couple plastic bags and was able to catch all the oil though, so no mess.

Thanks a bunch for all your advice guys. I decided the 2014 SV233 was my best option (newer, CATS, Ramfill, updated touchscreen, high altitude Acme 1847 prop, better looking exterior/interior) and made a deal today - HOORAY! The boat market in western Canada is much smaller and is crazy hot right now (as it turned out the 2012 SV233 I was considering also sold today) so I am thrilled to have secured a great surf boat now. The dealer agreed to give me first shot if any comparable Centurions came in on trade with 409 in the next few months. Many thanks to everyone on the Centurion Crew site for all the great posts - this is such a great resource.

Thanks for your perspective and advice on this. It is looking like pricing on used Centurion is universally (at least on the east coast) the same as you describe in TX. Definitely willing and able to go higher, not so certain I will have the opportunity. There are other very similar boats across state lines, so all is not lost. One thing I have read about here and other places is the importance dealer support and relationship, which is what makes me so concerned about the "vibe" of this interaction and what the future might hold if I end up buying this one. They're not the closest to me, but I hate to alienate anyone nonetheless. I'm in NC, but appreciate the offer for sure. I'll be spending a few early weekday mornings on the ramp when nobody is around to try to get my act together. Hopefully this will help me avoid or minimize the stage fright factor when a line of experienced folks are waiting for me to back down the ramp and launch.

Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha

We have seen a lot of new members in 2017, which is great! For the members that might not know, only two of us run and manage the community. We both have demanding full time jobs. We spend countless hours of our limited free time maintaining the site server, software, support, upgrades in general managing the community and that is just a part of what else goes on in the background. This year was a real under taking with the site upgrade that moved us to a completely new software version. While it may look relatively the same when using the site just about everything changed in the background and we were not expecting the learning curve. While figuring things out we still have a few more major things to do when time permits and we appreciate everyone patience. Not here to complain we do it because, we enjoy it, we get to meet new people that turn into lifelong friends and we always have something in common with everyone, our passion for spending time with family and friends on the water in our boats. We built the CenturionCrew.Com community which was launched over nine years ago. Life and priorities change over 9 years and sometimes managing the site can be a burden. Like the site going down while on a long needed vacation and trying to get it back online with cell phone with limited signal or spending an entire weekend instead of a few hours upgrading the site software because, of some unforeseen issues with incompatible software versions, server upgrades, etc. In nine years the community has grown to over 8,000 members currently, with new members joining on a daily basis. Out of the 8,000 plus members, only 70 of them are currently Supporting Members. Supporting memberships are what support the site/community. Considering the amount of time/hours we spend running and maintaining the site compared to the rate of return, most would wonder why we do it. Since the beginning we have said, as long as the financial burden does not fall solely on us we will continue to run, maintain and grow the community. This year there has been talk about hosting images, bandwidth, file size among other issues. At the end of the day becoming a Supporting Member solves all of the issues. It is $30 a year, $2.50 a month, $.08 a day to have unlimited bandwidth with the only restriction being the size of the image. The images just need to be resized and we believe we have automated the process with the most recent upgrade. The ironic thing is, so many members of this site talk about how much they get from it. Yet it seems they feel it is somehow not their responsibility to help support the very thing that brings them the advice they are looking for, friends from far and near they would have never met otherwise, the sense of pride from ownership of their Centurion/Supreme Boat and the spirit of sharing it with fellow boat owners within the community. Those that have been in the community for a while know we very seldom say anything about memberships or supporting the site. This is a community, we built it, launched it, maintain it, we never wanted to have to ask for members to support it, we just assumed that it would happen. Considering the fact we still put our person funds into the site, plus our free time, it is frustrating having to actually ask members of the community to support it. We need more members supporting the community they enjoy visiting on a reqular basis. Please consider purchasing one of the memberships outlined below. Centurion Boats Supporting Membership - $30.00 Annually - Upgraded to Centurion Forum Group - UpgradedCenturion Supporting Member Icon - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Supreme Boats Supporting Membership - $30.00 Annually - Upgraded to Supreme Forum Group - Upgraded Supreme Supporting Member Icon - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Centurion Dealer Supporting Membership - $100.00 Annually - Upgraded to Centurion Dealer Forum Group - Upgraded Centurion Dealer Supporting Member Icon - About the Dealer page in the Dealer Classifieds - Unlimited Centurion boat advertising in the Dealer Classifieds - Access to post Centurion Dealer events in News From Centurion Boat and Dealers Sub-Forum - Increased Disk space for attachments, pictures and video - Increased bandwidth - Increased User Profile Pic Size - Increased Private Messaging Storage with Attachments in Private Messaging - Personal signature - Private and Public Centurion Crew Picture/Media Gallery Overall, thanks for all of the support from everyone on the Crew over the past nine years, we truly appreciate everyone of you and are thankful for it. For those members that continue to support the community yearly we could not have done it without you. Thanks for helping to make the community what it is today! Be sure to share your thoughts on supporting the community and how the CenturionCrew.Com and SupremeCrew.Com community has help you through the years. Regards, Ken and Andrea

We talked about this in the "Older Centurion" thread. Do you have a Tru-Trac or a Falcon? If yes, post a pic or multiple pics of it here. Have a good work around or modification, post it here. Questions? Post them here. I have some old brochures, I'll post them up this evening. Here's a pic of my 1993 open bow Falcon.

There are actually 4 of them in your boat. 2 large and 2 smaller forward. You can try calling centurion. They might be able to point you to a vendor. Otherwise, you’ll have to make them. I’d use plastic as thick as the U-channel on the floor will hold. I’d also reinforce them with U-channel aluminum on the engine side. 209-384-0255

I haven’t heard much in terms using a wake shaper on an Enzo. My opinion is that you probably don’t need it. That Enzo hull likes to lean. Start by filling your Enzo sac on the port side, keeping the starboard empty, and running at 10.5 mph. You’ll probably end up needing more weight, but that will give you a good baseline to start from. Adding weight to the rear/under the port side seats will make the wave bigger. You can play with the speed too (I wouldn’t recommend over about 11), but if I recall correctly, 10.5 is what most of us were running with Avys/Enzos back in the day.

Maybe something like this? https://www.cutandcouple.com/product/material-suction-and-discharge-hose/?attribute_pa_hose-i-d=4&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoeemBhCfARIsADR2QCsnNVPBAdd86cnrf4nd568rTae4yZNneciL7hMEgsLSC9F14A-YVtsaAh5CEALw_wcB

People have cut a whole in that area and added a sub. However, it’s relatively thick fiberglass and not very easy to cut. I used to have a 2007 Avy, and my sub was on top of that area and worked out great there for whatever that’s worth.

Yes, I went with the 316 stainless. The 2 1/2” was a perfect fit. I very happy with the new setup.

Hey @Avy06: how is this working for you so far? Our platform bracket busted on Monday, so I'm about to pull the trigger on the Alloy Marine ones for our 2007 Typhoon. Did the new 2-1/2" bolts work well with the thicker transom plate, or did you need something longer? I'm assuming you went with the 316 stainless instead of 18-8, but if you have any more details to share, it would be greatly appreciated.

It looks like a ProFlight Swoop tower. They were very common among the wakeboat manufacturers based in the CA Central Valley in the early-mid 2000’s.

Hey Adam, Short answer, yes. You'll also want to add sacrificial anodes to your underwater gear. see link below: https://www.piratescave.co.uk/blogs/blog/what-are-anodes-on-a-boat-used-for/#:~:text=Boat anodes are an essential,- aluminium%2C magnesium and zinc. In addition to flushing the engine, I would thoroughly clean the underwater gear and trailer after each use in salt water. You really don't need to add the fresh water line to be honest, you could do the same with a Fake-a-Lake. https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-50073761-Seasense-In-Board-Flusher/dp/B002L557KK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2SMCFYTWXYMHZ&keywords=fake+a+lake&qid=1670249412&sprefix=fake+a+lake%2Caps%2C407&sr=8-4 You probably already know, but running your boat in salt water will significantly devalue it to most potential future buyers if/when you decide to sell. I hope that helps. Best of luck!

Not sure the best place to put this, but I will use this as a place to show projects, upgrades, learning about the boat, ask questions, maint., have conversation, etc. And possibly help others in a similar situation as I try and figure everything out. Introduced the boat up in the show us your boat thread. Got a 12 x 30 metal carport installed last week for storage, so thats a win. Ordered a Acme 1619 from wakemakers and they had it to me in literally a day. Also got a prop knocker to remove old prop. Was struggling with the prop knocker, zero movement. Sucked it up and ordered a c clamp puller from Bakes (wakemakers was out). Ended up having to beat on the back of the puller a fair amount, but eventually prop came loose. Prop mustve been on there for quite awhile. Kinda surprising old prop was Acme 817 that I will use as a spare. Surprising because boat came equipped with bags to get boat pretty heavily weighted, I assumed they wouldve been running little more surf friendly prop. Anyway got new prop installed super easy, torqued to 40lbs, and now just gotta wait for another nice lake day to test it out. Paper test fit pieces and mylar from gator step showed up in the mail, so will be tackling that very soon.

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

Just as a follow up, I wound up buying a 2019 Ri237. Purchased from Boardco and Tyler was great to deal with. Have already put 60 hours on it down in two trips to Havasu. Wave is fantastic. Day one, struggle fest. Day two, wave looking good. Day three, four, five, six etc, wave dialed. My SV230 threw a great wave. This is similar wave but much more predictable, better in chop, better push from the back, and really everything I was hoping for. Let me know if anyone thinking about a similar switch has questions and thanks for all the help.

Thanks for the heads up. The actuators to switch sides definitely work. I used them all last summer and just took them off the boat. I'll put them up in the Classifieds.

Shane, Its holding up fine, although we try and keep everything pretty clean, no shoes, etc. Yes happy with it. Way better than carpet.

It is surfable, but my understanding is that the cut out in the transom effect the wave some. You’ll want to throw some more weight under the port side seat. Fly high makes, what I think they’re calling, a 650 sac that will fit will. I’m not sure to what extent the cut out impacts the wave and what can be done to mitigate. Hopefully someone with that boat will chime in.

You can probably get this made by SendCutSend. They are a site that you send a cad to and they will machine whatever you like.

Thank @jtryon and @Troy. R I got the FLY HIGH FATSAC 650 CENTER LOCKER / REAR SEAT BAG & SUPA TSUNAMI PUMP (650 LB) and it fits great.

That's going to be hard to find. But you should be able to find the manual for your engine. Sorry.

Just got back from demoing a beautiful ri230 red and black metal Flake. It drove beautiful. It felt solid and was shocked how quiet it was. Surf wave was impressive as expected. It looks to be quality built and looks the part. If I had to nit pick, seat storage cushions didn’t have shocks to hold the seats up and not all the cushions are hinged. Some wires and brackets were exposed. A little disappointing for $200+k. But I can look past all that since it does so many other things well and for the awesome ride quality and waves it puts out. We decided we need the extra space, so it will be a ri245 for us. Now just trying to workout a price before we order.

Hey Chris, that is my old boat. I haven't been on the site for a while but just jumped on to look around. I am happy to see it's in good hands and your family is enjoying it. We owned it for 12 years and loved it. If we kept it I would have done the exhaust as well.

Troy Congrats on the new boat!!!

Well since the boat is out of commission for awhile, I was able to get the gator step installed. Took some back and forth with a couple of the templates, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The two biggest pieces arent perfect but I'm probably the only one that will notice. Got a couple air bubbles that I couldnt get out, took a razor and was able to get the air out and I think it'll be fine.

Ri230 will be amazing! Congrats.?

Get an Enzo sac. Fill it up on surf side. Get the rub rail touching the water on surf side. Most the passengers on surf side or back seat. No more than person in the bow. Set speed to 10.7 to 11.0. Enjoy.

Well I bought it. The sea trial went well. It is a sweet boat. I can’t wait to take it out and start surfing.

M650 of the new M6-650? These are worlds apart in sound quality and the M650 has been discontinued for about 3 seasons now. If FADE is desired, a 2 chnl amp will typically get you more wattage for less $$$. Or if there is a 3rd pair of speakers in the future, then go with a 4 chnl. JL has always built a solid product, so cant go wrong with them. However, Rockford is not a bad line either. My go-tos are Kicker and Wet Sounds. However, it may come down to waiting for inventory to come back in or taking whats available. Ive been using some Fusion Signature series and Roswell R1 amps lately. Seem solid. Traditional single DIN........Clarion M508.

Hey guys, first post, but I've already gotten a ton of info off this forum. Pretty much the reason I searched specifically for a Avalanche. Got this 2006 a couple months ago from a dealer in Canada. Was a bit of a risk, had to purchase before ever seeing it in person because the border is closed. Overall have found a few small surprises, but nothing to big. Its a well taken care of boat. I searched for about 4-5 months and think it was the best choice with what is on the market. Its the same boat as page 13 of this thread. An Infinity surf system is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. A FAE system is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed to eliminate the sideswipe. Will be placing a Gatorstep order soon. Will be ordering a new prop, it currently has the 817 Acme on it. Got the following maintenance completed and took it for its first drive Saturday to learn the boat. Its our first inboard, so a bit of a learning curve coming from I/O. Changed V Drive fluid Changed Transmission fluid, couldn't get it all out, so just added back in what I took out. Replaced both fuel filters Put in new impeller Greased V Drive shaft Greased rudder All new blue plugs I was unable to change the oil. The tube I have for the extractor pump is super small but wont get all the way down the dip stick, it hangs up on something, even the dipstick itself doesn't go in easily. The top of the dipstick has some sort of fitting on it. Please see picture. What do I need to accomplish this? Heres a few pics

We brought home our 2019 Fi25 last week and had our first session the day after. I consider myself lucky to score a session on a new toy the day after I get it. It doesn't always work out that way. One result of that quickness to rally kept me from having the opportunity to mount the rear view mirror which came with the boat. That proved to be a challenge as we tried adjust the surf settings without really being able to see the wave change. I am not a fan of mirrors clamped on the windshield anyway and wanted to try a rear view camera instead. That is the upgrade that this first post is about. We purchased a rear view camera and display on Amazon a few days before picking up the boat from NWBS in Oregon City. https://amzn.to/2DEgZTg I spent some time figuring out how and where to mount the display above the OEM dash in good view of the driver without blocking the view in front of the boat. Scratched my head a bit, took some patterns, did some CAD work and machined some parts shown below next to the display for the camera. Figured out where to place the camera on the back of the boat. Wire was run along the right side under the seats. Then continued to fit the CNC'd mounts to the dash. Happy these were a perfect fit right off the bat. This step usually requires some iteration of CAD tweaks and CNCing of more parts until the fit is right. A bit of skill and luck this time around. Used some 3M VHB to attach the mounts to the back of the display. This camera is designed with some straps that normally wrap around a rear view mirror. I trimmed those off and removed the pads that rest against the mirror surface. That is were my brackets attach to the back with the VHB. Then I mounted the camera on the dash. I will add some VHB between the mounts and dash to hold it in place. This was just a test fit to verify the position. Here is the view from the driver seat. Back of barn and CNC machine are shown in the image. We will have to see if this is angled right when on the water but think it looks pretty good. Note that the display is actually upside down. The camera is designed to be mounted above a license plate on the underside of the cover that normally is above them. Having the display upside down actually improved the wire routing which I still need to clean up a bit. So this all worked out for the better. This camera also has a built in front view cam which can 'see' through' the windshield but we won't be using that feature. It can record and do a host of other things which may be fun to try. We can actually record our sessions on a thumb drive so that might be cool. It's 1080P so resolution will be pretty good. Will post some videos when we get a chance to test it out. All the best, Hein

Weird, I THINK it was vapor lock. Someone said remove the gas cap and try to run it. It stays running! Hoping it stays this way now.

I started with 400 and worked my way up to 2000. Then polished with 3m finess it and buffed with Star brite marine polish.

https://twitter.com/ynhallak/status/1349508957417603072?s=21 Hahaha! Enjoy...

I ended up ordering a rubber strap wrench from Amazon. Worked like a charm! Performance Tool W54059 3/8" to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UDS83U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Not sure if this will be helpful to any of you, but attached are schematics and Bill of Materials for the install I did on my '07 Avy years back. I also included some pics. http://www.centurioncrew.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=13013 http://www.centurioncrew.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=12972 Also, I don't recall who asked, but earlier in the thread someone asked why Centurion used the Impeller pump to fill and aerator to drain instead of using impeller pumps to fill/drain each tank. This was a cost saving measure. They would use a single impeller pump with the sprinkler valve setup to fill, but that system doesn't allow for easy draining back through the sprinkler valve, so they used the aerator pumps to drain. In newer boats Centurion/Supreme uses multiple impeller pumps (one per bag/tank) to fill/drain through the same thru-hull. For example, my ZS232 has 8 Ballast Puppies each on its own dedicated thru-hull.

Welcome! First, the FS44 is a FANTASTIC surf boat and a good wakeboard boat. It was probably the best surfboat available until Centurion came out with the Ri's. 1) The H6 is more than adequate for an FS44 and sea level. 2) Most likely reason is your location. Centurions/Supremes are manufactured in Norther California whereas Mastercraft and Malibu are manufactured in Tennessee. 3) I would not say they're hard to learn, but hopefully the private party or dealer that you are buying from can take you out and give you a familiarization lesson. That would be helpful. There is also a ton of info/wave setup advice on this site. Truthfully, learning how to maneuver around docks and load the boat on the trailer will likely be more difficult as with these boats you have reduced steering control at low speeds and basically no control in reverse. When reversing, the boat will always pull to the right due to prop rotation and the fact that the rudder is behind the prop (not helping in reverse). There are some good videos you can find online to give you tips on docking/loading. 4) The deep-vee is more of a wakesurfing feature, but these boats can still throw a good wakeboard wake. I have never wakeboarded behind a FS44, but my guess is it will be weight sensitive side to side due to the deep-vee and have a wide wake. You shouldn't have a problem figuring out the weight distribution to clean up both sides though. I think CATS can help with this as well.

No, those blue plugs are only for the newer H5 & H6 engines. The thread and the size will not be right. If you are looking for replacement plugs, I think your best bet is too look at some of the NTP gas fittings that you can find at hardware stores/Lowes, etc. I think the 2 sizes on the ZR409 engine are 1/2" and 3/4". What is your goal, you looking for replacements or are you looking for something you can remove/re-install quicker without tools to make draining the water quicker? I would definitely not use plastic on this engine, the design on the H5/H6 is different which allows those blue plastic plugs to work.

If you want push button start that's one thing but to buy it just to be able to keep the stereo on when turning off the boat is the wrong reason and spending money where you don't need to. When I purchased my boat same thing happened every time I'd turn the ignition off the stereo would shut down. All I did was find the power wire that feed the stereo rocker switch and run it to the power block that is supplied by the batt. That way the rocker switch is powered whether the ignition is turned on or off and you can control the stereo and components with the rocker and not be dependent on ignition power.

Okay, this is going to sound ridiculous but it's true. I had the exact problem with my 2017 s238 and discovered a few others having the same problem. What we found is that the safety lanyard at the base of the throttle is SUPER sensitive to being bumped so when I was towing a goofy side rider with my body twisted to the right or came off throttle I would hit that switch VERY lightly with my knee/leg and everything would die. It was happening while towing and I had people run into the boat! Cwazy also had this problem and we both modified the safety lanyards on our boats so it couldn't be bumped. It has never happened again.

I've been saying that exact same thing about the wake plate. My buddy with the S238 was going to try out an older style plate, but he seems to be happy with the way he has it dialed in now. But that's just the regular side. Haven't seen the goofy side yet.

So, today was the day to finally get the boat on the water to test out the new A-Plate! The day started out ok, got the trailer hooked up with ease. Truck pulled the trailer to the lake just fine. Then it all went south from there. LOL. Tried to start the boat... deadish battery. No problem, I carry a booster pack! Dead too. Even though it worked to start my mother-inlaw's jeep yesterday. Ok. After asking countless other boaters including a very nice Enzo for help to no avail, FINALLY my wife noticed these two fishermen off the side of the ramp putting a car battery into their little aluminum boat with a tiny trawling motor. So they gladly let me borrow it to jump my boat. AND IT WORKED! So I thanked them profusely and we were on our way. Idled out the no wake zone, let her warm up, then checked out the wakeboard wake. Looked the same to me. Up next, goofy surf wave. Ballast pump got air locked. After messing about with it for 10 mins or so, that started working. Alright, here we go. My buddy lost out to rock paper scissors and had to go first. The water was DAMNCOLD! An actual temperature here in Canada. Anyway, he finally gets in and we're under way. but within about 30 seconds there's what feels like a fuel issue, a stutter of sorts. Then I notice the Vdrive light is flickering! NOOOOOO! So I shut it down, tried again, but same results. Drained ballast and idled back to the dock. Once we got home I texted Dreamer, Wiggles and Duramat to tell them my dilemma. All of whom got back to me almost instantly! Dura even went the extra mile to search out TotalPerformance's thread of changing the V-drive oil out! Came in extremely handy! So it turns out I only had about 400ml or less than 1/2 a quart of oil in there! So I followed Total's awesome thread and it's now full... Lets hope it doesn't have a bad leak. So far so good! ANYWAY!! Here's a picture of the wave we had for about 20 seconds! The spray has been SIGNIFICANTLY knocked down and this is with only 1 400lb bag on the rear seat and my wife sitting in the right spot. We usually run another 400 on the floor and even a FATBRICK on the swim grid to try and get rid of the wash. So all in all, the plate was a success, but the day was a nightmare. Although, in the grand scheme of things, even todays issues weren't THAT bad.

i know this is bringing up an old thread but have just done this on mine. had to remake the cup holder section to reposition the cup holders and to make room for the speaker. there is also a hole for the speakers cushion frame you just have to cut the vinyl, but the speaker is out there to get damaged by careless kids. in the cup holder holder area i feel is less likely to get damaged by a stray elbow or foot.