Jake707

So the brake actuator master cylinder on my 2000 centurion went out and is all rusted inside. Took it all apart only to find out Atwood no longer makes the master cylinder I need (atwood 85841) and there’s not replacement?! read somewhere that the only option is to replace the actuator assembly, but on my trailer it’s all welded in, not bolted in like the videos I’ve found. is my only option really to cut the welds, brake this actuator off and then install a generic actuator? Nobody has had issues with their older trailers? I couldn’t find anything online of similar issues.

I did. They do not have it.

I spent a few hours taking the existing unit apart. It was rusted stiff. I broker out the wire wheel and wire brush and scrubbed most of the rust out and was able to break the piston free to finish disassembling it. Parts look pretty good once all the rust is knocked off. I think I’m going to try and re run it. I’ll have to make a gasket. Worth a try since every other options seems to be $600+ in conversions.

The Atwood unit I pulled out is actually angled along the top where all of these are flat. Not sure if I could build a type of wedge to angle them or not or if it matters. here’s a link for a pic since I can’t post them. This company doesn’t have it although it says available. https://bendtrailers.com/lippert-atwood-master-cylinder-85841/

Haven’t hear anything about this board. Is it new? shameless plug alert my 5’2” inland surfer swallow tail is great for big riders and rookies who want to be able to still “surf” and not just stands there on a door slab haha

Well I couldn’t mount it down firing. There wasn’t enough lip on the sub side of the box. I have it back in as it was for now so I could make sure it’s tuned and ready to go. Still debating on rotating it 90 degrees so it fires into the built in cooler area.

Ok long story short I’ve been chasing a buzzing noise on my sub and pulled out the ported box built under the helm to see if it was the sub. It wasn’t. Had the amp bench tested and the RF t1500 went out and is sending out buzzing noises. So I’ll have to replace it. my question is I noticed the box is mounted under the helm so the sub and vent point up. There was a good amount of dust on top of the sub. No water or anything. Does it matter which direction the sub faces? Should I put it back pointing up or rotate it to point towards the middle of the boat/walkway?

Thanks Wylie. I thought about downforce as well and thought it might even enhance the bass since it would send it throughout the boat floor but I don’t think I have enough head space on the far end where it comes up to the back of the bow seat. I could maybe get an inch or so but that wouldn’t be enough for excursion if I put the sub on that end. But if I put the sub downward on the steering wheel end it would have enough space since that end is propped on top of that built in footrest. So it actually sits at an angle with a gap between the box and floor most of the way. That would put the vent on the bow side and an inch clearance should be plenty right? There was zero signs of water in that area. More just dust and dirt, I will say these boat designers thought well on channeling water to designated areas. Even the cup holders have small hoses that feed into the main channel back to the bilge. here’s a link to a similar box shape/design as mine but mine is a 12 and the sub is more on the opposite end of the vent not in the middle like this one. I can’t post the picture of my actual box so I looked for a google image of something close. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-uGeDZrXf3xM/p_953E1X15V2/Memphis-Audio-15-PE1X15V2.html

With the size of my box that wouldn’t be an option. It would only fit in the area long ways so I could keep the sub facing up or rotate 90 degrees and have it facing either the walk way cooler or side of the boat its a 2.5 cubic foot rectangle shaped box.

Hi guys I was trying to remove the kick panel on the drivers foot well to see about measuring for a sub box I want to put in there. I removed to two screws holding it in and the small panel on the left of the foot well. I can move it around in there but couldn't figure out how to get it out. Has anyone removed this panel, does anyone have the measurements already of a box that will fit? Does the panel on the right need to come off too? It's the whole side. I want to out a ported box under there with a 12" sub. It's a 2000 centurion elite bow rider.

Do you ride level weighted with a suck gate or list the boat and switch sides of the ballast often? Do you have two reversible pumps or just the stock one plus a throw over type pump? If level, I’d personally dam near just leave the center full all the time as it doesn’t make or break anything really, or hook the center to tank to a cheap as you can pump, reroute the stock reversible to the front sac and a large reversible to the two sacs. That would be decent and most likely your cheapest. I only rode level with a suckgate on my Elite and only have one reversible Jabsoc King pump for the rear sacs and a tsunami for the v shape under the bow sac. I plan to add a second pump for that sac later but for now it’s fine. Once full you’re set and it only takes me 10-15 minutes to get set up so no big deal to me.

Ok, time to get a new cover for the old 2000 Elite V. Not going to go with the $1,000 pure custom Evolution type cover but not going to get the off the walmart shelf $120 universal fit either. Anyone know of any good sales going on or coming up? Looking for the best mid grade cover I can get.

got the cover in about a week or so ago. Took about a week to come in. It’s nice quality for sure. We cleaned the boat up again and put it on today. I’m def pleased. Glad I found the deal. Is 9.5 oz sunbrella material so it should hold up well but time will tell. Cant post pics but it’s a nice tight fit.

If you’re not a paying member you’ll have to use s third party host for pictures. Welcome to the forum

Yup, it was for my boat with the ProFlight tower so, Im assuming, like my old cover it will have cutouts and Velcro to go around the tower legs. Should have it next week.

That link was a Westland brand cover using Sunbrella 9.5oz fabric. I ended up getting it haha hopefully its good. I didn't get an over the platform add on as I have the Teak platform and I can re surface if needed but they seem to hold up really well. Ended up being $494 delivered and I ordered a sew in vent and pole support as well to put in the middle of the boat for another $50

Found this. Looks to be a pretty nice deal? 9.5oz sunbrella exact fit for $500 https://www.coveranything.com/2000-centurion-elite-sunbrella-boat-cover/

I agree, you don't need a new boat to have fun. If your funds allow you to cash out one and not break the bank more power to you and Id say do it. But I would never advise to finance 100K boats haha. 50-60K range ok that's your average car these days and you can recover fairly quickly I would think. I like my Elite and would be set but with the 95" beam and 21.5' length Im wanting bigger just to spread out a bit. Problem is most older centurions are just longer in the bow not the cabin, until you get into the Sv233/244 and FS, but those are only a few years old and up there in price. automated ballast and perfect pass are the only gadgets I would say you "need" for that long term boat feel which you can add to any

Its hard to scale how long the pocket is but in the pic it looks pretty good for that boat. 5 or 6 more feet for the pocket might be a tall order. If you add much more bow weight it might just knock the top off the wave and youll have a long ripple haha. Play around with it until you find the right balance. I personally run an 1100 on the port side locker since we rarely have goofy riders. It wont fill all the way without popping up the sun deck so I fill it as much as possible which is def more than the 750 I have on the other side. This gives it a slight list and still sinks it pretty good for the nauticurl. You can try that or if you switch sides somewhat regularly Id stay with dual 750s. I also have the fat suck under the seats bow bag and a fatsac brick I throw on the floor in the bow plus what ever people I need up there. Might be better to add more bow weight instead of sacs on the floor in the cabin, wouldn't take as much weight to sink the boat down the same amount, its basically leveraging the boat up front.

750 center cabin? You mean you had a 750 on the floor in the cabin? Get them 250 hard tanks out of the lockers and through 750s back there in each, then youll be way better off and youd only need to buy one more bag. Keep the 350 up front and have everyone sit on the surf side, this might list slightly but nothing major, and youll notice a huge improvement.

The older supremes don’t have snap out carpet. That’s glued down edge to edge I believe. It won’t be pretty but it’ll be finished enough fiber glass to recover with minimal patching depending on how bad the carpet comes out.

Huh? Maybe I’m the oddball here but “cranking”and “turning over” are the same thing to me and mean the motor is turning over with the starter like it’s trying to start.

so it will crank over or it wont? haha Sounds like the N safety switch to me too, pushing the button in bypasses that switch I believe. Will it run like that?

On my Elite the filler is on the driver side in front of the windshield above the rub rail, below the rub rail in roughly the same area is a black circle cap that is the gas vent. Pretty much every time I fill up the boat with gas as Im taking off I get gas that splashes out of the that vent. I fill till the pump clicks just once but no matter what it comes out while pulling away. Do you have the same vent cap below the rub rail? If so take a look at it and make sure its not plugged up maybe?