Idaho Mike

The belt had been "ticking" for maybe 3 weeks. Out tonight and alarm started going off. I was aware belts were a problem with this engine... looked 8n the engine compartment and belt had come off. Slight split in belt. Ugh! Anyway, was supposed to go camping tomorrow in the boat about an hour away (lake coeur d'alene) and wondered if I can get this belt anywhere and put it on myself, or if this is an order-only item that only ninja mechanics can do. Also if there are any weird issues I need to know about. Mucho appreciate any info all you experts may have!!! Thanks!

My 2009 Enzo SV240 recently had its brackets break while surfing. We undid the pins, pulled it up and set it on the engine compartment, and continued to surf. No biggie - it was sort of cool to see how the water comes off the hull and makes a wave. I didn't really understand the mechanics of what was happening when a surf wave is made until I saw what goes on immediately underneath the swim platform. Pretty cool. Anyway, in trying to figure out a way to fix my broken brackets, I looked into welding it, and also buying a replacement. Turns out the broken swim platform issue is not a new one for Centurion (or Fineline in general, actually). There's a guy who made all of the Fineline brackets who I got to talk to about the issue (he's here: http://www.alloymarine.com/indexII/swimdeck.htm). He told me that when they originally designed the brackets they were for short teak decks and were made before surfing came into vogue. However, swim decks got bigger and started getting sunk for surfing, and it took a long time for them to figure out they needed to be beefed up. The guy from alloymarine presents his proposed solution (a beefier bracket and transom bracket connection) to Fineline's guy, and the guy at Fineline says nope, and gives him his design. So they make more boats with crappy brackets. They start breaking, people start calling Centurion, and Centurion starts replacing them, but meanwhile continues ordering brackets from the guy at alloymarine for their boats. They order a bunch on credit, and then stiff the guy at alloymarine and blame his breaking brackets. There is some sort of settlement and the guy at alloymarine doesn't get paid everything he feels entitled to. He said Fineline/Centurion also got some insurance money, and that they are supposed to be fixing the brackets themselves. However, when I called them they told me to call alloymarine!? If this is true, I'm super pissed. So they sell boats with a known defect, take a pound of flesh from the guy who made them to Fineline's spec's, take some insurance payment, and then don't take responsibility when I call about needing a replacement bracket? The replacement brackets from alloymarine required that I pay money for the transom mount, and the new brackets, to the tune of about $400 to replace both brackets. So I took them to the "weldery" and got them fixed for $150 (including my tip to them for fixing right away, otherwise probably would have cost me $100 or so) I would also note that when the swim deck broke I had noticed that it seemed unstable. When I looked at the weld it seemed fine, but it had actually broken but when out of the water it settled tight so nothing looked wrong. The welder guy pointed out that it had not broken from having too much weight place on it (downward pressure), but had actually been forced up in order to accomplish the break, which makes sense. So it's the downward force of the boat that pushes up on the swim deck and pulls up on the weld, effectively eliminating the beneficial strength of the bracket structure and putting all of the force on the welds' tying into the bracket structure. So now I have super beefy welds!! Any bets on how long they last? From the sound of it, people who've just welded them haven't had a lot of success, but the welder who did this work felt pretty confident that the weld was not going to be where they broke, if they broke again... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByDdW7w_5nYYUXdIeXkxaEVEcWM/view?usp=sharing

I have two vehicles, a boat trailer, and umpteen kazillion bikes and balls that constantly need to be inflated. I'd like to have an air compressor that's portable, quiet, and up to the job of all these things. I was thinking that there's a model out there that keeps an air reservoir full, where it sits atop the unit that inflates it, and you can just pick up the reservoir portion and walk it over to the bikes/car/trailer etc. and then inflate. But online I can't seem to find one of these. Was I imagining this or does it actually exist. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Not sure what happened... Boat shop said they couldn't get a reading for winterization and for summerization. I called Centurion and they said the only way that could happen is if ignition was left on. That makes no sense... Should be about 600 hrs., not 29,000. Also, if you do the math 1 year = 8,760 hours, so something weird is going on... Thoughts? Has anybody else experienced this? Boat is 2009 Enzo SV240.

Might be PCM - getting tested next week.

It's just the readout on the dash. What is the difference? Thanks.

Had a guy fix my bennett trim tab pump ("HPU" unit replaced), but he mounted it so the hoses basically come straight out where the enzo sacks are (effing idiot!). So I fill them up, it crushes/bends the hoses, and then they don't work until I cut and insert back into the ferrule, then tighten. Besides re-mounting the HPU differently (which is a PITA), it seemed it would be easy to install an "elbow" assembly so that the hydraulic lines go into the unit parallel so the sacks stop crushing and bending them. Thanks for any help you might provide. If you know such a part exists, and could post a link, that would be awesome.

So my brackets started to feel wobbly, and I decided to put on the new beefier aluminum brackets... but the screw holes for underneath the fiberglass platform do not line up. What is the best way to put about 16 screws through the underside of my swim platform to hold the bracket in place? Because I keep my boat on the water where there's occasional wave action (upward push) I want to make sure that the screws hold tightly and do not create pathways for water to creep up the glass strands in the fiberglass. Thanks in advance for any recommendations you can provide.

Ugh! I think H20king is right. Looking at the old holes there's definitely metal in there, and it doesn't look like they're plugged and epoxied in there (if that makes any sense). I guess I'll watch a bunch of youtube videos to learn how to tap a hole that's half fiberglass, and half metal. Good gawd, nothing about owning and fixing a boat is easy. ever!

Pictures here. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m889zA7p92R-Q9afnIn612AaWxctg0Gt?usp=sharing I was in the process of adding that information but when I tried to post it said I couldn't edit, so here's what I intended to add: Swim platform is 2" at the particular location. Holes pre-drilled in aluminum brackets measure either exactly or just slightly larger than 1/4", with the thickness of the brackets exactly 1/4". I'm thinking of using these 1/4" x 1-1/2" stainless steel lag screw bolts (http://a.co/34BAtEZ), pre-drilled to a depth of 1-3/8" (counting the 1/4" bracket), with a 3/16 width drill bit. I assume I should fill with some aqua seal or silicone? Anything else I'm missing or getting wrong? (Original brackets appear to have some sort of insert - I don't want to mess with that pain in the arse if I can avoid it)

I got a letter from the dockmaster at the marina where I keep my boat advising: You currently are using an electrical cord that is not "marina approved". There are very specific electrical cords to be use on docks. The current cord must be replaced with a "marina approved" electrical cord. IF the cord is not replaced within 10 days of this letter, the Board will instruct the Dock master to replace it and charge you for time and materials. My setup from the shore power station, near the bow of my boat on the slip, is to run a marine pigtail adapter (2' long) to a heavy duty extension cord, which then goes to my battery tender. I'm not sure if they are worried about it not being beefy enough, or whether they want to see some sort of GFCI / fuse that is specific to marine extension cords. Is there such thing as a standard wall-outlet style extension cord like you use for a standard 110 V. system? It seems all the true "marine" grade extension cords have the circular 3-hole plugs on both ends.

So my 2009 Enzo SV240's glove box latch is to the point where bouncing on the waves at cruising speed pops the lid open. Latch appears to be worn out. Has anybody else had this problem, and if so, how did you fix it. I have some ideas, but would prefer to get some insight and wisdom from those of you with experience before I deploy a sub-optimal fix. Alternatively, anybody know where I can get a new latch? Looks like mine is worn down pretty good, although it doesn't look so worn down it shouldn't be holding a lot better. Thoughts? Pic's in a shared gmail folder below... https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByDdW7w_5nYYeUxxSU1xdmlSNVU

Oops... meant to post in Centurion area, not Supreme. Oh well, maybe somebody will find it here anyway...

It for sure floats - happened last year, only it broke at one bracket and not the other so getting it off while it was bouncing around was difficult. We got it off and luckily it floated (I would've sunk clutching it to my death!). I handed off to two people in the boat and they lifted and set on the engine compartment. We finished surfing no problem, but yea, getting in and out required some assistance after that!

Update: Aaaaaaaaaaand they're broken. Again. I'll try to surf as long as the swim platform stays put, and keep the kids from being towed behind the boat until the new steel brackets get ordered and get in. Is that dumb to leave the platform on until it breaks completely off?

Is there not some work-around that would let me use my boat trailer to drive boat about 15 miles? I would really like to get the boat in the water (for obvious reasons) so I can launch it and work on an empty trailer when I Replace my axles. Like bailing wire and a wagon wheel or something!? Anything!? Help! I wouldn't have even considered it, but somebody at the axle manufacturer suggested I could "limp" it to the lake with three legs instead of four, although that is not recommended it can work in a pinch.

Update: I drove it home on one 3 axles, no problems. It was about 20 miles.

Stored my boat with a friend, had a guy pick it up and do some work on it, then put it back in friend's garage. I go to pull it out to put it in the water today, and discover that one of the tires is rubbing on the "tire-well" of the trailer. We jack it up, pull tire off, and figure out that the torsion mechanism inside is "stripped" or something similar. We changed angle and it just sort of smooshed back into resting on the bottom of the tire well. So there' no suspension to speak of. Clearly needs to be replaced. My boat is a 2009 Enzo SV240, and this is the factory trailer (if you could call it that - bought with boat, I'm sure). I'm likely the second owner of the boat, and trailer. It is a "Sport Boat Trailer" manufactured 5/2008, BVWR/PNBV: 3175KG (7,000KG) Anyway, has anybody else had this issue? What did you do? My thought is I need to buy a new torsion axle. But (1) I'm not sure which one to buy, and (2) I don't know how to yank the old one out and put in the new one. Picture for diagnosis purposes in the link below: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByDdW7w_5nYYckhqNk9CR01vcjMwWWZYRzFQTWI1MXdPaGJJ/view?usp=sharing So how do I figure out which torsion axle I need to buy? Any other suggestions from those who have gone before?

Long Overdue Update: So they delivered the axles to my front porch, took about a week. Per many other people's suggestion, I arranged to have them powder coated. The manufacturer said to either powder coat or spray Lin-x / Rhino Liner on them. I was award that powder coating takes some major heating to get it to melt on, so talked to powder coating person and he said they get it up to 400 degrees. It seemed odd to me that rubber torsion axles could sustain that kind of heat without being damaged, so I called back the axle manufacturer to get confirmation this was okay. They basically said "Holy crap! It gets that hot!? No, do NOT have powder coated!" So yea, some misinformation direct from the manufacturer! I wonder how many other people did this? I therefore went the LIn-x route. Went smooth, but when I delivered to my buddy/mechanic, he said he needed to scrape off the LIn-X where the guides for the brake lines were so he could weld new ones on. So if you're doing work on your broken axle, you should get this done before you paint/Lin-X them. I got 4 new tires, new bearings, and the trailer is pretty awesome.

I own the SV240 same year. Makes a good wave but yea, you need to add an Enzo sac and lead (or a handful of people) to get it to surf well. Also, the goofy wave is hard to clean up. I can't speak to the Mastercrafts.

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Trailer manufacturer info is here: http://sbtrailers.com/index.php/contactus Axle manufacturer website is here: http://www.dexteraxle.com/ Guy by the name of "Bill" helped me out at dexter. add extension X-25026 to the number above and he can email you information about the axles and how to replace them.

They are actually going to replace BOTH axles. For ease to future boaters suffering from this same thing, the company's name is Dexter Axle, and the phone number for customer service/warranty is is 931-967-5101. What is difficult and very, very sad, is how long this is going to take. Sounded like it will be two weeks to get the axles, and that sounded hopeful. Do you think there's any way I could limp my trailer and boat about 15 miles to get her in the lake, or am I stuck? Seems like there should be some work-around to get my boat in the water! :-( Maybe I should start a separate thread for this question?

Mine is inside of the trailer sleeve, if that makes sense. Shouldn't be anything for me to need to paint - at least as I understand it.

In reading up on this, apparently both Boatmate and Sport Boat trailers used the same torsion axles, and had the same types of failures. Super annoying!