mikeyr114

Looking to buy a factory ballast upgrade this weekend for my 2010 c4 with 5 tanks. If I just wanna replace rear locker hard tanks am I looking at the wakemakers 750 avy kit or the 1100 enzo kit?

Wiring your new Motorized Ball Valve This U.S. Solid motorized ball valve comes with two wires. It is most easily used by wiring directly to a power source or simple on off switch. Because this is an auto-return valve, simply shutting off the power will close the valve. Like most U.S. Solid products, the motorized ball valves come with an guide for getting started. You will not have to agonize over finding appropriate wiring diagrams, because it will all be laid out for you in a covenient information sheet.

They kind of contradict in the description whether it needs another voltage shot to close it with this line: 2 WIRE AUTOMATIC RETURN SETUP- Simple two wire connection, valve largely de-energizes after opening; Returns to fully closed if power is removed I have 5 tanks and 2 ballast puppys currently. All stock setup with stock tanks. I am debating how to add to the system without losing factory functionality. If these valves will work it should substantially reduce my fill times over the sprinkler valve set up with them being full flow. I would then feel comfortable with adding bags to my rear lockers without fearing taking forever to fill with current system. I may just order one and see how it functions. If I redo manifold only and keep the two pumps should I crossover them to increase flow? Each puppy would need an inline check valve then?

Hey, anyone ever try these valves to replace factory sprinkler valves on ballast system? Are the factory normally closed or open? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X9LWXMW/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1

perfect so both positive and negative 6 awg to the new battery and jump the grounds from battery to battery?

So just checked out the boat. There are 2 wires connected to the pos. battery post; One is unlabeled and a size 0 awg (or close) wire and the other is a 6awg wire that is labeled acc 2 batt 2. Both go into the black switch box mounted on the wall. The negative battery post has the following; one size 0awg wire that goes into the bottom of the boat - guessing a ground bar back to the engine, one 6awg wire that appears to head towards the starboard side of boat(guessing breaker panel area), a 4awg wire to ground the amp and 2 smaller ground wires. I am thinking that if I take both 6awg wires and add those to the 2nd battery that is the way it was from factory? What are your thoughts? Is there a need to then jump the grounds as well? So I have an understanding of how to operate once this is done, I run the boat all the time in the on position and then if the battery is dead on the water (from radio )I would then switch to combine? The auto bilge bypasses the switch correct and is always powered as long as battery is hooked up? Thanks for you help! I am looking to swap out the factory MB quart radio this winter and wanted to figure out the battery system first.

Ok sounds good. I will check and see tomorrow. Thanks.

Here is the pic. I purchased the boat this summer and just thinking the previous owner put both leads to one battery instead of replacing both. Everything I see indicates it was originally set up for dual batteries.

Hey guys, I have a 2010 Avalanche, and looking to add a 2nd battery. I have the Blue sea dual batt switch with VSR. Currently there is only 1 battery installed with all wires connected to the one battery. It appears all I have to do is add a 2nd battery and connect the acc hot and acc ground leads to the new battery? Should I jump the neutrals as well? If you need pics let me know.