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From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:

Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha

Alright lets all show our Centurions. Here is my 2008 Centurion Avalanche C4 Just picked it up Friday

We talked about this in the "Older Centurion" thread. Do you have a Tru-Trac or a Falcon? If yes, post a pic or multiple pics of it here. Have a good work around or modification, post it here. Questions? Post them here. I have some old brochures, I'll post them up this evening. Here's a pic of my 1993 open bow Falcon.

There are actually 4 of them in your boat. 2 large and 2 smaller forward. You can try calling centurion. They might be able to point you to a vendor. Otherwise, you’ll have to make them. I’d use plastic as thick as the U-channel on the floor will hold. I’d also reinforce them with U-channel aluminum on the engine side. 209-384-0255

I haven’t heard much in terms using a wake shaper on an Enzo. My opinion is that you probably don’t need it. That Enzo hull likes to lean. Start by filling your Enzo sac on the port side, keeping the starboard empty, and running at 10.5 mph. You’ll probably end up needing more weight, but that will give you a good baseline to start from. Adding weight to the rear/under the port side seats will make the wave bigger. You can play with the speed too (I wouldn’t recommend over about 11), but if I recall correctly, 10.5 is what most of us were running with Avys/Enzos back in the day.

Maybe something like this? https://www.cutandcouple.com/product/material-suction-and-discharge-hose/?attribute_pa_hose-i-d=4&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoeemBhCfARIsADR2QCsnNVPBAdd86cnrf4nd568rTae4yZNneciL7hMEgsLSC9F14A-YVtsaAh5CEALw_wcB

Ya I also have my sub above the foot rest its a bazooka tube the big one it works well, when it goes I def planning on cutting one in I know its been done here before. My thought was just use the fiberglass as a box maybe add some poly stuffing might sounds like crap not sure could also port the box.

People have cut a whole in that area and added a sub. However, it’s relatively thick fiberglass and not very easy to cut. I used to have a 2007 Avy, and my sub was on top of that area and worked out great there for whatever that’s worth.

Yes, I went with the 316 stainless. The 2 1/2” was a perfect fit. I very happy with the new setup.

Hey @Avy06: how is this working for you so far? Our platform bracket busted on Monday, so I'm about to pull the trigger on the Alloy Marine ones for our 2007 Typhoon. Did the new 2-1/2" bolts work well with the thicker transom plate, or did you need something longer? I'm assuming you went with the 316 stainless instead of 18-8, but if you have any more details to share, it would be greatly appreciated.

was the IAC valve replaced? i might start there, there's a thread on it on this site showing normal symptoms, so if those were what you were experiencing prior to the no-start the IAC valve could be the culprit.

Awesome upgrades. Great job on all the work.

Come to think of it, I think you’re right. The change was ‘23, not ‘22. It happened late last year, but they were ‘23 models. I’m not sure what all of the charges are, the dealer should have more detail on that, but either way, the ‘21 is a legit boat. Especially if you’re getting it for $15K less than a new S220.

Both boats are great options, and neither one needs extra weight to throw a second to none surf wave. Base on what you’ve said, assuming they’re similarly optioned, I’d go Fi23 all day. The Fi23 is a foot longer, will have better tech, and the Centurions have slightly higher grade vinyl than the Supremes. All that said, I should also note that the Fi23 was redesigned for ‘22, so the ‘21 isn’t the most recent model of the Fi if that matters to you. The ‘21 and ‘22 both have the opti-v hull.

It’s not possible to upgrade the valves, just look for a 2022 or newer. At lower elevation the 6.0 HO will move that boat fine. If you ride with a big crew or run lead, or plan on going up in elevation Id go ZZ6, keep in mind the ZZ6 will be the more desirable mill and better for resale down the road. 2907 prop or similar will be necessary with the 6.0.

Hi guys, So, i installed a wetsounds rocker remote control inorder to have a physical button instead of being committed to the touch screen. What i was really hoping to be able to do is control the master volume. My main question - does the supreme 2021/2022 headunit have an auxiliary that can be plugged into? Right now i have my device installed and setup on bluetooth. The bluetooth connects to my phone and allows me to control pause/play and change songs forward or back. I cannot control the volume with this type of set up. I was hoping to connect directly through the aux and hopefully be a able to control the master volume. Worst case scenario, the current set up allows me to easily hit pause if a rider falls down and we want to back off the radio or skip a track in a playlist.

It looks like a ProFlight Swoop tower. They were very common among the wakeboat manufacturers based in the CA Central Valley in the early-mid 2000’s.

I owned a 2015 FS33 until last year that we bought brand new and I only had a valve stick on me 1x (400+hrs). My screen went out the very first year I had it, it was covered under warranty and I didn't have any other issues. I LOVED this boat.

The Enzo 233 was one of the best surf boats on the market when new. The Enzo hull does better with a lean (all of the ballast on the surf side full and only a little weight on the off side) than filling everything using surf tabs like the newer boats. 1) PnP are the bags on top of the Ramfill tanks. They are pump fed. 2) I've never surfed an Enzo with surf tabs, but as previously stated, my understanding is that your best wave is going to be with the old traditional lean. Using surf tabs you should be able to switch side to side, but honestly, once you've done that a few times the novelty wears off and you won't do it. We messed with that a few times when we first bought our boat, but don't mess with it at all anymore. 3) My understanding is that with CATS you can make a pretty good goofy wave.

Nevr-Dull always worked well for me. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding-Polish-5-oz/15125758

Had to do the same thing with my 07 Avalanche. Ended up costing 6 grand, but the guy had to basically rebuild all the seats. Foam was toast all the way through. If yours aren't in the horrible shape mine were in, the upholstery shop should have an easier time replicating yours. I was the last job this guy was doing before retiring and moving - talk about a going away gift.

I'm not sure which latches came on your boat, but my '07 Avalanche and my '19 ZS232 both had/have these: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/surface-mount-cam-latch-black-with-chrome-handle

We had an original all yellow(!) 2004 Enzo SV230, purchased new in spring of ‘06. We loved it and had until 2014, when kids had gotten car keys and no longer wanted to hang out with Mom Dad LOL. I had the honor of being a driver for the 2008 World WakeSurf Championship, hosted here in Nashville. I was active on the “Crew”, and even ran across my Centurioncrew.com T-shirt the other day (like new!). Long story short, our sons have gotten married and returned to the area, we have other friends that appreciate lake life, so…we decided to get a boat! Bought a beautiful 2020 Vi24 maintained well by the PO. We are so stoked and so happy to be back in the Centurion family! Pics are here (hopefully): https://link.shutterfly.com/idR62Ana7rb

Depends how far you want to go up under the seat, my custom starboard sac would work. You can add more to the finger if you want to go farther up under the seat.

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

the priming thing happened with mine when i was doing my first impeller change after buying the boat. the PO didn't use it much in the 5 years he owned it so must have never changed it, and the old one wore a ring where it rides against the pump housing. i see you already installed the plate that goes between the two halves of the housing to fix the issue when you install a new impeller. call Steve Buttrick at C&S Marine Pumps. i got my impeller from him, and when i went to install it he had included a note in the box that stated this exact issue being common for the Merc motors. super good guy to work with a he was a fraction of the cost of others that i was shopping around. i bet he can talk through what it would take to get yours fixed. C & S Marine Pumps Inc 149 s Highway 97 Cantonment , Florida 32533 Cell (850) 380-1731

I took it by the dealer and they immediately said the hull failed. The boats headed back to the factory.

Hey Jason, Yes, my understanding is that deploying the Asymmetrical plate downward will help clean up the goofy wave. I had an ‘07 Avy (similar running surface) before my current boat and I had a custom Asymmetrical plate fab’ed for it. The cleanest goofy wave I could get was with the plate deployed beyond 50%. The FAE will not only reduce CO2, but will reduce engine/exhaust noise. Some have said they can create a little bit of spray, but it’s negligible.

As you probably already searched and found, this fault is Intake Air Temperature higher than expected (>200 deg F). Is the fault persistent after allowing some cool down time? What boat/year/model/engine are you working with? I would check the spark arrestor for any type of debris/blockage, clean the spark arrestor while I was at it, then test. If the problem persisted, replace the IAT sensor. I also found this. See page 46: http://www.wakeflot.ru/doc/PCM_Diagnostic_manual.pdf

It takes the Diacom software to clear it. Post in one of the Facebook groups and see if there are any members nearby that have the software and adapter to connect to the PCM engine.

You can probably get this made by SendCutSend. They are a site that you send a cad to and they will machine whatever you like.

I have a 2021 and although I have not have it in the water yet I have played around with it in the driveway. My plate moves more than 5 times (0-25% in 5% increments is how I understood what you said). Mine moves basically 20 times, moves every click of the trim lever. 5% each click, 0-100%.

That is not normal. Mine travels from 0 - 100 moving at every 5% increment. I actually set it to 45 at the most aggressive, and usually am about 55-60 for my normal surf style setting. My wife prefers skim so she likes it mellow like 90-100.

Thank @jtryon and @Troy. R I got the FLY HIGH FATSAC 650 CENTER LOCKER / REAR SEAT BAG & SUPA TSUNAMI PUMP (650 LB) and it fits great.

You should be able to get to a spectrum gel kit color to get what you need. See what you can find here: https://spectrumcolor-com.3dcartstores.com/Gel-Coat-Search_c_7.html

Hi Shane, I think this might be the one I used (now called a 650# sac: https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-rear-seat-sac.html But like @jtryon said, you just need a sac that is 10 x 26 x length from rear locker to observer seat.

Thanks jtryon, and bigcatpt, I will Upload some pictures in a day or two. Maybe you guys can tell me what is worth keeping. Thanks

since you're halfway there, i'd just leave the tanks out and add ballast bags that fill the rear lockers. add two thru-hulls and pumps on their own switches to fill those new bags, and use the existing pump just for the center tank. that will make everything less complicated and give you better fill times. yours probably has what's referred to as a sprinkler valve, if you want to search here for more info on it. most guys just rip it out and upgrade it though.

@Bigcatpt knows his stuff when it comes to setting these boats up. His ballast build posts and insight were a big part of my ballast design/build.

The hull is the same through all those years

I’m also interested in this mod

I can’t contribute much to this convo, but to second what Troy said, my dealer also told me the ZS throws a better surf wave then the FI. Could have something to do with the Fi 21/23’s 32” of draft vs 36” of the supreme and other centurions. We were sold on the style and looks of the ZS, wife and I both love it, the lower price also helps.

13-year-old thread brought back to life, wow! since it's bumped up, there's a great thread on this site called "winterized my black scorpion" with everything a scorpion owner needs to know on proper winterization.

If you're looking to keep it reasonable, you could build a new distribution centre off of your existing pump using always closed valves, some simple wiring, and extra switches on the bank below your throttle. I replaced my sprinkler valves with 12 Volte Brass Always ($25 each on Amazon I think) Closed Valves. While the wiring was there already for each of the ballast zones/pump/valves, 12 volt wiring is pretty easy to run between your switches and the valves. For venting, I used some simple check valves on the vent lines which helped when I was pumping out the bags - helped to create a bit of an air lock in the bags. Here's the link for my project: https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/ballast-projects/ballast-solenoid-upgrade-distribution-r161/ For pumping out the water, you'd do two more similar 12 volt pumps like the one shown above. I think for both you'd use those double throw switches. Drilling vent lines and pump out holes above the water line is pretty easy - just use masking tape to measure it all out and then drill your hole with a holesaw in reverse and take your time. Fittings are easy to find. If I was upgrading it all again without adding extra pumps, I'd look at up grading my main pump for something with higher volume and then increase the tubing size to the valves, 1" valves, and 1" tubes to each of the bags to help improve filing time. You could like go larger than that depending on your through hull size..

An Avy can throw an awesome wave. Make sure the connections are good on the PP. Are you planning on listing the boat, a suck gate or tabs? I list mine and love my wave. Others like the suckgate (fuel hog) and others like adding tabs. If you have to swap sides alot, I recommend the infinity tabs. If you ride the same side all the time, list it and save the $$$. For my listed wave I do the factory center, 1500lb custom sac and about another 200-300 lbs on the seat. the wave is tall, long and has good push. Just a driver maybe a kid or 2. I also have a custom a-plate. Since we only surf goofy, my whole system is designed for that side. I've done write ups on here about my ballast system and plate. Welcome to the Crew!!!!

what i found out this weekend is with the listed (100% rear bag 100% port side QF at 10.4) is good for skim boards, but not so good for boards like the Liquid force Fish style board. For some reason i can ride all day long with the skim style without the rope, but on the Fish i cant even let go. I think the speed is to slow for the longer board. Dont ask me why, cause i dont know but i just ordered a new surf style board should be here in the next week or so and ill update to see if that one rides better and slower or faster speeds.

Welcome to the forum. Is the steering wheel similarly difficult to turn when it's on the trailer? You probably need to grease your rudder or replace your steering cable, or both. You don't have power steering, it's just a cable that runs from the helm to the rudder. Someone on here has had at least temporary luck in greasing the cable by forcing grease down in the sheathing, but it's technically not a servicable part. As a rule of thumb, always leave your steering wheel turned all the way to the left when the boat is parked. That keeps the end of the cable inside the sheathing and protected from moisture in the bilge.

i know this is bringing up an old thread but have just done this on mine. had to remake the cup holder section to reposition the cup holders and to make room for the speaker. there is also a hole for the speakers cushion frame you just have to cut the vinyl, but the speaker is out there to get damaged by careless kids. in the cup holder holder area i feel is less likely to get damaged by a stray elbow or foot.