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From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:

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Hey Cliff, There is no wood in a 2005 Enzo. It is full fiberglass construction.

Update: The block to add an Air Chair to the Maximus tower does not need a separate angle adapter and fits just fine. So far it has worked terrific.

Able to check another small item off the list last night. Was having trouble getting the oil changed, no matter what I tried couldnt get the siphon tube down the dip stick tube. Finally figured out that the threads at the top of the dipstick fit a garden hose. Heres what I came up with, couple pumps and the oil started flowing. And after changing the filter a remote filter looks really appealing. Man what a pain. Used a couple plastic bags and was able to catch all the oil though, so no mess.

Thanks a bunch for all your advice guys. I decided the 2014 SV233 was my best option (newer, CATS, Ramfill, updated touchscreen, high altitude Acme 1847 prop, better looking exterior/interior) and made a deal today - HOORAY! The boat market in western Canada is much smaller and is crazy hot right now (as it turned out the 2012 SV233 I was considering also sold today) so I am thrilled to have secured a great surf boat now. The dealer agreed to give me first shot if any comparable Centurions came in on trade with 409 in the next few months. Many thanks to everyone on the Centurion Crew site for all the great posts - this is such a great resource.

Thanks for your perspective and advice on this. It is looking like pricing on used Centurion is universally (at least on the east coast) the same as you describe in TX. Definitely willing and able to go higher, not so certain I will have the opportunity. There are other very similar boats across state lines, so all is not lost. One thing I have read about here and other places is the importance dealer support and relationship, which is what makes me so concerned about the "vibe" of this interaction and what the future might hold if I end up buying this one. They're not the closest to me, but I hate to alienate anyone nonetheless. I'm in NC, but appreciate the offer for sure. I'll be spending a few early weekday mornings on the ramp when nobody is around to try to get my act together. Hopefully this will help me avoid or minimize the stage fright factor when a line of experienced folks are waiting for me to back down the ramp and launch.

Heres the deal, its mostly about surface area. Two 12's in a ported enclosure is nearly 4X the surface area as a single 12 in a sealer or free-air (infinite-baffle) setup. So you would definitely experience a reduction in overall bass output.

My 08 Avy listed. Just my wife in the boat.

Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha

take a look at page 68 in this doc. https://pcmengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/2016-EX343_ZR409_ZR450_XR550_XS550-Owners-Manual-min.pdf According to this, there are no block drains. only exhaust manifolds and a few hose removals.

Ya I also have my sub above the foot rest its a bazooka tube the big one it works well, when it goes I def planning on cutting one in I know its been done here before. My thought was just use the fiberglass as a box maybe add some poly stuffing might sounds like crap not sure could also port the box.

People have cut a whole in that area and added a sub. However, it’s relatively thick fiberglass and not very easy to cut. I used to have a 2007 Avy, and my sub was on top of that area and worked out great there for whatever that’s worth.

Yes, I went with the 316 stainless. The 2 1/2” was a perfect fit. I very happy with the new setup.

The 396 hrs for an 8 yr old boat that has been well maintained wouldn’t scare me away. That said, the FS44 only has 142hrs for $2k-ish more.

I'll take some pictures this weekend. Yeah, tons of rain here in western Oregon, snowed on me yesterday. Lake time is definitely delayed from previous years.

The Enzo 233 was one of the best surf boats on the market when new. The Enzo hull does better with a lean (all of the ballast on the surf side full and only a little weight on the off side) than filling everything using surf tabs like the newer boats. 1) PnP are the bags on top of the Ramfill tanks. They are pump fed. 2) I've never surfed an Enzo with surf tabs, but as previously stated, my understanding is that your best wave is going to be with the old traditional lean. Using surf tabs you should be able to switch side to side, but honestly, once you've done that a few times the novelty wears off and you won't do it. We messed with that a few times when we first bought our boat, but don't mess with it at all anymore. 3) My understanding is that with CATS you can make a pretty good goofy wave.

Nevr-Dull always worked well for me. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding-Polish-5-oz/15125758

I'm not sure which latches came on your boat, but my '07 Avalanche and my '19 ZS232 both had/have these: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/surface-mount-cam-latch-black-with-chrome-handle

We had an original all yellow(!) 2004 Enzo SV230, purchased new in spring of ‘06. We loved it and had until 2014, when kids had gotten car keys and no longer wanted to hang out with Mom Dad LOL. I had the honor of being a driver for the 2008 World WakeSurf Championship, hosted here in Nashville. I was active on the “Crew”, and even ran across my Centurioncrew.com T-shirt the other day (like new!). Long story short, our sons have gotten married and returned to the area, we have other friends that appreciate lake life, so…we decided to get a boat! Bought a beautiful 2020 Vi24 maintained well by the PO. We are so stoked and so happy to be back in the Centurion family! Pics are here (hopefully): https://link.shutterfly.com/idR62Ana7rb

Depends how far you want to go up under the seat, my custom starboard sac would work. You can add more to the finger if you want to go farther up under the seat.

As you probably already searched and found, this fault is Intake Air Temperature higher than expected (>200 deg F). Is the fault persistent after allowing some cool down time? What boat/year/model/engine are you working with? I would check the spark arrestor for any type of debris/blockage, clean the spark arrestor while I was at it, then test. If the problem persisted, replace the IAT sensor. I also found this. See page 46: http://www.wakeflot.ru/doc/PCM_Diagnostic_manual.pdf

dimensions for my typhoon are 10" height, 26" width under the passenger seat, so you can start there on wakemakers' site and get whatever length you need. check here, for instance they have a 50"L x 25"W x 10"H which gives you 500lbs, or a 60" long for 610lbs, or 70" long for 710lbs.

Thanks jtryon, and bigcatpt, I will Upload some pictures in a day or two. Maybe you guys can tell me what is worth keeping. Thanks

The hull is the same through all those years

I’m also interested in this mod

If you have no interest in fixing it and keeping it, I agree with you that I wouldn't want to deal with trying to fix it and flip it. If you can take it and the $47k, there is some value in the boat for sure. There are plenty of people that aren't afraid of a project and would take it off your hands for $5k-$10k or so. As @jtryon suggested, the motor alone has pretty good value. I also agree with @Bigcatpt that it's a good idea to take this question to the Facebook group. You might even find a buyer there... Do you know if the title is "salvaged"? I know it works differently with cars than it does boats. Cars are immediately deemed "salvaged" when the insurance totals it and pays you out for it regardless of the extent of the damage. It is not exactly that way with boats. For example, I bought my old Avalanche from a boat repair shop that had bought it from an insurance company after it was "totaled" and the previous buyer was paid out. The story I got was, the previous owner didn't have the trailer coupler properly connected to the ball, turned a corner leaving his neighborhood, trailer came off ball causing damage to the trailer, breaking the windshield and tower, and cracking the hull above the rubrail in the rear by the engine vents. The title was not salvaged on that boat. That said, I also agree with Bigcat that if the title is salvaged, obviously the value and potential buyer pool are reduced. But, if it is not salvaged for some strange reason, that could make it more appealing to someone who isn't afraid of the project... I did a quick search on 2007-2010 Enzo's on Boattrader and your boat in good condition with a trailer is worth low $50k-ish, so $47k and you take the boat isn't too bad of a deal.

i would definitely take the boat if you're essentially getting it for free plus your payout--you can probably have someone lined up to buy it for $5-10K within a week. was the motor pickled as soon as it was pulled from the water, i.e. got all the water out, no water in the oil after running it afterwards? if the motor checks out and has good compression still, that's huge. can you take your $47k, keep the boat yourself and drop it off at a shop to redo the important items after shopping around for better prices? you should be able to replace all the important stuff like gauges, perfect pass, etc. with new ones just as a peace of mind and still come out well on top.

Mine is a 2019 450, not a ZR409, but the same 6.0L block. Mine takes 5 quarts. It wouldn't be a terrible idea to fill with 4.5 quarts and take the extra 1/2 quart out with you next time you take the boat out. On the water is the most accurate reading...

Nice work Chris!

Thanks for the tips guys. Following the advice here (starboard tanks full, port side empty, people sitting the starboard side, trim all the way down) produced a much better wave on the starboard side. Not quite as large as on the port side or as clean, but pretty close. Before the adjustments there was no surf-able wave on the starboard side. The goofy surfer is happy.

Well I bought it. The sea trial went well. It is a sweet boat. I can’t wait to take it out and start surfing.

Hi everyone, I've been watching this thread since I picked up a 94 Lapoint last summer. Actually looking at photos on this thread I think it might have been posted a page back. Small world. Anyways I just wanted to say thanks for all the good info on here and I'm excited to get out and put some hours on the boat this summer.

Thanks Troy. I called Centurion today and they said the factory wiring system was not working with the original ballast puppy and new DPDT switch because there is a relay in there and is really not designed for the reversible pump. They also said there also could be issues because the wire running to the pump is also connected to the wire for the sprinkler valve (although I had already disconnected and removed that). Anyway, they said to run new wire to the pump (like you said) and also to the terminal under the helm and add a 30 amp inline breaker. I guess they are not confident in that breaker panel after all. Anyway, I ordered all the necessary equipment from Wakemakers today. I may try connecting the system to that terminal under the helm which then runs to the battery with heavy gauge wire. I did buy enough wire to make it all the way to the battery because I like the idea of connecting to the house battery to allow filling and draining without running the engine. So tomorrow, I will install the new Johnson Pump and do all the plumbing and next week, I will take care of the wiring. Thanks for all your help.

I used the house battery. I can fill the ballast while the engine is off and not worry about the boat not starting.

Nice! im glad that’s going to work out for you.

It’s just an access point to get to speaker wires, tower bolts, upholstery panel bolts, etc. you’ll appreciate it if you ever have to do anything like tighten tower bolts or remove an upholstery panel for some reason.

10.9-11.2 for the speed. We run at 11.2. Here are a few good videos for wave setup.

I don’t have direct experience with either of these boats, but there is a fair amount to info on the S211 wave/wave setup on this site. They can throw out a really impressive wave with a little tweaking, extra ballast. Supremes are made in the Central Valley of CA. That’s probably why they are not very popular in NY, but they are a legit boat brand made on the same factory line as Centurions (until the new Supreme plant in GA opens). If surfing is your top priority, I would suggest a ZS212? The ZS is the new flagship line of Supreme. I own the larger version, the ZS232, and I would put the ZS surf wave up against any other boat in the market segment.

I’m glad you figured it out. I had been following this thread, but unfortunately had nothing valuable to add.

check for scoring on the water pump when you have the impeller changed. if you feel ridges in the intake side of the pump where the impeller spins, have that half of the pump replaced otherwise it may not prime at idle and you will overheat.

2019 Supreme ZS232 The #1 feature of this boat is the surf wave. It creates a massive and quite adjustable wave that is just as good on the goofy side as it is on the regular side right out of the box (no lead or additional sacs needed). It’s also very roomy, very deep, and with the vast majority of the ballast being subfloor it has a ton of storage. Like all Centurions and Supremes it handles rough water very well. Build quality is another key factor. The Supreme does not at all feel like an entry level tow boat. I know some prefer the touch screens and fancier user interface, but I like the simple UI on this boat. My wife is not a very techy person and she is comfortable with the screen and controls. I do my own maintenance, so the maintainability of the PCM power pack is a plus as well. Simple maintenance like oil/filter changes are much easier than my old Centurion Avalanche with a Merc Black Scorpion. The one thing I would put in the “con” column is that it is weight sensitive. When you’re running across the lake with empty ballast it can get a pretty good lean going if the people weight is not evenly distributed. I either ask someone to move or deploy the surf tab on the low side to level it out.

If you're looking to keep it reasonable, you could build a new distribution centre off of your existing pump using always closed valves, some simple wiring, and extra switches on the bank below your throttle. I replaced my sprinkler valves with 12 Volte Brass Always ($25 each on Amazon I think) Closed Valves. While the wiring was there already for each of the ballast zones/pump/valves, 12 volt wiring is pretty easy to run between your switches and the valves. For venting, I used some simple check valves on the vent lines which helped when I was pumping out the bags - helped to create a bit of an air lock in the bags. Here's the link for my project: https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/ballast-projects/ballast-solenoid-upgrade-distribution-r161/ For pumping out the water, you'd do two more similar 12 volt pumps like the one shown above. I think for both you'd use those double throw switches. Drilling vent lines and pump out holes above the water line is pretty easy - just use masking tape to measure it all out and then drill your hole with a holesaw in reverse and take your time. Fittings are easy to find. If I was upgrading it all again without adding extra pumps, I'd look at up grading my main pump for something with higher volume and then increase the tubing size to the valves, 1" valves, and 1" tubes to each of the bags to help improve filing time. You could like go larger than that depending on your through hull size..

Here is what I would do. Change the switch to a DPDT and dedicate the existing impeller pump to the center tank. Then install a new thru-hull to supply 2 new reversible impeller pumps, one for each new rear locker sac. May be more then what you were looking to do, but its a simple, effective and user friendly.

Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.

Okay, this is going to sound ridiculous but it's true. I had the exact problem with my 2017 s238 and discovered a few others having the same problem. What we found is that the safety lanyard at the base of the throttle is SUPER sensitive to being bumped so when I was towing a goofy side rider with my body twisted to the right or came off throttle I would hit that switch VERY lightly with my knee/leg and everything would die. It was happening while towing and I had people run into the boat! Cwazy also had this problem and we both modified the safety lanyards on our boats so it couldn't be bumped. It has never happened again.

If you want more power you need to go with at least the 450. The 409 and the 343 have almost identical torque curves which is what moves a boat. Granted the 409 makes more horse power but at an RPM range that is not used in a wake boat.

Thanks guys! We are at 7500 elevation and altitude HP loss along with a heavily weighted boat are the real issue here. I've tried swapping props but do not want to trade off top end speed for hole shot. Looking for alternatives and this one seemed pretty good.

Thanks in advance for reading this. I have a 97 ski centurion that I am reupholstering and I need to remove the drivers seat. It sits on a black platform just barely inches off the ground. There is a slider bar that lets you slide the seat forward and backwards while you are sitting in it. No matter where the seat is slid it is impossible to access some of the screws that bolt the platform to the boat deck. I have no clue how to remove this seat! It is driving me crazy! There must be an easy way to get this seat to slide off from the platform. It would be impossible for the factory guys to install these seats otherwise. Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help is helpful.