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From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha

Alright lets all show our Centurions. Here is my 2008 Centurion Avalanche C4 Just picked it up Friday

Honestly the holes are inside the transom they don't pass into the hull so no leak would occur so don't think I did anything but sure throw little marine sealant on or silicone if it makes ya warm and fuzzy wont hurt anything.

Ya I also have my sub above the foot rest its a bazooka tube the big one it works well, when it goes I def planning on cutting one in I know its been done here before. My thought was just use the fiberglass as a box maybe add some poly stuffing might sounds like crap not sure could also port the box.

Hey @Avy06: how is this working for you so far? Our platform bracket busted on Monday, so I'm about to pull the trigger on the Alloy Marine ones for our 2007 Typhoon. Did the new 2-1/2" bolts work well with the thicker transom plate, or did you need something longer? I'm assuming you went with the 316 stainless instead of 18-8, but if you have any more details to share, it would be greatly appreciated.

Hit up fresh air exhaust FAE. They make stainless steel muffler replacements. I just put one on my boat.

was the IAC valve replaced? i might start there, there's a thread on it on this site showing normal symptoms, so if those were what you were experiencing prior to the no-start the IAC valve could be the culprit.

Awesome upgrades. Great job on all the work.

The 396 hrs for an 8 yr old boat that has been well maintained wouldn’t scare me away. That said, the FS44 only has 142hrs for $2k-ish more.

I'll take some pictures this weekend. Yeah, tons of rain here in western Oregon, snowed on me yesterday. Lake time is definitely delayed from previous years.

The Enzo 233 was one of the best surf boats on the market when new. The Enzo hull does better with a lean (all of the ballast on the surf side full and only a little weight on the off side) than filling everything using surf tabs like the newer boats. 1) PnP are the bags on top of the Ramfill tanks. They are pump fed. 2) I've never surfed an Enzo with surf tabs, but as previously stated, my understanding is that your best wave is going to be with the old traditional lean. Using surf tabs you should be able to switch side to side, but honestly, once you've done that a few times the novelty wears off and you won't do it. We messed with that a few times when we first bought our boat, but don't mess with it at all anymore. 3) My understanding is that with CATS you can make a pretty good goofy wave.

Hey Adam, Short answer, yes. You'll also want to add sacrificial anodes to your underwater gear. see link below: https://www.piratescave.co.uk/blogs/blog/what-are-anodes-on-a-boat-used-for/#:~:text=Boat anodes are an essential,- aluminium%2C magnesium and zinc. In addition to flushing the engine, I would thoroughly clean the underwater gear and trailer after each use in salt water. You really don't need to add the fresh water line to be honest, you could do the same with a Fake-a-Lake. https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-50073761-Seasense-In-Board-Flusher/dp/B002L557KK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2SMCFYTWXYMHZ&keywords=fake+a+lake&qid=1670249412&sprefix=fake+a+lake%2Caps%2C407&sr=8-4 You probably already know, but running your boat in salt water will significantly devalue it to most potential future buyers if/when you decide to sell. I hope that helps. Best of luck!

Hi, Has anyone installed mechanical stereo volume controls? Looking for dedicated buttons or rotating knob as I find the touch screen only volume controls less than ideal. Boat: 2021 Centurion VI22 Stereo: Centurion CHAMP Audio Package w/1 pair BLACK Pro Rev10 Wet Sounds Tower Spkrs, Integrated ICE Stereo, AM/FM USB On-Screen Controls, 8" BLACK Interior Spkrs and 12" Sub Thanks!

Yes - devise is the BT-RS. The headunit is the supreme factory all in one unit. It controls everything. There is not a "stand alone" radio headunit on the boat. The Iphone connects to the supreme headunit and basically all music is played from the phone. On the phone itself, i can control song selection, play/pause, and skip. I can NOT control volume on the phone. The BT-RS is connected to the phone and basically allows me to do the same. Play/Pause and skip track - but no volume control. The touch screen headunit allows me to do everything. Zone control, volume control, and pause play skip tracks. I can NOT connect the BT RS straight to the headunit via bluetooth and i cannot find an aux port to physically connect to the headunit. The latter is what i was hoping for in order to control the master volume. I actually called supreme to ask and was told that these new all in one units did not have an aux option. So for now going to leave it how we have it unless there is a creative way to override it and control volume from the BT RS. Im just not much of a touch screen person, especially when under way. Its not an issue, just personal preference.

I have no such issues like above.. was just searching for Avalanche info and came across this thread. Much thanks to you @Dan gib for following through on these threads and posting. Finding a solution to the problem is helpful to many, even if it feels likes its on deaf ears. Kudos my man!

I'm not sure which latches came on your boat, but my '07 Avalanche and my '19 ZS232 both had/have these: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/surface-mount-cam-latch-black-with-chrome-handle

@volzalum is spot on. Honestly, you'd be better off scraping that whole sprinkler valve setup as well as the aerator drain valves and installing reversible (Ballast Puppy/Johnson/Wakemaker) pumps for each ballast location.

Your tower is a Double Up tower. Check greatlakesskipper. They might have a factory cover for a good price. I was able to get 2 covers from them for my previous boat (2007 Avalanche with Double Up).

Thank you for the reply! Replaced the valves in the back and updated the computer and we were off to surfing! Can't thank #boardco enough for their help! Still get some ghosting but nothing like before. Still have to address the the annoying minute beep but will order a reader for that. Have you or anyone else had grounding issues with this year boat? When I flip my toggle to navigation everything turns on as if I push ignition button....not sure if that normal or not? Again thanks for the reply this boat is all new to me!

This is the dimensions of my Avy sac for the port side for my 03 Avy. Main 22H X 24W X 52L Arm 10H X 24W X 62L You will want to place your fill, empty, vent holes according to your pump set up. Main… LXWXH = 27456 = 118.857 gallons = 992.46 pounds Arm.. LXWXH = 14880 = 64.416 gallons = 537.87 pounds Total cubic inches = 42336 = 183.272 gallons = 1530 pounds *Water 8.35 pounds per gallon

Depends how far you want to go up under the seat, my custom starboard sac would work. You can add more to the finger if you want to go farther up under the seat.

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.

the priming thing happened with mine when i was doing my first impeller change after buying the boat. the PO didn't use it much in the 5 years he owned it so must have never changed it, and the old one wore a ring where it rides against the pump housing. i see you already installed the plate that goes between the two halves of the housing to fix the issue when you install a new impeller. call Steve Buttrick at C&S Marine Pumps. i got my impeller from him, and when i went to install it he had included a note in the box that stated this exact issue being common for the Merc motors. super good guy to work with a he was a fraction of the cost of others that i was shopping around. i bet he can talk through what it would take to get yours fixed. C & S Marine Pumps Inc 149 s Highway 97 Cantonment , Florida 32533 Cell (850) 380-1731

I took it by the dealer and they immediately said the hull failed. The boats headed back to the factory.

It takes the Diacom software to clear it. Post in one of the Facebook groups and see if there are any members nearby that have the software and adapter to connect to the PCM engine.

Why not consider the 8" Icon-8 over the 8" Rev-8? Volume can be controlled by the volume dial, but the larger speaker will deliver better sound quality.

Thanks Troy, just got off the phone with perfect pass and have one on the way!

To my knowledge (I had an ‘07 Avy C4) the floor plan never changed.

they should be the same as long as you're getting C4 versus the walkthrough template. as far as alternatives, i like aquamarinedeck.com, they're cheaper and still great quality, i'm just not sure they have a template to pick off the site. worth emailing them to get a price though.

I have a 2021 and although I have not have it in the water yet I have played around with it in the driveway. My plate moves more than 5 times (0-25% in 5% increments is how I understood what you said). Mine moves basically 20 times, moves every click of the trim lever. 5% each click, 0-100%.

Thank @jtryon and @Troy. R I got the FLY HIGH FATSAC 650 CENTER LOCKER / REAR SEAT BAG & SUPA TSUNAMI PUMP (650 LB) and it fits great.

Seems like a bad engine speed sensor based on the description. Strange that it only manifested once ballast was full and zero off was engaged though.

That's going to be hard to find. But you should be able to find the manual for your engine. Sorry.

That's exactly what I ended up doing after a days worth of trial and error. Listing seems to help with the size of the wave more than the tabs. I dialed a starboard wave that was very surfable but was unable to produce a clean lip on the port side for my regular riders. Thanks for your input

@Bigcatpt knows his stuff when it comes to setting these boats up. His ballast build posts and insight were a big part of my ballast design/build.

The hull is the same through all those years

we got our RI230 and by night with the small white interior lights where dazzling my blue eyes. Directly i decided to do a small fixe. If someone has the same issue i m more than happy to share the file to 3d print those little covers. text me if you would like to have the .STL file or the G code for the 3d printer Hello everyone

I've been a Nautique owner for the past 15 years and I decided to give Centurion a try. As such, I just bought a used 2017 RI257. I love the boat so far, as does the wife, however, it would be great to add the top side hatch to the pedestal behind the driver seat that the 2020+ RI's have. Has anyone done this to their pre-20 RI? Or at least, does anyone know if the pedestal is the same between a pre-20 and 20+ RI257? P.S. I live in the Reno/Tahoe area and would love to connect with some other Centurion owners... -Bill

If you're looking to keep it reasonable, you could build a new distribution centre off of your existing pump using always closed valves, some simple wiring, and extra switches on the bank below your throttle. I replaced my sprinkler valves with 12 Volte Brass Always ($25 each on Amazon I think) Closed Valves. While the wiring was there already for each of the ballast zones/pump/valves, 12 volt wiring is pretty easy to run between your switches and the valves. For venting, I used some simple check valves on the vent lines which helped when I was pumping out the bags - helped to create a bit of an air lock in the bags. Here's the link for my project: https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/ballast-projects/ballast-solenoid-upgrade-distribution-r161/ For pumping out the water, you'd do two more similar 12 volt pumps like the one shown above. I think for both you'd use those double throw switches. Drilling vent lines and pump out holes above the water line is pretty easy - just use masking tape to measure it all out and then drill your hole with a holesaw in reverse and take your time. Fittings are easy to find. If I was upgrading it all again without adding extra pumps, I'd look at up grading my main pump for something with higher volume and then increase the tubing size to the valves, 1" valves, and 1" tubes to each of the bags to help improve filing time. You could like go larger than that depending on your through hull size..

An Avy can throw an awesome wave. Make sure the connections are good on the PP. Are you planning on listing the boat, a suck gate or tabs? I list mine and love my wave. Others like the suckgate (fuel hog) and others like adding tabs. If you have to swap sides alot, I recommend the infinity tabs. If you ride the same side all the time, list it and save the $$$. For my listed wave I do the factory center, 1500lb custom sac and about another 200-300 lbs on the seat. the wave is tall, long and has good push. Just a driver maybe a kid or 2. I also have a custom a-plate. Since we only surf goofy, my whole system is designed for that side. I've done write ups on here about my ballast system and plate. Welcome to the Crew!!!!

If you want push button start that's one thing but to buy it just to be able to keep the stereo on when turning off the boat is the wrong reason and spending money where you don't need to. When I purchased my boat same thing happened every time I'd turn the ignition off the stereo would shut down. All I did was find the power wire that feed the stereo rocker switch and run it to the power block that is supplied by the batt. That way the rocker switch is powered whether the ignition is turned on or off and you can control the stereo and components with the rocker and not be dependent on ignition power.

Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.

what i found out this weekend is with the listed (100% rear bag 100% port side QF at 10.4) is good for skim boards, but not so good for boards like the Liquid force Fish style board. For some reason i can ride all day long with the skim style without the rope, but on the Fish i cant even let go. I think the speed is to slow for the longer board. Dont ask me why, cause i dont know but i just ordered a new surf style board should be here in the next week or so and ill update to see if that one rides better and slower or faster speeds.

2008 Avy. 330hp Black Scorpion Oil Filter - 35-866340K01 Fuel Filter -35-802893T Impeller - (47)862232A2 In-Line Fuel Filter - 35-864572 Belt - 57-865615-005 Exhaust Gasket - 27-33395 Spark Plug - 12607235 Or AC Delco 41-993 Rotor - 13524T12 Cap - 805759T1 Plug Wires - 863656A03 Cap and rotor kit (Sierra) - 18-5273 Oil - 4.5 Quarts 25W-40 NMMA FC-W V-Drive oil - HD-30 PSS Shaft seal - PY1HG11X17 PSS SHAFT SEAL 1-1\8" That's all I got.

If you want more power you need to go with at least the 450. The 409 and the 343 have almost identical torque curves which is what moves a boat. Granted the 409 makes more horse power but at an RPM range that is not used in a wake boat.

Thanks guys! We are at 7500 elevation and altitude HP loss along with a heavily weighted boat are the real issue here. I've tried swapping props but do not want to trade off top end speed for hole shot. Looking for alternatives and this one seemed pretty good.

Thanks in advance for reading this. I have a 97 ski centurion that I am reupholstering and I need to remove the drivers seat. It sits on a black platform just barely inches off the ground. There is a slider bar that lets you slide the seat forward and backwards while you are sitting in it. No matter where the seat is slid it is impossible to access some of the screws that bolt the platform to the boat deck. I have no clue how to remove this seat! It is driving me crazy! There must be an easy way to get this seat to slide off from the platform. It would be impossible for the factory guys to install these seats otherwise. Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help is helpful.

adding grease to the rudder helps it seal out water it will do nothing for hard steering.If the boat steering wheel does not spin with one finger when out of the water it is time for a new cable.................H