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  1. 2 points
    From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….
  2. 2 points
    On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha
  5. 1 point
    There are actually 4 of them in your boat. 2 large and 2 smaller forward. You can try calling centurion. They might be able to point you to a vendor. Otherwise, you’ll have to make them. I’d use plastic as thick as the U-channel on the floor will hold. I’d also reinforce them with U-channel aluminum on the engine side. 209-384-0255
  6. 1 point
    take a look at page 68 in this doc. https://pcmengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/2016-EX343_ZR409_ZR450_XR550_XS550-Owners-Manual-min.pdf According to this, there are no block drains. only exhaust manifolds and a few hose removals.
  7. 1 point
    Honestly the holes are inside the transom they don't pass into the hull so no leak would occur so don't think I did anything but sure throw little marine sealant on or silicone if it makes ya warm and fuzzy wont hurt anything.
  8. 1 point
    Ya I also have my sub above the foot rest its a bazooka tube the big one it works well, when it goes I def planning on cutting one in I know its been done here before. My thought was just use the fiberglass as a box maybe add some poly stuffing might sounds like crap not sure could also port the box.
  9. 1 point
    was the IAC valve replaced? i might start there, there's a thread on it on this site showing normal symptoms, so if those were what you were experiencing prior to the no-start the IAC valve could be the culprit.
  10. 1 point
    Come to think of it, I think you’re right. The change was ‘23, not ‘22. It happened late last year, but they were ‘23 models. I’m not sure what all of the charges are, the dealer should have more detail on that, but either way, the ‘21 is a legit boat. Especially if you’re getting it for $15K less than a new S220.
  11. 1 point
    Both boats are great options, and neither one needs extra weight to throw a second to none surf wave. Base on what you’ve said, assuming they’re similarly optioned, I’d go Fi23 all day. The Fi23 is a foot longer, will have better tech, and the Centurions have slightly higher grade vinyl than the Supremes. All that said, I should also note that the Fi23 was redesigned for ‘22, so the ‘21 isn’t the most recent model of the Fi if that matters to you. The ‘21 and ‘22 both have the opti-v hull.
  12. 1 point
    The 396 hrs for an 8 yr old boat that has been well maintained wouldn’t scare me away. That said, the FS44 only has 142hrs for $2k-ish more.
  13. 1 point
    It’s not possible to upgrade the valves, just look for a 2022 or newer. At lower elevation the 6.0 HO will move that boat fine. If you ride with a big crew or run lead, or plan on going up in elevation Id go ZZ6, keep in mind the ZZ6 will be the more desirable mill and better for resale down the road. 2907 prop or similar will be necessary with the 6.0.
  14. 1 point
    It looks like a ProFlight Swoop tower. They were very common among the wakeboat manufacturers based in the CA Central Valley in the early-mid 2000’s.
  15. 1 point
    I owned a 2015 FS33 until last year that we bought brand new and I only had a valve stick on me 1x (400+hrs). My screen went out the very first year I had it, it was covered under warranty and I didn't have any other issues. I LOVED this boat.
  16. 1 point
    Congrats on the new purchase! If I recall correctly from my old '07 Avalanche, it was the same way. But thinking about it now, I'm curious. I'm going to have to check on my ZS and see how it works. We are rarely on the lake after dusk, so the lights don't get much use.
  17. 1 point
    Hey Adam, Short answer, yes. You'll also want to add sacrificial anodes to your underwater gear. see link below: https://www.piratescave.co.uk/blogs/blog/what-are-anodes-on-a-boat-used-for/#:~:text=Boat anodes are an essential,- aluminium%2C magnesium and zinc. In addition to flushing the engine, I would thoroughly clean the underwater gear and trailer after each use in salt water. You really don't need to add the fresh water line to be honest, you could do the same with a Fake-a-Lake. https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-50073761-Seasense-In-Board-Flusher/dp/B002L557KK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2SMCFYTWXYMHZ&keywords=fake+a+lake&qid=1670249412&sprefix=fake+a+lake%2Caps%2C407&sr=8-4 You probably already know, but running your boat in salt water will significantly devalue it to most potential future buyers if/when you decide to sell. I hope that helps. Best of luck!
  18. 1 point
    Hi, Has anyone installed mechanical stereo volume controls? Looking for dedicated buttons or rotating knob as I find the touch screen only volume controls less than ideal. Boat: 2021 Centurion VI22 Stereo: Centurion CHAMP Audio Package w/1 pair BLACK Pro Rev10 Wet Sounds Tower Spkrs, Integrated ICE Stereo, AM/FM USB On-Screen Controls, 8" BLACK Interior Spkrs and 12" Sub Thanks!
  19. 1 point
    Very nice ride KC! Congrats! Are some of those pics at Havasu?
  20. 1 point
    I'm not sure which latches came on your boat, but my '07 Avalanche and my '19 ZS232 both had/have these: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/surface-mount-cam-latch-black-with-chrome-handle
  21. 1 point
    Hey @jtyron and @Bigcatpt you guys were totally right. The sideswipe is LOUD... my wife was like nope love this boat but not getting it unless we get a FAE... called up the guys in Austin, 4 weeks later installed, Just dipped it in the water last night for the first cruise ! purrrrrrs like a kitten!!! Thanks for the heads up on FAE. In love with this boat!
  22. 1 point
    We had an original all yellow(!) 2004 Enzo SV230, purchased new in spring of ‘06. We loved it and had until 2014, when kids had gotten car keys and no longer wanted to hang out with Mom Dad LOL. I had the honor of being a driver for the 2008 World WakeSurf Championship, hosted here in Nashville. I was active on the “Crew”, and even ran across my Centurioncrew.com T-shirt the other day (like new!). Long story short, our sons have gotten married and returned to the area, we have other friends that appreciate lake life, so…we decided to get a boat! Bought a beautiful 2020 Vi24 maintained well by the PO. We are so stoked and so happy to be back in the Centurion family! Pics are here (hopefully): https://link.shutterfly.com/idR62Ana7rb
  23. 1 point
    Your tower is a Double Up tower. Check greatlakesskipper. They might have a factory cover for a good price. I was able to get 2 covers from them for my previous boat (2007 Avalanche with Double Up).
  24. 1 point
    This is the dimensions of my Avy sac for the port side for my 03 Avy. Main 22H X 24W X 52L Arm 10H X 24W X 62L You will want to place your fill, empty, vent holes according to your pump set up. Main… LXWXH = 27456 = 118.857 gallons = 992.46 pounds Arm.. LXWXH = 14880 = 64.416 gallons = 537.87 pounds Total cubic inches = 42336 = 183.272 gallons = 1530 pounds *Water 8.35 pounds per gallon
  25. 1 point
    does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. Glad to hear it’s not just me and I wasn’t missing something. We had to replace the starter this weekend (which was zero fun) but afterwards the v drive light worked correctly. Maybe I was just understanding it incorrectly the first time out. Now onto gauges, stereo, and ballast pump issues. This is a great forum for help. Thanks again
  27. 1 point
    the priming thing happened with mine when i was doing my first impeller change after buying the boat. the PO didn't use it much in the 5 years he owned it so must have never changed it, and the old one wore a ring where it rides against the pump housing. i see you already installed the plate that goes between the two halves of the housing to fix the issue when you install a new impeller. call Steve Buttrick at C&S Marine Pumps. i got my impeller from him, and when i went to install it he had included a note in the box that stated this exact issue being common for the Merc motors. super good guy to work with a he was a fraction of the cost of others that i was shopping around. i bet he can talk through what it would take to get yours fixed. C & S Marine Pumps Inc 149 s Highway 97 Cantonment , Florida 32533 Cell (850) 380-1731
  28. 1 point
    My local dealer didn’t have much to say besides “it’s safe to use” so I called Centurion. They acknowledged there was an issue (obviously) and said they would contact the dealer. I totally get problems can happen during manufacturing so I’m not mad about the defect. Just want it fixed…. Will update this thread as this progresses.
  29. 1 point
    Just as a follow up, I wound up buying a 2019 Ri237. Purchased from Boardco and Tyler was great to deal with. Have already put 60 hours on it down in two trips to Havasu. Wave is fantastic. Day one, struggle fest. Day two, wave looking good. Day three, four, five, six etc, wave dialed. My SV230 threw a great wave. This is similar wave but much more predictable, better in chop, better push from the back, and really everything I was hoping for. Let me know if anyone thinking about a similar switch has questions and thanks for all the help.
  30. 1 point
    Hey Jason, Yes, my understanding is that deploying the Asymmetrical plate downward will help clean up the goofy wave. I had an ‘07 Avy (similar running surface) before my current boat and I had a custom Asymmetrical plate fab’ed for it. The cleanest goofy wave I could get was with the plate deployed beyond 50%. The FAE will not only reduce CO2, but will reduce engine/exhaust noise. Some have said they can create a little bit of spray, but it’s negligible.
  31. 1 point
    It takes the Diacom software to clear it. Post in one of the Facebook groups and see if there are any members nearby that have the software and adapter to connect to the PCM engine.
  32. 1 point
    Thanks for the heads up. The actuators to switch sides definitely work. I used them all last summer and just took them off the boat. I'll put them up in the Classifieds.
  33. 1 point
    Shane, Its holding up fine, although we try and keep everything pretty clean, no shoes, etc. Yes happy with it. Way better than carpet.
  34. 1 point
    Thanks Troy, just got off the phone with perfect pass and have one on the way!
  35. 1 point
    That is not normal. Mine travels from 0 - 100 moving at every 5% increment. I actually set it to 45 at the most aggressive, and usually am about 55-60 for my normal surf style setting. My wife prefers skim so she likes it mellow like 90-100.
  36. 1 point
    Thank @jtryon and @Troy. R I got the FLY HIGH FATSAC 650 CENTER LOCKER / REAR SEAT BAG & SUPA TSUNAMI PUMP (650 LB) and it fits great.
  37. 1 point
    That's going to be hard to find. But you should be able to find the manual for your engine. Sorry.
  38. 1 point
    Sorry you had to go through such a headache to get this done, but glad you were able to finally get it resolved.
  39. 1 point
    dimensions for my typhoon are 10" height, 26" width under the passenger seat, so you can start there on wakemakers' site and get whatever length you need. check here, for instance they have a 50"L x 25"W x 10"H which gives you 500lbs, or a 60" long for 610lbs, or 70" long for 710lbs.
  40. 1 point
    Hey @newtonabbie, Me again! Haha! Unfortunately this site doesn't get near the traffic that it used to. When I first joined in the 2010 timeframe, this place was hoppin' and was such a great place to get boating and specifically Centurion information. I don't do social media, so it's my only boating outlet. So, we took a real good look at the FI23 as well in our search. I loved the upgraded tech, ramfill, fit/finish of the FI23 over the ZS232. My wife actually preferred the look of the ZS and decided she would prefer to go the ZS route even BEFORE she knew the $$ difference. Hahaha! That, and of course the cost difference, drove us toward the ZS. The size/interior space is very comparable between the 2 boats. The ZS actually sits a little taller (has higher freeboard) and as such is a little heavier/more tow weight, but its marginal (maybe 150-200 lbs). They have VERY similar running surfaces (Opti-V on the FI, Tapered-V on the ZS) and very similar weight when fully ballast loaded. They both throw a phenomenal surf wave. I never got to the point where I tested the FI, but based on the input of my local dealer, they said the ZS wave is actually a little better if you're looking at wave alone (leaving out all of the other obvious upgrades of the FI over the ZS). In reality, The running surfaces, weight, size, and surf systems are so similar on the 2 boats, I doubt most would be able to tell the difference in the waves.
  41. 1 point
    i would definitely take the boat if you're essentially getting it for free plus your payout--you can probably have someone lined up to buy it for $5-10K within a week. was the motor pickled as soon as it was pulled from the water, i.e. got all the water out, no water in the oil after running it afterwards? if the motor checks out and has good compression still, that's huge. can you take your $47k, keep the boat yourself and drop it off at a shop to redo the important items after shopping around for better prices? you should be able to replace all the important stuff like gauges, perfect pass, etc. with new ones just as a peace of mind and still come out well on top.
  42. 1 point
    Awesome Beerman, thanks for taking such good care of it. Its in super good shape for its age. We're really enjoying the boat. Got everything winterized, changed fluids, took out impeller, etc. last weekend. Only issue is that in order to get the impeller out had to remove the exhaust due to swapping out the sideswipe, it was so close. Pro tip for everybody with a heater. Not sure where I read it, probably on here. Take off the heater hoses and use an air compressor to blow out the water. Dump some rv antifreeze in there and run the air compressor again till it comes out. Even though I ran rv antifreeze through the whole system there was still some water in the heater. Winter projects include: Add in valve for winterizing/flushing system. This one: https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=40615 And get the infinity wave system installed. Hope everybody has a good winter. Hope next spring comes soon.
  43. 1 point
    Hey Chris, that is my old boat. I haven't been on the site for a while but just jumped on to look around. I am happy to see it's in good hands and your family is enjoying it. We owned it for 12 years and loved it. If we kept it I would have done the exhaust as well.
  44. 1 point
    I'm surprised this issue isn't covered under warranty? Did you transfer the warranty from the previous owner? There should be a limited lifetime structural/hull warranty...
  45. 1 point
    we got our RI230 and by night with the small white interior lights where dazzling my blue eyes. Directly i decided to do a small fixe. If someone has the same issue i m more than happy to share the file to 3d print those little covers. text me if you would like to have the .STL file or the G code for the 3d printer Hello everyone
  46. 1 point
    I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.
  47. 1 point
    An Avy can throw an awesome wave. Make sure the connections are good on the PP. Are you planning on listing the boat, a suck gate or tabs? I list mine and love my wave. Others like the suckgate (fuel hog) and others like adding tabs. If you have to swap sides alot, I recommend the infinity tabs. If you ride the same side all the time, list it and save the $$$. For my listed wave I do the factory center, 1500lb custom sac and about another 200-300 lbs on the seat. the wave is tall, long and has good push. Just a driver maybe a kid or 2. I also have a custom a-plate. Since we only surf goofy, my whole system is designed for that side. I've done write ups on here about my ballast system and plate. Welcome to the Crew!!!!
  48. 1 point
    Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.
  49. 1 point
    2008 Avy. 330hp Black Scorpion Oil Filter - 35-866340K01 Fuel Filter -35-802893T Impeller - (47)862232A2 In-Line Fuel Filter - 35-864572 Belt - 57-865615-005 Exhaust Gasket - 27-33395 Spark Plug - 12607235 Or AC Delco 41-993 Rotor - 13524T12 Cap - 805759T1 Plug Wires - 863656A03 Cap and rotor kit (Sierra) - 18-5273 Oil - 4.5 Quarts 25W-40 NMMA FC-W V-Drive oil - HD-30 PSS Shaft seal - PY1HG11X17 PSS SHAFT SEAL 1-1\8" That's all I got.
  50. 1 point
    If you want more power you need to go with at least the 450. The 409 and the 343 have almost identical torque curves which is what moves a boat. Granted the 409 makes more horse power but at an RPM range that is not used in a wake boat.
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