Idaho Mike

Might be PCM - getting tested next week.

It's just the readout on the dash. What is the difference? Thanks.

Not sure what happened... Boat shop said they couldn't get a reading for winterization and for summerization. I called Centurion and they said the only way that could happen is if ignition was left on. That makes no sense... Should be about 600 hrs., not 29,000. Also, if you do the math 1 year = 8,760 hours, so something weird is going on... Thoughts? Has anybody else experienced this? Boat is 2009 Enzo SV240.

Had a guy fix my bennett trim tab pump ("HPU" unit replaced), but he mounted it so the hoses basically come straight out where the enzo sacks are (effing idiot!). So I fill them up, it crushes/bends the hoses, and then they don't work until I cut and insert back into the ferrule, then tighten. Besides re-mounting the HPU differently (which is a PITA), it seemed it would be easy to install an "elbow" assembly so that the hydraulic lines go into the unit parallel so the sacks stop crushing and bending them. Thanks for any help you might provide. If you know such a part exists, and could post a link, that would be awesome.

Ugh! I think H20king is right. Looking at the old holes there's definitely metal in there, and it doesn't look like they're plugged and epoxied in there (if that makes any sense). I guess I'll watch a bunch of youtube videos to learn how to tap a hole that's half fiberglass, and half metal. Good gawd, nothing about owning and fixing a boat is easy. ever!

Pictures here. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m889zA7p92R-Q9afnIn612AaWxctg0Gt?usp=sharing I was in the process of adding that information but when I tried to post it said I couldn't edit, so here's what I intended to add: Swim platform is 2" at the particular location. Holes pre-drilled in aluminum brackets measure either exactly or just slightly larger than 1/4", with the thickness of the brackets exactly 1/4". I'm thinking of using these 1/4" x 1-1/2" stainless steel lag screw bolts (http://a.co/34BAtEZ), pre-drilled to a depth of 1-3/8" (counting the 1/4" bracket), with a 3/16 width drill bit. I assume I should fill with some aqua seal or silicone? Anything else I'm missing or getting wrong? (Original brackets appear to have some sort of insert - I don't want to mess with that pain in the arse if I can avoid it)

So my brackets started to feel wobbly, and I decided to put on the new beefier aluminum brackets... but the screw holes for underneath the fiberglass platform do not line up. What is the best way to put about 16 screws through the underside of my swim platform to hold the bracket in place? Because I keep my boat on the water where there's occasional wave action (upward push) I want to make sure that the screws hold tightly and do not create pathways for water to creep up the glass strands in the fiberglass. Thanks in advance for any recommendations you can provide.

I got a letter from the dockmaster at the marina where I keep my boat advising: You currently are using an electrical cord that is not "marina approved". There are very specific electrical cords to be use on docks. The current cord must be replaced with a "marina approved" electrical cord. IF the cord is not replaced within 10 days of this letter, the Board will instruct the Dock master to replace it and charge you for time and materials. My setup from the shore power station, near the bow of my boat on the slip, is to run a marine pigtail adapter (2' long) to a heavy duty extension cord, which then goes to my battery tender. I'm not sure if they are worried about it not being beefy enough, or whether they want to see some sort of GFCI / fuse that is specific to marine extension cords. Is there such thing as a standard wall-outlet style extension cord like you use for a standard 110 V. system? It seems all the true "marine" grade extension cords have the circular 3-hole plugs on both ends.

Oops... meant to post in Centurion area, not Supreme. Oh well, maybe somebody will find it here anyway...

It for sure floats - happened last year, only it broke at one bracket and not the other so getting it off while it was bouncing around was difficult. We got it off and luckily it floated (I would've sunk clutching it to my death!). I handed off to two people in the boat and they lifted and set on the engine compartment. We finished surfing no problem, but yea, getting in and out required some assistance after that!

So my 2009 Enzo SV240's glove box latch is to the point where bouncing on the waves at cruising speed pops the lid open. Latch appears to be worn out. Has anybody else had this problem, and if so, how did you fix it. I have some ideas, but would prefer to get some insight and wisdom from those of you with experience before I deploy a sub-optimal fix. Alternatively, anybody know where I can get a new latch? Looks like mine is worn down pretty good, although it doesn't look so worn down it shouldn't be holding a lot better. Thoughts? Pic's in a shared gmail folder below... https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByDdW7w_5nYYeUxxSU1xdmlSNVU

Update: Aaaaaaaaaaand they're broken. Again. I'll try to surf as long as the swim platform stays put, and keep the kids from being towed behind the boat until the new steel brackets get ordered and get in. Is that dumb to leave the platform on until it breaks completely off?

Update: I drove it home on one 3 axles, no problems. It was about 20 miles.

Long Overdue Update: So they delivered the axles to my front porch, took about a week. Per many other people's suggestion, I arranged to have them powder coated. The manufacturer said to either powder coat or spray Lin-x / Rhino Liner on them. I was award that powder coating takes some major heating to get it to melt on, so talked to powder coating person and he said they get it up to 400 degrees. It seemed odd to me that rubber torsion axles could sustain that kind of heat without being damaged, so I called back the axle manufacturer to get confirmation this was okay. They basically said "Holy crap! It gets that hot!? No, do NOT have powder coated!" So yea, some misinformation direct from the manufacturer! I wonder how many other people did this? I therefore went the LIn-x route. Went smooth, but when I delivered to my buddy/mechanic, he said he needed to scrape off the LIn-X where the guides for the brake lines were so he could weld new ones on. So if you're doing work on your broken axle, you should get this done before you paint/Lin-X them. I got 4 new tires, new bearings, and the trailer is pretty awesome.

I own the SV240 same year. Makes a good wave but yea, you need to add an Enzo sac and lead (or a handful of people) to get it to surf well. Also, the goofy wave is hard to clean up. I can't speak to the Mastercrafts.