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From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….

On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:

Pic

Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha

We talked about this in the "Older Centurion" thread. Do you have a Tru-Trac or a Falcon? If yes, post a pic or multiple pics of it here. Have a good work around or modification, post it here. Questions? Post them here. I have some old brochures, I'll post them up this evening. Here's a pic of my 1993 open bow Falcon.

There are actually 4 of them in your boat. 2 large and 2 smaller forward. You can try calling centurion. They might be able to point you to a vendor. Otherwise, you’ll have to make them. I’d use plastic as thick as the U-channel on the floor will hold. I’d also reinforce them with U-channel aluminum on the engine side. 209-384-0255

I haven’t heard much in terms using a wake shaper on an Enzo. My opinion is that you probably don’t need it. That Enzo hull likes to lean. Start by filling your Enzo sac on the port side, keeping the starboard empty, and running at 10.5 mph. You’ll probably end up needing more weight, but that will give you a good baseline to start from. Adding weight to the rear/under the port side seats will make the wave bigger. You can play with the speed too (I wouldn’t recommend over about 11), but if I recall correctly, 10.5 is what most of us were running with Avys/Enzos back in the day.

Maybe something like this? https://www.cutandcouple.com/product/material-suction-and-discharge-hose/?attribute_pa_hose-i-d=4&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoeemBhCfARIsADR2QCsnNVPBAdd86cnrf4nd568rTae4yZNneciL7hMEgsLSC9F14A-YVtsaAh5CEALw_wcB

take a look at page 68 in this doc. https://pcmengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/2016-EX343_ZR409_ZR450_XR550_XS550-Owners-Manual-min.pdf According to this, there are no block drains. only exhaust manifolds and a few hose removals.

Honestly the holes are inside the transom they don't pass into the hull so no leak would occur so don't think I did anything but sure throw little marine sealant on or silicone if it makes ya warm and fuzzy wont hurt anything.

Hey @Avy06: how is this working for you so far? Our platform bracket busted on Monday, so I'm about to pull the trigger on the Alloy Marine ones for our 2007 Typhoon. Did the new 2-1/2" bolts work well with the thicker transom plate, or did you need something longer? I'm assuming you went with the 316 stainless instead of 18-8, but if you have any more details to share, it would be greatly appreciated.

Awesome upgrades. Great job on all the work.

Hi guys, So, i installed a wetsounds rocker remote control inorder to have a physical button instead of being committed to the touch screen. What i was really hoping to be able to do is control the master volume. My main question - does the supreme 2021/2022 headunit have an auxiliary that can be plugged into? Right now i have my device installed and setup on bluetooth. The bluetooth connects to my phone and allows me to control pause/play and change songs forward or back. I cannot control the volume with this type of set up. I was hoping to connect directly through the aux and hopefully be a able to control the master volume. Worst case scenario, the current set up allows me to easily hit pause if a rider falls down and we want to back off the radio or skip a track in a playlist.

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I owned a 2015 FS33 until last year that we bought brand new and I only had a valve stick on me 1x (400+hrs). My screen went out the very first year I had it, it was covered under warranty and I didn't have any other issues. I LOVED this boat.

Nevr-Dull always worked well for me. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding-Polish-5-oz/15125758

So stoked on it!

Hi, Has anyone installed mechanical stereo volume controls? Looking for dedicated buttons or rotating knob as I find the touch screen only volume controls less than ideal. Boat: 2021 Centurion VI22 Stereo: Centurion CHAMP Audio Package w/1 pair BLACK Pro Rev10 Wet Sounds Tower Spkrs, Integrated ICE Stereo, AM/FM USB On-Screen Controls, 8" BLACK Interior Spkrs and 12" Sub Thanks!

Yes - devise is the BT-RS. The headunit is the supreme factory all in one unit. It controls everything. There is not a "stand alone" radio headunit on the boat. The Iphone connects to the supreme headunit and basically all music is played from the phone. On the phone itself, i can control song selection, play/pause, and skip. I can NOT control volume on the phone. The BT-RS is connected to the phone and basically allows me to do the same. Play/Pause and skip track - but no volume control. The touch screen headunit allows me to do everything. Zone control, volume control, and pause play skip tracks. I can NOT connect the BT RS straight to the headunit via bluetooth and i cannot find an aux port to physically connect to the headunit. The latter is what i was hoping for in order to control the master volume. I actually called supreme to ask and was told that these new all in one units did not have an aux option. So for now going to leave it how we have it unless there is a creative way to override it and control volume from the BT RS. Im just not much of a touch screen person, especially when under way. Its not an issue, just personal preference.

This is the dimensions of my Avy sac for the port side for my 03 Avy. Main 22H X 24W X 52L Arm 10H X 24W X 62L You will want to place your fill, empty, vent holes according to your pump set up. Main… LXWXH = 27456 = 118.857 gallons = 992.46 pounds Arm.. LXWXH = 14880 = 64.416 gallons = 537.87 pounds Total cubic inches = 42336 = 183.272 gallons = 1530 pounds *Water 8.35 pounds per gallon

Depends how far you want to go up under the seat, my custom starboard sac would work. You can add more to the finger if you want to go farther up under the seat.

Also it’s a 2006 23’ typhoon but the late year model with the deeper-v hull w/o the cut outs and the c 4 wrap around seating…

Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/

does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.

the priming thing happened with mine when i was doing my first impeller change after buying the boat. the PO didn't use it much in the 5 years he owned it so must have never changed it, and the old one wore a ring where it rides against the pump housing. i see you already installed the plate that goes between the two halves of the housing to fix the issue when you install a new impeller. call Steve Buttrick at C&S Marine Pumps. i got my impeller from him, and when i went to install it he had included a note in the box that stated this exact issue being common for the Merc motors. super good guy to work with a he was a fraction of the cost of others that i was shopping around. i bet he can talk through what it would take to get yours fixed. C & S Marine Pumps Inc 149 s Highway 97 Cantonment , Florida 32533 Cell (850) 380-1731

I took it by the dealer and they immediately said the hull failed. The boats headed back to the factory.

My local dealer didn’t have much to say besides “it’s safe to use” so I called Centurion. They acknowledged there was an issue (obviously) and said they would contact the dealer. I totally get problems can happen during manufacturing so I’m not mad about the defect. Just want it fixed…. Will update this thread as this progresses.

It is surfable, but my understanding is that the cut out in the transom effect the wave some. You’ll want to throw some more weight under the port side seat. Fly high makes, what I think they’re calling, a 650 sac that will fit will. I’m not sure to what extent the cut out impacts the wave and what can be done to mitigate. Hopefully someone with that boat will chime in.

You can probably get this made by SendCutSend. They are a site that you send a cad to and they will machine whatever you like.

they should be the same as long as you're getting C4 versus the walkthrough template. as far as alternatives, i like aquamarinedeck.com, they're cheaper and still great quality, i'm just not sure they have a template to pick off the site. worth emailing them to get a price though.

That is not normal. Mine travels from 0 - 100 moving at every 5% increment. I actually set it to 45 at the most aggressive, and usually am about 55-60 for my normal surf style setting. My wife prefers skim so she likes it mellow like 90-100.

Seems like a bad engine speed sensor based on the description. Strange that it only manifested once ballast was full and zero off was engaged though.

Thanks jtryon, and bigcatpt, I will Upload some pictures in a day or two. Maybe you guys can tell me what is worth keeping. Thanks

Those early boats had a hodgepodge of ballast system from the factory. And who knows what any of the other owners had done to it. In reality you are probably going to be scrapping a bunch of it to get you a good functioning system anyway. It would be really helpful to see what you are working with for starters. Can you take some pictures and post them here? Take pictures of your switch panel, all pumps, thru hull intakes, tanks or fat sacs, valves, etc. They we can tell you what is useful and and what is not. Then you can build the ballast system from there. The good news is the Avy throws an amazing surf wave. To give you some additional information about how the ballast system usually worked in those years. There was a single water intake either in the bottom of the boat (near the T-handle plug) or in the rear of the boat under the swim step. The water would come in to a single Jabsco pump that is set up as a non reversible pump (they can be set up as reversible). The Jabsco pump would pump water through a manifold system with 3 sprinkler valves. There were 3 switches on the dash (Port, Stbd, Center) that would activate the Jabsco pump and the corresponding sprinkler valve that would direct the water to the correct hard plastic tank. Each tank had about 250# weight capacity. Each of those hard tanks has a Mayfair aerator style pump screwed into the rear or it that is used to empty the tank. A few thoughts about this.... 1. The hard tanks are way too small to do any good in the port and stbd lockers. They will need to come out unless you are just going to tube and wakeboard. Not enough weight for surfing. 2. The center hard tank can stay and be reused. 3. The sprinkler valve manifold is the weak link in the system. It slows down everything will need to be ripped out if you want to upgrade your system to bigger fat sacs. 4. Unfortunately you will pretty much want to start from scratch to get a good system with more intakes in the hull, adding a couple Jabsco or Johnson ultra reversible pumps, 1100# sacs in the rear lockers, 480-580# sacs under the side seats, and a couple hundred pounds of lead bags for the back corner of the lockers. Lots of people can help you get a good system designed and installed if you are handy. Help us understand what your starting components are and we can go from there.

since you're halfway there, i'd just leave the tanks out and add ballast bags that fill the rear lockers. add two thru-hulls and pumps on their own switches to fill those new bags, and use the existing pump just for the center tank. that will make everything less complicated and give you better fill times. yours probably has what's referred to as a sprinkler valve, if you want to search here for more info on it. most guys just rip it out and upgrade it though.

If you have no interest in fixing it and keeping it, I agree with you that I wouldn't want to deal with trying to fix it and flip it. If you can take it and the $47k, there is some value in the boat for sure. There are plenty of people that aren't afraid of a project and would take it off your hands for $5k-$10k or so. As @jtryon suggested, the motor alone has pretty good value. I also agree with @Bigcatpt that it's a good idea to take this question to the Facebook group. You might even find a buyer there... Do you know if the title is "salvaged"? I know it works differently with cars than it does boats. Cars are immediately deemed "salvaged" when the insurance totals it and pays you out for it regardless of the extent of the damage. It is not exactly that way with boats. For example, I bought my old Avalanche from a boat repair shop that had bought it from an insurance company after it was "totaled" and the previous buyer was paid out. The story I got was, the previous owner didn't have the trailer coupler properly connected to the ball, turned a corner leaving his neighborhood, trailer came off ball causing damage to the trailer, breaking the windshield and tower, and cracking the hull above the rubrail in the rear by the engine vents. The title was not salvaged on that boat. That said, I also agree with Bigcat that if the title is salvaged, obviously the value and potential buyer pool are reduced. But, if it is not salvaged for some strange reason, that could make it more appealing to someone who isn't afraid of the project... I did a quick search on 2007-2010 Enzo's on Boattrader and your boat in good condition with a trailer is worth low $50k-ish, so $47k and you take the boat isn't too bad of a deal.

This is an interesting situation for sure. I am not sure I fully understand your options..... You could take the $47K payout and walk? BTW $47 K for a 2009 is more than fair. Hard to beat this deal. Or is there an option to take the payout and still get the boat to fix and keep? If so, at what cost? If taking the boat means no payout then I would take my money and run. If there is an option for some payout and get the boat then it is worth exploring. The boat for sure still has value if YOU wanted to get it and fix it back up to be good for YOU. But only if you want to keep it personally. It would be a really hard to sell with a salvaged title knowing it had sunk without taking a big financial hit on the sale. You are certainly not going to get $47K out of it used, sunk, and salvaged when you sell it. Did you see what the "fix it list" was for $35k? That seems crazy high if they already got the motor running with a new computer. For sure the shop is being aggressive on the $75 per day fee. Do they have that in writing anywhere for it to be legal? I would ask this question on the Official Centurion/Supreme boat owners Facebook group. Lots more eyes and ears over there to give you good advice.

Just got back from demoing a beautiful ri230 red and black metal Flake. It drove beautiful. It felt solid and was shocked how quiet it was. Surf wave was impressive as expected. It looks to be quality built and looks the part. If I had to nit pick, seat storage cushions didn’t have shocks to hold the seats up and not all the cushions are hinged. Some wires and brackets were exposed. A little disappointing for $200+k. But I can look past all that since it does so many other things well and for the awesome ride quality and waves it puts out. We decided we need the extra space, so it will be a ri245 for us. Now just trying to workout a price before we order.

Hey Chris, that is my old boat. I haven't been on the site for a while but just jumped on to look around. I am happy to see it's in good hands and your family is enjoying it. We owned it for 12 years and loved it. If we kept it I would have done the exhaust as well.

Hey guys, first post, but I've already gotten a ton of info off this forum. Pretty much the reason I searched specifically for a Avalanche. Got this 2006 a couple months ago from a dealer in Canada. Was a bit of a risk, had to purchase before ever seeing it in person because the border is closed. Overall have found a few small surprises, but nothing to big. Its a well taken care of boat. I searched for about 4-5 months and think it was the best choice with what is on the market. Its the same boat as page 13 of this thread. An Infinity surf system is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. A FAE system is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed to eliminate the sideswipe. Will be placing a Gatorstep order soon. Will be ordering a new prop, it currently has the 817 Acme on it. Got the following maintenance completed and took it for its first drive Saturday to learn the boat. Its our first inboard, so a bit of a learning curve coming from I/O. Changed V Drive fluid Changed Transmission fluid, couldn't get it all out, so just added back in what I took out. Replaced both fuel filters Put in new impeller Greased V Drive shaft Greased rudder All new blue plugs I was unable to change the oil. The tube I have for the extractor pump is super small but wont get all the way down the dip stick, it hangs up on something, even the dipstick itself doesn't go in easily. The top of the dipstick has some sort of fitting on it. Please see picture. What do I need to accomplish this? Heres a few pics

I've been a Nautique owner for the past 15 years and I decided to give Centurion a try. As such, I just bought a used 2017 RI257. I love the boat so far, as does the wife, however, it would be great to add the top side hatch to the pedestal behind the driver seat that the 2020+ RI's have. Has anyone done this to their pre-20 RI? Or at least, does anyone know if the pedestal is the same between a pre-20 and 20+ RI257? P.S. I live in the Reno/Tahoe area and would love to connect with some other Centurion owners... -Bill

If you're looking to keep it reasonable, you could build a new distribution centre off of your existing pump using always closed valves, some simple wiring, and extra switches on the bank below your throttle. I replaced my sprinkler valves with 12 Volte Brass Always ($25 each on Amazon I think) Closed Valves. While the wiring was there already for each of the ballast zones/pump/valves, 12 volt wiring is pretty easy to run between your switches and the valves. For venting, I used some simple check valves on the vent lines which helped when I was pumping out the bags - helped to create a bit of an air lock in the bags. Here's the link for my project: https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/ballast-projects/ballast-solenoid-upgrade-distribution-r161/ For pumping out the water, you'd do two more similar 12 volt pumps like the one shown above. I think for both you'd use those double throw switches. Drilling vent lines and pump out holes above the water line is pretty easy - just use masking tape to measure it all out and then drill your hole with a holesaw in reverse and take your time. Fittings are easy to find. If I was upgrading it all again without adding extra pumps, I'd look at up grading my main pump for something with higher volume and then increase the tubing size to the valves, 1" valves, and 1" tubes to each of the bags to help improve filing time. You could like go larger than that depending on your through hull size..

If you want push button start that's one thing but to buy it just to be able to keep the stereo on when turning off the boat is the wrong reason and spending money where you don't need to. When I purchased my boat same thing happened every time I'd turn the ignition off the stereo would shut down. All I did was find the power wire that feed the stereo rocker switch and run it to the power block that is supplied by the batt. That way the rocker switch is powered whether the ignition is turned on or off and you can control the stereo and components with the rocker and not be dependent on ignition power.

Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.

Since you are using -4 cat's I'm assuming your talking regular and not goofy? I ask because there is a lot of talk about which way cats is supposed to work ( from the other thread the RI's use + for goofy side and - for regular side) this could be a killer thread but we should all help each other 1st by specifying what side we are talking about just to stop any confusion. If we all get on the same page with listing our setups I think we can create a good database. Boat RI 217 with 409 - 1235 prop. Lake : Deep water ( 150+) For my goofy riders im using: Center tab 50 70/0 for tabs All PNP full (timers reset for longer fill times to make sure they are full) 85-90/100 for ram fill Cat's @ 0 ( but want to test more with the + setting ) Speed 11.2-11.6 Crew- 3-4 I love the above goofy wave its steep but super smooth and long. With that said, I actually want to mess with a little less rear weight as I think I am over using the center tab to flatten the boat out. I want to test 65/75 on the ram fill with 20-30 center tab, my guess is this might equal a longer wave but slightly less steep. I don't have many regular riders but will start to keep notes.

Usually to get a longer wave....add bow ballast, or in lieu of that, you can add some center trim tab. Weight in bow is likely better tho, that is how I get my wave longer in my SV244. You can also speed up some to make it longer, but I like 11-11.2mph, so I add bow ballast and/or trim. It will knock down the size of wave a little...but if you have 100% full in rear, you should have plenty of counter to have a high enough wave either way.

what i found out this weekend is with the listed (100% rear bag 100% port side QF at 10.4) is good for skim boards, but not so good for boards like the Liquid force Fish style board. For some reason i can ride all day long with the skim style without the rope, but on the Fish i cant even let go. I think the speed is to slow for the longer board. Dont ask me why, cause i dont know but i just ordered a new surf style board should be here in the next week or so and ill update to see if that one rides better and slower or faster speeds.

Welcome to the forum. Is the steering wheel similarly difficult to turn when it's on the trailer? You probably need to grease your rudder or replace your steering cable, or both. You don't have power steering, it's just a cable that runs from the helm to the rudder. Someone on here has had at least temporary luck in greasing the cable by forcing grease down in the sheathing, but it's technically not a servicable part. As a rule of thumb, always leave your steering wheel turned all the way to the left when the boat is parked. That keeps the end of the cable inside the sheathing and protected from moisture in the bilge.

i know this is bringing up an old thread but have just done this on mine. had to remake the cup holder section to reposition the cup holders and to make room for the speaker. there is also a hole for the speakers cushion frame you just have to cut the vinyl, but the speaker is out there to get damaged by careless kids. in the cup holder holder area i feel is less likely to get damaged by a stray elbow or foot.